pandatrooper

I've been trading e-mails with Caboots for the last week or so. If you look on their site, they have no smaller sizes in stock, and do not expect any for some time as their supplier (they didn't make the TK boots themselves) went out of business. They've just been selling what they have left. I asked when they might expect the boots to be restocked, and all they could say was "in the future" with no ETA. I asked for at least a vague ETA but haven't gotten a response back yet. *** Update: I got an e-mail from them, they said 3 months - possibly more.*** I did also ask what it would take to make a custom pair in my size (I'm looking for mens 8.5 TK boots for what seems like forever now. Well at least many many many months!) and they gave me a quote of $300. It sort of surprises me that no other manufacturers make these types of boots for more reasonable prices. I've seen other items come out of Asia or India with good quality for much cheaper, and yet there's not many choices available. Sigh... I guess I might need to go the Jodhpur / Chelsea dyed leather route. I know it's authentic, but also more high maintenance than I wanted the solution to be.

Shoe goo was originally developed to repair shoes. It's very durable, and cures with a slight thickness and remains flexible, that's the key. If you're gluing on soft plastic, you need a flexible adhesive. I'm sure the troops here can suggest other adhesives, but that's what i use on anything that needs to remain flexible. Have you considered sewing loop velcro to the elastic straps, and then applying some hook velcro to the plate? This way, the velcro attaches the plate to the strap, but you won't need to put velcro on the gloves since the strap holds it on.

Shoe goo works great on flexible materials. I used to repair RC car bodies (very flexible). I would spread some onto the plate, then some on the elastic strap, and hold them down with clothes pins or clamps (not too tight). Stick some wax paper between the elastic and clamp to prevent the clamp from sticking to the elastic. Just have one strap wrap around your wrist, and another at the base of your fingers.

I've tried mailing them at the e-mail address on their site a few times on separate occasions with no reply. I just want to check on their stock status and how much shipping will be. Does anyone know them or how to get in touch with them? Thanks

I'm working as hard as I can, I'd love to make it into the EIB 100. Finding boots that meet CRL requirements in my size is the key! Argh!!!

Thanks for the feedback, I'll probably do something similar. Your blaster looks great BTW! Does anyone know if holes and slots in a blaster will affect EIB at all?

You're so lucky. I'm an 8.5. They haven't had any in a looong time. Check my thread in the WTB section. I've been in touch with them and am contemplating getting them to custom make a pair for me (price unknown).

I noticed most people that mod the Hasbro blaster for a sound board (Hyperdyne, Plecter, etc..) pretty much mod the blaster with a resin kit, and install the sound kit. But with the extra resin parts glued on (especially the Hengstler counter), do you find the volume is decreased? Has anyone drilled extra holes or modified their blaster to allow the sounds to come out better? I have an idea of what i want to do, just want to see if anyone else has done something similar for advice before I start drilling holes in my blaster! Also wondering if this would affect EIB status at all? Thanks!

Awesome, congrats Steve! Can't wait to see it, make sure post some pics! I'm working some suspenders / garter things as a harness for the torso, and building snaps for my armor build. I might have a different way to do the snaps, if it works out I'll post my findings. I also got my crappy $30 boots from Fleabay (yes, I know they won't pass for CRL, but it's all I can find for now in my size until caboots can make some more).

Thanks TKDUEUNO, Fireblade and everyone else. Exactly what I was looking for.

"The picture you have posted there terry looks more like a clone trooper set up. " Do you find mobility OK? I'm just wondering if one strap suspension method will offer better flexibility and mobility. This is kind of one area where I want to be flexible, and not just stick to the "movie accurate" technique just because it's authentic. *Firebladejedi, not sure if your strap setup is movie authentic, just using this phrase as an example.

You could probably start with a Nerf launcher like this, and add some basic shape add ons / greeblies like Dmian mentioned and paint /weather it up. If you lay it out right, you could keep the launcher functional! Maybe start with something like this? --------

Thanks for the feedback an images guys. To clarify, here's a diagram to describe what I'm trying to do strapping wise, I would love to get your guys feedback on it. I noticed a lot of people have done the strapping for the torso like Firebladejedi and TK 2126 MD, where the chest / back, abs / kidney, and cod / butt is all sort of strapped together in 1 unit. I guess you undo the crotch snap, and put the whole thing over your head, then snap the crotch and ab sides together? Or keep the crotch strapped, and undo the shoulder straps and step into the torso like a giant diaper, and snap the shoulders shut? This is what I had in mind. The abs / kidney, cod / butt are strapped together, but the chest / back simply rests on my shoulders, and the chest back is held together at the shoulders (shoulder straps standard) and the "new" strap is sort of under my armpits (see hand written note) that keeps the chest and back together. To put it on, you'd put on the kidney / abs, cod / butt in one unit like a diaper / set of hip waders, then the chest / back goes over your head, and all you need to do is secure the snaps / velcro under the arm pits. The reason why I thought this might be better is it would allow for a little more movement and allow the torso to twist more. Secondly, I'm about 5' 8" so I don't have extra height like some 5' 10" guys do to "fill out" the armor. I figure I can use any extra mobility possible. What do you guys think? I know there's no right or wrong way to do strapping, just wanted to see what worked best for people in terms of mobility and ease of use. Thanks!

Ah, OK. So in that last picture, what I'm seeing is the "backside" of a male snap on the abs section. And like you mentioned, there's a female snap on a strap from the kidney section that would connect to it. I think I have a good way to make the closure more efficient now. **You know, I think it's kind of a funny thing that we're all so fascinated by these sorts of small details. 72 people have viewed this thread, and we want to know "EXACTLY" how a snap button should be installed, because in the original Star Wars movie - that's just the way it was. And we don't question how silly this might be, it's important! We all want to know!

Thanks guys, very helpful! I can see just the one snap visible on the left side. Is it a "male" snap (with a hole in the center) and does it snap to anything or is it just for show / ANH authenticity? Because it looks like your sides of the abs close with velcro. That's the exact snap I wanted to get info on.

So, if I'm trying to replicate the ANH style - I noticed that on the left, there's the 3 sets (6 total) rivets running vertically near your left elbow. I'm going to use the elastic / snap glued on plates method here. However, for the right side - in all the pics I've seen there's just one snap visible, near the right elbow, on the front ab piece. Is there only one snap here? Is there another one under the belt? And how does the fabric or elastic join / close here? I know the left side sort of clamshells, but how is the right side secured? Also, re: the chest and back, I know how the shoulders should work (glued ribbed shoulders in front, floating in back, webbing strap underneath) but do people normally have some kind of elastic keeping the chest and back together (running along your ribs?). Let me know, I can upload a drawing or something if necessary. Thanks!

Thanks Joey, I whipped it up in Photoshop the other night.

Hey awesome! I saw your posts a while back, glad you decided to keep your armor! Hang tight guys, I FINALLY got a reply from Outer Rim - they're a BC based squad within the Badlands Garrison. They run the events that take place in the interior and Vancouver (they've marched in the PNE parade, how cool is that?) They put me in touch with someone on Badlands and can get us more registration info (if you're not registered already). *Erwin: We'd be part of the "Outer Rim Squad", a part of the Badlands Garrison. So there wouldn't be a Vancouver based garrison due to number of people, etc.. I found out that the admin from Badlands may be out of town due to work, as there's several broken areas on the site (you can't register or search) and you obviously can't see forums that require registration. Once I get more info, I'll post it up or send you guys PM's. Thanks.

Looks pretty accurate to me. It was cast in several pieces, not just one to maintain the shape of the original counter. Just about as accurate as you can get with a resin copy, other than buying a real one! * BTW: there was a real one listed a couple days ago, not sure if it's still there

Any other electronic units that you troops might suggest?

Hey Steve, I did some more research and found the "Outer Rim Squad" which is an existing squad within the Badlands Garrison, and is focused on BC and the lower mainland Looks to be a good opportunity to join there. http://www.outerrimsquad.net/outerrimhome.html I'm going to try and contact them today to see if they can clarify anything re: contacting the Badlands Garrison, and what exactly we're supposed to do. I'll keep you posted by PM. I still need to work on my armor so it will be a little while before I've completed it to my liking, but when I do I'll be ready to sign up! If there's any others FISD members here in the in the Lower mainland region of BC, let me and Steve know by posting here!

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Hey troopers, just wanted to find out what sort of electronics options there were for E-11 (hasbro, hollow resin, scratchbuilt PVC, etc..) that might be a bit more simplistic? I know there's the Plecter labs unit, and the Hyperdyne blaster upgrade. Both of these yield fantastic results. I know you get what you pay for, but I think I'm looking for something that's in between a Hasbro (which we all know is pretty weak in terms of electronics) and the Hyperdyne kit. The thing is the Hyperdyne kit has the programming modes, the vibration, and all those great features, but I don't think I need that. I think a single blast with some light FX and some better sound would do the trick. Stun would be great too, but not necessary. Plus, I think $250 for electronics is a bit out of my budget right now (with all the other stuff I'm working / have ordered). Are home brew techniques my only other option? Any input would be great, thanks guys

Bummer dude, hope you can get it back or get a replacement!

Sgt Steve or anyone else, is there any more info on this squad from vancouver? What's the name of the squad? The search function on Badlands doesn't work, so I can't search for any info. Portions of the site don't seem to work, so I'm really confused as to what I'm supposed to do. I'm very close to Vancouver, and it would be great to find out about more troops in my area! I've searched for members on 501st and I can see about 5-6 TK's listed, but I don't know much more than that. Also, if there's any members here that are part of the Badlands Garrison, could you get someone from that Garrison to contact me? I've been trying to register on Badlands for a week and tried to contact their GWL, GML and XO by mail and I still haven't received a reply or response from anyone. Thanks in advance!