gazmosis

How did you even see the male snap? Not real clear on that pic of the right side. Do like Michael said!

This all depends on which armor you invest in......are you going ABS or HIPS in which case you will need to primr paint and polish?

And some were even a rubber-like material.........right Karin?

You might have something here....painting the details BEFORE assembly. For some reason, I just can't bring myself to do it that way. Change could be a good thing for me. Having ABS helps, too!

All I can say is...WOW! And we can't wait to see build pics. After 4 months I know you're jumpy to dig in but make sure you have a huge plate full of patience next to you to snack on constantly!!!!

Oh you will approved no doubt about it! Nice armor! Fits you well.

So are we!!!

Love to see some pics of your build!!! Good luck and take your time!!!! There are some great threads on making sure your build goes well and some great tips on painting do's and dont's.(since you need to paint your armor.

That is typical especially with the cap-n-back. During vacuforming, it starts as the same piece of plastic used for the other armor parts but is stretched much farther. Although thin, the only part that is ever REALLY thin is the mic tip area. I often need to reinforce this area when building lids.

From one Gaz to another......Great job and congrats!!!!!!

Make sure when you guys are fitting the armor that he has the undersuit handy. He should be wearing that when fitting. Then tell him he is not allowed to gain ANY weight!!!!

Nice job mike!! Wish I read your solution before I built mine. It would have been a lot easier.

Great job putting those shots together, Vern!!! The front view above was the pic I was referring to. This is CLEARLY of case of several people looking at the same thing but see something completely different. I don't see anything in these pictures that seals the case. It only brings up more questions. How come no one wants to nit pick for the case of where the top rail is mounted (to the main barrel or the center of the rear sight)? What is that little sleeve that is riveted around the main barrel at the hinge of the folding stock? I never saw that on any builds. Unless blu-ray can show different, no one is gonna tell me that my set up is wrong when there is NO CONCLUSIVE proof that says otherwise. I think that if someone puts all their passion, love, effort and money into their armor and it is accurate but has not the knowledge to scratch build or the money to buy a hengstler but the rest of his blaster is accurate it should be allowed! And that is because the evidence from the film is conclusive!!!! This guy would say, "my blaster is accurate because Han Solo's blaster had neither a counter OR power cylinders." It is in the film, pictures CLEARLY show it...case closed. I have scrutinized the above pictures, closely. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that these blurry, black and white images prove nothing. The screen grab of the TK behind Leia, looks to me like the wires ARE attached at the top of the counter, came detached at the cylinders and are folded underneath the counter. So, bottom line, I will consider the wires my blaster accurate until someone can SHOW me otherwise.

Always great to help if I can. Can't wait to see the progress!!!

The tech on our hobby and the knowledge that we all have here on FISD has allowed us to build some of the greatest sets of armor anyone can hope for. A lot of troopers are shooting for as much accuracy as we can. This holds true for our weapons as well. EVERY E-11 build that chooses to use the Hengstler and power cylindars connects them with the coiled wires that are attached to the top, front of the hengstler. --------- The top pic from this breakdown shows the counter from a front view(although it is on its side). There is a triangle of circles at the top. Metal connection tabs at the bottom two of these circles are what are commonly used to connect the wires to in ALL the builds I have seen. Now my question: I have read entries several times that state that the wires on the film used blasters WERE NOT connected at the for-mentioned tabs but underneath. Basically saying,"your blaster is WRONG". I have also read that the wires were not black but red and green???????? There is a pic floating around that is a front view of a supposed screen used blaster focusing on the wires. It is a black and white, grainy image that, to me, clearly shows the wires attached at the bottom two of these above mentioned points although the pic was submitted to show them connected underneath. I have viewed dozens of screen grabs of the blasters and the only one that really shows the wires at all is the shot of the TKs behind Leia as Vader is grilling her. This shot MIGHT show this or not. Is this one grab the shot that sets this in stone??? This shot also shows the gaffer's tape and scratched armor that were synonymous with the rushed shooting schedule of ANH. Maybe the wires fell off and someone just stuck them on with electric tape to get through the shot? Other rushed shooting traits were: no tube stripes, frown with no screen, flapping calves, missing sniper plate, etc... It is also painfully obvious that MANY blasters in the film had neither counters OR power cylindars. So why can only a blaster WITH them make it to centurion? O.K. I am wandering. I am just saying that there are wonderful inconsistancies of film making that ANH was not immune to. What will be the final decision on these wires and why??????

Just to chime in on what I used.......electrical wire for model trains. Small diameter and copper core co when wrapped tightly around a pencil, it holds its shap...no drooping and can be in ANY position you want. Hope this helps!!!

Glad to help!!

Whoa!!!!!! Iposted two of the same pic.....MY BAD!!!! Here's the other side! The rivets go through the shim to hold everything in place.

First off, just a little FYI (cause that's what we do here) if you are at all going for accuracy, the rivets are on the other side of the armor. There should only be the base of a male snap showing on the top ab portion on this side. MY shim is exactly the same size as yours. On the right side of the main body of the armor is the place I used the snaps to get in and out of the armor. The left side is where the rivets should be. They should be evenly spaced, top to bottom about 10 mm in from the edges. The bottom ones will be covered by the belt, but most troopers dab paint on the top ones to match the armor. I hope this helps!!!

Depending on where you place those fans, aren't they a little thick? I have one intake at the frown and two at the rear traps pointing out for exhaust. I needed them to be no more than 10mm thick or else my hair would go into the fans and stop the blades...even with metal screen over the fans.

Amen, Brian. Dude, as a human (unless you weigh 110 lbs. soaking wet) your thighs come pretty close to touching naturally. Now, encase them in plastic armor. They're gonna rub a bit. Since your AM is ABS, you just need to polish out the rub marks. At most you'll need some 800 grit paper than polish. Don't cut anything!!!!

Well, with that said, I in no way meant to insult Kevin's character. Because the photos I viewed looked so much like something that was molded from a completed helmet only means this man has MAD sculpting skills. I have viewed in person his other clone projects and must tip my hat to his efforts. I just never knew the connection. Now I know.

Only a side by side would solve that riddle.

It looks like he just recasted an entire finished helmet, filled in some imperfections and recasted it...again.

No. For centurion in both ANH and ESB, the requirements state that along with the FX and MR helmets the ANHv2 helmet are not allowed