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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by bzb

  1. I'm scoring each part 3-4 times. There are some parts that are indeed breaking apart when I bend. Others chip out. Not badly, but enough that I wanted to do something about it. Perhaps it's a bit of perfectionism that I don't need to have on this build - but it may save someone else's cutting. It's just something I'm going to be doing on the rest of my build and anyone else's I might help with in the future. There shouldn't be any worry about where the cuts on the opposite side are. The bend lines are pretty clear on the white ABS. See reference photos above. You can see the line that the bend created, where my blade is following. To me, it's better than getting chipout, especially near corners (which hasn't happened yet, thankfully, but *could* from the randomness that I've gotten tearout.) Interesting part to me is that no one else seems to experience this. I had a considerable amount of chipping when I was assembling tweeter arrays with ABS piezos. In that case, though, I never worried about it because the homemade ABS glue would fill in any holes and the entire thing was painted.
  2. bzb

    TK build (MTK)

    Certainly appreciate it! Your build thread is always on one of my browser tabs.
  3. bzb

    TK build (MTK)

    More trimming progress Saturday morning. I'm having trouble figuring out the left and right biceps :? Had a few issues with tearout on the codpiece, so I posted a tutorial on how I'm applying woodworking techniques to this build. Finished TD minus the brackets. Planning on working on shins tonight after I watch Winnie the Pooh for the bililonth time with my daughter.
  4. bzb

    TK build (MTK)

    Made some progress Friday night, trimming up some of the smaller pieces. Will sand and polish afterward.
  5. After many days of impatience, finally got my big brown box! Starting slicing it up late Thursday night. MTK's kit is really quite complete - I'm very impressed with the extras he includes, and also his packing skills! I thought I was good at Tetris with all my DJ gear... Height: 6'0" Weight: 165# MTK (Trooperbay) Kit Kit included: Simulated hand-painted decals, stencils for hand painting, green lens, finished mic tips, split rivets, TD parts, teeth grill, rubber trim, S trim, TD and TK knee plate Neck seal: Darman Holster: Darman E11: Hyperfirm Canvas Belt: TKittel Rubber hand guards: Sonneschein Boots: Lands End Chelsea + Angelus Paint & Finisher $95, $15 Strapping kit: Mr. NoStripes Zap-a-Gap & Zip Kicker: Trooperbay $15 E6000 clear and white: Hobby Lobby $8 Rare earth magnets: amazon (2lb force) 100-ct $13 Paints: Hobby Lobby + Amazon $10 total Aker amp 1505: amazon $42 Cana kit R009: amazon $36 for two Headphone kit: ebay $15 Motorcycle helmet padding: cannabalised old Scorpion bike helmet Helmet liner: Cycle Gear $15 Echo fan kit iComm First day's trim practice on a handguard and forearm build
  6. Oh definitely - I'm following up after the cut with the sandpaper on every piece in my build. I'm just getting to cutting up the initial pieces, and the score-and-snap method isn't working great for me. This method takes a little more time since I'm essentially scoring both sides, but it's producing way cleaner lines with less worry about a piece having to be replaced.
  7. This has probably been covered before (wow there's a lot of tips in this forum!!) but I haven't noticed it on any of the guides I've read or watched on YouTube. One of the things you become aware of when building furniture and other woodworking is called "tearout". Basically, the nice looking piece of wood you see is very, very thin. Underneath is generally plywood of various species and qualities. Needless to say, you want to see the nice wood, and avoid revealing the plywood. Well, same thing was happening to me when I was trimming my parts - especially parts that have sharp corners or turns. Tearout was occurring on the back side, which could continue on into the visible parts if you're rough when trimming. Most guys have suggested that you score a few times, and then just snap it. This generated some tearout for me: Instead, I scored, then cut relief lines at the top of the shoulder. In this photo you can see the 1" piece at the top has already been removed, since it snapped off cleanly. Then fold on the line. Some parts may snap cleanly, but mine mostly would just fold over and will not separate by bending either way. After the fold, I would unfold and run my blade along the inside edge to make a nice line. The blade follows the folded part really nicely. Then the cut piece basically just falls off when you touch it. Nice clean lines with zero tearout.
  8. The videos are great, really helpful. One thing I missed is the trimming of the torso pieces, and how they strap together with the snaps... or did I just skip over it somehow? I have a pretty good idea from looking at photos of others' builds, but video always helps!
  9. I received my kit from MTK as well. It looks great, and all the extras Mike throws in are fantastic - they'll really help the build run smoothly. Thanks for your patience with my tracking hiccups, MTK!
  10. http://antfarm.wikia.com/wiki/ScavANTger_hunt Good luck reading the synopsis, though. I don't think there is any punctuation in the entire write-up.
  11. Although I realize the seller spent a lot of time and potentially money collecting these autographs, I'm with jannick on this one. I have quite a few pieces of signed memorabilia from athletes and celebrities, but they're almost all "To Bobby" on the autographs, or there's a photo of me with them along with the piece. There's a lot of folks who just collect autographs and/or sell them. That makes sense to me, as people will buy - I just don't really understand the buyers.
  12. Confirmed you can treat it with wookie hands and not have any issues?
  13. I've been flipping on deciding whether to do my own Doopydoos or go for one of the Hyperfirms. I keep reading that the Hyperfirms will take a beating, but folks are usually referring to the larger weapons. Admittedly, I'm a bit of a klutz to begin with - no telling what will happen once I'm in my armor. Does the Hyperfirm E11 hold up better to TKs with butter gloves?
  14. Not a problem - thanks for all the information you've provided! What's your typical run time on the single 9V? I'm looking into a small-footprint 12V Li-Ion battery that has 1800mAh: the length is 6.5cm, the width is 3.8cm, the height is 1.9cm. I placed a jumper on the power since it's externally switched. Thinking of soldering up a female stereo headphone jack instead of stripping the cable with the headphones. The less of those dupont connections, the better I'll feel about it.
  15. Yeah, after shipping charge it seems to be in line with the sales that I've seen poking around here. Admittedly, I'm a clumsy oaf - so I'm likely to be looking into a Hyperfirm anyway.
  16. Will this pass Centurion? Didn't see shots down the barrel at the scope and counter...
  17. One last thing - I promise! Maybe! The electret microphone that was packaged with my kit is saying the opposite of what you've described. The pin that is connected the body of the mic is labeled as negative, according to the instructions that came with the kit. Typically, this wouldn't matter on a microphone, as long as both are wired the same in a stereo setup (otherwise you have phase issues). However, Electret microphones typically need the + and - wired correctly, as the positive is used with power in the amplification. Not sure if the assembled kit comes with these instructions or not. I did a quick test with the positive connected as instructed, and it appears to be working properly.
  18. Received my CanaKit packs yesterday - I opted for the project kit instead of the assembled one. Going to make a couple minor modifications, and exploring options for 12v rechargeable power source to get a little more amplification out of it. Mynock - I was looking at the photos from your project page, and it looks like some of the joints are borderline (solder joints look like Hershey's Kisses). Have you had any intermittent issues with yours?
  19. I grabbed four of the earpads before you bought up the rest of that guy's stock, lol! Did you make any more progress on the other boards? I immediately thought of the tiny Lepai Class-D amps I've used in some of my smaller audio projects...
  20. It's a great design sir! I appreciate the work you put into this. Thanks for the confirmation on the kit. I assume the "kit" version for $3 less is just all the parts and the circuit board? Typically, I'd want to solder project parts myself, but in this case I would probably prefer just to pay someone else $3 to do it...
  21. I was poking around on the Canakit site, and it looks like the R009 kit has changed somewhat. I have no reason to think it won't work still, but the shape looks like it might be a larger footprint. Any insight here? Also, found those Burton earpads for $7 on ebay! They're XS, but I'm OK with cutting into them, so it probably won't matter much. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Burton-Red-Snowboard-Helmet-Audex-Audio-Earpads-kit-speakers-XS-2003-2008-/380379050383?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58905bb18f Here's the R009 board now:
  22. Interesting looks like there's a consensus! Thanks all, I think I'll hit up Echo for one of those kits. I was thinking along the lines of my motorcycle helmets and how the vents are always up in the top blowing over the top of the head. But the Arai was definitely warmer than the Scorpion - the Scorpion had considerably more space below the chin for air to get in. So I guess it makes sense...
  23. I've been checking out the fan kits and I see some folks have them shooting down from the brim, and others shooting up from the chin. Anyone used both methods, and decide which they liked better? For some reason, I'm thinking I'd rather have them shooting downward toward the neck rather than up top. But maybe it's better to keep the top of the head cool?
  24. Sorry to drudge up an old thread here - but I gots teh questions! Does anyone use a combo of zap-a-gap and E6000 on their builds? MTK makes it look so quick and easy with zapagap and the spray accelerant! Yes, it's my first build, and yes, I have way too much confidence in my skills. I was planning on using E6000 on the bucket and parts that I may adjust that change with my workout schedule (biceps, thighs) and the CA with parts that I won't like the shins, forearms, detonator, etc.
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