sharkbait

I will await your comparisons! I'm leaning towards TFA, starting shinny, letting it weather naturally, then stopping it when I feel it's right, get the best of both worlds...

If the CRL still isn't finished by the time I've got my kit, my decision is made: I'm not into being the first; I want that CRL to be utterly complete and tell me EXACTLY what I need to do, lol. I'm not confident enough for guess work. But we'll see- I think it's going to be neck and neck, honestly.

I would do a combo- a little abs paste then cap it off with a strip to brace it, attack it form both ends. My shoulder straps are also cracking in the same way (occupational hazard, I'm afraid).

I'm still awaiting my BBB Day (KB Props), but I already have my Thorsson helmet, and started chipping away at it. (I'm also in the middle of like, four other builds that I'm determined to finish before I really start Phasma, so I can devote all my time and energy to her). I decided to do Phasma before TLJ came out, but now I have options- and I'm not sure which way I want to go. Anyone have any thoughts? How different is the TFA to TLJ, really? I've noticed the following: difference in shine, belt boxes, finger armor, and addition of baton. Anything I missed? I'm making that baton regardless, because it's freaking awesome. I like the shinnier, but if I have to fabricate new belt boxes or finger armor... I'm good, but I'm not that good.

Look at those shiny white boots! That won't take long to fix. Not much else to say other than what's been said: belt up to where the snaps are, just below the ab buttons. Pull up the thighs to make a tighter seam between the cod and thighs- you can trim down the top of the backs if needed to still fit and not stab you in the behind. Pulling the thighs up will also help the belt boxes from slipping under them. So glad to see another ESB!

I agree this should be an easy pass for basic! I'd echo making the buttons a little bigger, and tightening the shoulder bells just that tiny bit. Are the ab rivets on the shim tab, or is that just shadows?

Here's a further update on KB Props: He's partnered with another guy, Hal, who is taking over order fulfillment. This is promising as there has been a sizable wait (and lack of communications) previously. ABS is still the most requested as therefore carries the longest wait, but there are other options. Check out KB Prop's Facebook page for more details. Hal was nice to talk to and he's quick to respond.

I'm not sure of whitearmor requirements, but it might be a minimum number of posts before you can post such a thread. I suggest introducing yourself in the Introductions thread- that's a good place to start! Also, I might actually have someone who's interested in an RS Propmasters kit. I'll shoot you a PM. For feminine curves, I would recommend AM 2.0. That's what I have, and it fits my hips perfectly (I'm tall, and not petite)- I'm about a 14/16 women's pants size. Also you can look at the Various Types of Armor and Where to Find Them. That should help you decide what's available and what would most likely work for you.

WHAT?! NOOO!! That is terrible news! Thank you for sharing, however this is useful information. This is going to leave a huge hole in the boot market, which is very unfortunate.

Congratulations! Welcome to the ranks!

I've always loved the original/now Legends Death Troopers. I forgot where I read it, but I recall seeing something along the lines of "use common sense" when trooping a Death Trooper at an event, and I would take that to extend to how much gore/weathering/tearing apart to include. The detonator is listed under required parts, so I'd say it's required and except for the distressing, it's the same basic requirements as a normal TK. You could likely source parts pretty cheaply to replace the FX one. A fruther note about FX armor, which if you have it you probably already know, but just in case: Per the CRL, it states: FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval. FX helmet is no longer permitted for new approvals But then later under Helmet requirements: Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements. So... as to that, that's a question for someone other than myself. Your GML would likely be the next stop for that one. Bottom line, the Death Trooper CRL is much the same as the TK CRL, just with added weathering/gore/broken pieces.

I have a very similar mike to TKSnake's recommendation- I like it. IF you get too close to another trooper with the same set up you might cross-voices through, due to the signals being the same. Use a good amp- buy a real Akers the first time, not a cheap one or a knock off, you'll save yourself headache and money later (I speak from experience). Also, if you want to add to the voice effect you can use an iComm chatter box. Expensive, but worth it, in my opinion. Akers and iComms can be found here: http://store.voicebooster.com

If you can get a pair in your size (ie, you don't have a popular size, or don't mind waiting a while) I also recommend TKboots.com. They're Centurion-ready. I have a pair and I love them; they've head up to heavy trooping (80 in two years) and are pretty comfortable. I would still add a Dr. Scholl's type insert into any trooping boot- we do a lot of standing. (I have inserts in all my trooping boots, for all costumes).

To my eyes, your squared toes don't look too far off from the round-ish TK Boots I have (which are approved)- yours aren't a sharp square, and the traditional aren't a solid round shape, but like a rounded square. I would run that by your GML prior to making a decision, however. Also, if you were going for EIB or Centurion, I would run it past one of those guys first, to see what they say. As to your second question: go matte. The old original style boots with the seam were glossy looking, and nowadays glossy tends to look like cheap costume boots. Plus, all current TKs I've seen have matte boots (also including myself). They start a bright matte, but they're definitely matte.

In terms of basic assembly for any detonator, I left one of my end caps unglued- my idea was I could put my keys or other small objects in there while trooping. I have done that exactly once, but the idea was sound . It would be useful if you had an area where bin storage wasn't optimally secure and you wanted to keep your keys and cash on you. Though a detonator would be the first thing a kid might steal (I say this because I have stolen TKs detonators while trooping my Jawa so I can attest to their vulnerability). So that was likely entirely unhelpful. Actually helpful note would be putting the soft fuzzy size of white velcro onto the back of the clips so they won't scratch up the kidney plate.

I used a cheap motorcycle shield. I think I used dark smoke, or smoke, all brands call it something different (BiLT is a cheap one by Cycle Gear, if you have those where you are). Just find the cheapest one your local motorcycle store has, trace your old lenses on it with a sharpie, then use a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut out the lenses. Dremels like to jump when doing thsi kind of thing, I will warn you, though, so slow and steady wins the race. Alternatively, if you can find material thin enough, you can use lexan or tin snips to cut them out.

Welcome! Bar heater, huh? Well, we all have our mishaps. Here's to more troops and no complications!

I would also add (if someone has already then I second it)- check out the EIB and Centurion applications for those with your armor maker. Tons of close-up shots for all those details, and if they've been approved, then you know they're fine to emulate.

If you can get your TK armor on completely by yourself- my hats off you to! I can do everything but my shoulder bells connections. Very good advice! Yes, yes, you can never have too many clamps, or magnets. But especially clamps.

Welcome! Glad you figured out one of the secrets is looking at Centurion applications for your armor maker. That stuff is gold!

Welcome!

Looking pretty good! Glad to see another ESB TK coming down the pike.

Darman's neck seals are great. I have one from Trooperbay.com, which I love- they go up to 19'' neck and will do custom orders if your size isn't listed. As to boots, I checked Imperialboots.com for you, but unfortunately theirs only go to US 12. Other than TK Boots (which I have) I'm not aware of any other white boot vendors... People have gone for the black Chelsea boot and painted it white with leather paint. It will require touch up, but if need be, it'd get you into some boots. TK Boots are custom made for them, last I heard at least, so you might want to reach out and see if they could make a larger pair. Worth a shot, at least. Good luck!

I used nylon webbing, Tandy Line 10 snaps and E6000- when I do any other builds with snaps I plan to use the same method. I also used my soldering iron with a pointed tip to make a nice clean hole to put the snap through. Also you'll need to burn the cut edges of the nylon with either a lighter or a soldering iron to prevent fraying. Here's my snapping system, I probably went a little overboard, but it works well for me: I also have a snap connection to each shoulder bell from the shoulder bridge connection, and a snap connection from the shoulder bell to bicep, and bicep to forearm. That way I pull on my entire arm armor in on go on each side- very convenient.

Welcome to the ranks! Great tips, too.