Locitus

I used to remove the clamps and stuff after around 8-12 hours (depending on what I did during the day, often I left it over night and removed the clams when I got home from work) and by then E-6000 was strong enough for basic wear and trying out the new pieces.

It's on both front and back. However on the back of the shins it's a good idea to do 25 mm instead of 20 mm as it helps to cover the open back.

tkboots.com! edit: It's also not the first time TM posts high-res pics of original boots so we already know what they look like.

That box i supposed to be there. only ROTJ-linage armour (I'm guessing idealized kit have that too) has that box in the center.

These numbers are not set in stone, and those odd numbers you mention are a result of a metric > imperial > metric conversion. I use 15 and 20 mm respectively. It should however be somewhere around those figures, unless you need bigger for your larger frame.

That's even cooler.

Some might be and some might not be (stunt vs hero props). We know they used castings in ESB, and they needed even more guns for ROTJ so it makes sense to make castings instead of leasing or buying all real MGCs. But I have no proof just a feeling.

They might be casts of a MGC?

Brand new! Super cool! Good luck with the sale.

There is no such thing for that budget. You either get a cheap kit and do it yourself or you pay a lot more to get it made for you. But you can't have both. I think with your size though you can fit most kits, and an ATA kit isn't very expensive if you're in america.

Unfortunately I don't think it is. But there's a lot of stuff missing for boba in the legion, there's not even a CRL yet (which is understandable considering the amount of detail in the costume) so maybe one day it will be approvable. I know there's a guy in Germany who has a supertrooper costume. All you need though is lots of cash or spare time and head over to www.thedentedhelmet.com

I don't know if there's a special technique to keeping the shins where they are. I don't have a lot of issues with that and I never thought about that when I built my shins. I use tk-boots btw. I wouldn't let that be a showstopper.

You're right, Karin is on the right. Also notice the slightly larger gaps between the leg armour on her, as she's taller than me.

There already is a "supertrooper", a Boba Fett prototype. But I see what you mean.

Hehe! I'm the short one!

I have one of these and it work very good; http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12903 A more screen accurate way would be to glue (or use snaps) some wide elastic and sew a loop at the top of that and pull a belt through those loops.

And here's me and Karin at the troop.

The difference between the SFS/Dave M helmet and the John Mollo vocoder is minimal. I think there's no intentional difference between ANH and ESB. Some just have a worse paint job than other helmets.

I think staff makes the call based on who has the "rights" to sell armour based on what deal they made with TE or someone else who made the moulds. It's all very blurry. To be a vetted seller on these boards you need to make it clear where your moulds come from, who OK'ed it and have several happy buyers before you can be recommended by the forum as a "trusted seller" who can sell openly on the boards. Or something like that.

Yes, that looks good.

Agreed. You don't need a heatgun, just some strong clamps. And don't mount it too high like people used to. Let the angles line up with the angles on the shin, so the bottom of the knee plate is horizontal.

I can imagine the UKG having a lot to deal with.

A good costume also takes less time to approve as you don't need to find all the faults and show them to the applicant for correction.

Welcome! Also - you're welcome! It's been very enjoyable to help you with your build and see how beautiful it has turned out.

Well.. Mr no stripes wouldn't be approved either and he's on screen like 4 times throughout the movie.