Luke S

I received my power cylinders. All I can say is.....OUTSTANDING!!!!<br><br> Anyone looking for accurate power cylinders for their E-11 will be more than pleased. Great pride, Uber fast shipping and high end quality. They look great on my Sterling. You'd swear the metalmites were vintage. <br><br> Thanks for offering this great product. It was a perfect way to finish off my all vintage E-11.

I just ordered some "A" cylinders on your eBay store. I can't wait to get them. They'll look awesome on my all vintage Sterling. <br><br> Thank you.

No mic for us. Maybe next year. This is totally not accurate but my son got some FOTK sneakers from Walmart. They look ok. I agree on the amount of work. It's not for the weak hearted.

I've found that a 1/4" wood chisel works great at taking out all the interior ribs. Dremels just melt the plastic and make a huge mess. If I were to build another one I would just use a utility knife and my wood chisel. No matter what you use, it's a ton of work.<br><br> When using the chisel, I worked the blade flipped upside down. Using it the correct way it tended to bite a bit too much and make gouges. Flipped it was easier to manage and control.

That seems to make sense. I read all of the discussion on which went where and it only made things worse. LOL. I was trying to make the two with the hard return up edge match.&lt;br&gt;<br><br> Thanks again.<br><br><br> The left leg is really wide and seems deformed quite a bit compared to the right. <br><br> My numbers definitely did match your numbers. Right now as wearing it from left to right I have what I've renumbered as 27, 24, 25, 28. Two of my numbers matched yours. <br><br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/81aa2e75f0683d5fa9d50d362de75d5c_zpsjfurq7zz.jpg'>http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/81aa2e75f0683d5fa9d50d362de75d5c_zpsjfurq7zz.jpg</a>

For some reason the direct link on FB is not working. The link in the post works fine though.

First I will state that I realize there's a huge discussion on which shin goes with which. I'm not looking to start that debate.<br><br><br> I want to confirm which I have. Mine are numbered but I'm not sure they're numbered like Tony's. <br><br><br> The shins on the left with not painters tape have a hard return line while the shins on the right have little to no return edge. <br><br><br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/cfea2d19dff553a7dc2ef2c437ae3a52_zpsbdbctdat.jpg%27' class="bbc_url" title="External link">http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/cfea2d19dff553a7dc2ef2c437ae3a52_zpsbdbctdat.jpg'>http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/cfea2d19dff553a7dc2ef2c437ae3a52_zpsbdbctdat.jpg</a></a><br><br><br> The other issue I have is that in what I think matches UKS 24, I have zero return line on the lower half of the shin. I measure out 10 mm from what appears to be the edge but I get a curved line that wants to take off 1/2" or more.

Thanks for the answers. I just ordered all on your list E_Palpatine. Thanks for the links.

Thanks for the answers. I just ordered all on your list E_Palpatine. Thanks for the links.

This sounds like a dumb question and I must be missing something. <br><br> On line 7 of the parts list are snaps from Tandy or fasnap. Tandys are over $60 (yikes!)while fastsnap is only around $20. The link to fasnap has several size options for the Line 24 snaps. Which ones are the correct size as none correlate to the sizes in the Tandy link?

Some of your local 501st or RL members might be doctors (I know a couple) or even airline pilots.

Excellent. That's kind of where I was headed with a finger width clearance. <br><br> Thank you for such an excellent tutorial for us first timers. I've built cusotm lightsabers (Imperial Royal Arms), a Jedi costume for the RL, as well as other props but this is my first armor build and it's a little daunting. I just downloaded your 214? Page tutorial and will have it sitting on my bench as I go. Thank you for your contribution to us first timers.

I've been watching this thread since it started and I'm currently in the ordering stage for the "blue" items and getting ready to start my build for a 10/31 completion.<br><br> When sizing parts like forearms, shins, thighs, etc., what are you guys using as a gauge to fit your body size? IOW, what type of clearance works best? I'm guessing just a slight loose fit? Would a finger clearance when installed be a rough gauge?<br><br> I'm 5' 8" and around 180 but losing weight and doing Insanity that should put me back to my normal weight of 160-165 before Halloween and my 501st application.

Thanks for the comparison Brandon. Not ever owning armor, and just seeing it while I do RL combined events with my local Garrison, I had nothing to compare it to. It's looking like I might just follow ukswath's tutorial and mod it up a bit.<br><br> Thanks to all that responded.

I've been a Legion member for years. Although I've read, researched and dreamed of being a TK for years, I'm still new to armor. I'd read that the helmet armor was too thin and noticed that the faceplate was very thin and easily flexed. One big concern was longevity with trooping. <br><br> The others were just the issues previously mentioned.<br><br> I'm holding off doing any modding or even trimming until a few of the seasoned guys have done theirs so I can have a good knowledge base with the Anovos armor before starting mine. I don't want to screw anything up.<br><br> My initial thought, if the helmet was that bad, was to sell it on eBay then use the funds to pick up a more quality helmet. <br><br> You guys know best, so I'm open to options.

I've been an FISD member for many years and finally pulled the plug with the Anovos sale. I've read all of the armor threads.<br><br> In your opinion......<br><br> If the Anovos crowd wanted a better bucket what is the best option? Now I'm not looking for a which bucket is better than discussion. My question pertains to matching a bucket specifically to the Anovos armor. I saw one review where the armor color was not a brilliant white compared to another maker.<br><br> I'm looking for answers from our experienced builders that can compare armor.<br><br> Some of my reasons for seeking an upgrade are:<br><br> The very thin material used on the faceplate.<br> Wanting the hero helmet.<br> Better frown.<br> Being able to start with a better base to avoid switching things like hovi, ears, frown, stripping and repainting tube stripes or decals that were misaligned on the Anovos.<br><br> Your experience is much appreciated.

For those keeping track. <br><br><br> Tail end of tier two. <br><br> FedEx tracking today.<br> Shipped 1/28/2016<br><br> I ordered a day or two before the end of tier two.

Was this ever an option? I never saw it listed anywhere.

Personally? I wouldn't do anything until you see an official FISD thread pop up. Fortunately, I'm in tier 2 which is March shipping. I won't have to wait when I get mine. I wouldn't do a thing until you see what the options and restrictions are. It's easy to make mistakes that are costly. Wait for and listen to the experienced pros.

Exactly. And I never liked the high brow. The low brow looks more menacing.

The only thing that bothers me is the high brow. The only things I will mod are what's specifically required per 501st standards.

Any updates at all from the Hong Kong garrison?

Is the brow hard fixed or is it easily removed to be lowered to the classic hero look?

Glad to hear an update Andy. I'm sorry to hear your health has been hijacking your life. That's never fun. Hopefully your health starts to improve in 2016. <br><br> I'm still on your list for a kit this winter, but I'm in no rush. Take care of yourself first. We will always be here.