RankAndFileTrooper

The link is in the first post, somewhat hidden behind the title with the big letters I reveal it now without overlazing it with another text: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS Let me know if you need any assistance or advice!

You can use even the smallest microSD, which is 2GB, the sound files take less than 20MB in fact. As a supply you need to use a 3.7V Li-Ion, as blasters are not on all the time and the illumination is on only during shots, in terms of capacity I would say go for one which has at least 1000mAh and is small enough to fit into your blaster. I use type 18500 usually. I do not use a holder, and solder the battery directly to the board/stripes or use a 2-wire connector if I want to make it disconnectable.

Great progress on your build! Thanks for sharing the pic with the community. As to your question, there are 3 components involved which are extremely dynamic memory hungry: the OLED displays and the pixel stripes. The Atmega328p controller, which is an easy to source and very popular workhorse all the Arduino projects, has enough memory to serve two of them, but not all three. Therefore only one of the display types can be included in one build. You can of course build a standalone module with an Arduino Nano only to drive the other OLED.

I updated the MK-X User Manual, describing the new features, you can have a look here if interested: https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury

Good luck with your build and do share pics and videos of your progress for the other to enjoy! If you have any question, drop me a PN, glad to help.

The FX-BlasterOS story goes on. I've been working on a full feature firmware including improved scope and status bar OLED display animation, idle mode status bar LED animation and for those facing droid problems, the new electrocute droid killer FX:

Look here: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS/tree/master/Sounds/FXBlasterOS_SF1_E11 You might need to reshuffle the order of the files but this link contains a full blaster sound set. Check from time to time for updates, as later on I might release new ones.

I've got feedback from many troopers expressing their gratitude for providing this piece of system code open source and free of charge, thanks guys for your kind words! If you have pictures and videos, do not hold them back, let's see those blasters blazing! There is also one recurring issue which can cause the sounds to be jumbled. Therefore for all future users: when you copy the sound files to your SD-card, after properly formatting your SD-card, drag and drop the whole Sounds folder (https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS/tree/master/Sounds) instead of the individual sub-folders one by one.

Thanks skyone for the heads up! We in the lightsaber building community struggled a lot with fake DFPlayers in the past until we found out that the market is swamped with fakes.

Added a link to skyone`s excellent FX Blaster Easy Assembly Kit v1.1, which is an option for a cheap but reliable build (Tier2). The used parts are compatible with FX-BlasterOS. Here is the link again for your reference: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/?do=findComment&comment=646230

Included a full wiring diagram for a Tier2 homebrew solution in the opening post. Have fun making your prop to a true sci-fi blaster which does not only look, but feel and sounds like one!

Hi fellow 501st Legion members, After nearly 3 years of development and refinement of the hardware and the code, I'm happy to announce that the currently most advanced blaster firmware FX-BlasterOS (previously known as Proto Blaster Platform) goes open-source, freely downloadable for anyone. To get an impression of the features you can implement now for free, look at the Intro Video on YouTube. For Easter Eggs, make sure you watch it till the end : FX-BlasterOS Intro Video With the software going open-source, you have multiple choices too to build your blaster electronics: Tier1: if you want a high-quality, proven solution which optimally supports all features of FX-BlasterOS, follow the below link: You advantage: - proven, tested - small enough to fit into any blaster - you can charge your Li-Ion battery over USB - comes with extensive power saving options for a sleep mode which can sustain your prop for several months on the shelf - comes already pre-installed with full version of FX-BlasterOS Tier2: you can stick together your own electronics from cheap parts, look how easy it is using Arduino boards and breakouts (see also the Shoping list below for details): To ease programming for those who are not (yet) familier with Arduino, there are detailed working instructions how to do it on the Wiki Page of the Git. In case of anz trouble of technical support request, use the Issue tab of the Git. There is also the possibility to source a carrier board for the cheap components, hugely simplifying the task of soldering and making the electronics more reliable. You can use skyone's excellent rider board which can be used with components compatible with FX-BlasterOS. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/?do=findComment&comment=646230 Shopping List Here is also a shopping list for you of components you will need: Arduino Board: Arduino Nano (actually any Atmega328P based board, wiring examples will be shown for the Nano): ebay search term: Arduino Nano v3 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nano-V3-0-ATmega-328-Board-CH340-USB-Chip-Arduino-Kompatibel/252742123829?hash=item3ad89ac135:g:xCEAAOSwPGtb33e0:rk:1:pf:0 DFPlayer Mini: ebay search term: "DFPlayer mini". Please ask the seller if the module comes with the original manufacturer's YX5200-24SS or YX6300-24SS chipset. You will also want to have a 470 Ohm thru hole resistor to connect the D8 of the Nano to the RX of the DFPlayer. https://www.ebay.de/itm/TF-Card-U-Disk-Mini-MP3-Player-Audio-Voice-Modul-Arduino-DFPlayer-Tafel-AIP/153290978607?hash=item23b0dab52f:g:uewAAOSwP6pbtdXJ:rk:1:pf:0 Speaker: recommended are OD: 20mm or 28mm Impedance: 8Ohm Power: 1W to 2W ebay search term: "20mm 2W 8Ohm speaker" Examples: https://www.ebay.de/itm/2pc-Audio-Speaker-20mm-8Ohm-8-2W-Stereo-Woofer-Trumpet-Horn-Loudspeaker-Power/162171125788?hash=item25c227001c:g:WRgAAOSwMtxXsvaV:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/28mm-8-Ohm-2W-Round-Speaker-For-DCC-Sound-Like-Loksound-Hornby-Bachmann-Zimo/263578226658?hash=item3d5e7c8fe2:g:BToAAOSwm-Zavo6p:rk:2:pf:0 Neopixel Sticks (for PLI/Status bar): ebay search term: "WS2812 stick" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-NeoPixel-Stick-8-x-WS2812-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-Driver-for-Arduino-r3/272010992457?hash=item3f551e5b49:g:7YMAAOSw7aBVBxRo:rk:7:pf:0 Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!) Single neopixel on round PCB (for nozzle light): ebay search term: "neopixel flora" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-Flora-RGB-Smart-NeoPixel-version-2-Pack-of-4-ADA1260/231237003534?epid=1028248696&hash=item35d6cca90e:g:LGoAAOSwNC5ZezSY:rk:6:pf:0 The original design is from Adafruit, please support the development by purchasing Adafruit products. You can also find similar offers on eBay from cheaper sources as well. Neopixel stripes (for barrel ligting): ebay search term: "WS2812 stripe" https://www.ebay.de/itm/5m-30-60-144-RGB-LED-Streifen-Stripe-mit-WS2812B-5050-SMD-LEDs-WS2812-Versand-DE/222192610445?hash=item33bbb62c8d:m:mR_Pz7NGzDUQhwH1s-6BFvg:rk:1:pf:0 Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!). As most blaster props are black it is recommended to buy a non-waterproof, 60LED/m type of pixel stripe. The striper are soldered together every 0.5m, but you can shorten the stripes easily to any lenght using scrissors, cutting the stripe at the copper landings. Momentary Switch: ebay search term: "momentary switch" or "tactile switch" You will need a single momentary (not latching!!!) swicth for the MK1, MK2 and MK3 builds, two for MK4 and MK5. For the trigger it is recommended to use a switch with a long arm like this one: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Mikroschalter-Mikrotaster-mit-langem-Hebel-250V-3A-125V-5A-S67/330793297018?epid=1154680769&hash=item4d04d1247a:g:8EgAAMXQlrxRcPJ9:rk:1:pf:0 For the mode select, aux. switch you can take the momentary switch of your choice, they come in an infinite variety, take the one which suits your needs. I myself like these small ones: https://www.ebay.de/itm/6mm-x-6mm-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-Micro-Momentary-Tact-Assortment-Kit-TE948/283285172378?hash=item41f51cb09a:g:SjoAAOSwo-VcAmNI:rk:9:pf:0 OLED Display with 128x32 resolution with I2C interface: ebay search term: "OLED 128*32" I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/0-91-128x32-IIC-I2C-Blue-OLED-Display-DIY-Module-DC3-3V-5V-128-32-Arduino/322536659354?hash=item4b18aed99a:g:ag8AAOSwK6RZLbR9:rk:5:pf:0 or for the scope a smaller one of type "OLED 64x48 I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/4pin-White-0-66-Screen-IIC-I2C-0-66in-OLED-Display-Module-64x48-for-AVR-STM32/272861748083?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Connectors for switches, speaker etc.: ebay search term: "micro JST 2-pin" For 2-wire connections like for switches, speaker, I recommend micro JST connectors with 1.25mm pitch: https://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Paar-2Pin-1-25-1-25mm-1-25mm-GH-Micro-JST-Stecker-Buchse-10cm-28AWG-Kabel-RC/172626910637?hash=item28315d9dad:g:XHsAAOSwux5YTaEB:rk:3:pf:0 2.1mm recharge port: https://www.ebay.de/itm/DC-Einbaubuchse-Stift-2-1-mm-geschlossene-Bauart-Lotanschlus-fur-Hohlstecker/141127499530?hash=item20dbdabf0a:g:4mIAAOSww~xZ1KXj:rk:9:pf:0 Micro- and/or Mini-USB breakout boards: ebay search term: "micro USB breakout" or "mini USB breakout" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Micro-USB-Platine-Adapter-fur-Breadboard-DIP-DIL-Breakout-Board-Arduino/183233499430?hash=item2aa9915126:g:kywAAOSwm8NbAIfU:rk:6:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-USB-Mini-B-Breakout-Board/272373312981?epid=1663565126&hash=item3f6ab6edd5:g:8BYAAOSwIIFbML51:rk:3:pf:0

OK, I try now to replace the embedded video (which obvoously does not work on whitearmor) with a link to YouTube which you can click on. Now it must work.

Thanks Harbringer! I have actually no idea how come it does not work, I see it, but many people have problems seeing embedded videos in my threads. Any idea what can be the issue? I simply copy the Youtube link and paste it into the thread.

<moved topic from HWT, as it better fits here> A friend of mine and expert prop builder built me a screen accurate DLT-19, we wanted to make it electronics ready so in the middle an easily accessible compartment was left empty to house the gadgets I wanted to control sound and light effects with. I knew I wanted to make this excellent piece of prop unique, therefore I added some extra features as I troop regularly with this heavy blaster (I will not say more, look at the video to find out more ) Component list of the electronics: - Proto Blaster MK5 ( https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury ) - Adafruit 60LED/m, black PCB Neopixel stripe wrapped into packing foam for better diffusion - Adafruit neopixel strick (8 LED) for the status bar/PLI - Adafruit Flora single neopixel on a round PCB for the nozzle light, with a 20mm Carclo optic - 2 illuminated AV switches for the 2 buttons, one is the trigger and the other one is for mode change, reload etc. - 3.7V Li-Ion battery, type 18500 (shorter than the widely used 18650, but still has a large capacity ~2000mAh) - a VECO high-end, 2W 8Ohm, bass speaker - a rumble motor for additional haptic feedback when shooting ( you wanna feel the power surge ) - 128x32 white OLED display for status info, ammo count, screen accurate Hengstler counter The neopixel stripe (2 glued back to back for even better illumination) runs the whole lenght of the barell, with a single pixel in the nozzle. And here is the video showing how it works: In case your browser does not show the embedded video, simply copy this URL and watch it on YouTube: https://youtu.be/z8scAd3hezk

I tried to fix the link and also copied the link text in case it does not want to work. You can simply copy the URL text and open it in your browser, if the embedded video will now show.

Problem might be on your side, I see the vid embedded. It is on YouTube

A friend of mine and expert prop builder built me a screen accurate DLT-19, we wanted to make it electronics ready so in the middle an easily accessible compartment was left empty to house the electronics I wanted to control sound and light effects. I knew I wanted to make this excellent piece of prop unique, therefore I added some extra features for HWT as I troop regularly with this heavy blaster (I will not say more, look at the video to find out more ) Component list of the electronics: - Proto Blaster MK5 (---------------) - Adafruit 60LED/m, black PCB Neopixel stripe wrapped into packing foam for better diffusion - Adafruit neopixel strick (8 LED) for the status bar/PLI - Adafruit Flora single neopixel on a round PCB for the nozzle light, with a 20mm Carclo optic - 2 illuminated AV switches for the 2 buttons, one is the trigger and the other one is for mode change, reload etc. - 3.7V Li-Ion battery, type 18500 (shorter than the widely used 18650, but still has a large capacity ~2000mAh) - a VECO high-end, 2W 8Ohm, bass speaker - a rumble motor for additional haptic feedback when shooting ( you wanna feel the power surge ) - 128x32 white OLED display for status info, ammo count, screen accurate Hengstler counter The neopixel stripe (2 glued back to back for even better illumination) runs the whole lenght of the barell, with a single pixel in the nozzle. And here is the video showing how it works: In case your browser does not show the embedded video, simply copy this URL and watch it on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8scAd3hezk -----------

Protowerkstatt Homepage The site is still under construction, but order info for the Stardust V2 you can already find here: https://www.protowerkstatt.com/diyino-prop-boards

As promised, for those who want to use the neopixel stick as bargraph/status bar, I uploaded the 3D model file for 2 to 8 segment bargraph to Thingiverse, free to use, enjoy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783648 Put a packing wrap and a clear plastic sheet on top of the stick for additional diffusion and it will look great!

It already exists. It can be quite easily be made using a Nano board. Usually I use neopixel stripes for the barrel, 60LED/m variants are perfect. The neopixel stick you can use for PLI or bargraph. For wiring you can use this one, for sure you will not need the MPU: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/wiki/Wiring#homebrew-pixel-blade For a full blaster code using only neopixels as lightning you can visit: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS The code is written for any Arduino board using the Atmega328P like Nano, Micro etc. The library to drive the pixels is also included: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS/tree/master/libraries/light_WS2812 I also made a long time ago an E11 using neopixels. You can do it with a Nano, just need a digital I/O to drive the pixels.

So much about reading minds I've just started to make a homepage this week. While it's still under construction, I hope it can go on-line in the coming week(s). Until that time please browse this thread, you will find all relevant information to be able to order.

Restock of the Stardust B has arrived!!! To take into consideration that the majority of the customers are from the USA, all payments can be done in US$ from now on. Price is 59 US$ This is a price drop compared to the 1st Run, caused by the weak US$! Shipping is 6 US$ worldwide. For other terms and conditions see previous posts. I added a full wiring diagram of the Stardust B which includes all lights, OLED display, trigger etc.

Thanks a lot for the huge interest the Legion showed for my Stardust v2 board. There are a lot of boards on the field now, waiting to be installed into blasters worldwide, please do other users a favor and make photos/videos of your builds and share them. Let's show the guys trooping out there how much more fun a blaster is with proper electronics. The 1st Run is sold out and for the Xmas period I will stop sales. But do not worry, I already made provisions to start a 2nd Run run in January. If you are interested to participate in the 2nd Run, you can leave me a PN and I will include you on the pre-order list. Furthermore, many troopers asked me if I could make a complete shopping list to help them get all the items before their Stardust board arrives. Now it is the right time to write to Santa to get these items in time for the 2nd Run. SHOPPING LIST First In include a pictural overview of the most widely used components used: Battery: You do not need to include a battery with 3000+ mAh, blasters do not consume so much power. Important is to have a Li-Ion/LiPo battery (nominal voltage 3.7V), ideally with a caacity of around 500-1000mAh (of course the more the better, but take care about limited space in your blaster). The Stardust v2 board has an on-board charger chip, so you can skip buying an expensive external charger (saves you 20-30$). I've already built blasters with battery type 10440, but I would recomment a 18350 or 18500 (first 2 digits are the diameter in mm, so 10mm and 18mm respectively, the last 3 digits the lenght in mm, so 44, 35 and 50mm respectively). Speaker: You need a max 3W speaker, recommended is a 2W (easier to come by), with 8Ohm or 4 Ohm resistance. The size should be up to 28mm (but free to take bigger if you have space). If you target to make a blaster which feels perfectly like holding a real blaster, take a Veco, it will make your blaster vibrate !!! VECO bass speaker Ligths generally: all light I use are WS2812B type neopixels. You can easily source them from ebay or other online sources. They originate from Adafruit, so if you can, please suport them by buying directly from them. Light for the barrel: For the barrel I recommend using neopixel strips of the type 60LED/m, or 144LED/m (densest currently on the open market) for a more extreme build): Neopixel stripe Light for the nozzle: You can chain up a single neopixel element called a Flora to the end of the barrel stripe, believe me, unless you want to cause permanent damage to the eye of event visitors, the brightness of a Flora is more than enough to impress everyone. Of course you are free to include whatever LED you want to the front. To make the light seem more focussed, you can take a 20mm Carclo lense and glue it to the Flora (they are meant for high-power LEDs like the tri Cree for which you can take the same lense) Adafruit neopixel Floras Status LEDs: They are for status dislay, you can use them to display ammo or currently selected mode, like I show in some of my videos. They can replace or complement an OLED status display. They are the same neopixels are the stripes and the Floras, but slightly more dense than even the 144LED/m and on a rigid PCB, which lends itself better to build it in facing outwards. Adafruit neopixel sticks Trigger switch: Take one with a long lever. You might have to look for it on international sites, but I can link in one from a German vendor to show how it looks like: momentary switch with long lever OLED display: An OLED status display makes an awesome mod to your blaster, it can be used for multiple purposes from ammo count display to intro screen etc. Make sure you pick one with 128x32 dots using I2C interface (4 pins, GND, VCC, SCL, SDA). Color white or blue. 128x32 I2C OLED dislay