SamJ

If anything I'd say it was too dark after painting my snowtrooper. I mixed it for a long time too so it definitely is the paint colour and not me.

4723 requesting access http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=12601 Thanks

Wow, that's great. You can even see the 'mesh' over the front of the scope. Thanks for the piccy.

Thanks John. I guess I'll use clear acrylic then, which is great as I have loads of it.

I've just received a hyperfirm ROTJ blaster and would like to put some plastic in for the lens. Does anyone know if there was lens material in the ROTJ blasters? If so what does it look like?

There is a bit more on this kit here. As said by others stick to the list. From what I've seen unless it is a found part, like a M38 scope, eBay is not the way to go.

Whilst I have a M32 in a drawer I would never put it on a trooping blaster. However, I'd like to use a resin casting and put the real one on a Sterling when my wallet recovers a bit.

Yep, the EIB requirements I read just state 'correct style scope' and seeing as I'm torn between TK and CC for my next costume build and need an ANH blaster so thought there was no harm in asking what that actually encompassed. I understand why I need wires, cylinders and a counter as this way there is nothing 'missing'. However, regardless of which scope I use nothing would be missing and I much prefer the M19 to the M38 and both are correct. Did I just answer my own question...?

Here we go...M19 on the left, M38 on the right...I think.

According to parts of Star Wars an M19/32 was used on the Tantive IV blasters. I'm sure I can find a screen cap of it somewhere...

I was wondering if a M19 would be suitable for a ANH EIB blaster? It was seen on the Tantive IV and the blaster apparently has all the other EIB requirements but I was unsure of whether the correct style scope encompassed this as well as the 1942 M38. Thanks

Honestly I would avoid that. .60 gauge styrene is quite thin and its lack of rubber content will probably make it more likely to break. That coupled with the time of year means you'll be paying an awful lot for it. The seller also has low feedback so that would be 3 alarm bells ringing for me. If I were you I would be looking here for better quality armour.

Thanks for all the ideas guys. Was planning to do stunt and hero ESB style blasters over the next month or so with a M32 (to complement a TS) and then the Sandtrooper version with the 1943 M38...the 1942 M38 still eludes me though as does a Hengstler socket so full ANH will have to wait for now. Don't know why just like making my own bits even though it's actually more expensive.

Thanks Terry, guess this is going to be my main project in a few weeks time, TI and TS should be done by then. I was after more of a reticule anyway. Just snagged an M32 and have an M38 from a while back. Ooooh the possibilities...

Ok, I'm assuming given the size of an M38 it would be possible to give it some sort of electronic sight with any cables running under the scope rail to a power source in the body of the E11. So I was wondering if anyone has tried this. If not I may give it a shot once I'm back at uni just to see. I keep looking at my real scopes thinking of the possibilities that there may be with a cast of one and this just came across my mind.

Thanks a lot Vern, seriously. You've been a great help to me when it's come to explaining parts. Makes me want to build something white next (well after the white TS).

Ok, I got my 1943 M38 scope today. Unfortunately I don't have a clue as to how to get this off the mount so I can actually mount it on a blaster. I know I have to undo the screws but I can't get at them at the minute, So could someone please tell me how? Thanks

Great post Vern. I love the way it locks in to the barrel. I think you speak for a lot of us when you talk about guesswork. I don't suppose you could get a pic of the way the lock near the endcap works though. I can't seem to work it out.

That's what I was thinking, was hoping someone here would pop up and say that it was them as I won't have a clearable costume for a couple more weeks so I can't ask over there.

I looking around eBay and came across these ROTJ blaster greeblies. Anyone know who this guy is? I'm very wary about buying anything like this off eBay.

Thanks Jesse, nice lid . I do plan on painting both the inside of the helmet and any of my own pieces but I wouldn't have an issue using pigments as part of the casting process. I'd like to do something like the Riddell helmets to the interiors. So I was thinking of casting foam padding in a dark grey then putting in small resin pieces around the frown, ears etc. I've managed to pick up a spare face plate to use as an armature and to make sure everything is going to fit. I was going to cover the joins with padding and/or greeblies. As for an adhesive would E6000 work providing I used it sparingly?

Should I ever need to take my helmet off, for whatever reason, I'm planning on making a more interesting series of padding and electronics enclosures. I want to use ----for the areas which will need padding, polyurethane resin for the finer details and I've found some rigid HDPE mesh to make fan enclosures out of. Problem is I'm pretty new to the ABS game. I don't even know if this will adhere to ABS without distorting it let alone what to use to get the best adhesion between the two surfaces. Could anyone help me out here? I really want to do this but don't want to ruin my helmets. Thanks

Thanks for all the help guys. I should have probably made my goals clearer. I really am not that concerned with screen accuracy here. I have a Pugman ESB blaster on its way so that will deal with all my screen accuracy urges and then some. However, I've recently managed to pick up a Sterling Mk.4 stock so want to make an ESB style blaster that has greater functionality to the point were I'd even like to make a removable mag etc. I'm not too keen in spraying casings all over the public mind you. I'm going to try to pick up some books over the weekend to get some better pictures then work on some quick sketches, which I'll post up for comments if anything is different or I'm not too sure on a feature. Thanks again.

I’m about to start work on a pipe built blaster but want to make it as believable as possible. By this I mean as if it came out of the Star Wars galaxy rather than being made of parts from our own. As such I was wondering which part does what on the Sterling SMG. I believe the mag release button is behind the mag housing but what does the button next to the word 'off' on the end of the magazine itself do? Why does the grip say free and lock? What does A, R and S stand for on the selector? Furthermore, if I were to remove the English lettering from my blaster and, for instance, stamp the Blastech logo on it would it still be clearable and if so would this be to EIB standard assuming everything else was correct?

I too was looking in to this recently. UKG was a great help to me but so were the guys at Relics militaria they ship internationally too and will be able to help you with any legal queries you may have. I heard they do sometimes have some Sterling parts.