MoSc0ut
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Posts posted by MoSc0ut
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Have you been to Trifecta Tavern? I was in Portland last year ... Good food there!
I don't think I have, but I've heard of it! I may need to make a trip there now. Portland has sooooo many taverns and brew pubs it's hard to decide which one to go to.
Jim M.
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Good Idea Jim. Another method for retaining your shins is to put Velcro on the inside of your shins and top/front of your boots. Works well too.
Good Luck!
Thanks for the tip! The thought of gluing Velcro to my new boots makes me a bit queasy.
lol!Jim M.
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haha!..hands with oven mitts!
I thought it was Zoidberg helping with the boiling water! Lol! Whoop! Whoop! Whoop! Whoop! Whoop!
Jim
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Nice job on the shin closures and ABS paste!
Thanks "68"! I'm going to add some elastic in the bottoms to keep them from creeping up but they were one of the things I was most worried about.
Jim M.
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He used snaps!
Jim M.
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I was too going to go "full screen accurate" but instead I stuck to the things others would actually see. Stuff inside the armor I'm modifying for comfort. If it doesn't effect my future shot at a Centurion application I'm not going to worry about it and make what works best for me and my comfort. After all we will spend a lot more time in our armor than actors in SW did.
Jim M.
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As you know, it's half following what others have done and half figuring out things on your own!
Jim
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It all depends on the process used to dye the leather if that will work. If the dye was applied by hand this absolutely could work. If it was commercially dyed it will be mostly through the whole hide. At this point it wouldn't hurt to try as it won't work "as is". Depending on how much length you have on the straps if you trimmed off about an 1/8" you'd be able to tell what you're working with by seeing the cross section.There is a thread where someone sanded a layer off and had the natural hide showing. I'll see if I can dig it up.
Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk
Jim M.
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Or is there a reasonably priced way to bleach or tan the black ones I have?? Is that a good idea?
Thanks!
Once leather is died it's that color indefinitely. You may be able to uses a flat fabric paint to emulate the natural color for a quick fix but your best bet wold be new straps.
Check with your local Garrison as most have at least one person who makes holsters and they probably have scrap laying around they could turn into 2 straps for you.You could also try SWExpress on Etsy. I didn't buy from them (a fellow Garrison member gave me a holster!) but when I asked some noob questions they were quick to respond and also have many good reviews. I would bet they would do a special listing and send you out some replacement straps.
Jim
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That means it's time to sand that shimmed area!
Before:
About halfway:
Forget this! It's time for the orbital sander. **Unless you have experience working with one of these and some 220 grit or finer pads I don't suggest doing this.**
There we go. Better. But I ended up with 1 big bubble that had been buried in the mess of ABS paste I had applied.
I applied a very fine coat of more ABS paste and filled the bubble and will re-sand then polish tonight. I also had some very fine bubbles in the ABS paste too that was catching some of the finer sandpaper grit and making it look slightly darker. I rinsed it really good in the sink prior to the application of the fine coat of ABS paste. Hopefully when I sand tonight that will be solved.
Fingers crossed!
Jim
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Moving right along now. Got some more strapping installed last night.
I worked on the shoulders. I used painters tape to size the chest and back to me. This helped me determine that I needed 2 3/4" of elastic between the top two shoulder pieces. I added 3" length to each side so that I would have plenty of material for the glue to hold onto. I used 2" wide white elastic. All through out the forums, some say 2" and some say smaller. In my experience the wider the strap, the more comfort on the shoulders. I used E6000 here in case I have it wrong and need to peel it off and get the right stuff.
I made alignment marks with my fabric pencil for easy installation.
Sewn on Dritz #10 in the center.
I used some scrap ABS to disperse the clamping pressure evenly over the surface of the elastic.
While that started to cure I thought I'd knock out some bicep elastic too.
.....now I'm out of clamps.
Jim
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Everyones ab armor, in theory, should be virtually trimmed the same.
If you need extra circumference, because it fits too tight, you add it to the kidney.
Here's a pic from the inside of my kidney armor showing the shim I added to give myself a little wiggle room. You figure out how much overall you need to add, divide it in half and add that much to each side using this method.
I hope this helps.
Jim
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If you look at the pic I just posted you'll see that the ab should be trimmed straight from top to bottom with no return edge.
Here is some more pictures that hopefully will be helpful.
Jim
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Here's a better picture.
Starting the sanding of my ABS filler now.
Jim
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It should look like this:
Then you can iron over and ABS paste the gaps.
It should line up flush similar to this:
I'm sanding and polishing tonight so I don't have that finished image....yet!
(I'm holding the ab plate a bit high in this pic.)
Jim
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Hello! Thank you for the compliment. Looking over your build thread and it is certain you will end up a centurion.
Congrats on the good work
Russellr2d2
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks! That means a lot coming from someone who was able to pull off an amazing build for their first time. Hopefully some day we'll cross paths.
I love the plastic mat idea and I'm totally going to "borrow" that too.
Jim
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Indeed! Even though these are so light it feels very solid. Resin being a pourable two part epoxy will hold up to some abuse. I defiantly wouldn't intentionally drop this, or any optic real or reproduction. After all it just made the trip across the largest ocean and US postal carriers aren't known for their gentle touch. Last Christmas they left a computer I bought for my son in the pouring rain 7 feet from our covered porch! The computer survived, thankfully.
Jim
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Oh, by the way. This kit starts out a 1.6 oz. add lenses and a few screws and I'll bet you won't be much over 5 oz. this will be great for trooping.
Jim
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Look what showed up today!
I took pics of everything as I inboxed it. If this is your "B" or "C" grade kit then I can only imagine what your "A" grade must look like!
I won't hijack your thread with my "un-enveloping" once I get over my amazement of this kit I'll start a thread with all my observations and build.
Now that I see the quality of this kit I need to find all the right screws and some lenses and I'm going to give that prism count chocula found a try.
As for that central lens has anyone been able to tell if it has any actual magnification? If I could get my hands on a real scope I know optometrists have a machine that can measure magnification on lenses. If you could talk one into measuring those lenses for you we could source the correct magnification lenses and get really crazy with this!
You know.....Leupold optics is based here in Portland, Oregon. I wonder if I can find a Star Wars fan that works there......hmmmmm!
Jim
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I started following your thread when you started it "way back when". It has been an invaluable resource for my build. I have a Walt's Trooper Factory TK kit and have "borrowed" many techniques you used here. Thanks for being a great resource. If interested you can check out my build. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36035-wtf-anh-stunt-build-wip/?fromsearch=1
Just starting the strapping and final adjustments!
Jim
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Liking your painting skills there. You're doing good.
I thought Walt made chest and / or kidneyplate with extra material on it for those who wanted.
There is extra material there but it goes from nice and smooth to a little bumpy. It may be because my armor was pulled in early March. Walt said they had a late snow this year so it may not have been the best of their pulls. Their vac table was in the unheated garage at the time. It's since been moved to the basement with a little more consistent temps. I also may have gone just a bit too far on the trimming. It's my first set and if I was going to trim too much somewhere, this is the area to make that mistake as it's easy to fix!
Also I am not complaining about Walt's or the kit what so ever. I like everything about Walt's Trooper Factory and their kit is awesome! I really get the feeling I'm working on an original set of armor from the 70's. Which to me is what it's all about.
Jim
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Awesome build thread..
Thanks! I didn't think many were reading or following it. When completed I plan to list out all my resources and compile a "shopping list" that one can print out and take with them as they make the rounds to their local stores or at least save as a .pdf on their devices so you don't have to keep searching through the forum to find it again like I did.
Jim
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I have a fastener speciality store a few miles away. Here is the website http://www.oregonbolt.com, you may be able to contact them with your inquiry. I've found them to be helpful when finding the odd bolt when working on my cars. I am unsure of these smaller fasteners but I'm sure if they can't help you they don't make it! As for cost you'd have to ask them. As most places like this charge a premium for shipping if the price works out on just the hardware, I can stop by and pick up and ship to you for probably much less.
Jim
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As soon as I got home from work today I grabbed these and put them to the test. The hooks are a little tricky to get on but after fiddling with it for a minute I got it. I'm thinking that if you didn't sew through both layers of elastic, like I did, you'd have a little loop you could stick you finger through to make this a bit easier.....
Here's the result of my hybrid calf closures:
Here's them hooked but not situated in the tabs:
Here's them between the tabs, pretty clean I think!
I'm happy with the result. I think I'm calling these done!
Jim
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Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)
in ANH Build Threads
Posted
No on the acetone! It will melt the ABS! You're much better off using a very fine grit sand paper like 500 down to 1500 or finer in steps then finish up with a plastic polish like Novus.
Jim M.