DroidHunter
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Posts posted by DroidHunter
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I have to admit, I don't know squat about electronics, so I'm hoping somebody can walk me through this, if it is a viable option in the first place.
I'm a bit tapped out right now, so I don't have the funds to order a fan set up at present. That being said, I had an old Acer Aspire One netbook lying around that was little more than a paperweight. So I gutted it, and founf this inside:
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Its a 40 mm x 40 mm x 8 mm fan that I believe is still functional. I considered cutting off the extra material and closing the side, and then checking to see if this would work in my bucket. Based on what is printed here, can anybody tell me if this is a viable option. And if so, does anyone have a simple schematic as to how to wire this to a battery box with a toggle switch. I know I can grab a battery box and on/off switch for cheap at Radio Shack.
Thanks in advance.
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Its all up to you. Some guys buy fancy padding. Some use the padding set available in the ongoing sales thread. I've seen a few guys use the inside of cheap batting helmets. Base you decision on the helmet size, head size, comfort and/or screen accuracy. Screen accuracy troopers just use yellow foam and the clover pattern you can find listed here. I just grabbed some cheap foam from Michael's with a 50% off coupon, and taped pieces in until it fit well. Then used velcro and glue. Gives me the option to wash or simply toss out the old pieces for new ones. With the ATA lid, I had to use 1/2 inch on top and in the back, and 1 inch on the sides and forehead area. Nothing fancy.
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Thanks my friends. I cleaned up the shins last night and I'm ready to start gluing the inner shims.
Question: I know a lot of guys are using the hooks to secure the backs of the shins, but is white Velcro still acceptable, provided the outer calf piece cover strip closes over the inner piece?
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Time to get this project running. As some of you know, my kit actually arrived back in the fall and I started up what turned out to be a lengthy, picture laden thread about my helmet build. I then had to take some time away for a variety of personal reasons. But its now time to pick up with my armor build. This will be slow, but I plan to finish during the calendar year. Wish I could crank it out like many of you have, but I just can't right now. Anyway, the obligatory brown box kickoff:
Here's a couple shot of my finished bucket, inside and out:
I've also accumulated quite a few of the necessary extras:
TK boots
compression gear
black rubber gloves
neck seal (ordered)
canvas belt (ordered)
holster (ordered)
microphone and speaker (modified the cheap Radio Shack unit to go with headset I had)
Hasbro modified E-11 (needs to be fixed up a bit)
And now... on to the armor. I started doing some basic trimming of the chest, then attacked the shins. The ATA recommended cover strip sizes of 7/8 inch in the front and 1 inch in the back worked for me. Measured it about 8 times before I finally cut them down. I still need to clean them up with my Dremel, but they are cut to size. The darned left shin is tight going over the boot (as so many others have said is true of the ATA kit.) Feels good to be underway again. After I clean up the shins, I'll move on to the thighs.
I was going to ask about the non-alignment of the front of the right shin (left side above) but after looking at quite a few EIB and Centurion builds, that seems common as well. Am I correct?
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Building my ATA right now and very happy with it. Only drawback is the wait time. Good luck on the helmet build. Lots of threads on ATA helmet builds.
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No glue here with my ATA lid. Just follow the advice above and hopefully it will work out for you.
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Maybe they will re-release the e-11 that they periodically repackage and sell so we don't have to resort to ridiculous ebay sales in order to grab one.
I don't understand why you can by the Hasbro e-11 in every Disney Park store, but you can't get it online.
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Thanks to you guys for again trying to piece all of this together. I find these historical threads to be incredibly fascinating. Its too bad that every time we have a new thread on armor history, it eventually devolves into accusations and vitriol. I understand why this happens, but its still too bad.
My question is this (and please understand I am not trying to take a side or stir up any more controversy -- this is just an honest question that comes to mind having reviewed all of this): If there really was ever a question about the status of Troopermaster's armor, how is it that we get this commentary in the vetted armor list:
VETTED MAKERS
While there are many other sources for armor, the list below only contains those who have proven track records of honest business dealings, quality craftsmanship, and that are free from recast debates. You are certainly free to buy where you will, but if you vary this list we strongly encourage that you at least do your due diligence inquiring about the seller's quality and reputation before parting with your money."Country: UK
Contact: Please see info contained in for sale threads when posted.
Availability: Limited.
Kit: ABS, untrimmed, fan sculpt. Reputedly the most accurate fan sculpt. Seams on legs and arms are butt-joins with capping strips.
Availability: As slots become available, for sale threads will be posted. Kits are very limited and offered infrequently.
Comments: This is really beautiful armour and extremely movie-accurate. It comes at the price of being pretty tricky to assemble though, with potentially a long wait for supply. TM now supplies all his armour in acrylic-capped ABS. His ABS suits are incredibly glossy and, if assembled with care, look fabulous. Not for very tall troopers. Armour is more generous than SDS or AP, but not as large as RT-mod." -
Going though some of my old supplies I found some pristine pieces of white styrene that I was considering for making my inner drop boxes when the time comes. The problem is, they are pure white while my ATA armor has a creamier shade. Is it ok to have a color mismatch like that for the inner drop boxes, or would that be problematic? I'll post pics if that will help.
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No doubt it is a smaller helmet, especially with glasses. I have to start with it almost sideways and twist it down into place. That is totally normal.
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Yep. Dave M if you go the sticker route.
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I think those ears look great. I could drive a truck through my gaps and it makes me nuts, but they are no worse than some screen used ones.
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Looks great. Nice work on that lid!
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Totally normal for the ATA as far as I have seen. That's what mine looked like.
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Thanks Germain!
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Ears are a miserable pain in the you-know-what. They do look a little high, but based on the trimming you have done, lowering them will likely just add unnecessary holes to the lid. I'd grab a new pair. Sorry brother.
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Agree with the others. Take more off of the teeth. Use that file and just keep knocking down the edges. Looking good so far!
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I know I've seen it. I Thought I even bookmarked it. And nothing good coming up via the search function. Would someone be kind enough to list yet again, the location of where to leave return edges? Or copy me on a post that has it listed? I keep striking out in my search. Thank you my friends.
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When you trim the cap/back of the helmet, be very conservative. The ATA helmet is on the smaller side (you will probably have to put it on sideways and twist when it is fully built) but it is a good looking helmet. Myself and a number of others have recently completed threads on putting it together so check 'em out. If you trim right up to the mold line, you will have troubles putting it together. Don't worry about the unfinished look of the edges as they will be under the ears. Follow Panda's thread and look to some of the other recent builds for advice. There are many of us who cane help you out with questions. Good luck!
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Thanks Keith. Never thought of that solution.
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I love the weathering job on the armor and the helmet! Very nice.
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This thread has gotten long, so as I actually start my armor build, I am going to start a brand new, less cluttered thread. This post will conclude my helmet build -- although I end with a question. (BTW Germain, I painted the darned screws!) I spent some time messing with some foam I grabbed at the hobby store and found a configuration that works well for my kit and my head. The pieces are just taped in right now. I was going to use velcro, but I'm not sure how to attach the velcro to the foam. Any suggestions. Can't find any good posts on this.
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I used a 50/50 mix of the gloss and the flat black. I think the suggested ratio is more of a 2 parts gloss to 1 part flat, but the 50/50 worked well for me on the mic tips and vocoder.
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I used the flat primer and then hit it with a coat of satin gloss clear coat that I had laying around for the detonator. And I went with closer to 7/8 inch on the end caps.
TK-71012 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB status [ATA][366]
in Request Expert Infantry Status
Posted
Good luck! Let's see, We are the same height, same weight, same kit, same blaster, same belt, same neck seal. Hope my build comes out as nice as yours!