heavyarms

I've had a few places on my TK that have developed stress cracks, I reinforced them on the backside with a couple layers of fiberglass and no longer have any issues. You dont need much just about a 3 inch strip of fiberglass weave that runs the length of the backside of the edge. The fiberglass weave/cloth is purchased from walmart or any car parts place.. cut it out, trim then put on a few coats of resin. Just be sure that you dont get any on the front (show) side of the armor.

Requesting access. TK-10500 http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=16601 thanks

My area of the country can get really hot, Especially when trooping. So I have been trying to figure out how to discreetly mount a camelbak or water bladder in the space under the back panel. Then run the hose up over my shoulder and into my helmet. Then I can keep hydrated without having to take off my helmet. Larger bladders are too big (especially when filled) to fit under the back panel, I'm considering trying this one instead and somehow mounting it in the back panel itself. -- What do you think? Has anyone tried this or does everyone just wear a normal camelbak when its really hot.

I have you beat.. I've been on the tkboots.com back order list since early June. I have everything ready, but no boots

Review this Tutorial on shaping your ammo belt. If you don't have a heat gun, a good hair dryer will work too. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8757-howto-get-a-good-heat-bend-on-your-belt/

I just wanted to reach out to the community and see how other folks have addressed armor bite's? I keep getting bit on my upper inner thigh, The code piece and the top inner part of the thigh armor will occasionally come together and grab a piece of skin. I've been adjusting the thighs in/out trying to find a happy medium. Besides making armor adjustments to fix, does anyone have other suggestions? Can adjusting the return edge help with this? So far this seems to be the only problem area for me. Feel free to post with your favorite "armor bite" area and how you fixed it (or not fixed it).

Mine showed up in the mail the day of getting the email notification from TupperwareTK. I'm happy to report that the helmet is finally completed, I'll try to post some pics over the weekend. The ears are definitely long enough now, A little wonky and I had some trouble fitting because the cutt of the helmet was based on the old ear design so it took a bit of work. In other words the cutt/riveted part of the helmet that is normally hidden by the ears was based on the old ear curve, so I spent a bunch of time trying to position the new ears just right to cover everything while still maintaining the correct angle per reference photos. Now just waiting on boots..

I think if you asked any average Star Wars fan who has watched ANH a hundred times, they would say that the Stormtrooper armor in the movie was always clean/perfect. So I believe that Armor seen/worn in public should maintain a certain level of quality in detail to match the perception of your "Average" fan. Yes, I know clean/Perfect is not cannon, While things like misfitted parts and wonky armor are easily missed in the movie they can become very obvious when seen in real life. Then folks mistake you for a scruffy-looking Nerf herder.

A big thumbs up to Ward @ Tupperware TK for correcting the issue with the ears by sending everyone a new set for free. For anyone considering buying one of Tupperware's TK kits, I would say that the kit is one of the best kits out there. These guys stand behind there product and I would not hesitate to purchase from them again. Thanks, Brett Just received this email today.. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Hello FULL Kit buyers! I wanted to let each of you know that I appreciate not only your business, but your patience. The newly sculpted, longer, hot-off-the-presses replacement helmet comm covers have shipped out to each of you. You should be receiving them in the next few days, and they will now be featured in future runs of the NE Full kit with helmet. I hope they are what you want and need to make your helmet the best it can be and remove any frustration you were feeling. PLEASE SHARE THIS INFORMATION ON FISD and with any other friends who may have been interested in ordering but hesitant because of the shorter comm covers. We work hard to make sure you have not only the best armor out there for your money, but the best support as well. We listen to your feedback - it doesn't just get lost in the black hole of email. Thank you again, everyone. ~ TupperwareTK / Ward

So I purchased one of the NE Tupperware TK kits with Helmet, Everything is finished but the ears on the Helmet fell short of expectations, So I'm looking for a set of stunt ears that are of the correct length to finish my bucket. Does anyone know where I find a new set? Thanks!

I have assembled my shins and now looking to attach the sniper plate. How did you determine what shin was left vs right? I dont see any way of determination. I have read that one is more curvy than the other but I just dont see a difference. thanks!

I had the same questions. Basically the way I did it was to go ahead and trim, glue and finish strip the raised side of each part - leaving the other side uncut. The raised side is the the "show side", for example the front of the shin, the front of the leg and arms. The back side does not have a raised edge so I kept it uncut. once that is done, I used blue painters tape to fit the part to my arms and legs. Adjusting the tape until I thought it felt right. The fitting is based on this.. Can I get it on and off? Can I move my arm/leg normally? Does it pinch or rub? Visually does the end of the part match in size and shape the part it joins to?..for example does the end of the forearm resemble the size where it meets up with the bicep. Just like trying on clothes, you will know after a few minutes if its not right. I'm 6'2" and 200 pounds. Besides height, I don't have any unusual big or small measurements. This method may not work if you have bodybuilder arms or thighs of a running back. Just take it slow, If your still not sure, mark it, then back it off a little to make it larger - you can all ways trim more off later. I hope this helps.

However we cannot find any screen references for that color toe nail polish. - - congrats trooper!

Thanks. This is for a ANH Stunt build. I have studied everything I could find and seen it done both ways. I was looking for more of a formal list. for example. Roll edges.. Bicep-top: Yes Bicep-bottom: Yes forearm-top: Yes forearm-bottom: No seems like having a roll edge on the top of the bicep would start to dig into your arm after awhile. However I may be over analyzing this..

I'm working on NE build, All of the parts came trimmed with a large roll edge remaining (except on the edges that require cover strips). When trimming and fitting the armor, On what parts should I try to keep the roll edge? What parts should the roll edge's be removed? Thanks.

So its not just me, I have been sitting here trying to figure out how the ears should be cut to fit. Just looking at them you can tell it is not long enough to reach from the temple edge down to the bottom. I'm also a little stumped at the large gap that I have between the 'front mask lower pipe section' and the 'rear pipe' section ( see pics). I can probably close much of the gap with a well placed rivet but I'm not sure if that would mess anything up. I spent allot of time studying the reference helmet photos and measuring to make sure that everything is correct, but I'm stalled on the ears and overlap issue. I see that new ears are being made to replace these, I may just need to set the helmet aside for now and start work on the rest. Any suggestions on how to tackle the gap between the face and the rear helmet sections? A rivet? thanks! ----------

You know what they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. This is a great reference, I learned more by studying those than I did from a week of combing through 'how to's' and forums. Thanks for posting all of those great pic's

I hope this will help anyone doing a NE build... particularly the area highlighted in yellow. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The first helmet build step should be attaching the dome to the rear piece. Once they are glued together, the build works very much like most other 2-part helmet builds found on the web. The rear piece fits into the recessed areas in the dome. Once you feel how they should sit in the recess, simply center it in the recesses and cement. Let this dry and cure COMPLETELY to ensure it is a strong bond that won't move around as you work with the rest of the helmet build up. Also remember when working with the front faceplate - gluing it to the dome, only glue along the CEMENT RIDGE. This leaves a small gap below for the rubber brow trim to push UP onto when it dries. See attached diagram. Remember . . . The front and back parts of the helmet are designed to overlap on the sidesso that the small nuts and bolts can be installed through both layers to hold the sides together. They are what create the visible screw-heads on the comm covers (ear pieces) that are seen in the original screen used helmets. (See attached pics) The lower edge tube on the front (faceplate) is a bit smaller than the tube in the rear piece, and this requires VERY CAREFUL and gradual trimming of the comm covers to make the transition - trim a bit more from the comm covers in the rear where the tube is bigger, and a bit less in the front where it is smaller. The comm cover will almost act like a "step" in between the two sizes. The attached pics of a Screen-Used helmet help to show this. Picture 1 shows the drill holes for the bolts. Picture 2 shows larger rear tube and smaller front and the visible screw heads on the comm covers Picture 3 shows larger rear tube and smaller front from another angle Some builders are mounting the comm covers to the helmet too low, leaving a space between the top of the comm cover and the line where the dome meets the rear piece. This space should be minimized, as seen on the screen used helmets. They have not trimmed the bottom edge of the helmet opening up enough I left extra material on the helmet bottom so builders could customize them, trim them up to make the right look and fit. When they mount the comm covers using the (untrimmed) lower edge as a guide, it's causing them to be too low. It's probably best to secure the dome to the back piece first, but I would trim the back piece for the ear covers prior to actually cementing. The face is really easy to secure, the face piece just needs to trimmed along the cementing ridges, cut just before the ridge touches the side decals recesses. If you notch out the face piece and trim it just before the cement ridge touches the side decal recesses, the face piece will sit and fit much better

that's so funny, I just unpacked that same box last night and of course I spread it out on the floor just like your picture. My wife came home from work and was like 'WTF" is that? The parts look great, It seems to have everything but the kitchen sink included (everything but instructions that is..). I figure I'll start with the bucket and go from there. The helmet comes in 3 parts not 2 so Tupper sent me a nice email with some very helpful instructions/hints on the helmet assembly, Let me know and I'll forward it on to you.