ukswrath

Hey Jason, if you're looking to emulate the Desert Captain (Look Sir Droids) here's a few SWAT request threads. . http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=12913 http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=13397 http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=12376

112? All of your are insane

Thanks Q

Forearms cont... 6) Glue plate to sides. Before we get started there's a couple things to discuss. If you temporarily assemble the forearms it will become apparent, unless you have tiny hands there's no way you're going to get them through the end of the forearm section. Yea..... that's what I thought too WT...Heck! After going back through and actually READING the tutorials provided by Michael Bender, thanks Mike , 1/3 of the lower plate (on the wrist side) is NOT glued. It's designed to flex allowing your hands to slide through the end. If you look at some Alpha or other builder's pics you may notice that section of the plate sticks out a bit (doesn't look secure). That's why. After making a few test fits I discovered my hands were small enough to where I could get away with gluing one side of the plate as suggested and the other side I could glue from one end to the other. For me there's enough flexibility I can easily maneuver my hand in and out of the wrist side with no issues. I'll have to install my gloves afterwards, but that's what I do anyways. Here's my suggestion. Test fit your forearms and glue accordingly. Option A - If you have difficulty fitting your hands through the wrist end, glue 2/3rds of the plate starting at the elbow side as suggested by others, leaving the lower 1/3 portion near the wrist unglued. Option B - If your hands are smaller you may be able to glue them as I did. Another thing to discuss. To glue, or not to glue the tab on the inner forearm. This little guy here. I decided since I'm going to run the glue all the way down one side, I chose the side with the tab because the other side will have less of a obstruction. Moving on.... Apply glue to forearm sides and secure plate. Option A Option B NOTE: Though not necessary I added additional glue on the inside as a filler between gaps. After glue cure remove clamp, tape and magnets or whatever you used. 7) Assemble forearm box Starting with your trimmed pieces, remove all burs and test fit. After test fit glue base in place. Place a bead of glue to insides of box, slide base inside, place on a table base down, slowly press down of box until flat. 8) Install greeblie (provided in kit) into channel. Apply glue and install greeblie with the single button closest to your elbow. 9) Glue box to forearm plate. NOTE: Align box end (wrist side) between raised section of plate and wrist edge. Final before filler and greeblie install.

Assembly: NOTE: All factory identification labels were left on sections to simplify process. Forearms 1) Prep for assembly. Ensure all ares to be glued are clean and dry. NOTE: Left and Right forearms are identified as follows: Left is labeled 7B, Right is 8B. The remainder of the components fit accordingly, ex 7C, 7D. This is a quick assembly, it is best to mark the sections as not to get confused. ex. 2) Make inner cover strips for inner and outer forearm sides. Measure target area length Outer forearm 245mm. Inner 250mm. 2) Cut cover strips to measured length using provided material. NOTE: I cut my cover strips 25mm in width on both inner and outer sections. 3) Notch inner cover cover strip to accommodate indent. Use 1/2 the cover strip width for the notch. Using a knife of dremel cut out sections. After notches are cut you may need to fine tune the overall strip length. NOTE: Since both left and right forearm sides are virtually the same it was easiest to duplicate the measurements, cut the cover strip then flip it for the other forearm. Once inner cover strips are cut and trimmed it's time to install. 4. Glue inner cover strip to forearm sides. NOTE: As mentioned before it is best to have multiple sections ready to glue as not to waste time, glue and tips. Ex. I glued the forearm sides, calves, one side of the biceps, one side of the thighs and the thermal detonator interior on my first glue setting. NOTE: Scrape away unwanted excess glue immediately, or leave it, whichever you prefer. Glue cure time is 45 minutes. Promptly afterwards remove clamps and magnets and start new section. This was my first experience with excess glue. Unfortunately it was on the side that had to be mated to the forearm base. Dremel and carbide bit was the only thing that could get it off. 5) Glue sides to base. Once dry (45 minutes) remove clamps and magnets.

Assemble tools and material. Tools: A boat load of earth magnets and clamps. Cut resistant & neoprene gloves, old (clean) rag, something small and metal to scrape excess glue with. Safety glasses. Adequate ventilation. Material: Devcon plastic Welder II x2, Devcon dispensing gun and 10 mix tips. As per manufacturers instruction store bonding cartridge in a cool place 75 Degrees on average... AH HAHAHAHA! That's funny. Before I read this (at assembly time) I'd had it in my garage for over a month where the afternoon temps were in the 90s and 100s Needless to say I was a bit nervous that the stuff would be junk. Well all is well in ukswrath buildville I'm happy to report. Here's the goodies Instructions: Assemble gun. Install cartridge and close lock. Remove cap at the end of cartridge by twisting and pulling, WARNING: Clean cap of excess glue. YOU WILL NEED THIS CAP. Install mixing tip. Squeeze trigger to begin the bonding agent mix. Apply mixed glue, 1/8" bead, to one side of section to be bonded. Apply around the edge to gain maximum bond without wasting glue. This stuff is strong, a little goes a long way. See image provided for example. BTW heed my warnings when prompted. Depending on ambient temperature the glue will start to dry (skin over) in 2-5 minutes. Full cure time is 45 minutes. WARNING: The glue mixes as it travels through the tip, this too will begin to harden in 10-15 minutes if not in a constant state of flow. NOTE: After glue is applied, ANY excess glue squeezing out you should try to remove immediately with a small screw driver or something small and metallic. DO NOT USE PLASTIC! When this stuff cures it's like steel. You WILL need a dremel or similar and a carbide bit to remove it. With all the warnings you're probably asking why would I want to use this stuff. Because I assembled my entire armor in 6 hours. From beginning to end with the exception of a couple items. Every 45 minutes you're gluing something. Hence the reason for a boatload of magnets and clamps. If I'd had more clamps I could have easily assembled it in half the time. Important SAFETY information, PLEASE READ!! So many chemicals that are used to assembly armor are toxic. Products like adhesives, fillers, paint, sanding byproducts, these are all toxic to your health and may cause cancer or organ damage over long periods of exposure. I can't stress enough how important it is when using these products to do so in a well ventilated area and/or wear a proper respirator. NOTE: When sanding a well ventilated area in NOT good enough, USE A RESPIRATOR suited for the job.

ASSEMBLY TIME, WOO HOO! :happy and cheerful birthday:

Trimming cont.... Belt boxes

Good enough for me thanks

They're basically the same tips with the exception mine have speakers.

Lol my bad

Yes, but thanks anyways Clint. This is for others to know as well.

That and they have a million customers with twice as many concerns

Lol

Alpha group did things a certain way because of the generation of armor they were sold, not too many reference pics to go by and time constraints. Beta group have some upgrades, more reference pics and the guidance of others. Gamma group I suspect, ok maybe not, I was going to say have it easier. But at this point who knows.

No instructions just following or not following what others have done, looking at screen and behind the scene pics. The build specifics it seems is still up to interpretation within reason. Though the current version of armor clearly lacks some details my goal is to refrence as many screen pics and utilize the experience of prior builders.

Thanks Clint. Also, is there any standard regarding black to white paint ratio on the two center boxes?

The Anovos crew is/was probably following this thread and thinking.... "Um what smoke can we blow at this guy, wa hahaha"

Trimming cont... Ab boxes NOTE: The most complex boxes have heavy pics. #2 on the Ab plate, 9F box #3 on the Ab plate, 9G box #4 on the Ab plate, 9H box #5 on the ab plate, 9I box #6 on the Ab plate, 9J box

Trimming cont... Left rear Calf boxes (if there's a correct name for these someone please let me know) Left (forward) box Right (rear) box

Trimming cont... Thigh holster riser

Trimming cont.... Biceps

Trimming cont... Hand plates

Trimming cont... Shoulder Bells