ScaryGuy

Thanks! Now get those snaps and submit your application too!

Thank you! I'm very happy my build is Centurion worthy!

I'm curious if you can get the step up voltage converter to work correctly with the usb powerpack. My converter tried to draw too much current when starting to speak causing the powerpack to shutdown. Would be nice getting it to work with a powerpack, I'm not happy using 9V batteries all the time.

Thanks Christian!

I followed up on the advice given in my EIB application: I removed another 10mm from the front of the thighs, and 20mm at the back. I raised the thighs a bit so the sniper plate overlap is now less. This improves my mobility, I can bend my knee further then before. Because I removed more at the back the thighs are no longer touching the butt plate. Here are pictures of the changes. I had to take these myself (phone on timer) so I couldn't wear my entire armor.

Name = Theo van Geffen Forum name = ScaryGuy Garrison = Dutch Garrison 501st Legion Member Link = http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21188 EIB application = http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36838-tk-31026-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-anovos629/ Armor = Anovos Helmet = Anovos Height = 5'7" (170 cm) Weight = 150lbs (68 kg) Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = TKittell Hand Plates = JustJoseph Electronics = Romfx + ukswrath hovi speakers Neck Seal = Anovos Holster = Darman 4oz Blaster = Doopydoo full resin with a lot of FISD: T-Jay completion kit Gazmosis replacement mag Blue snaggletooth hengstler replica Themaninthesuitcase 3D printed parts Bulldog44 hollow resin M38 scope Front Back Right Left Right arm raised Left arm raised Bucket off Action shot Abdomen detail Side rivets / kidney notch Ab plate snap Shoulder bridge details Shoulder bell distance (left) Shoulder bell distance (right) Cod butt connection Sniper plate Thigh ammo belt TD brackets Strapping Neck seal Gloves Ammo belt Wrist return edge Helmet front Helmet right Helmet left Helmet back Hovi mic detail S-Trim Lens c Blaster left Blaster right Blaster rear (d-ring)

Thanks for the explanation Tony. I haven't had any issues yet with the thigh/sniper plate. There's a bit of foam inside the thigh keeping it from my knee cap. I do have a bit of mobility issues at the back of my knees, I can walk stairs but with difficulty (one step at a time). So I will definitly look into the thigh length, especially at the back. But for now, I like to continue with my Centurion application .

Thanks guys! Very happy with my EIB status ! Tony, your extremely detailed build thread gave me the confidence I needed for my first build. Thank you ! Just to be clear, the recommendations do not affect my Centurion application if I apply now? As you can see in the picture of my back, the shoulder bells are already touching the back plate. If you look in the pictures below you can see the shoulders on the Anovos front plate are less wide then the back plate. That's why there's still a bit of a gap at the front visible. I can't bring them in any closer to the back plate. Because I'm a small person there's very little distance between the front and back shoulders. For a big person this gap is much wider, allowing more room to bring in the shoulder bells. Also, because the front plate is a bit wide for me the shoulder bells are already catching the edge of the front plate when I raise my arms. Left shoulder Right shoulder Personally I prefer the sniper knee overlapping the thigh. This hides my knee and avoids the sniper plate catching inside the thigh. In this screencap there are also several TK's with the sniper plate overlapping the thigh. I will look into the butt plate touching/overlapping the thighs. I think I will remove a bit more at the back of the thighs to give the butt plate more clearance. Thanks guys for the time spend on all these applications, much appreciated!

Thanks Brian! Yeah, I'm pretty happy with the inner helmet setup. I hate seeing wires etc .

I finally finished my Doopy blaster. I updated the pictures and description in the first post reflecting the current state of my armor.

I also noticed that when posting a reply the reply is added to the thread, but the thread doesn't show that a new reply has been posted. The last modified time of the thread remains unchanged. <br><br> For example, I posted a reply here: <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37744-suitcase-props-3d-printed-e-11-parts/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37744-suitcase-props-3d-printed-e-11-parts/</a><br> I got a database driver error when trying to post, resulting in 3 posts. But the last reply date is still set to 29 Jul 2016 and the thread is still listed at the bottom in that forum. People might miss updates because of this.

Hi Chris! I ordered your 3D parts for my doopy build. Front sight block and pin: Stock cube: End cap clip: I bought your 1.0 power cylinders, but when you upgraded it to version 1.1 I couldn't resist getting the new one . I first gave it three coats with humbrol aluminum, sanding it with 500 grit or higher after each coat. Then switched to humbrol satin black repeating the process. In the end I didn't use your flashguards, the doopy ones worked better for me. A big thanks for making these parts available to us! It makes my blaster a better one!

I finished painting my scope. I started with a white primer layer, then painted it with humbrol brass spray paint. For my blaster I'm using Motip spray paint, and I can spray this quite generously but still get a thin sharp layer. I applied the Humbrol paint the same as the Motip, but it's a much ticker paint. so the text on the top of the scope was almost gone. When the paint was almost dried I removed the paint on the text area with some thinners. This removed the paint but also removed some depth/sharpness of the text. I touched it up with some primer, skipped the brass and sprayed the text area with the black Motip paint. I had some trouble getting white paint sticking to the text. After several attempts I used regular acrylic wood paint, let it dry, then removed the excess paint with my nail. White text is still a bit faint in the picture below. In the last picture the white text is now more visible after my last attempt with the acrylic paint.

Hi Tino!<br><br> The outer ring for the small lens is a bit loose in my kit, the threading on the inner ring works perfect though. Also the lens is not located between in the inner and outer ring, but at the back of the inner ring, so there's nothing behind the lens to support it. I looked at the inner ring with the opague lens and I assumed it should be mounted at the back to give it the same appearance as the opague one. Therefore I have to glue the lens at the back of the inner ring.

I received my M38 type 1 kit yesterday. This kit is really awesome! I can't find any defects on the outer or visible parts, other than the imperfections cast from the original. Excellent quality! Packaging is also excellent, it comes in a sturdy box made by Brian himself. It looked like a standard box to me, until he told me he custom makes them. A very nice touch! Today I had some time to work on the scope. First I drilled the holes for the supplied screws on the smaller lens side. The holes were drilled 0.5mm less than the screw diameter. I replaced the two adjustment screws with the ones that come with T-Jay's completion kit. These fit perfectly inside the holes, whereas Brian's supplied screws need some work on the screw heads. T-Jay's completion kit comes with a monocular that can be stripped for its lenses. I had to fit these inside the scope lens rings. The two large lense rings where a bit to big to fit inside the scope, so I had to sand down the outside of the rings (removing the threading) to make them fit. The diameter of the monocular lens was slightly less than 22 mm, where the lens ring had an inner diameter of approx 22.5 mm. The only drill that I had around that size is 20 mm, so I used that one. As you can see the drill was not perfectly centered. My drill skills aren't that precise so I'm glad I found Brian's scope project! Otherwise I had to attempt to hollow my doopy scope. I removed the remaining area with a sanding bit on my dremel. My smaller lens is 11 mm in diameter with the inner ring being 10 mm. I drilled the inner ring with a 10 mm drill, then made a recessed area on the back of the inner ring to fit the lens in. After painting the lenses will be glued in the rings. To attach the rings inside the scope I will probably use some E6000 to keep them in place. The two feet came with a cast of threaded rod pieces, I cut them off as I will be drilling holes in the feet for the mounting bracket screws. I guess it's ready for painting now. I highly recommend Brian's kit, a great upgrade for a doopy kit.

That's too bad. I haven't been to large events yet, and the hovi speakers seem fine for the events I've been to. So you're gonna use the romfx with the Pyle? The romfx speaker also isn't loud enough? No, I wouldn't do it differently. I just would have cut the thighs sooner if I knew how it turned out . I was afraid cutting the return edge would be really visible, but it isn't. Well at least if the thighs fit your legs correctly. I can move a finger around my thigh when wearing them. Because they hang on the front on my garter belt they tilt back so it closes the gap on the front. So put some painters tape around the top and mark a cut line using a compass. One end of the compass can follow the return edge, the other end draws the line on the painters tape. Start with only a little bit. I cut 10 mm and it was already enough for me. It's easer to cut multiple times then to put some material back. Cutting the return edge on the top of the thighs doesn't effect centurion approval. What matters is how the thighs fit you.

Thanks! Feel free to borrow my ideas, sharing is what this forum is about. The black switches are "SCI R13-270 C-02", the red one is even a bit smaller in depth but I couldn't find a part number on it. They require a 15 mm mounting hole. Most others that I found need a 20 mm hole. Ukswrath used a large powerbank with a dedicated 9 or 12V output. I will look into his hearing assist thread. I also found out that my powerbank uses quickcharge 2.0. This allows a device to request a higher voltage, like 9 or 12 V. The device has to put specific voltage levels on the D (data) lines. Then the powerbank will switch to a higher voltage. Might also be interesting to investigate, but for now the 9V battery will do. I haven't trooped with this setup yet. I'm still deciding where to put the mic. It needs to be really close to pick up my voice. I already lowered the sensitivity level. Are you using the romfx supplied mic? Volume with the hovi speakers is turned to max. Output volume is ok if speaking difectly to someone, but no idea how that works in noisy environment. The romfx speaker has a bit more output, but it has to be mounted in the armor. Could be a fallback option if needed. The romfx setup is not as loud as an aker.

After 3 troops I'm still happy with my fan solution, so it was time to make things final. I removed everything from the inside, and give the helmet the plastidip treatment. I carefully taped everything but I didn't notice that the paint could get through the gap near the ears. So when I removed the bag there was some spray near the ear gaps. Luckily plastidip is easy to remove. I also bought a rom/fx, and the hovi mic speakers from ukswrath. I like everything placed inside the helmet, with no cables attached to the armor. I added another switch so I can also switch the rom/fx on and off. Could be handy if it gets into a feedback loop. Originally I wanted to power the rom/fx from my Anker powercore 10000. However, the rom/fx needs 9 - 12V and the powerbank is 5V so I needed a converter. I bought a 5 - 12V converter from Pololu (https://www.pololu.com/product/2577). The powercore can deliver 2.4A so I thought it would be more then enough the rom/fx. Here's the wiring with the converter. This week I received my rom/fx and I tested it with the converter. Things didn't work as planned though, When turning up the volume the initial current when starting to speak is so high the powerbank is shutting off. With a USB wall adapter I measured peak current of 2.7A - 3A. Way too much for the powerbank. With a 9V battery the max current is around 1A. So I guess the combination with the DC converter is the cause of drawing so much current. I don't have enough electronics knowledge to solve this myself. I was hopig buying a standard converter would be enough, but I think for this to work something is needed that is designed specifically for the rom/fx / powerbank combination. So for now I dropped the idea and I will be using a 9V battery. The 8x AA solution is too big to fit inside the helmet. The results. The powercore is in the back of the helmet with the 9V battery on my right. The rom/fx is on the left. It's larger then I thought but still fits next to the hard hat liner. I used cable management ties (double sided velcro) to mount them in the helmet. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Very crisp and clean look, much better. I'm still working out the rom/fx mic placment. It has a very stiff bending wire. I think I'm going to attach it behind the vocoder area.

Woohoo!

I also have an order in John's current batch. I asked him about the possibility for an audio input and it was not possible. Maybe someone with some electronics knowledge could find the input of the onboard amp and add another signal into it. But no standard feature on the romfx classic. I believe there was a romfx pro that could play 3 different pre programmed sound bites. These could be controlled with 3 buttons in your glove with a cable running to the romfx pro. Not really a TK chatter option.

Congrats! Well done!

Thanks! Yes, walking around with just TK's was amazing. Hearing "oh look, stormtroopers!" all the time (next to "it must be hot inside"). I don't think many other costumes have that same effect. If you're into star wars that obscure expanded universe character is totally cool, but unknown to the general public. But everyone recognizes a TK, and loves to see them. Apart from the totally scared kids, but hey we ARE the bad guys .

Just before my first troop there where two things still bothering me: the foam padding wasn't tight enough, so there was still too much wobbling when I move my head. And I didn't like my self made bracket solution. It wasn't strong enough to keep it in place when I toggle the switches, and all the duct tape gave it a sloppy look. First I decided to replace the helmet foam with a hard hat liner. I used duct tape to find the best mounting position inside the helmet, then I glued the helmet clips with E6000. This feels so much better! Now the helmet follows my head movement, even with fast turns. Because there's more air around your head it doesn't feel like your wearing a helmet. I ditched the bracket and decided to go for a static solution. I made some abs brackets for mounting the switches. These are glued to the helmet with E6000. I also glued elastic bands to hold the power pack. I used wire tubing to hide the wires. These are currently only held by the bracket and power pack. I glued some foam on the back of the fans and cut it a bit round. This makes it easier to glue/stick the fans to the curved part of the helmet. I'm pretty happy how it turned out. A much cleaner look and it takes less space then the bracket. After that I was all set for my first troop! My first troop was at the "Stripdagen Haarlem" , a comic festival mostly focussed on european comics. It was really awesome! People didn't really expect cosplayers (it's not a comic con) so we drew a lot of attention. A lot of people and kids wanting to take pictures with us (3 TK's and a commander). It was pretty hot but I had both fans running and they worked great. I also have quite some room at my sides, so sometimes there was some cool breeze running through. I really had a lot of fun. We were asked by a local toy store, the "Toy Boys", here's us posing with them. I'm on the left. Everything went great. I even walked some stairs. It was a bit tricky but I managed to look a bit through the frown watching the steps. The only issues I had were my feet: I had some blisters because the TK boots are a bit tight and still brand new. We made a few rounds walking around the festival, and by the last round my feet really started hurting. I already stretched the shoes a bit by putting bags with water inside the front of the shoes and putting them in the freezer for some hours. When the water freezes it will expand and strecht the leather a bit. I also found a crack in the hard hat liner. Not sure when this happened but I glued the crack and put some tape around it. I might have to replace it already. After a few upcoming troops I'm gonna strip the inside of the helmet and give it the plasti dip treatment. I also ordered a Rom/FX and ukswrath's hovi mic speakers. Everything will be mounted inside the helmet after the plasti dipping. But first, more troops! I got two more upcoming this weekend. Woohoo!

After the E6000 had cured I could test my valuables bag solution. I found one that was almost the same size as the O II plate. I stuffed everything that I normally carry around in it (wallet, iphone, keys) and put on the armor. Well, that didn't work. It's too thick so the backplate was more then an inch from my back. Searching through my closet I found an old travel wallet which hangs around your neck. Very thin and a bit smaller. It has enough space for my phone, ID / ATM card, some cash and a car key. Not enough space to bring my entire wallet or the prison guard key set I normally walk around with. So I have to let some stuff at home when going to a troop. I cut the neck cord from the wallet and applied some more snaps. So for now I'm pretty much done for my first troop.

Didn't think of that. Hmm, tempting ... .