-
Posts
519 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Media Demo
Posts posted by MoSc0ut
-
-
Not to kijack this thread, but MoSc0ut, can you reach the back of your helmet to turn your fans on/off when you're kitted up?
Barely!! When doing my EIB app last night I did notice that. If I don't have my gloves on I can squirm around and barely flick it on or if I put my left arm armor on last I can reach it no problem.
I will probably move it to the chin area.
Always learning here and thanks for pointing that out, I'd hate to steer people wrong.
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
Thanks T-Jay! I submitted for EIB last night using the Hyperfirm but when I submit my Centurion app I may just submit with the other or both. I have two small monocular's on the way to use for lenses on my scopes which will kick this up a notch. I'm also going to make some faux screws using my leather punch for the screw heads. <-- I literally had that thought on the way to work today! Since the prism has no use in these I ordered these. I like the lenses and they'll hide the guts of my scratch build.Totally agree on this. Would definitely pick your scratch-build blaster if I had to chose from these two. It looks much more real to me.
It has a 12mm eye piece lens and a 25mm objective lens and they only cost $3.18 US (each) with free shipping!
Jim - TK50899
-
Yeah, you just need to solder the switch to one of the wires. All the switch does, is break the circuit when in the off position, thus no power.
You'll be fine with this, it's easy mate
Ditto! I have way more experience with household wiring (110v). The concept is the same but when dealing with small battery powered electronics if you make a mistake you may fry a switch or circuit but not yourself!
Jim - TK50899
- 2
-
That's a great build and i think it looks better than the Hyperfirm :-)
Thank you! There are a few things that are slightly off with it and it's slightly larger than a real Sterling but I knew that going into it. I did my best to maintain the scale so it didn't look short and fat!
Truly impressive work.
Honored that you think so. Next I'd like to tackle a Sterling parts kit build. That should be a piece of cake next to this! I may also build an ESB or ROTJ with the other piece of PVC I have set aside. Not sure if my wife would agree to my sudden E-11 collection.
Jim - TK50899
-
My Hyperfirm arrived today and I quickly added the D ring to bring it up to snuff for Centurion.
Here is mine along side the Hyperfirm:
I have to say, I am pretty impressed with my skills. Being that a lot of this was my best guess, it turned out pretty good. Now I'm curious to see it next to an actual Sterling E-11 prop......
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
EIB status submitted! <fingers crossed>
Jim - TK50899
- 3
-
Name: Jim Moser
Legion ID: TK-50899
Forum Name: MoSc0ut
Garrison: Cloud City Garrison
Armor maker: Walt's Trooper Factory
Helmet Maker: Walt's Trooper Factory (Gino v2)
Blaster: Hyperfirm
Height: 5'9"
Weight: 168
Boots: Imperial Boots
Canvas Belt: Self
Hand Plates: justjoseph63
Electronics: N/A
Neck Seal: Self
Holster: ANOVOS
Front
Back
Right side
Full left
Right side detail
Left side detail
Helmet Front
Sides
Back
Hovi mic tip detail
Lens color
Ammo belt
Neck seal
Blaster right side
Blaster left side
D ring
Thermal detonator back
Holster attachment
Action shot
Cod and butt plate attachment
Interior strapping
Ab detail
Thank you for your consideration.
*note: I had my 16 year old son helping me suit up and didn't notice the TD wasn't fully seated until I saw the pictures. It does seat all the way down. If new pictures are needed I will suit up again tomorrow and take new pictures.
Jim - TK50899
- 2
-
Added the D ring to my B grade now I'm ready for my EIB submission!
I found the link I used at Home Depot. It was a cast off from where they sell the chain by the foot. It was laying in a pile of cut links. I picked it up and asked an employee of I could have it. He gave me a weird look and says, "........sure....." I was all excited and was like, "THANKS BILL!" and scurried off. He probably has or never will see someone so excited about this:
Drilled out the hole where the ring will go.
Ring installed
Painted and ready to go.
Jim - TK50899
- 4
-
Can I ask why you swapped out the Line24's? Also, how did you remove them? Seems like drilling them out would heat up and damage the ABS.
The 15mm "popper" snaps are more screen accurate and the line 24's I had kept coming undone. I feel that these are a little more secure. This is not a requirement for any level of approval just something I wanted to do.
The metal on the snaps is so soft that it doesn't create enough friction to heat up the ABS. They came right off, so fast that it startled me a bit on the first one.
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
Very nice! I'm gonna play around with mine a little tonight and see what my options are for the battery pack. I may end up doing that too (moving the pack to the front). My goal is to not have any of that visible if possible, so I may buy a battery box and go that route.
I'm definitely adding a switch also! What was the wiring set-up for that? I need to find a good thread/info that has how to wire that. You know... so I don't catch my apartment on fire and all. lol
I bought this switch at Radio Shack.
Perform surgery on the USB cable and locate the black wire.
Solder on some pig tails on the switch. Slide some heat shrink (4 pieces) to prevent shorting. Solder pig tails to exposed wires from USB cables.
Then I wrapped up the whole thing with some electrical tape (not pictured).
I also made a little tab with scrap ABS and affixed it to my bracket for the switch.
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
Look what showed up today! My Hyperfirm B Grade!
Now just a little touch up weathering and detail painting to do as well as a D-ring and some counter detail and I'll be good to go. I'll also make more detailed power cylinders......eventually.
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
I just switched my battery pack around to being in the chin area. Now my helmet doesn't ride back and I don't have to worry about the Velcro letting loose and it falling out. In this pic the battery is loose but I'll be adding a plastic bracket to hold it in place.
Also added in a switch! Now the fans aren't spinning as I don my bucket.
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
Nice job! I like the little clip you made for the battery pack. I need to figure out some good way to keep mine in place, instead of just stuffing them under the fan bracket.
That's actually a piece of the hook side Velcro that's adhered to the battery. The loop side is stuck to the inside of the helmet. However your comment has given me an idea! More to follow.....
<evil laugh!>
Jim - TK50899
- 2
-
UPDATE: So I did a small upgrade by adding a small switch. This way I can not have the fans spinning as I stick my head in my bucket.
First I made a small mounting bracket out of some scrap ABS.
...and mounted it to the fan bracket/insert.
A little surgery on the USB cable to find the negative (black) wire.
Added some short, 22 gauge, lead wires and heat shrink to the switch before attaching to the wire.
Installed. Battery now rests in the chin instead of the back bump. This helps keeps the helmet from riding back too.
Enjoy!
Jim - TK50899
-
I will definitely be doing a "how to" thread if it all works out. I have a friend, who's an electrical engineer and works for Intel, that I'll be running my crazy idea through to make sure it'll work out and not melt my bucket or blow up on my head!
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
No prob! I know exactly what you mean though. I barely have any room in there either, and it's already tight to put on also. Without the battery, it doesn't take up really enough more space to notice. I'm hoping that with the battery I am ordering, the bracket will still lay snug and that the battery will nestle in well in the curvature of the helmet.
This is the one I am ordering. Plus it's only $10 to see. If not, I have an emergency phone charger.
I bought parts to build custom USB rechargeable batteries. I'm hoping to get close to 5200mA by hooking up 2 2600mA in parallel and placing them strategically in my bucket. When all the parts arrive and I get to doing that I'll do a tutorial (once I figure it out!) I think I spent a total of $30 and I could do 4 battery setups. This should effectively double my fan run time, (2ish hours to 4ish hours.)
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
In reference to battery location a buddy of mine (goes by Daryldoak on FISD has his battery in the chin area he says that it keeps his helmet from riding back as the weight pulls a little down.
As for the hard hat liner I too purchased the cheap one, like $6 and change. It is a little more of a pain to put on an take off but the air from the fans blows around my head nicely. I don't know that a more expensive liner would be any different unless it doesn't ride as far down on the back of the head. I'm going to play with some placement ideas for my fans and see if I can name my bucket balance a little better on my noggin.
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
The blaster weighs 2.6 lbs (1.17 kg) right in the middle of my estimate.
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
Thanks for the kind words. Coming from you that means a lot. I did my best to get as close as I could with the materials I had on hand.Hi Jim, you truly did an impressive job on this scratch build. The result speaks for itself.
Glad to hear, my thread was a little help and thanks for the kudos.
Can't wait to see, what somebody talented like you is able to make from a resin kit...
Would you mind to state the weight of your finished blaster? Just curious
Some of the dimensions are slightly off as I the materials I had were either slightly to big our to small by a mm or so. I tried to maintain the scale between the blaster, scope and counter. The counter was the trickiest as I had some dimensions from a side view but couldn't find a width or length anywhere, so I eyeballed it and went for it!
I'm out of town at the moment but I will weigh it when I get home. I did do a 3 hour troop and a short parade this weekend with it and it wasn't too bad. (I am looking forward to my Hyperfirm arriving!) My estimate is that it weighs 2-3lbs, (1-1.5kg).
Jim - TK50899
-
Fast forward after some installing of rail bits and a bunch of painting which at this point it was between 2-4am and taking pictures was and after thought.
Adding the mag detent detail. A little hot glue dot and done!
This is how it all turned out:
All said and done I think if came out pretty good. It's my first blaster build but probably not my last. It is lacking some of the details vs. a real sterling but is it a completely passable E-11? I think so. Is anyone except a fellow Stormtrooper going to even know the difference? Probably not.
I had a great time building everything from scratch. I have learned so much about the details and how everything fits together. The folding stock is such a great piece of engineering. I totally could have made mine actually work if I had more time. When I do a kit it should be a piece of cake next to this!
I hope you've enjoyed following along on this brief post. I'll be doing a little more work on this, like lenses on the scope. I'll post those here when I get around to it. In the mean time feel free to ask any questions or leave a comment.
Jim - TK50899
- 7
-
Oaky so here is the rest of what I did during a 12 hour marathon to finish my blaster for and event. I may also use this for my submission photos for EIB and Centurion.
Adding those little details that sell this
Bolt, barrel and muzzle detail.
T-track time! If it wasn't already obvious, I made these too.
Building my own Hengstler. I couldn't find every dimension I needed so things like the width are my best guess. It ended up pretty close.
Jim - TK50899
-
I'd say just about the same, just a smaller package. I have a Dropbox folder that I have been keeping all my reference info in. I can share it with you but this build thread by T-Jay is a one stop shop! http://bit.ly/TJaysE-11PipeBuild
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
Holy crap, Jim! this is amazing! I didn't realize you went this much "scratch"! Very nice! How difficult was the molding and casting?
The material is expensive if you do silicone molds. When I started I thought I could get away with a 1 part mold, I was wrong but I was able to salvage the mold and it became a 2 part mold! I got lucky and I'm still learning. You tube is your friend when it comes to this stuff! Here in a bit I'll be posting the last batch of pictures. I'm putting on the last piece now. The bayonet lug. I still have to add details like the lenses on my scratch made scope, wires from the Hengstler to the power cylinders, but none of that is required for EIB and Centurion just something to make it look a little more movie accurate.
That being said this whole project on its own, I'm pretty impressed with. If you set it next to one of T-Jays E-11s it would be woefully inadequate. Only any of us would know the difference the general public would think I stole it right off the set!
Jim - TK50899
- 1
-
Here's what mine ended up looking like.Awesome. I have a box of Honey Nut Cheerios that'll be on it's way out soon.
It's attached in with Velcro and the wires are "wrangled" with pieces of gaffer tape for now. Next time I go to the hardware store I'll pick up some of those cable keepers with sticky backs that you route cable ties through or some of these:
Jim - TK50899
- 2
W.T.F. ANH Stunt build WIP
in ANH Build Threads
Posted
It is indeed quite the victory, ESPECIALLY after spending so much on armor!
As for my wife, she has always looked at me like I was crazy anyways.
I actually got her to go on a troop with me and now she sees why I put in all the time and effort into building my kit. We got in the car to drive home and she was going on and on about, "Did you see that one kids face when you handed him your blaster?!?" and "That little old lady, cancer survivor, in the wheelchair. When you guys went up and crowed around her for pictures, she was grinning from ear to ear!!!
Yep she finally gets me and it only took 17 years.
Jim - TK50899