RankAndFileTrooper

So much about reading minds I've just started to make a homepage this week. While it's still under construction, I hope it can go on-line in the coming week(s). Until that time please browse this thread, you will find all relevant information to be able to order.

Restock of the Stardust B has arrived!!! To take into consideration that the majority of the customers are from the USA, all payments can be done in US$ from now on. Price is 59 US$ This is a price drop compared to the 1st Run, caused by the weak US$! Shipping is 6 US$ worldwide. For other terms and conditions see previous posts. I added a full wiring diagram of the Stardust B which includes all lights, OLED display, trigger etc.

Thanks a lot for the huge interest the Legion showed for my Stardust v2 board. There are a lot of boards on the field now, waiting to be installed into blasters worldwide, please do other users a favor and make photos/videos of your builds and share them. Let's show the guys trooping out there how much more fun a blaster is with proper electronics. The 1st Run is sold out and for the Xmas period I will stop sales. But do not worry, I already made provisions to start a 2nd Run run in January. If you are interested to participate in the 2nd Run, you can leave me a PN and I will include you on the pre-order list. Furthermore, many troopers asked me if I could make a complete shopping list to help them get all the items before their Stardust board arrives. Now it is the right time to write to Santa to get these items in time for the 2nd Run. SHOPPING LIST First In include a pictural overview of the most widely used components used: Battery: You do not need to include a battery with 3000+ mAh, blasters do not consume so much power. Important is to have a Li-Ion/LiPo battery (nominal voltage 3.7V), ideally with a caacity of around 500-1000mAh (of course the more the better, but take care about limited space in your blaster). The Stardust v2 board has an on-board charger chip, so you can skip buying an expensive external charger (saves you 20-30$). I've already built blasters with battery type 10440, but I would recomment a 18350 or 18500 (first 2 digits are the diameter in mm, so 10mm and 18mm respectively, the last 3 digits the lenght in mm, so 44, 35 and 50mm respectively). Speaker: You need a max 3W speaker, recommended is a 2W (easier to come by), with 8Ohm or 4 Ohm resistance. The size should be up to 28mm (but free to take bigger if you have space). If you target to make a blaster which feels perfectly like holding a real blaster, take a Veco, it will make your blaster vibrate !!! VECO bass speaker Ligths generally: all light I use are WS2812B type neopixels. You can easily source them from ebay or other online sources. They originate from Adafruit, so if you can, please suport them by buying directly from them. Light for the barrel: For the barrel I recommend using neopixel strips of the type 60LED/m, or 144LED/m (densest currently on the open market) for a more extreme build): Neopixel stripe Light for the nozzle: You can chain up a single neopixel element called a Flora to the end of the barrel stripe, believe me, unless you want to cause permanent damage to the eye of event visitors, the brightness of a Flora is more than enough to impress everyone. Of course you are free to include whatever LED you want to the front. To make the light seem more focussed, you can take a 20mm Carclo lense and glue it to the Flora (they are meant for high-power LEDs like the tri Cree for which you can take the same lense) Adafruit neopixel Floras Status LEDs: They are for status dislay, you can use them to display ammo or currently selected mode, like I show in some of my videos. They can replace or complement an OLED status display. They are the same neopixels are the stripes and the Floras, but slightly more dense than even the 144LED/m and on a rigid PCB, which lends itself better to build it in facing outwards. Adafruit neopixel sticks Trigger switch: Take one with a long lever. You might have to look for it on international sites, but I can link in one from a German vendor to show how it looks like: momentary switch with long lever OLED display: An OLED status display makes an awesome mod to your blaster, it can be used for multiple purposes from ammo count display to intro screen etc. Make sure you pick one with 128x32 dots using I2C interface (4 pins, GND, VCC, SCL, SDA). Color white or blue. 128x32 I2C OLED dislay

Here are pictures from my DoopyDoo E11 blaster, I uploaded the new code using the Star Wars font characters, this is how it looks like on a 128x32 OLED display:

OK, noted. I assumed - probably wrongly - that the basics of how to drive an OLED display were discussed in this thread already. I personally think it adds a new flavor to any blaster builds and a 128x32 OLED dislay can be driven confortably with a Nano or Micro. I will compile an information package and post them together with some pics. For those who already used OLED displays with Arduino, the piece of code and the link to the font file say it all.

If someone wants to use an OLED display in his/her blaster, I made a font using the iconic Star Wars characters which can be used together with the Adafruit GFX library: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS/blob/master/libraries/Adafruit-GFX-Library-master/Fonts/Aurebesh_6pt.h Some pics showing an OLED display both with ordinary font and so called Aurebesh: The last pic has a small Stormtrooper head which I made "by hand" as a bitmap replacing the characters [ and ]. The pictures use a 128x64 OLED configured as 128x32, which means every 2nd row is ommitted. Using a 128x32 will look much better as characters will not be streched. Adafruit GFX lib can be found here: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-GFX-Library Adafruit SSD1306 lib can be found here: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_SSD1306 Using the OLED display in the code is quite easy with these libs, some examle lines showing the essential commands: // to include libs and font: #include <Adafruit_GFX.h> #include <Adafruit_SSD1306.h> #include <Fonts/Aurebesh_6pt.h> // initialize the OLED: /*************************************************************************************************** * SSD_1306 based 128x64 I2C OLED monochrome display * Adafruit_SSD1306.h reconfigured to use only 128x32 pixels, otherwise sketch runs out of RAM * */ #define OLED_RESET 4 Adafruit_SSD1306 display(OLED_RESET); // to set the font as active font later in the code: display.setFont(&Aurebesh6pt7b); // to switch back to default characters display.setFont(); // to dislay something with the currently activ font: display.println("Trooper: TK-83607"); OLEDs I used so far: http://www.ebay.de/itm/IIC-I2C-0-91-128x32-Blue-OLED-LCD-Display-Module-3-3v-5v-FOR-AVR-Arduino-/201844374681?hash=item2efedcbc99 Have fun!

This one is something I've been planning on implementing for a long time now! I always liked the iconinc Star Wars characters used in the movies and wanted to tweak the code of FX-BlasterOS to be able to switch the OLED dislay between outputting the default font and the Star Wars font. Now it works! The Stormtrooper head is my own bitmap I implemented to replace the characters [ and ] . The OLED display on the pics is a 128x64 type, I configured it as 128x32, therefore the somehow pixely feel. If used with a 128x32 the characters will be more compact and better looking, I will make some new images using the smaller display. Aurebesh (Star Wars characters) intro display with "hand-crafted" Stormtrooper bitmap: Original intro display: Blast mode status display, Aurebesh-style: Same with ordinary characters: The font file suitable to be used with the Adafruit library can be found here: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS/blob/master/libraries/Adafruit-GFX-Library-master/Fonts/Aurebesh_6pt.h

Although not related to the blaster topic, I wanted to share this! I'm very proud to be a member of the 501st Legion, just recently!!! TK-83607 reports to duty!

I made this schematic drawing of an E11 blaster to show what type of components I used for the blasters I've built. I think a picture tells more than a thousand words, therefore instead of a list I decided to go with this: If you have any enquiry about any of these parts, I can gladly link in where I got them. Mostly on ebay, and directly from Adafruits, they have amazing neopixel stuff.

I recall one of your earlier post where you dismissed this MP3 player as one with an inferior quality. I'm glad now you endorsed it. I found that it was by far the easiest to program via Arduino, without the need to prepare files or use an external programmer. Damn loud too! And this is the one I referred to, having the SPI-flash instead of the SD-card: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BY8301-16P-SSOP2-MP3-Aduio-Serial-Voice-SPI-FLASH-Module-3W-Amplifier-Micro-USB-/271684522808?hash=item3f41a8d338:g:KXMAAOSw7ThUdS08 (this is no advertisement, I've copied out from one of the DFPlayer Gits I found) It is even smaller than the SD-card version.

I'm glad you discovered the DFPlayer!!! It just happens to be exactly the same chipset I use in all of my DIYino boards. The module is superb, definitely the loudest I've tested so far, especially coupled with a premium bass 2W speaker from VECO. The Prime used the same YX5200-24SS chipset assembled on the MP3-tf-16p, now for the Stardust I use a more advanced chipset YX-6300-24SS because it can read the wav/mp3 files both from an SD card and an SPI-flash. For blasters due to the short duration of the sound file the SPI-flash is perfect, that is why I decided to put a 16MByte flash on the Stardust v2 instead of the cumbersome SD-card holder. On my GitHub you can also find the library for the DFPlayer: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/tree/master/libraries BTW, it is one of those rare chipset which can do gapless playback, essential for lightsaber probs. But later on I plan to add the possibility of a humming sound to my blaster software, and there this feature will come in handy

The first Stardust boards are on their way to their happy new owners, so it's time to prepare them for their first contact with their new blaster core. Therefore I included in the User Manual a new Chapter called "Getting Started" , where I summarized all info needed to guarantee a smooth start in a new world of programmable boards. Stardust User Manual Any feedback is highly welcome and appreciated!

Good news, the first Run of the Stardust B arrived and currently undergoing rigorous tests and quality checks. Therefore Sales starts NOW As already mentioned in the thread, the Stardust B board costs 54 EUR + 6 EUR shipping. If you order 3+ boards, price is reduced to 49 EUR/board + one time shipping. Payment is via PayPal to [email protected] If paying for services, add +3.9% for fees. Please indicate following items in the comment field along with your payment: - your name - shipping address - Forum nickname, and also Forum name (i.e. Whitearmor) - "Stardust B" if you want to build a blaster, to be able to tell these orders apart from lightsaber prop orders I will handle orders in the order they come in. Boards are shipped out always on Saturdays, I can guarantee shipping in same week if payment arrived by Thursday. By buying a board you confirm to have read the User Manual and understood the specification (see Stardust User Manual ), Warranty (yes, I do offer this, mostly because I know that they are going to work ): 90-day replace or money back guarantee on the Stardust v2 board if they stop working during normal use (NO PHYSICAL DAMAGE) I will not accept returns which are soldered to things, boards must be de-soldered and clean before return.

Sure I can do. Actually you only need to add peripherials you intend to desing in into your blaster. The Stardust board is fully integrated, i.e. all necessary stuff is included you need to: - drive LEDs - drive neopixel strings - drive other peripherials which need a driving stage with transistors (like a buzz motor for example) - drive OLED via I2C So for a standard setup you will need basically: - a Li-Ion/LiPo battery, most commonly used are those of the type 18650 - an 8Ohm/2W speaker (can be up to 3W and also 4Ohm, but you can easier source a 8Ohm/2W and it's pretty much the perfect one) - neopixels (single or stripes) or LEDs (standard or High-Power) for the lights - tactile switches for the trigger and optionally a 2nd switch - optionally an OLED display (I will mainly work on the engine for that in the near future) - any other peripherials you might want to add (buzz motor, etc) There are design hints in the User Manual.

Hi guys, I've got a lot of PM's from you who want to sign up on the pre-order list, just to let you know, your message has not gone unnoticed, you will all get a board, I have a large batch, anticipating the huge interest. It's just that I'm currently on vacation and back only early September, but once I touch down on home grounds again I will get in touch will all of those who has or will sign up on the pre-order list by then. Cheers! Andras

This is an epidemic, photobucket managed to swipe out years of archive on many fun forums over the globe by changing their policy about 3rd party hosting. It's not only this thread. I guess it would take quite a time to reconstruct everything here. I'm really mad at them too!

Sale will start anyway only in September. Although I will get the first bigger batch till end of the month, I can start testing them only in early September due to a longer vacation. I will keep you in the loop. For all of those who want to be in on the first run, drop me a pm and I can take you up on the pre-order list. Pre-order is not binding, but I want to gauge the demand, because the blaster option is slightly different from the saber option in the assembly.

I finished this nice gift to my nephew, including some medium weathering to make it look like a blaster which has been put to heavy use. I made a video features a double pack of iconic Star Wars weaponry: - lightsaber with a Tri-Cree RGB LED in-hilt LED - and this blaster which uses purely neopixels for illumination To the FX-BlasterOS system code I made certain changes, mainly to make it easier for children to interact with the blaster. I also improved the status bar code a lot, and with the rigid, ultra-dense neopixel stick I used for the status/power bar/PLI I think it has now a whole lot of more possibilities than the LED bar used in the past. I really enjoyed working with a full plastic toy blaster as a base due to them being extremely easy to work with, unlike metal or resin. This one had the additional bonus feature that it came with a momentary switch integrated into the trigger, so all I had to do was to wire it to the Stardust board.

For my previous built E11 DoopyDoo and also for the current Death Trooper blaster I used mostly these tiny little fellows named neopixels. While they start to get recognized as the new generation of LEDs, due to their programmable nature, it is less well known that apart from stripes (white PCB on the bottom) with different LED densities you can buy from Adafruit neopixels sticks (in the middle on black PCB, neopixel stick) which I used now in place of the traditional PLI/bar grah. Big advantage of the neopixel bar is - apart from the obvious color mix capability - that it needs only 3 wires instead of a huge amount necessary for a traditional bar graph. Due to the fact that neopixels stripes are awesome, but hard to solder if singulated, I bought for the 2 nozzle lights so called Floras, single neopixels on a round PCB which is smaller than a STAR PCB but can be attached to the same 20mm Carclo lenses used for high-power LEDs. My E11 has those brutally bright HP-LEDs, however since this blaster will be for a kid, I concluded it would be a bad idea to let them blind each other so I went for neopixels in the nozzle. Neglecting the fact that it is much more easier to a.) install b.) program such a neopixel it is crazily bright while far less dangerous to the eyes as HP-LEDs. I will actually stop using HP-LEDs, these guys are sooooo much better and fun to program.

This is truly crazy, going to be one of the cleanest design heavy blaster! It certainly looks awesome, I'm looking forward to see the finished model. Do you intend to put electronics inside to light up the barrel on firing. THat effect would look excellent in the long barrel. I could well imaging doing it with neopixels.

My first Stardust blaster is being prepared for my first commission: I make it for my nephew as a birthday present. It is made from an altered Nerf Death Trooper blaster. More photos and later on a video are on the way. Note that the Stardust and a 10440 3.7V Li-Ion battery snugly fit into the place which held the 3xAAA batteries in the original toy setup.

Peripherals strongly depend on your preferences and blaster type, and wav files you can obtain from other members. Professional open source software is available from me or you can program your own (or any combination). Therefore this price is for the board. I can maintain this low price only if I manage to order larger quantities (100+) at a time.

Can someone confirm that it works? It does not for me...

It seems I need to relocate my pics from photobucket because the links do not work. -----------