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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by Troopacoola

  1. Another little diagram... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  2. The mag was just a case of selecting the length I wanted and cutting. Once happy with the length the side clip was then installed into the correct position to stop the mag going any further into the housing. The end cap was fitted with the release button (5mm LED to you and me!) and then glued onto the magazine. The mag housing can be easily converted to have a working release. I would recommend that if this was a task others wanted to undertake that this be done after sanding to fit the receiver, but before fitting it to the main body. Here is a quick demo of the working release... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  3. Onto the cylinders. First off is to drill a small hole in each of the resistors. Crimping the end of the resistor wire and adding a dab of C/A glue will hold these in place. The length of the wire will be trimmed later. With the resistors glued in place the next port of call is the actual cylinders. Each cap had a hole drilled through and the respective nuts and bolts fitted. Again, C/A glue will hold these in position. With Three holes drilled in the plate for the resistor wire I began to fit the cylinders. Glue one end of the caps onto its cylinder and thread the Cylinder through the hole in the mounting plate. Fixed in place by adding a tad of adhesive to the mounting arm at the front and a dab underneath the cylinder where it meets the mounting plate. I fit the resistors and thread the wire through the 3 holes in the mounting plate. Once I was happy, I trimmed of the excess wire. At the rear, I shaped the 2 resistor wires and clipped off the third and then removed any excess. The red cord was then added. Another dab of C/A glue and some heat to seal the cord and we are done. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  4. All parts were glued in place and any gaps filled with.....Erm....Filler! Quick note: Ensure that the front sight guard, and rear sight are facing the correct direction! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  5. Regarding the resin components being fitted to the receiver, the easiest way to get a nice fit is to wrap some sand paper around the receiver and sand back the resin on these parts to make a nice contact with the camber of the blaster. I also drilled out the resin hex bolt in the front sight and replaced it with the metal one. Here is a list of all components that were sanded using this method: Front sight Front sight guard Bayonet lug Flash guards Mag housing Trigger assembly Rear sight Rear cap release housing Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  6. As you can see the front muzzle does not have the resin hex bolts as a part of the cast. Once fitted to the barrel metal bolts will be added. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  7. Drop me a PM[emoji846] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  8. Here is a quick diagram of how the locking system for the stock works. I would replace the ABS posts for aluminium if I were to make this functional. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  9. Following on from that, the front ABS post was inserted through the handle, leaf spring and clip. With the stock pretty much done it will be fitted later in the build. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  10. There is a tiny clip which fits inside the front hinge of the arm. This is what forces the internal post to move backwards in the real stock to unclip the stock from the main body. Although this is not required to function. However, it is still a big detail of the front of the blaster. I have dry fitted it without the handle so you can see the set-up. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  11. I dry fitted the leaf spring inside the handle. The rear of the arm was then fitted into the wishbone using some ABS tubing. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  12. First off was to drill out the rear of the wishbone to accommodate small dowels which will be glued in place during the final installation. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  13. Ok, moving on to the stock. Although the stock can be functional. In this example I am building this to remain static. Once again, the excess material has been removed. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  14. Once cured the front assembly could then be installed using C/A glue. Simples! You could also tint the lenses by using Uhu glue to stick a small piece of acetate to thew inside. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  15. It was then time to add the rear lens and ring to the main body. Once again using Uhu meant that the lens would not "fog up" as it would usually do if using C/A (Super) glue. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  16. The front internal lens assembly was then fitted and stuck in place using........Yes, you guessed it......Uhu! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  17. Next up was to mount the front lens to the lens mounting cap which will sit inside the front scope assembly. Using a dab of Uhu around the outside of the lens. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  18. So, let's start with the scope. I removed any excess resin which was a result of the casting process. I also drilled out the resin bolts and replace them with the metal ones. ] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  19. Me again! I have separated all the components into bags to save searching for specific parts when making up each individual assembly. (attach x1 pic of bagged up kit and x1 unbagged) Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  20. Hello! Being inspired by Brian's amazing thread I thought I would begin a thread on building my relatively new ANH JMC-E11 Let's begin erm.....At the beginning! I fell into creating my own blaster by accident TBH. At the time, I was trooping with my trusty Doopy blaster. But, with age getting the better of me I found that towards the end of a long day's troop I was getting more and more pain in my elbow from carrying the resin E-11. It was then I decided I needed a lighter option. I bought my first (and only) 3D printed E-11 kit. Soon enough I realised why I had avoided working with 3D prints. The sanding ( along with the detail affected by the print layers ) were just so much work. Comparing the print to my Doopy blaster made me realise just how "off" some of the printed parts were. I decided I could do a better job building one from scratch using the excellent templates available out there. A friend of mine makes the receiver tubes from aluminium so I could reduce most of the weight with just this single part. I also decided that I would like my blaster to be able to comfortably accommodate electronics without the need to grind out solid resin parts. This meant that I would need to make hollow resin casts which in turn would reduce weight and leave as much space internally as possible. As time went by, I sourced a few original parts which I could not scratch build. Things such as the Sterling Grip, the counter, and scope. I also wanted to add a more detailed stock, so I got purchased one of those too and took it apart to cast. It then got to the point where I wanted 100% accuracy. I was lucky enough to come across an original sterling which was to form the backbone of my new blaster. Which meant I could ditch my scratch-built parts such as mag, mag housing, trigger housing etc, etc, etc. Making casts from an original is not for the faint hearted let me tell you! Saying that, I was soon to get my hands on a second L2A3 which is solely for display purposes! Well, there is a little history to the ANH JMC E-11. Now, let's move on to the kit itself. The entire blaster is made up of 75 individual parts which consist of aluminium and resin hollow casts. It has replacement screws, nuts, bolts and springs which will replace the resin ones. Wires, cord and Spring have also been sourced, along with the scope lenses and material to make the counter lens. You can see in the pics below a full listing of the parts which go into making the JMC E-11. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  21. Yeah, people think the resin stock would be super fragile. But, they are stronger than you think. I always say whith my kits that they are cast so as they are functional but they're cast in this way for a more accurate detail rather than to be used all of the time. They are a nice part of the replica to be able to play with though. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  22. Lovely work Brian! As always! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  23. Not sure with the remote system mate. I have an older Tramp, which is amazing BTW. Drop paul a pm with any questions[emoji106] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  24. If you do select to have chatter on you will not get the static bursts when you speak. Easy fix is to disable chatter and have a loop running via a cheap mp3 player plugged into the aux socket on the amp running the chatter. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  25. I don't use a remote. Just the basic Tramp unit Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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