DroidHunter
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Posts posted by DroidHunter
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Really all it takes is some minor soldering and electrical tape. Has never failed me. I'll post a picture for you tonight.
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I don't know squat about electronics. That being said, I ordered a couple of these, then went to radio shack and picked up a battery pack that holds 4 AA batteries and has a 9V connection on top, a 9V connector and a toggle switch. I had a buddy solder them together for me the first time. Very easy and cheap.
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I can send you a pic later if you want.
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Suppose you have a genuine Aker MR1506 amp set up, that was not purchased through VoiceBooster. Would that still work with the iComm?
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Date of final approval into the 501st on first attempt: 2014, July 9th.
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All elastic. 1 inch for shoulder connection, 1 inch for shoulder to bicep and 2 inch for bicep to forearm. The large kitchen knife worked well. Gently rock it back and forth and pry up. Takes about 5 minutes to get 1 hook off.
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Bingo! Gave up on hobby knives and broke out a Michael Myers style kitchen knife. With a little elbow grease it came out!
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I am trying, but given the location, I can't get in there to really get under it. I may just have to cut the top off.
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On 6/8/2015 at 9:57 PM, DroidHunter said:
For the longest time I didn't bother strapping my arms. All I needed was the bicep hooks to keep the biceps in place. However, I recently decided to fully rig the arms and now the hooks are not only superfluous, but they keep grabbing my chest plate when I lift my arms. So I want to remove them. I used E6000 and don't want to damage the biceps. Good suggestions? They are not easy to get at.
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For e longest time I didn't bother strapping my arms. All I needed was the bicep hooks to keep the biceps in place. However, I recently decided to fully rig the arms and now the hooks are not only superfluous, but they keep grabbing my chest plate when I lift my arms. So I want to remove them. I used E6000 and don't want to damage the biceps. Good suggestions? They are not easy to get at.
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I'll get one out to you by the end of the day.
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Can just reach my fan on/off switch while wearing the helmet. Its place in the side of the helmet, inside the "tube" area.
Same here. Toggle switch is in tube near ear.
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Can someone refresh my memory on the current thought process for rear thigh cover strips when you have a trooper with large thighs? I know the rule of thumb used to be, if the two halves close together then keep the cover strip at 20 mm (or 25 mm) regardless of how wide the flat section is. Doesn't matter if the flat section is wider than the cover strip. Is that still true?
Second, suppose there is a gap in the back of the thigh even after leaving all of the extra flat space intact. You need a cover strip wide enough to cover the gap, and thus can deviate from the 20 mm. But how wide should the strip be? Should it be just wide enough to cover the gap, or at that point do you just extend it all the way to the edge of the flat section? My assumption would be to keep it as small as possible.
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I highly recommend buying a few extra of any rivets (split or cap) that you plan to use, and try a few practice ones on spare ABS. I broke two split rivets before I got the hang of installing them. For the price, if you haven't used them before, get a few extra of each.
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Since all is the kits can be customized to fit a range of sizes, it's hard to pin each one into acceptable chest, waist, etc measurements. So the key is that there are some kits built for body builds that differ from the 5'10" 170 lbs screen trooper. RT Mod is really for tall troopers. If all you need is a bit more roominess, consider MTK, or AM.
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I did not have to heat bend the belt to make this work. It had enough flexibility on its own.
For the holster, I used Chicago screws so that it can be removed as well.
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That's how I did mine and it works well. But a word of caution: When you measure the two side snaps, drill the holes in the ammo belt, then bend it around your waist with the canvas belt before marking off where to make the holes in the canvas. If you line it up flat, the snaps will have more preassure on them when you put it on and wrap it around your waist. I made that mistake, and while it still holds, I have had the snaps pop open and just resorted to anchoring the ends with elastic. Does that make sense? Attach the center snap, drill holes on the ends of the ammo belt, put the belt on and mark the canvas with a marker while wearing it.
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Is that a screen grab from the movie, or a stunt picture? I'm trying to discuss this issue in my garrison.
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Looking great. Nice build going on here.
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Looking good so far. That gap more than acceptable.
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Welcome to FISD and Garrison Carida. Who is your advisor?
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I saw that originally on comicbookmovie.com.
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Looking good. You can't escape that larger right forearm on the ATA kit. All of us ATA troops have it. You just have to pad it out a bit to keep it from rattling around.
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I want to check with some of the old pros here. Are the tube stripes on the correct sides?
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WANTED: Cheap option for helmet fans
in Electronics for Helmets / Blasters
Posted · Edited by gmrhodes13
link removed no longer working
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Black fan wire soldered to snap connector black wire. Red fan wire and red snap connector both to toggle switch.
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