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TakoTuesday

501st Member[501st]
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Everything posted by TakoTuesday

  1. TK11088 requesting access http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=20264
  2. Just when I thought you couldn't make your kit nicer you add binos...
  3. Thanks. The "clips" are made from scrap ABS plastic trimmed from installed cover strips so they're about 20mm wide. I'm sure you could get away with 3/4" or 1" wide pieces because the tension in the lenses will make up for any slop and still keep it securely in place. Following the advice from everyone I've spoken to in my garrison, I have made sure there are gaps between the lens and the helmet face to allow for air flow. The lenses are cut much larger than the eye openings so the gaps are not noticeable. Here's a pic of the gap taken from above and slightly behind. Without light illuminating the inside of the helmet this gap cannot be differentiated from the dark color lens. Once I paint the inside of the helmet black it will be practically invisible to even Chewbacca sized individuals. If anyone wants I can make a quick tutorial on how I made my retention clips.
  4. Here's how I installed my lenses and mouth mesh. They can be easily removed for cleaning/replacement.
  5. I decided to start finishing up my helmet by adding in some removable lenses and mouth mesh. I just eye balled the sizes for everything and started cutting... The lenses were cut from welding lens material that everyone seems to recommend. The retention tabs were cut from scrap ABS and formed using a heat gun. Now the lens can be easily removed for cleaning and replacement should it get scratched, etc. The mesh for the mouth is just screen door mesh. Its glued to a frame made of scrap ABS and bent to shape. The retention tabs are also made using extra ABS. I had intended on adding a tab at the top but the two bottom ones keep it held securely. Here's both the lens and the mouth mesh installed.
  6. Got some of the local garrison guys to help mark the shins so I could taper them to look correct. Ended up having to add shims to them for the Velcro closure. The shim is on the inside where no one will see it so there's no need for sanding or making it look pretty.
  7. Thanks Allan. I may be able to cast the receiver and stock of a nonfunctioning MG34...
  8. The entire barrel assembly printed out. Sights, pins and other parts still need to be added (they are separate pieces because they will be able to move). I've already made some minor adjustments to some components but it's done and I'm happy with it.
  9. Those parts turned out great! I can't wait to see the final blaster.
  10. The receiver is a deceptively simple section. My intention is to include as much detail as possible.
  11. What I think he's trying to say is that using acetone as the primary adhesive for ABS may not be the best choice for most people as it is likely their first (and only) TK armor. Acetone aggressively dissolves ABS and any spills, drips or missteps will likely result in permanently tarnishing surface areas which cannot be easily repaired.
  12. Chris' vest is nice. He custom makes a lot of the parts on the vest including the pouches. I modeled the buckles and straps for him.
  13. More parts have been modeled, printed and assembled. Another angle of my DLT19 so far. This is a composite image. Here's a comparison with a friend's DLT-19 which was cast from a real MG34. It's not bad for just using reference photos and "guestimating" my measurements. I'm pleased with my results so far.
  14. More parts modeled. Lots of detail was added but may be omitted in the final design depending on how well they print. Most of the levers, pins and the rear sight will be separate to allow them to move or be pressed into place and appear more accurate. My test print of this piece was successful but did not have the detailed features of the current model. It did achieve a secondary goal of mine which was to integrate the existing connectors into the final design. This will allow for separation of the barrel assembly and receiver/stock, making it smaller and more portable when transporting to and from troops.
  15. After seeing the bipod turn out great I think this will too.
  16. Here's my current DLT build with more parts added. I am printing the AA sight base in multiple pieces to avoid using supports. I've also made some progress on the DLT19 bipod model. My goal is to make the bipod functional and hopefully durable enough to troop with. I don't think I'll be adding the spikes to the bottom of the bipod feet because it'll only cause the DLT to slide around on the tips when the bipod is deployed. Instead I am thinking of replacing the spikes with rubber feet used for furniture which will help keep the DLT from sliding around on smooth concrete floors. Not sure what I'll do about the spring for the bipod legs. I may just omit them since they're not critical to complete this build. As far as surface finish I think I will leave some of the striations visible to imitate rough tooling marks seen on many surviving MG34s.
  17. Thanks for the measurements Bill. It looks like I'd have to make a separate set of files to be more proportionate to the PVC pipe. I think it would be more efficient and affordable (keeping with the poor man build) to have only a couple printable parts for the PVC pipe build. AA sight base (ring?) Test prints assembled with barrel shroud. It's missing the bipod mount because I forgot to put it on when I took the pic.
  18. Wow... those bipod components came out nice
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