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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/28/2026 in Posts

  1. Chiming in on ABS filament specifically: it is highly recommended to use an enclosed printer with a heated chamber, as ABS is notorious for warping if there are any temperature fluctuations (and it's off gassing is toxic). I learned this the hard way when printing my E-11 barrel; on my first attempt, I accidentally left the enclosure door cracked after cleaning it, and the rest is history. If you are running an open printer setup, PETG is the gold standard. Regarding costs, prices will vary depending on where you are in the world, but I’ve found that buying in bulk levels the playing field. If you buy a multipack (usually 4 rolls) from SUNLU, their ABS is nearly the same price as their PETG. Right now, I'm seeing ABS at around $12.50/roll (ref: https://a.co/d/06Pljxqf) and PETG at $11.50/roll (ref: https://a.co/d/01gSvQog). That extra $1/roll for ABS is marginal when you consider the added heat resistance, durability, and ease of post-processing (like acetone vapor smoothing). Don't quote me on this, but if the DLT-19 uses the same flashlight style as the Rogue One E-11, you can pick up a functional "replica" light on Amazon here: https://a.co/d/0h83ztIm
    2 points
  2. I find Rust0leum very inconsistent and can run easily. Here's a few threads on painted ROTK helmets
    2 points
  3. As I said before, the Jedha Sandtrooper is an MEPD costume. https://crls.501st.com/mepd/jedha-sandtrooper-rogue-one So there is no EIB (Level 2) or Centurion (level3) for it. FISD doesn't approve MEPD costumes. We are happy to help build the Non-Saga Stromtrooper (formally R1 Stormtrooper), but some of those questions will need to be addressed with MEPD (https://forum.mepd.net/) as to how their Level 2 and Level 3 approvals work. MEPD has Police Officer Program and S.W.A.T. Program as their Level 2 and Level 3 approvals. Typically, you need to meet all the criteria of Level 2 or Level 3 for that approval, but how you troop later is up to you.
    1 point
  4. Welcome, a mistake that I made with some of my helmets and armor is that I painted white on with a flat coat, then added some gloss coat later once the base white had dried. I really like Sayless’ recommendations when it comes to paints and starting with gloss and clear coats, because some of my armor started to yellow with just gloss.
    1 point
  5. If you like the Rust-Oleum brand and live close enough to a Home Depot distribution center to get it, I can't recommend their Acrylic Lacquer Gloss White enough (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-12-oz-Acrylic-Lacquer-Gloss-White-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-253364/205762489). It goes down incredibly smooth, and if you do happen to get a run, it is super easy to sand out. Granted, getting a run with this stuff is pretty hard to do, though I've somehow managed to achieve that milestone twice. It costs the exact same as the stock in-store paint, but the unfortunate catch is that it has to be special ordered. Alternatively, as others like Justin/TheRascalKing have suggested, Behr #52 Spray Paint is a great option you can just grab off the shelf for the same price (https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PREMIUM-12-oz-52-White-Gloss-Interior-Exterior-Spray-Paint-and-Primer-B001944/310275621). However, since it is an enamel, it is prone to yellowing over time and will require a clear coat. If you go that route, keep in mind that 1K clears tend to yellow after about a year, whereas a 2K clear will last much longer, generally three to five years in my experience. The only caveat with the 2K clear is that it finishes just a touch shinier than standard R1TK armor. Also, because it's an enamel, you really have to be wary of your recoat windows and sanding down runs, which I've fallen victim to significantly. The saving grace is that Behr's nozzles are really good about preventing runs in the first place, so it is actually pretty hard to screw up. Welcome to the FISD!
    1 point
  6. ABS is always better for strength and temperature resistance, but my experience thus far is that PETG does the job. As for a build thread for the Jedha Sandtrooper, you'll have to check out MEPD.net. They are the home of the Sandtroopers. There is a lot of information on MEPD for them. https://forum.mepd.net/index.php?/forum/59-jedha-city-sandtroopers/ As for build threads, I don't know if they do that there like we do. You can always start a R1 Build thread here, and then go make it dirty with them.
    1 point
  7. I think the only comment I would make currently is, be very careful using PLA. When I first started printing I printed several blasters in PLA, and every single one of them warped at some point. PLA doesn't deal well with even moderate heat. If you leave it in the car to go have some lunch before or after a troop, there is a high chance that it will warp. I personally, don't print anything that is going to go outside, or be stored in the car before/after an event in anything less then PETG. I would print everything in ASA or ABS if I had the right environmental controls, but so far, knock on wood, none of my PETG props, including my Droid, have had any issues.
    1 point
  8. Thank you! I will definitely try that. Long live the Empire!
    1 point
  9. There are a few builders that will do this. But nothing is "501st Approvable" out of the box. Approval is based on how the armor fits the member wearing it. So while you could send your measurements to one of the folks that do commissioned builds, if it looks sloppy or out of proportion on you, it would need to be fixed before approval is granted. Your best bet is to buy a kit and find local members that can help you build it. There are plenty of Stormtroopers members in the North Carolina area. If you build it, you know how to adjust it, and fix it when, not if, it breaks. You can find many of the suggested makers on this list. Best of luck in your quest to join the ranks!
    1 point
  10. Correct your GML will forward your application photos to the GWL (sometimes it's the same person) they will add the appropriate frames and be uploaded to the legion database. Time can differ depending on how busy they are in real life, also there can be a wait for legion to add the photos to the roster. Also if you can add your USER ID to your membership profile update request, I added instructions Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper
    1 point
  11. Finally got the Rouge One DLT19 done. Just a troop gun if it doesn't need repair. Even with a metal rod down the center it's surprising fragile!
    1 point
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