I'm Batman

You sure it wasn't "Dave M"? I think Trooperbay has the Dave M ones

Congrats Scott!

But what's the fun in that? I just used my new saw

Awesome Brian! Well done. Get out there and start trooping. Chances are some of your local garrison take multiple blasters to events. Borrow one for the mean time. You've said yourself how long your projects sometimes blow out to. Lol!

Great looking Armor Scott. Should be an easy pass! You will need to post a photo of the other side of your blaster though, making sure you have the right holes drilled and covered with T-Track. I don't think you had got that far in your other thread....

Thanks Sly! Just to wrap up the couple of issues/suggestions from my approval. I kitted up today for a Special Kids Xmas Party troop so took a couple of extra shots. One with the belt not done up quite like a corset, which show the side seams looking a lot better, and a couple of action shots holding my Doopy blaster, instead of the Hasbro. Thanks again for everyones help along the way and congratulatory comments now. Cheers

I guess it would be a bit of trial and error. Practising until your happy. The helmet looked awesome, but that little test piece didn't seem much more that a bit of dry brushing with silver paint. I'll have a look in the local craft store though. What applications have you used it in Aaron?

Congrats Jason

I haven't heard of that. I'll go check it out. Is that just available from the paint action of hardware stores?

Armor looks great Ty. Only thing jumping out at me from a looks point of view is the uneven positioning of the thighs. I'm sure that's just how you happened to put them on that day. However, Steve might pull you up for having no cylinders on the magazine of your blaster. Good luck!

Yes, very interested, Juan. Did you tone down your weathering on your armor? It doesn't look that weathered compared to your build thread. And you bought different boots! I've never seen power cylinders angled that far out. Was that a particular screen trooper? (I know you're going for a particular look) Anyway, fantastic armor. I'm sure you won't have any issues with EIB. Well done!

Thanks mate. The 'extractor' - is that what I call the 'long' bit? I did do a little bit of scoring, tidying up the edges, but yes, I could definitely do some more. I'll have a close look at your pictures in the reference threads to look for some painting tips too.

Thanks Steve, Brian & Jim. Really appreciate the comments

Next up - the bolt. The DVH mold is quite good, especially when you compare it to other makers out there. (Pic below borrowed for the DVH for sale thread) No idea what these bits are called, so I'll say I drilled out the 'little' bit Then carved out the 'long' bit Then found something of about the right diameter - a 3" nail in this case. Cut it to size and glued it in place Close?

The video showing exactly how it works is really good. I'm wondering if most builders do put it too far forward, just so they can get the end cap off. Unfortunately I think that's what I'm going to have to do... (unless someone has a real clip they want to give me )

thanks Brian. Yep, little progress here and there. Bolt mods to come next.... Cheers Benjamin. You'll be right. Slow and steady. All depends what features you want. My build will not be any good for trooping. Too heavy to start with.... Check out Derreks own build of his kit for a (meant in the nicest ways) no frills build. He has shown how great a kit can look without all these fancy moving selector switches and folding stocks. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28139-dvh-v25-build-dday/ Start your own build thread and don't hesitate to ask as many questions as you need. As you can see, there's plenty of great builders mre than prepared to help out.

Dday's new bolts. Drilled out the holes to 5.5mm. Tried 5.0mm but they squeaked and felt a little to tight for my liking. When Derrek gets his new ones, these will just unscrew out. Easy! I did have one blow out. Just on the left corner there. Not sure what happened, other than I should hav spent that extra 2 minutes and used the drill press. Oh well, green stuff will fix that. Glued some real bits on! Epoxy and pins again I've glued the end lug on aswell. I'll have a closer look at the sizing after it sets and I grind off those pins. Ooohh, and I bought some goodies. We should all get together and have a mini-saw-off!

Nice find Brian. I mentioned to another builder , that my rotary switch was about 20x8mm so your 19x5 would certainly be do-able. It's amazing what you find in those sorts of dollar shops.

That's gotta suck . Remember, it's a bunch of white plastic, so almost anything can be repaired with a little extra ABS and glue! The delays and setback would be frustrating though...

Thanks Mathias

Thank you Steve. It's an honor to join the ranks of my fellow EIB troopers. Yes, my notches are small. I cut them whilst in the build process to the orignally quote 15x8mm (I think it was), before it was moved to Centurion only as 22x22. I'll need to have a look where I have my strapping/snaps located to see if I need to move them in a little before applying for Centurion. I'll also look to taking some updated shots with the sides not pulled in so much. Perhaps an extra burger or beer that morning will suffice. Thank you Germain. (And yes, I think the CRL is a lot less ambiguous now. I tend to read things to the letter. Sometimes too much perhaps). LOL Tim! No worries. Thank you! Cheers Glen. Glad to join the ranks. Thanks Carl!

Ian Naden 11409 EIB A4

Germain. Thanks for your explanation and diagram. As I thought.... Thanks Aaron. As you say, in my case, if I don't have a functioning clip, it will need to be a bit further forward to allow the functioning of the end cap/internal spring. Hopefully Vern won't be too hard on me. OR, I do what your suggesting, Brian is attempting and Truimphmark apparently has already done and make the clip functioning? Looking at my end lug, the bit that joins the pipe was definitely more than 40mm, but uneven, hence why I ground it down, but the rear section where the notches are, is only 40mm. That's probably where I got confused. The end cap does still function but perhaps is a little loose. I'll consider putting a thin strip of abs around the lug to pack it out again. Thanks for everyones input.

Gotcha. Thanks

Thanks Derrek - I guess that as we don't have a working lock, I'll need to rely on the spring in order to have the end cap removable and able to lock/unlock the folding stock. And thank you Germain. That picture down the bottom of that thread is what I was looking for, showing the smaller first spring and larger second spring. I think in one of Aaron's threads it shows the spring nearly at the ID of the pipe, so I'll try source something that fits (or make my own). I'm not sure if I fully understand your second point though Germain. I think a real sterling is 38.1mm and mine is 40mm, but apparently Lou designed his parts around a 40mm pipe. Derrek will possibly confirm. Everything seems to function ok (apart from the lock underneath of course. I do hope that I haven't made a mistake though. The outer circumference of the rear lock wasn't perfectly circular, so I sanded it smooth, equal to the pipe - 40mm. Still seems to function ok. Pics to come.