Trogdor

Congrats!

JC - thank you for the quick answer.<br> I lucked out. only cut 4 - 15mm and 1- 20mm until just now. I cut 2 - 25mm for backs of shins, another 4 -15mm to finish the arms and biceps, and 3 - 20mm for fronts of thighs and shins.<br> Because I am shimming and painting the backs of the thighs 20 will work but I would think the 25mm I need for the calves would look wrong.<br> At this point I'm getting close and don't want to blow it on a cover strip width. I'll sleep on it, but I'll probably cut 25. I'm well practiced at peeling off dried e6000. It's only plastic...

My guess is Mtk. Looks good to me paint job is great!

Before I cut the cover strips for the thighs is the proper dimension for the backs 25mm like the calves?

Well I have all the torso strapping done. Glue drying on the shins. Shoulder straps are also glued and drying. Elastic is cut for arm strapping but I have to finish sanding. I'll post pics tomorrow.

Good luck, It looks like you almost there.

Jc, Thanks! I am subscribed to your thread but I really appreciate you reaching out. Troopers helping troopers. I wish I was making as much progress as you. Looking at your build thread I used thicker plastic (not bucket thick though) fully backing the shim area already. Also I cut the shims using the same paper technique you demonstrated. I am busy for the next couple of weeks but I hope to get back on the build after that.

Your moving on this build.<br><br> Nice thinking on the granite. I thought I was clever using the top of the table saw.

Congrats! Hope to be posting to EIB soon.

Steve,<br> Thank you for all you've done, be it answering question or driving builders to accuracy. Best of luck for your future endeavors.

Germain, Thanks for the quick reply. Always helps calm the nerves. I'll cut a 25mm cover strip lose the overly thick upper return edge and see where that leaves me.

Well I think I ran in to another whammy... Is this a EIB/Centurion breaker? Thats a 20mm cover strip. I can probably go to 25mm, based on what I have read. I also have some return edge to lose up top but all of that is not going away. Is that even going to make basic approval?

I just have to say as busy as Mike is he has responded to every one of my emails. He has been nothing but helpful and has stood behind everything I've bought.

I agree with this unless it's just the white version. In which case it's the color of white clay (light grey). I bought super white which should appear white after mixing white and black components. Some of the videos I found on it suggest weighing the two different parts to be sure they are equal.

Unfortunately I can't help as I am just behind you. (Ready to fill the seams). I had made some test pieces and got the Apoxie sculpt to break at large forces but my seams where larger. I wonder if there has to be a certain amount to stay strong and enough bond area to stay adhered? I had pretty lousy luck with abs paste perhaps I should give it another attempt. Thanks for sharing this. I'll let you know if I come up with any thing.

Awesome progress. These team builds amaze me. Keep up the good work.

Quick photo update from this weekend. I made the elastics for the rivets. Doubled it over and sewed with a zigzag stitch so it doesn't impact the stretch as much as a straight stich. Based on my new elastic making experience I learned its kind of hard to unsnap or snap with out some extra material so I tried it with webbing. I made the female portion of the snap a touch loose to allow for rotation so it does catch the under suit. As an added bonus this is thicker so less chance of bending these long post tandy snaps. Exposed: Hidden: Decided to try out the apoxie sculpt (super white). I thought why not use it to make the shoulder bridges easier to glue. As an added bonusI can see how the color matches. Two parts prior to mixing. Filled bridges ready for gluing.

Jamie Thanks for the speedy reply. I think I'm going to go with dritz snaps for the on armor ones as the tandys I've been using have a long post and I really don't want to screw it up. Also I realized I need to track down cap rivets for the thigh packs.

This is just a post asking for some help.<br> Can anyone give me a max drop box depth. Most of the ones I've seen people are having trouble getting them deep enough. I just cut off all the flare and I'm at ~18mm for the outer box.<br> For the right torso snap I was guessing ~10 from ab kidney and about 20 down. <br> Also for the snaps on the butt is there any guiding measurements?<br><br> Status update:<br> Did a bit of work gluing thighs are now enclose and I made templates for the shims. Cut the cover strips and did the snap plates for the side closure. I'll give it some time to hopefully get feedback on the rivet locations before I drill.

Amazing skills. It's awesome seeing it all come together.

This is awesome! I did both pic and xbone. Have to say I'm better with the mouse and keyboard. Looks and sounds great though a bit in balanced for a fps.

Want to start off with a pic to show how much work I have ahead of me on the thighs. This is why I was so concerned about having the fronts right. Easier to do it right than to fix it. Outer cover strip removed. I just started at the easiest end, in my case the top. and used a plastic putty knife trying to keep the strip flat so I could reuse it. Lucky for me the glue may have not been fully dry under there as it cleaned up easy. I guess I made the right decision taking these apart here was the widest point. No wonder so much armor ridge was sticking out. Inner cover strip finally off. Much easier than the outter strip as it is more flexible or because I didn't care if it broke. Cleanup here was the worst. Used a scrap piece of armor and gloves to rub off the glue. Now that I am waiting for glue to dry again here are some defered general updates. Buttons painted sanded and glued. How do these rivet locations look? They are 10mm to center 20mm from top of Ab and 20mm from start of cod. ~60mm center. Reflected that to kidney as that didn't exactly line up (hence the rubbed out pencil lines). Snap plates installed and some elastic straps made. Thanks to whom ever had the popsicle stick clamping jig idea (I will try to edit to give credit. There are so many great ideas and builds out there). I left the return edges large here as I am not sure about the final strapping method. If I want to use brackets they would be hard to put back...

I tore them apart. The upside is my plastic cutting skills are getting better so I was able to trim little amounts off and get it close. I will say I have no good method for removing dried e6000, just rubbing with a scrap piece of plastic. I probably could have "gotten away with it but I would hate for it to get called out in a review. Although I want to stand next to you guys and blend in I have to remember the suits aren't supposed to be perfect. They are getting glued up again now. I'll post some pictures tonight.

Thanks Jamie. I'm not sure how I missed your post. I'll give it a bit before I start with the Apoxie sculpt. Though with both you and Steve chiming in I'm feeling better.

Steve, Thanks for the quick reply. I am pretty sure your closer to an expert than I am. Also you have built to the high standards so it mean a lot. I am getting ready to shim the thigh backs so if I was going to have to pull it apart now would be the time. I have the thighs set so there is about a fingers worth of space. So I won't have a ton of room to play with. The biggest issue I had was the fit. Even the wife commented it did't look right. I have trimmed a lot off since then, I will have new test fit shots this weekend If all goes to plan. I have all my magnets and clamps tied up right now so I hope to have all inner strips done by the weekend.