ukswrath

I don't do bad "in awe"

Thanks for the kudos brother. Just glad this helps

in awe

7g. Thigh Support System (part 1) In this section I'll be installing the thigh support system consisting of 3" wide x 12" black elastic (not supplied in the Anovos kit). The elastic is glued directly to the armor and the opposite end will loop around a waist belt and sewn. Note: Some sort of suspension system is required, how or what you choose to use is not. Part 1 will consist of measure and gluing the elastic to the armor. Part 2 will be the following the final fitment afterwards the ends are sewn. Reference image Measure and cut elastic. Prepare thigh by adding glue to a 4" x 3" section of armor directly behind the front cover strip. Test fit Preparation Add glue Secure

Strapping cont... 6b. Bicep to Forearm strapping In this section I'll be installing the 2" wide black elastic strap that secures the the bicep to the forearm. Note: This is a accuracy component only. It is not needed nor required for any level of approval however, the strap is designed to hold the forearm near the elbow and prevent it from falling down around the wrist, which during Centurion approvals will be part of the overall appearance that is looked at. The 2" elastic was part of the Anovos supplied strap connections but will be used for this area. If you plan on using the Anovos supplied straps for the interior strapping you will want to purchase extra elastic. Reference images The elastic resides inside the armor in this general location Anovos strapping. Remove velcro ends Starting with the bicep. On both arms add glue and secure a 2" section of the strap to the bicep inner half, just to the inside of the front cover strip. Left arm Right arm Let dry or proceed. ​Left arm. Install glue inside forearm corresponding with the left bicep placement. Install elastic leaving a gap approximately 1/4"+ between the forearm and bicep. If you have long arms you might want to add a little more space between the two but not too much. Secure elastic for drying. Right arm Let dry. Once dry you can come back and paint the elastic inside the armor white to match the screen accurate versions shown above.

Excellent job David and thank your making those modifications as requested CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and modifications completed. Your armor displays all the necessary requirements to qualify for Centurion. Sly and myself would like to congratulate you on an outstanding build and welcome you to the rank of Centurion!

7f. Thigh Ammo Pack installation In this section I'll be installing the thigh ammo pack. The thigh ammo pack is located on the right thigh for those who do not know this. By this time your ammo pack should be trimmed and ready to install except for creating the mounting hole. I'll be using Cap rivets to mount the belt to the thigh. Reference images Ammo pack after trimming Starting with the left side of the thigh lower return edge, measure approximately 1/4" from the back left corner forward. Note: The goal here is to center the ammo pack rear edges on the thigh. You should have an equal distance between the left and right rear corners of the thigh and the ammo pack. The front of the ammo belt will not be centered with the cover which is normal. Drill 1/8" holes at the predetermined location set by Anovos Install cap rivet to secure the left side ammo pack to the left side of the thigh Inside view Outer view Wrap ammo pack around the front of the thigh. Mark the thigh through the ammo pack mounting hole. Drill the mounting hole in thigh then secure the right side with a cap rivet. Inside view Outer Paint. Using white paint, paint the outer rivet heads Final note, the ammo pack can be straight or angled upward a bit. Either way is accepted at all levels of approval. You might also want to add a dab of E6000 between the thigh and ammo pack as well to help prevent the ammo pack from falling down over time. Done!

12c. Upper Back Plate connection point modification This small segment is for those having an issue with the back plate design directly effecting how it fits on taller individuals. In a nut shell I'll be giving the upper connecting strap area a hot water bath to help tone down the sharp angle. This is a suggested fix only. You are not required to perform this modification, nor does it have any bearing on any approvals. Do so at your own risk. Back plate out of the box, after trimming. First thing you want to do is remove a good majority of the return edge at this corner either blending it into the remaining return edge below or removing some of that as well. I found out the hard way, if you don't will crack even when softened up. Bring some water to a boil and keep it around 197F. While wearing protective gloves submerge the corner for around 30 seconds. Remove from water and gently but firmly press onto a flat surface After reshaping the right side Right side view after alteration. Left side is still in its original position.

Yea this back plate is really something else. Hopefully Anovos is reading this and already looking to make modifications. Anyone under 5'10" or less, 165lbs with a 34" or less waist line this armor might fit you straight out of the box. If you're above those specs, creativity will be required. 6'3" is a pretty tall order for any armor manufacture. I would try to take some of the tight curve out of the upper shoulders first. Let post the hot water bath solution I gave mine. Give me a few minutes.

You misunderstood me, if I'd thought 501st basic armor should look screen accurate then I would have also requested the shoulder supports, as well as other areas be mandated at basic, I said neither. The yoke looks like crap unfinished and I seriously doubt everyone will be using the same adhesives to hold it together. The filler and paint is to hide the undesirable look of the area. You of all people should know at the Garrison approval there is an expected level of accuracy or it's a no go. The yoke and anywhere else on the armor where the armor assembly sticks out like sore thumb should be addressed at basic.

As much as I would like to see it easier for entry level troopers, the Anovos armor, due to its manufacturing process has seams in areas the movie armor doesn't. The yoke for example, as Clint mentioned is highly visible and would be difficult to hide the imperfections. Unfortunately yes, having a set FO TK armor is a bit on the expensive side but so is a Vader costume. There's a couple builders outside of Anovos that have built their armor seamless in the required areas. If they can do it, requesting Anovos buyers to invest in some bondo/filler and a few cans of spray paint isn't asking too much to have something look correct in it's most basic form in my opinion.

Yea it's a hit and mis here. Mine when labeled 24/25 & 27/28 one was assembled with two outer sections and the other two inner sections. So clearly there's a major screw up with the assembly and the labeling. At this point we need to get the word out when performing a pre assembly check to verify if this is going to be a issue, if so switch sections and recheck. Looks like I'll be updating my shin section again with some reference pics.

There is no return edge requirement, you can remove it if you like. Return edge is there to simulate thickness. If you're thick enough then you don't need it. The shoulder bells should be snug with the biceps and with the upper chest plate to back plate cover strip.

Hey Brian to answer your question there is to be little to no gap between sections, assemble the armor with this in mind. If you are tall or have a long torso you'll have to get a little creative. For example, the trooper I'm building this armor for is 6'1", I had to give the back upper sections a hot water bath so that it followed the contour of his body instead of making a sharp bend as it currently does. This isn't mentioned yet because it part of the fitment alteration I have yet to talk about.

I need a drink haha

Sid, not sure who you're talking to, sorry

Paul, on the contrary however, I just don't blindly accept anyone's answer without proof and that's what I seek. Ive followed you ever since joining. You expect everyone to just take your word everything you say. I'm more than happy to look at more pics you throw out, and I have no problem saying im wrong, if I am.

I understand what you're saying and trying to illustrate above, but I think you're trying to compare apples and oranges here. With the exception of some similarities, the Anovos shins differ in shape. What worked for TM and RS, may or may not work with Anovos. Unless you have a set of Anovos shins in your hands that you can present a correctly assembled side by side comparison, we may have to agree to disagree until more facts come out. It's common knowledge there's a few issues with the armor, or the way it's assembled leaving us with many questions. We'll add this to the list Cheers

Hey Paul thank you for the clarification. I was wondering if you could take a look at these pictures and explain to masses why this shin armor would NOT be the correct one for the leg.

Noted!

That's is very good point Paul. These shins (at least the outer section) aren't shaped like TM or RS. So the million dollar question is you've been telling others my shins are assembled incorrectly yet you use TM, RS, Lucas or whatever as your reference. Will you care to either validate your point or mine please?

Congrats Mario

Home grown FO TK, I love it

Noted!