MoSc0ut
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Posts posted by MoSc0ut
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Only thing I would say about this apart from outstanding is the 1 on the side, more accurate if it was a 3...
I know it's just a but pernickety but I'm like that, sorry
the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...
That's just a number that tells you the body style that was used on that particular sight.
Different sights were used in different applications during WWII and this was a way to quickly identify which piece of equipment it went with, most likely based off the reticle style inside the sight. Different gun different ballistic characteristics and therefore different reticles. Many different types were used in the SW movie(s) based on what was available.
www.partsofsw.com/e11guide.htm has some of this information but I couldn't find the original source I read this from.
But based off 23 years of military service (Infantry) I know this is the case with the current ACOG as it can be used on at least 1/2 dozen different weapons AND it too is stamped on the outside of the sight for quick identification.
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I'm working on the same thing tonight. The wife is out of the house for several hours so....IT. IS. ON!!
Jim
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I have the luxury of my two car garage, one side dedicated to my "workshop" (meaning there is not a car or other junk there at the moment.) No worries about venting there, just open the garage door. The only issue is no temperature control. 1st world problems!
Jim M.
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Get a box fan and put it in the window facing out to vent the fumes. You can even get a piece of expanded polystyrene insulation foam board to fill the gap in the upper part of the window to ensure it creates a good negative pressure in the room. This way when you open the door it sucks air in from the rest of the house (and out that window) vs. venting into living areas. Just run the fan while doing a run and during the curing. Once you have everything fitted it should only take a few minutes to install and take down.
Jim M.
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It looks like most of the issues are on the back sides and would never be seen once assembled. I for one would not be bothered by this at all. The outsides looks flawless, if I saw this without any other context, I'd think they were the real deal. I'll go pick my jaw up off the floor now! By the time you get to the second gen of these (after you get professional equipment from all the $ from the first gen!) you'll be the sight guy. Great choice of items to make. There are many different types of Troopers but they all need a blaster and (almost) every blaster needs one of these!
Jim M.
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Here's the trimming sanding and adding the angles to the plastic part of the belt.
And the drop boxes....
I attached the plastic belt with rivets after attaching line 24 snaps for attaching to the armor.
These will be switched out for popper snaps soon but I have my first troop coming up in a few weeks and this needs to be done soon so I can submit.
Fast forward a bit >>
Competed belt. Holster held on with Chicago screws. By the way a huge shout out to Pixelito from the Cloud City Garrison for the holster. This is the ANOVOS hosted that he didn't use in his build. He sent it to me at the low low cost of $FREE.99!! I keep trying to ask him what I can send his way as a thank you and he keeps kindly ignoring my offers. Troopers helping Troopers. Man I really enjoy this community!!
Tomorrow, legs.
Jim
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Here's where my phone died so I couldn't get pictures last night. But I'll do the best by pointing at the finished product.
So your going to open up 10 inches of the seam on each side. Then fold back the half you're not going to attach the Velcro to. Sew on your Velcro.
When you wrap the belt around you the loop (fuzzy) side should be pointing in, towards the armor, and the hook side out. From pictures the belt should overlap clockwise. It should look something like my crap illustration here:
Once you have the Velcro on you're going to sew a seam down the edge.
Close up one end by folding the cut end in and press with iron then sew it shut.
Insert the plastic into the other end then sew it shut too.
Here's a before and after, with / without the plastic.
Jim
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I'm back.
Sewing the 1/4" seam allowance. Those little lines by the sewing foot are measurements if you align the foot all the way one way or the other and check with your ruler you can use the line as a guide to make a nice straight seam.
Don't see the ends shut this is bery important for the next step.
Next you have to invert the whole thing. I used a long dowel to work it through.
It turns out all wrinkled up so next is ironing it flat. Make sure to press it all the way to the seams.
Perfect, 3" wide.
Jim
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Well I was going to fit the legs last night but this arrived:
I have been wanting to work on my belt. I am pretty handy with the sewing machine and I had an idea to improve on one of the How to's here on making these.
First the materials. Canvas, thin plastic sheet, cutting mat, measuring tape, cutting wheel, metal rulers and a pencil.
After measuring me + armor + a little for margin of error = 51"
Strip of plastic measures to 2 1/2" wide. It was only 47" long.....I can make that work! This is to give the belt rigidity so it doesn't have to go all the way around. You'll see later.
Canvas measured 3 1/2 inches ( 3" with a 1/4" seam allowance either side )
Lines and cutting and .....my break is over. I'll finish this when I get home in a couple hours.
Jim
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No way Jim, your casting looks great! Love that sterling grip. And the hovi tips look flawless. Very impressed!
Well, that's after clean up and paint, but thank you. I am going to try and modify some into speakers, not to cut into UKswrath's business or anything, I just think I can make a set cheaper for myself. If it works I'll do a "how to" on it and those feeling ambitious can give it a go.
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Thanks for the reply. I recently made my first attempt at casting myself and when I saw your first ones I was blown away at what you are able to do. I felt like such an amateur after seeing those "first attempts"! After 23 years in the military (retired now) I constantly had to inspect all kinds of items for imperfections but that stuff is made by the lowest bidder! As I said before I have no experience with resin cast parts, besides my own meager attempts. (Hovi mix tips, and a hollow Sterling grip) but if you want a layman opinion I'd be happy to oblige!
Jim
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My issue was more the whole torso area. Digging just a bit on the sides into my ribs and the biceps too. I work out on a regular basis, well I did up until my new job 5 months ago, and I may have trimmed almost too much off when assembling. They are almost too tight but if I take off another 1/16" all around the inside I should be good to go.
Jim
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Trimming thighs and calves. Making 20mm cover strips too. I will be doing the test fitting Monday with help from my son. Mother's Day and my wife asked for "no Star Wars" today. I may need a few beers to get through not being able to work on my TK as it's getting so close now!
Jim
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Forearms and biceps done. So my plan is to NOT strap up the forearms. I met with a few troopers this last weekend who just use a fair amount of foam inside to make them snug. They then are able to take them on and off in order to adjust snaps and such. One even has a little place to keep her cell phone there! I thought this was brilliant and am totally going to copy that.
Speaking of storage can anyone share any creative things they do with car keys and such when trooping? (Other than having a handler.)
Jim
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Been a few days since last post. Here is what I've been up to:
Oh boy more trimming!
I also have been going through my older posts and fixing them on the computer. Posting from Tapatalk does some bad stuff to your thread when viewed on the computer if you're not careful!
Jim
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Looking good! I did a ton of trimming and got my arms all glued together this weekend. I'm trying to work out a majority of the "pokey" edges before installing my strapping as sanding anything once it's all together will be much trickier. I'll address "pinch points" later. I've realized that a lot of the return edges have to be trimmed even more for my comfort As they say, "It's easier to take off than put back on!"
Jim
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Totally understand. I made some wooden stands for my coworkers monitors because they moved us to smaller desks. Everyone loved them but I could see every little imperfection on each one! I finally realized that people more appreciated that I did my best to make them perfect more than the fact that they ACTUALLY were perfect. I had a hard time handing off something I felt still had some flaws but they were just excited to get them!
Maybe a good way to test what others think is get a few of theses kits into the hands of some of the subject matter experts and have them give you feedback on what they think?
I would not be a good candidate....yet, but I know there are several (that are following this thread) that are intimately familiar with just about every aspect, of real and reproduction, versions of these sights. It would also be excellent advertising to get that approval. Probably so much that you'll be overwhelmed with orders.
Jim
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I'd buy one of the "B" versions with the bubbles. I'm pretty handy and could fill those so you'd never know!.......Quality is also an issue as I had casted a few with one or two tiny air bubble holes in noticeable areas. I literally have to sit the and spin the mold by hand for 15 minutes to ensure the bubbles are kept at bay. Trying to make some device to just spin them for me but time , money and space are a problem at the moment.
I am soooo looking forward to these being ready!
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Walt's is a great choice and quick and a good price point. I'm working on a OT TK set right now. Keep in mind that it comes with all the features of some of older armor types, bumpy cap, not much symmetry, like the left arm is different from the right, etc. AND it's supposed to be that way! The screen used armor was the same. It's not an "idealized" version like a set from ANOVOS, a decent armor (from what I'm told) but not for me, I likes it authentic! He also offers it in a magma (red) version and shadow (black) version. John the group on Facebook and look at the very first "pinned" post by Erica for info on what they offer. Then directly message either Erica, Pedro, or Walt on pricing once you decide and they'll get back to you super quick.
That being said ANY armor maker listed here as "approved" are fantastic choices.
Walt's are approvable for any level of build, but because his armor is actually a blend of some of his own and some of makers that no longer produce theirs (he does have their permission and original bucks, from what I have found, after lengthy research and some speculation) he may never be on the "approved" maker list, but his armor is solid and of good quality.
Jim
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Looks awesome! I'm going with the hard hat liner myself. I like the idea of the fans being able to move the air around my head better without a block of foam obstructing the flow.
Jim M.
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Yikes! Could almost by a real one for that price!
Jim M.
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The M145 the US Army currently uses is the same way.
The little end is the objective lens. I smoked so many soldiers as they walked on to my range with it on backwards!
Jim M.
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Absolutely! White Armor has endless resources! I can't even tell you How many times I thought I had it figured out I stumble across better guidance. I think I'd purchased 3 different sizes/types of ear screws before finally landing on UKswrath's ANOVOS helmet rebuild and there was like a 20 post discussion that got me to the right ones!When in doubt, refer to the great references here and browse the Centurion approved threads.
Thanks! Between family, work and granting wishes for Make-a-Wish Oregon, time to work on this is a bit randomly sprinkled in there somewhere. I'm usually posting progress during breaks at work the day after!Great work so far Jim!
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Thanks for the feedback. I see so many variations out there. I went with what I thought looked right. Now I can get onto gluing the rest of the strips in place!Perfect arm placement, right above the elbow and right below
M38 Hollow Core Scope Project 2016 - Bulldog44
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
One of the pictures I have, it has a 7 on the side.
I'm sure that the prop mentioned was one of the ones built for all the up close shots so therefore it was assumed that it is the definitive version. I've worked on a couple movie sets and I can tell you that most props are given very little consideration other than the ones that look better are always closest to the camera.
Jim