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dashrazor

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Posts posted by dashrazor

  1. my ata ears did the same thing :D i think it took a few tries to get them to fit. but this is what i did. i removed the bottom screw and put some plumbers goop on the inside edges of the ears. then i clamped them like this

    GfYGB5W.jpg

    after a few hours of drying i had to re-drill the bottom screw holes, but then they fit perfectly

     

    i also put some hot glue under the ear to reinforce the area around the bottom screw

    t47B2zi.jpg

  2. Thank you dashrazor for your answer.

     

    I'll try to find some model colors ;)

     

    I just look at the site you gave me but the price seems to be $28. Is it cheaper if we ask for a red one ? (the site shows only black, white and orange ones).

     

    yes red is cheaper because it is not as popular :D supply and demand i guess. just send an email they make a nice red pauldron

     

    DSC01486.jpg

     

    also remember to prep the areas to be painted before you paint ;) i wash with soap and water, rinse, sand the area with 400 grit sandpaper. then use spray primer, if you dont do this, the paint will just fall off eventually :wacko:

     

    also automotive paint is very good... but remember to test any paints you use on a scrap piece of plastic first... some chemicals can react badly with plastics

  3. great!! another ICN :D

     

    i used cardinal red acrylic craft paint (there are no hobby stores in my area for model paints)

     

    DSC01497.jpg

     

    it was a little too light so i mixed in a little black to darken it. but i think your armor is ABS so i would use model paints if you can find them

     

    i wouldn't use a brush personally, but i used a small hobby airbrush to apply the red markings on the helmet and it worked good.

     

    as for the deflector box issue i already asked the same thing lol :D read all the other threads in this subject

     

    as for the pauldron.. i tried to make one but i cant sew to save my life, so i bought a custom red one HERE it was only 18$ us, (just email the site and ask for a red one) and i modified it to look more accurate (see my easy pauldron mod thread)

     

    welcome aboard :P

  4. Dash,

     

    I hope you don't think I was doubting your advice. Seriously!

     

    I was just pointing out that the 9v Battery + 12VDC fan is pretty common to see. Just because it's common doesn't make it right, or safe. Heck have a look on eBay right now there are at least 2 different units up for sale - one looks very similar to a set-up seen on this board (except it's being sold from the UK) and the looks like a fire waiting to happen.

     

    I've already done a plan for a new fan set-up with your words of wisdom in mind. As you say the suits cost a lot and I, like you, am not willing to risk that 'investment' for saving a few bucks.

     

    Again thanks for the informative response and setting me off in the right direction, and I look forward to your video.

     

    all the best,

     

    matt.

     

     

     

    oh no lol.. i just noticed the possible problem and just gave advice based on what i have learned over the years, if down the road something happened your helmet, i would have felt guilty for not telling you my opinion.

     

    better safe than sorry... :)

     

    mason

  5. didn't the search terms work differently in the past?

     

    were there changes to reduce redundant results?

     

    i noticed since the new imperial academy site was updated that my google trick no longer works as good either :(. it is trying to search the new site as well as the forums (since they share a domain). also it searches old outated sale threads... im no expert but would think it is a indexing issue, but from what i remember those can be very hard to fix

  6. I guess each to his own. I've worn front and back not split and I've worn front and back both split. Give me front and back both split anyday. I, for one, can tell a big difference.

     

    that's what i was thinking would be most practical and functional myself, as i would imagine it would allow for more freedom of movement. i think the game animators took this into account when creating the computer models, if the parts were one piece (in the game) the troopers movements would look more stiff and robotic than human, thus taking away from the realism and fluid human mobility. i am hoping to achieve EIB status (im a bit of a perfectionist :D ), but i have always had (and will always have) a tendency to put functional/practical before "screen" accuracy. i think Daetrin hit it spot on by saying it is the intent of the design rather than it's implementation. take for instance the E11-blaster, it was not intended to be a 9mm sub machine gun made by sterling arms. it was intended to be a imperial laser blaster made by Blastech.... so then a deactivated sterling with original markings would be less accurate than a blaster with the blastech logo or no markings at all? well IMHO yes! but then again in the case of the E11 functionality won out over artistic rendition or intention. it was far more practical to take a "real" functional weapon and cosmetically modify it on the outside while retaining its blank firing ability for realism and special effects, rather than scratch building a completely fantasy laser blaster from an artists imagination ... in a perfect world the artists ideas would overtake the practical application of a studio prop. in science the word accuracy has great meaning, but in any form of art the word accuracy is relative.....

     

     

    sorry to ramble on so much but i got some alcohol for my birthday lol :pint1: it tends to make me over-think things.....

  7. i have no doubt that a 12v fan would run on a 9v battery.. but suggesting you use cheap batteries to prevent overheating is laughable. i am no expert on helmet fans by any means.. heck my helmet doesn't even have one yet... :P but i have been working with diy electronics since i was about 10 yrs old.. and i know for a fact that running any DC motor at lower than specified voltages will cause it to run slower and burn out faster than normal.

     

    there are several applications that correct voltages are not critical, say for instance some audio amplifiers that runs on 5 or6 volts will function perfect with a 9v battery.. but many circuits of this kind have integrated voltage regulation, a motor or fan does not have this..

     

    like i said before this is only my opinion, but i think of it like this. i have invested a lot of time and money into my armor, and i am trying to save as much money as i can (my budget is almost gone :() but if you or someone you know has kids you know how much batteries cost. i would rather spend a bit more on higher quality fans and run them off the specified voltages. not only for more efficient power usage, i think i would cry if battery acid melted my helmet ;)

     

    and i were to make a tutorial on helmet fans that use 12v fans with 9v batteries i would put up a disclaimer stating that running fans with lower than specified voltages "MAY" cause adverse effects..

     

    there are probably 10s of thousands of different types of 12v fans but the amount of amperage they require can differ greatly from fan to fan some may be fine while others could cause an explosion in time. and someone inexperienced with electronics may just grab any 12v fan without taking this into account.

     

    i think ill put up a video of a high amperage 12v fan hooked a 9v battery if i have time, i think it would be a good deterrent from anyone doing this :0Lighten: also i like to blow stuff up lol

  8. i took out the foam lining from an old hokey mask i got at a yard sale and glued it into the helmet with plumbers goop (i also may use the helmet strap from this also)

    DSC01467.jpgDSC01490.jpgDSC01491.jpg

    fits perfect and is really comfortable...

     

    then i installed Smittys awesome mic tips :D

    DSC01492.jpg

     

    doing the final sanding and trimming was taking forever with a dremel :( and the dremel (no matter how good your skills are) is prone to kickback and slipping.. so i decided to take a gamble and try my bench belt sander :o i was a but reluctant at first, but using the drum end it was super easy to trim/sand in one easy step, i used an extremely worn out belt so it removes the excess plastic slowly and precisely. i am in a bit of a time crunch on this build because my cousins 10yr old son son having a birthday soon and him and his brother are super crazy about Star Wars .. i sure to give them one big surprise since they have never seen a real life star wars character before.. :) enough rambling on... i hope to start priming and painting some parts today if all goes well

     

     

    here is a video of me trimming with a craftman belt sander (my daughter filmed it so the camera work is a bit wonky)

  9. Fascinating. It's hard to say, also in that for ANH/ESB the split is below the butt.

     

    The LMO (Legion Membership Officer) has indicated that he sides with the artist's renders rather than screen caps, as that is the intent of the design rather than it's implementation.

     

    I'll see if I can't get ahold of the render - I have one for the Commander and at least from what I see it's clearly modeled on ROTJ and thus no splits.

     

    i agree, and it was my intention to go 100% RTOJ style, but i only have my ps3 and wii versions of the game for reference, so when i noticed the armor was splitting when in action i was afraid if i joined the back/but plates it would be incorrect.

     

    on another note, i noticed the ROTJ style edge trim/molding is visible around the upper armor sections (back and chest plates) but it doesn't appear on the cod or but/kidney sections.

     

    just thought that was strange ;)

     

    its like an ESB/ANH+ROTJ hybrid armor :D

     

    a artist render would be awsome!!!

  10. if i follow the rtoj style for the armor minus the arms/legs should i join the back/butt piece? or keep them split? in the screen caps the cod and but pieces appear to be split along the belt line, but if i follow the crl for ROTJ "should haves" i should join them... i was planning on joining them, as i think it will look better with the white trim molding....

     

    just want to be sure before i continue ;)

  11. i got my custom red pauldron from TK boots and i have to say it is very nice.. but unfortunately i have to hack it up to make it look more like the pauldron in the game ;) bending it without modding is nearly imposable i tried everything i could think of... so i traced the pauldron onto a piece of sheet metal

    GD2Wrzb.jpg

    i was then able to figure out the ideal places to make my cuts without them being noticeable...

     

    first i removed the velcro straps by drilling out the rivets, then i made 2 cuts on each side whre the old rivet holes were (i cut about 1/4 inch beyond the old holes)

    sQFbgvb.jpg

    then i bent the pauldron down and hot glued it in place

    Jd4beIj.jpg

    after i drilled new rivet holes and put screws in to hold on the velcro straps (this also covers up the cuts ;))

    CMbEc2B.jpg

    after that i made a slit in the fabric on the back side of the pauldron (it is glued a bit but soaking in hot water will fix that). i took an old yogurt container and cut a piece out and inserted it between the layers to give the curved look.

    7TnNEvB.jpgwtxmnfW.jpg

    then i just put black duct tape over the cut and done :D

    ziFLnwD.jpg

     

  12. On 6/10/2010 at 6:30 AM, ELP said:

    dash,

     

    Thanks for the input. I spoke with the guys who run the place and after explaining what I was going to do and why I wanted to do it this is what they suggested.----------

     

    I'll e-mail them again and bring up your specific points and see what their reply is, and post a follow up.

     

    Thank goodness I put up the disclaimer.

     

    matt.

     

     

    hey, they may tell you it will work fine. but there is no way i would put that in my helmet. nor would i ever use a 9v battery for any high current application. i would consider using a 9v for a sound circuit, but never a motor or fan. 9v batteries are quite pricey and wear out quickly witch is why most childrens toys (like cars and such) or cameras run on AA or AAA batteries... there just more efficient.

     

    also remember "you get what you pay for" :D

  13. ive noticed that also, i find my self sifting through the posts one by one to find what i am looking for :blink:

     

    but i use this method sometimes and it works better for me most of the time

     

    i use google advanced search, just type whitearmor.net into the "Search within a site or domain"box

     

    http://www.google.co...ed_search?hl=en

     

    i tested with the terms you were searching for and it had a few results ( don't know if its exactly what your looking for though) you can narrow it down by using exact phrases also

     

     

    search1.jpg

    search2.jpg

     

    this is what do anyway :D it gets much better results imho, you can also use the exact phrase box to search for genral topics like just ATA,TM,AP ect...

     

    i know its a pain but hey,, it works ;) and search spellchecker is a bonus

  14. good price, but if i were you i would use 2x 5v fans wired in parallel run of some AA batteries, the fan draws 70ma at 12v to achieve full power. The 12v motor will draw more current than the 9v battery can supply and the undervoltage will cause the motor to run hotter than normal thus shorting its usefull life

     

    a typical brand new 9v battery has 500 mah so it should run a few hours tops 10 (in theory) if you use really good industrial batteries

     

    also bear in mind that under heavy loads 9V batteries usually drop there voltage to about 7.5 volts and

    After a while, the battery will heat up and eventually may explode. i recommend against doing this! unless you use a 12v rechargeable battery to bring the voltage up to the proper 12v DC

     

    just my opinion :D

  15. ive sold a few blasters and i have to say there is not a whole lot of profit to be made (at least the way i build) after various purchasing dremel bits, sanding belts, disks,paint,primer,electronics,scopes,metal,and other bits (not to mention a giant electric bill) even using a lot of recycled materials, on average i figured i am building for between 2-3$ an hour. not to mention i offer a lifetime of service and support on everything i make. if i had a way to make them faster/cheaper and mass produce, i could probably make a good profit, but i enjoy scratch building so it would take away the fun :D i guess it depends on the maker and there methods/product on what they charge. i know ive seen some things on fleabay that are way overpriced and poor quality. and i am always looking for cheaper trooper supplies so if you know something, let it out :D im broke lol

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