chadder

Hi everyone. It's Chadd "Chadder" Thomas, approved TK and Florida GML. Question for everyone: I have a TK that is asking the correct way to do shims on the sides. The CRL doesn't say how to, so I'm reaching out to you all with what you may have discussed is the right way to do it. They have used rivets, which to my knowledge would not be approvable. But again, that's why I'm asking here. Thanks everyone!

So help me clear this up. I have screenshot from ANH of a TK with Pauldron and pouches but NO pack. Is he a HWT or just a clean TD? Because THAT'S what I want to do next. If he's considered a HWT then a pack should not be required for basic approval. If he's a TD then I need to head on over to MEPD.

Trooperbay does the backpack and Pauldron. I found a sweet set of black leather ammo packs on eBay a few weeks ago for $50 from seller "angelababyrock". Only took a week from China. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh...and one more question about understanding the template above. You and gaz say the length of the pipe should be around 18.25 inches...but the template above has 8" and 8". So where do you put them together to get the 18.25 inches? Thanks a lot!

I took your suggestion Vern and went to Lowes yesterday to check out the grey coduit pipe. The 1.5" inch seems huge compared to all other blasters I've seen (or comparing it to my hasbro mod.) I measured the 1.25 pipe and its 40mm in outer diameter. Isn't that what we want?

Chadd Thomas 71012 EIB letter please! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Gazmosis (and everyone else) for your kind words. I thouroughly enjoyed the build. I think I understand what you mean about the shoulder bridges. That's one of the few things I wasn't crazy about with ATA armor - that the bridges don't go as far in on the chest as they do on some other armor. And I think by trying to move them as forward as possible it makes them look like they stick up a bit. But no velcro under there...I only used E6000 for everything. And as far as the belt, rather than put snaps all the way through the armor I glued snap plates on the front instead (that way I figured if my measurements were off a bit with the snaps I put in the canvas I could adjust the snap plates!) Hopefully soon I will be Centurion!

...And two more photos that I'm not sure are necessary for EIB but it looks like others have added them. So shall I!!

Thanks everybody! And Germain...I have a pipe build ready to start to work toward Centurion (once I'm approved here, of course!) And it looks like I may have left off two photos. Here you go:

Looking forward to joining the EIB ranks. Thanks! Armor Maker: ATA Helmet Maker: ATA Blaster Type: Hasbro mod Height: 5'11 Weight: 170 Boots: TK Boots Canvas belt: TKittle Hand plates: Trooperbay Electronics: Aker/icomm Neck Seal & Holster: Darman

I have 501st status...and now official TK approval (TK-71012)...but it won't let me request EIB status. Help... http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=16198

7 1/2 inches Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Thanks for the feedback! Next question: mic tips. Flat black or semi gloss or gloss? I found the testors spray paint that matches the gray and black paints for the bucket. Thanks! Chadder Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Let me see if I get this...I would keep Velcro on one side ridge (where it is now) but remove the velcro from the inside of the other ridge (which is how my armors previous owner did it) and instead glue one half of a 20-25 mm finishing strip to the other ridge and put Velcro on the back of the other half of finishing strip so it connects and the finishing strip looks normal and in place. Right?? Whew... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Thanks guys! Next question: Can you suggest a good link to show how the lower legs are supposed to be constructed in the back for the new centurion requirements? I inherited ATA armor that has the overlap with Velcro method. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Hey everyone, I have an ATA kit that Im going to gry for centurion. Its pretty much trimmed (thanks to ALL of your amazing builds, threads, etc) but have a couple of questions I haven't seen anywhere: 1. Thermal detanator cap width. I've seen 3/4", 7/8" and pics of screen used that look closer to 1". Anyone have the definitive answer? Also, I've read some use flat primer, some use semi-gloss. Which is most accurate? 2. Also seen photos of actual prop shins from the front (attached) that show the outside of the right calf is lower than the inside? Is this how I should trim them? Or should I make them even at the bottom? I'm sure I'll have more questions coming. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I have an ATA kit that Im going to gry for centurion. Its pretty much trimmed (thanks to ALL of your amazing builds, threads, etc) but have a couple of questions I haven't seen anywhere: 1. Thermal detanator cap width. I've seen 3/4", 7/8" and pics of screen used that look closer to 1". Anyone have the definitive answer? Also, I've read some use flat primer, some use semi-gloss. Which is most accurate? 2. Also seen photos of actual prop shins from the front (attached) that show the outside of the right calf is lower than the inside? Is this how I should trim them? Or should I make them even at the bottom? I'm sure Ill have more questions coming.

So would the ab buttons that VaderDave sells on here or the decals that trooperbay be acceptable for Centurion? And is there a specific way that the flexible hand plates need to be attached to be Centurion approved? Thanks...starting my build any day now. Chadder

Thanks NoVATie! Question: how long does it take to go into affect? In Tapa Talk all of the forum subjects come up but when I click them nothing loads. Also every post on the regular full site comes up "locked" and doesn't let me post.

501st member requesting access to forums, etc. Thanks! Chadd http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=16198&costumeID=76