Sayless

I’ve been… busy. Mostly printing. Mostly sanding. Mostly reprinting things I had already convinced myself were finished, and realizing in writing this post, that statement couldn't be farther from the truth. A few updates ago I proudly declared in true Michael Scott fashion, “I declare, the models are finished!” which turned out to be… wildly optimistic. Unfortunately for me—but hopefully beneficial for anyone building these down the road—I’ve continued refining nearly every piece. I have a bad habit of seeing something that’s 90% right and immediately convincing myself it needs to become 95%... or close to 99%. The biggest revision this time around was the back insert. Yep, same one I've been chasing since May. After digging through some additional reference photos, I realized the recess/cavity was a bit too deep. The “II” details should sit nearly flush with the surrounding lip, while the five horizontal ribs protrude just slightly beyond them. It isn’t a dramatic change, but it’s one of those little details that kept bothering me every time I looked at it. So naturally, with the back armor now nearly ready for its base coat (minus a few touch-ups here and there), it was time to move back to the absolute bane of my existence… The thighs. Surprisingly, the actual design wasn’t the problem this time, printing it was. My first test prints in PLA fit and functioned exactly how I’d hoped, which was an enormous relief after everything these parts have put me through. Then ABS decided to remind me that overhangs actually require proper supports. Who would’ve thought? Thankfully, after tweaking a few settings and giving the printer another shot, everything came together exactly as intended. (Ugh… vertical photos throwing off my groove.) One of my bigger regrets earlier in this build was spending the time to fabricate a belt out of HDPE. It worked, and truthfully, I'm still actually quite proud of it if I were going in a slightly different approach. But somewhere along the way, this project quietly evolved into asking myself a different question: “How much of this suit can I actually 3D print?” So… naturally… I modeled the belt too. And in typical fashion, I repeated this step exactly five times until I got the results I needed. Using the behind-the-scenes Andor photos from the FISD gallery as my primary reference, I tried to replicate the proportions as closely as possible while still making something practical to print and assemble. I didn’t quite get enough time over the weekend to remove all of the supports, or even attempt to sand it, but here’s a look at the Blender renders along with a few close-ups of the boxes that are currently being reprinted in resin. And for reference, here’s the enhanced gallery image I based everything from. Working from a single photograph at a less-than-ideal angle makes proportions more art than science, but I think it landed surprisingly close. The only real liberty I took was making the two center boxes separate pieces. It’s entirely possible the production belts molded these as one component—or simply glued them together afterward. Without seeing the backs of the pieces, or talking with team that originally built the armor, it’s hard to know for certain, and frankly… that’s one rabbit hole I’m trying not to disappear down. With all of that out of the way, I finally lined everything up last night just to see where I actually stood. For the first time since starting this project… it finally feels like I’m building a Stormtrooper instead of a collection of individual parts. There are still a few pieces missing from this photo (the newly printed belts being one of them), but they’re all sitting elsewhere in my "workshop" (really, a glorified garage with A/C) waiting their turn. By the end of this build I’ll probably do a dedicated “Hall of Shame” update showcasing all of the failed prints, duplicates, redesigns, and abandoned parts I’ve accumulated over the last six months. Trust me… there’s a lot I’m not showing here. So, what’s left? At this point, the roadmap is actually pretty straightforward: Final primer of most of the parts and some obvious touch-up work Internal strapping and snap installation Full test fit (I'm the most excited for this) Base coat Final assembly I’m planning to tackle the internal strapping before moving fully into paint so I can verify everything fits the way I intended. I’d much rather discover a problem now than after everything has already been painted... as I'm getting a bit tired of reprinting things that are too far along. There are still a handful of pieces I’m not completely satisfied with—mainly the cod and posterior, which are leftovers from my early Akira-printing days. Those will almost certainly get revisited before I submit for approval, but they’re no longer preventing me from moving forward even if I do end up sticking with them temporarily... As I mentioned a few updates ago, I’m still very much in “go mode.” Originally, my goal was simply to have everything ready for a Halloween costume party. Now… I honestly think I might beat that deadline. Six months ago, I thought the hard part was learning how to 3D print. Turns out it was randomly deciding to learn Blender. Now that the modeling is (mostly…) behind me, it’s finally time to build the Stormtrooper I’ve been imagining since December. My soft parts should be shipping any day now, the finish line is finally in sight, and if everything continues going according to plan… I might actually be submitting for Legion approval a little sooner than I originally expected. Fingers crossed.

You hit the nail on the head about the supplemental pieces! For the interim, and to keep this build on schedule, I’m sticking with Paul's files for the arms, hands, and abdomen. They’re still the most accurate versions available for those sections. Down the road, I do plan to model these myself to improve their overall durability and refine the details specifically for a TK rather than a Shoretrooper. I’m also using Paul's shins (and his molded cover strips). While Akira's shins are workable, the shape is technically a bit off; they're a little too bulbous at the top, whereas the screen-accurate look requires a much more gradual profile from top to bottom. And, I've been a bit "obsessed" with resin printing this past week: There's also been this quick trial run with some free resin I received. Not the optimal layer height, or clear coat (didn't want to waste 2K)... but it proves the concept works.

Chiming in here, and I completely agree with @bTonyd! Greg's mods are fantastic, but they definitely keep you on your toes and require a few test fits to get everything sitting just right. You’ve already done an amazing job addressing most of it, but I wanted to share a few friendly tips from my own experience that might help: Lenses If you haven't tried it yet, E6000 is an absolute lifesaver for this instead of hot glue! It’s super budget-friendly (around $6–$7 a tube) and you can easily grab it at Walmart, Home Depot, or Michaels. It's officially my go-to strategy for my builds now. Just a quick heads-up: it does have a pretty strong scent that likes to hang around for a bit, so definitely vent the room, and your helmet! The Tube Stripes These little guys are notoriously tricky on any FDM-printed helmet, so don't sweat it—we all struggle with them! My favorite trick is to generously backfill the cavities with spot putty. It’s always easier to sand away excess putty now than it is to try and add more after your base coat is down. Also, if you can get your hands on some small hand files, they work wonders for dialing in those crisp, sharp edges much better than wadded-up sandpaper. I've been using these: https://a.co/d/0bRt1Qrc The Gaps The best advice here is just to take your time and test fit often. Materials like PETG can warp just a tiny bit, and it’s surprisingly easy to accidentally over-sand a spot. For the trim: Try filling the area with some filler and gently scraping it back until it sits perfectly flush. It worked beautifully on my dome-to-back lip, which seems to be your same issue! For the ears: You absolutely hit the nail on the head here. Those alignment studs Greg designed are brilliant, but they don't quite leave room for layers of paint. Taping them off to keep the plastic bare is the right move for a perfect fit and a strong glue bond. (Or, you can just lightly scuff the paint off the studs with high-grit sandpaper afterward). Honestly, your build is coming along beautifully! For what it's worth, I used this mesh (https://a.co/d/04NzSWRj) for my own teeth and mic tips. While the scale is a tiny bit closer to the teeth than the mics, it is such a minor detail that I’m sure you’ll sail right through basic approval (and probably even higher tiers) without a hitch. I'm actually chatting with someone now about a tighter weave for the mics, but we haven't found anything definitive yet. You are making massive strides with this project. Like Tony said, keep your head up—you've got this!

There hasn’t been much physical progress on the armor itself, but I did hit a milestone I’ve been working toward for the last couple of months: phase 1 of the modeling is officially complete. That means every major component I personally set out to redesign now, well, exists. I've tweaked the chest plate, re-modeled the back insert (as I showed last week), and finally modeled the posterior armor as well as the belts and their ammo boxes. From here, the process formally shifts from modeling... to seeing if all of the parts actually work as intended. The next phase is going back through each piece, test printing everything at full scale, making adjustments for durability and printability where needed, and finalize some additional features to make assembly and strapping a bit easier. So… to keep this update relatively brief, here are a few renders to hold everyone over until the printers inevitably tell me what I did wrong. At this point, I still fully intend to revisit the remaining pieces—arms, shins, hand guards, and the abdomen are all on the list—but they aren’t an immediate priority anymore. Right now, it’s officially “go mode.” My focus is getting everything printed, finished, painted, and assembled so I can finally complete my armor and submit for approval (seeing as I've yet to do that). One other fun development this week: I managed to pick up a resin printer during Prime Day. Naturally, I immediately started reprinting some of the smaller, more detailed components. I have to admit… I get the hype now. (Printed in Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0+) Alright… I've put off sanding for long enough this time. Time to get back to making plastic dust.

I used this one off Amazon, not sure how globally it’s offered, but may benefit you and others, like PlatinumLex: https://a.co/d/0iPK97Tk It’s a bit more on the darker side, but I’ve been somewhat able to see out of it. PlatinumLex showed off his paint selection I believe on an earlier page, but Rustoleum Granite seems to be the consensus for grey amongst several of us, and for the abdomen (and other blues) a “royal blue” shade seems to be a close match. I just bought the $5 Home Depot-brand for this. It’s a decent shade, but might be a bit bright. I’m going to end up looking for a comparable color from Behr, which if I can find it, will likely be one I suggest to others too.

In my last helmet, I actually use a welding visor too, but I ran into the exact same issue—it’s just a little too dark for casual wear. If you're looking for alternatives, @11b30b4 has an awesome tutorial on vacuum forming and dyeing lenses. For that method, you'd just need to use some relatively thin, clear PETG: I could be wrong, but I'm not sure if Paul actively sells his lenses right now (I think he only does limited or occasional runs). Plus, there's another minor hurdle: his lenses are specifically designed to fit Nico's original files. Because Greg/TKModder reshaped the eyes to be asymmetrical (one side has the little "bump" as a homage to the originals), Paul's might not fit perfectly. Another option—if you have the gear for it—is resin printing! I'm actually in the middle of testing this out firsthand right now, so the jury is still out on whether it's a perfect viable option, but it could be worth a shot. FWIW: The helmet is definitely going to be your most time-consuming component, so don't let it discourage you or make you think the rest of the armor will take just as long! Remember that bigger pieces like the chest have a relatively smooth shape, so the post-processing is minimal by comparison. Parts like the back do require a bit of extra work due to the shapes, but I still found it way easier than tackling the helmet.

It’s been an interesting week, to say the least. Unfortunately, most of it was spent battling printer issues—many of which were entirely self-inflicted. While waiting on replacement parts and trying not to throw tools across the garage, I decided to make the most of the downtime and focus on modeling. The good news? I’m now down to the final handful of pieces needed to complete the armor. The posterior plate is really the last major component left on my list, which I’m hoping to wrap up modeling later this week. After that, it’ll mostly be refinements, test printing, and inevitably finding things I forgot. Here’s a quick peek at a couple of the latest parts: I’m still dialing in some of the finer details, particularly the internal attachment points and ensuring everything interfaces properly with the surrounding armor, but I finally feel like I’m entering the home stretch. A big thank you to Justin as well for helping answer some of the lingering questions I had regarding a few construction details. It’s amazing how one quick conversation can suddenly make something finally click! At this point, I’ve accepted that I’ll probably continue modeling the remaining pieces while taking mental breaks from sanding and painting. There are only so many hours you can spend staring at filler primer before your brain starts looking for literally anything else to do. Speaking of which… Expect the next update or two to be far less modeling-heavy and more focused on paint, and maybe assembly? The goal is to start turning this collection of individual parts into something that actually resembles a Stormtrooper. A fully white suit of armor suddenly doesn’t feel quite so far, far away. One of the smaller projects I tackled this week (during my unplanned downtime) was revisiting the back armor insert. I originally thought I had a pretty solid version finished, but after printing it I found a few issues that bothered me. So naturally, instead of accepting it and moving on like a reasonable person, I remodeled it for the 8th time. I’m glad I did. Using some additional references, I refined both the insert itself and several of the surrounding greeble details, and this may genuinely be one of my favorite pieces I’ve modeled so far (I tend to say this about every piece). The print quality itself is… let’s call it “a work in progress.” Thankfully, sanding and ABS slurry exists. Now that both printers are finally back online, the plan is to get these last few parts over the next week or two and continue marching toward the Halloween deadline—which seems to have become the unofficial target date for several of us New-Era/ROTK builders. Progress may have slowed temporarily, but we’re still moving forward. Alright, break time’s over. Back to sanding.

Adhesive-backed EVA foam seems to be the go-to. White is preferable, though it's prone to staining, but several board members recommended it based on their own suits. For the clear coat, Glen’s suggestion of 2K clear is the strongest route since the catalyst hardener helps prevent yellowing. However, the catch is that 2K might be too shiny for an R1TK. Also, be careful with multiple layers—if your clear is too thick, it’s prone to peeling. It's a common issue in the automotive industry right now. Because of U.S. environmental regulations (amongst other countries I'm sure), the old, highly durable (but toxic) paints have been replaced by thinner, eco-friendly formulas that are unfortunately much more prone to chipping. The same goes for spray cans. Paint's simply aren't made to be thick anymore, and because of that... you'll end up with a weaker bond.

I’d agree to a similar method that Glen suggested. This, and/or Blender are good tools to use currently. In the future, options like FormFitter may also be great but there’s not a definitive timeline on its release, as the beta period just launched on Friday. A lot of scaling can be done based solely on getting rough measurements of your body with a fabric measuring tape (the soft flexible ones), and then measuring cross sections in your preferred scaling software. The thighs are arguably the hardest part in my opinion with these non-saga TKs as most files feature a double overlapping system which is good for gluing or Velcro, but not necessarily for flexibility. For me, most of Akira’s files were too tight initially so I scaled up to 102 or 103%, but this generally left the piece being too tall. It’s, unfortunately, a lot of trial and error unless you have a scan of yourself to reference your scaling to. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you need help, I’ve had my fair share with these thighs!

Thanks for dropping those references, Glen! I think I misworded my post a bit—I was actually wondering about the internal strapping that’s hidden from view. For instance, how (if at all) is the underlap held in place (outside of the visible velcro)? I recall seeing some internal rigging in early Rogue One BTS photos that kept it closed, alongside the thigh-to-abdomen straps you mentioned. I fully intend to go with the fabric covers over the nylon strapping (with buckles) as per the references available! As far as the rear cover strips go... They're definitely angled outward toward the top, and the bottom lines up with the outer corner of the bottom rim, exactly as you pointed out. Honestly, that visible underlap might just be a dressing issue, similar to what we noticed in a bunch of the Celebration photos. It’s always tough to prove these things with just screenshots, but I think this alignment is on the right track! Working on test prints now, will update this photo with additional photos in the next day or so. EDIT: As promised, test prints! Planning to make a few minor tweaks to the bottom rim to give it a tad more clearance, buttttt I'd say I nailed the thighs.

The chest plate is finally done! I’ll be honest—I’m ridiculously proud of this piece. This thing has haunted my dreams for nearly 2 months. I’ve reworked it more times than I’d like to admit, and while I know “perfect” is an impossible standard, this is probably the closest I’ve come to achieving what I originally pictured in my head when I started this project. It’s been painted in Behr #52 Gloss White, which will ultimately serve as the finish coat for the rest of the armor as well. And that brings us to wrapping up the thighs… This has single-handedly been the biggest pain point of the entire build, and truthfully, it’s the reason I started modeling my own parts in the first place. There are some good files available, but after printing and comparing several different versions, I kept running into the same issues: the front and rear cover strips weren’t quite right (or in the right orientation), the assembly methods varied wildly, and the overall construction didn’t seem to match what I was seeing in the reference material. After far more research than any sane person should devote to thigh armor, I think I’ve finally landed on a solution I’m happy with. I’ve had some great conversations with several members of the community, and after digging through reference photos from Celebration 2022, behind-the-scenes images, and various screen captures, I’ve come to the conclusion that the thighs appear to be assembled almost identically to the shins. Shocking, right? More specifically, the front seam appears to utilize a lap joint hidden beneath the cover strip, while the rear "underlap" tucks behind the cover strip to conceal the excess material (presumably for a "one size fits most" methodology). Looking at the Celebration photos, you can clearly see evidence of that front overlap construction: One particularly interesting photo shared with me from the Rogue One armor production process suggests there may have originally been some form of buckle system used on the rear closure. However, by the time we reach productions like The Mandalorian and Andor, that method appears to have either changed or been simplified considerably. My personal suspicion is that some variation of a nylon retention system may have existed internally, similar to what we see on other armor components (like the biceps), but I don’t personally have enough evidence to confidently make that claim. So for now, I’m sticking to what can actually be clearly supported by the reference materials available; plus the fact that the CRL is now framed as "non-saga" opposed to the original Rogue One-specific verbiage. I still want to make a few *minor* tweaks before committing to a full-scale print (like adding some magnets for suiting up), but hopefully I’ll have a physical test piece in hand within the next week or so—assuming I stop finding excuses to order more filament. For the more immediate future, my focus is shifting back toward finishing the existing armor components while also wrapping up the lower right thigh ammo boxes (currently "in progress"). After that comes the cod armor and posterior plate… Which shouldn’t be too hard, right? (I’m sure future me will regret writing that.)

The arms between the Akira and Galactic Armory (GA) files appear very similar based on the GA renders and what I can see on my own Akira printed parts. You should easily be able to get away with using either for basic approval. The abdomen and kidney armor configuration is a bit unique. Per the CRL and screen-used armor, the abdomen is a "single entity" with a gap in the back utilized for a corset-style system, like this: This is then covered by a kidney/trauma plate that slots into the lower recess to ideally conceal the closure system, as outlined by the CRL. Looking at both the GA and Akira files, it appears to be just a plate that sits on the back, so there shouldn't be any tricky or overly complex engineering required here. There is a bit more to tackle with the rest of the build, but let me start by saying: don't be discouraged! This is by no means a cheap project. I originally started with a maximum budget of $250 and have far exceeded that due to trial and error, such as choosing the wrong filaments or buying multiple file sets. That said, you absolutely have this. For scaling purposes, Akira’s files (I am unsure about GA's) are well-proportioned for someone around 5'10" and 170–190 lbs. If you fall close to that range, you should be fine. However, keep in mind that his forearms and biceps run a bit large compared to the rest of the armor. Based on your initial prints from the GA files, you may want to scale down on the X and Y axes for the arms while keeping the Z axis (the height) at 100%. While Akira’s files have their own flaws, they will absolutely get you to basic approval with minor tweaks. My biggest concern with his back file is the inner box. While it does include the necessary cutout—similar to GA's file (minus the missing 8mm hole)—it lacks the proper lip that contains the cog and II components. This was a frustrating hurdle for me. However, looking back at @BigJasoni's build (this post here specifically), it appears he fabricated a "shim" by dropping a simple cube into his slicer and cutting out the center. (From Jason's build ^) I have done my best to replicate this fix digitally by making the insert box a separate entity, but I am still tweaking parts of the assembly that look perfect in a 3D space but require some real-world trial and error. When splitting large armor pieces like the backplate, I highly recommend adding dowels to aid alignment. Nearly any modern slicer (like Orca for instance) can do this automatically within the "Cut" tool by using the "Add Connectors" option. I am actually doing this right now with my own back armor test print since it exceeds my printer's build volume. Combining alignment dowels with CA glue or epoxy will create an incredibly strong initial bond. From there, you can reinforce the seam on the back with a soldering iron and excess filament like you noted. For post-processing the seams, Bondo Spot Putty is excellent, but only for blemishes under 1/8" thick. For deeper gaps, it's always safer to weld in extra filament, sand it down, and repeat until you create a slight high spot. It is much easier to sand down excess plastic than it is to fill a deep cavity with spot putty, which is highly prone to shrinking and/or cracking. If you need structural strength, standard two-part Bondo mix is better than spot putty, though it still has its limits (and can get pricey). Fiberglass-reinforced Bondo ("Kitty Hair") would be the absolute strongest option, but it is expensive, hazardous to breathe, and miserable to sand smooth—definitely keep that as a last resort.

I believe the core issue with Galactic Armory (GA) files is that while they certainly resemble a Stormtrooper, they have too many structural inaccuracies to pass basic 501st approval. For me, the biggest red flag is the chest plate, which isn't remotely close to what we see on screen. (Granted, it's ultimately your GML's final decision that counts) Side-by-side, the curvature just doesn't match the screen-used armor. As you and others have pointed out, the bottom sides of the GA chest flare outward away from the body, whereas the screen-accurate armor curves naturally inward toward the wearer. This seems to be the exact issue you faced when trying to get the side wings to work, forcing you to shorten them significantly and force an inward curve just to make them fit. Moving down, a smaller but still notable issue lies with the thighs. They completely miss the raised, secondary smaller cover strip required by the CRL, which states that cover strips must be beveled, roughly ⅛" thick, and have a smaller cover strip layered on top. While this is a common flaw with many files on the market right now, it is most apparent on the GA version. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The helmet has been discussed in great detail, and the consensus across the detachment is that GA files simply do not meet the baseline for basic approval without an overwhelming amount of heavy modifications. Nico's is currently the gold standard within the community, but Meiloorun and ChrisThePropGuy are also making massive strides to compete with this. Furthermore, after scouring just about every 3D-print related build thread on the forum, it’s clear that approval isn't just a checklist. Even if all the basic requirements are technically met on paper, the GMLs still look at the armor from a holistic, full-body view to judge whether it truly captures the screen-accurate look and proportions of an R1TK. Please take all of this with a grain of salt, from one currently unapproved member to another. GA files are alright for general cosplay, and I completely understand not wanting to buy yet another set of files—it’s a total rabbit hole (coming from experience). However, the sheer amount of time and effort you’re about to invest in reprinting, repriming, and repainting these parts is astronomical. To guarantee you hit the base requirements for Legion approval, the smartest move would be to switch to Akira’s files, even if it's just for specific problem areas like the chest plate (since their back armor isn't much better than GA's anyway). I'm always happy to lend a hand if any other issues arise. That’s what this community is here for!

Welcome to the FISD! 3D-printed armor can definitely be a bit cumbersome, but it is entirely doable with enough patience and effort. Akira’s files are great, and while you might encounter a few minor hiccups with certain parts, those have been deeply detailed and troubleshoot right here on the forums. I haven’t personally heard of any mods to Akira’s files yet, so I’m curious to see what you found—I wouldn’t be surprised at all if they exist! When it comes to smoothing out your pieces, UV resin is an excellent approach because it coats well and sands down pretty easily. A lot of us also rely heavily on spot putty, specifically the 3M or Bondo brands. Other builders have found plenty of success with plastic wood filler from the local home improvement store, too. I’ve tried both and personally had better odds with the spot putty, but it really comes down to individual preference. As others have already mentioned, Nico’s helmet files are pretty much the community gold standard, especially when you pair them with Greg’s mods. The helmet is easily the most time-intensive part of the entire build, so it makes total sense that you're saving the best for last. Doing it this way gives you a great opportunity to practice various techniques on the rest of the armor first so you can figure out what you like and dislike before tackling the bucket. With Akira’s armor files and Nico’s base helmet, you should have no problem earning basic Legion approval, provided you follow the minimum requirements outlined in the CRL and really take your time with the prep work before painting. As PlatinumLex mentioned, never hesitate to ask if you run into questions. There are some awesome resources and incredibly helpful members here, and I can’t wait to watch your build progress!

I think you're off to a really solid start with the paint! As several members pointed out to me during my own build—and based on my subsequent research—these new-era suits weren't actually painted white. That glossy sheen comes directly from the molds the armor was produced from. Achieving that exact factory shine is a bit tricky to replicate, but it's definitely doable. A 1K clear coat will probably get you closest, but to your point about yellowing: it won't entirely prevent it. The chemical compound in 1K clear isn't nearly as robust as a 2K clear, but it should hold off yellowing for a few years. Sun exposure will certainly expedite the process, but even if the armor sits in a plastic tote in your attic, it will inevitably yellow over time. Regarding sanding: the higher the grit you use, the more orange peel you'll remove, but you need to work up through the grits in steps. Since the screen-used suits weren't painted, they don't have true orange peel, though they do have small mold imperfections that resemble it. Normally, wet sanding is followed by a heavy compound and a fine polish. However, if you do a pass with something like 1500-grit and follow it with a lighter, "poor" polish, you’ll likely get closest to the screen-accurate finish you're aiming for. From the SWC22 references, it’s clear this specific helmet was resprayed prior to the show (you can see the overspray on the cheek vents), which actually gives us some great insight into the paint details: Vocoder & Ear Greebles: The vocoder has a slight sheen to it, which I’d argue is a satin finish. Similarly, looking at the lower angles and the shots of the ear greebles, those are also a satin grey (which is why myself and others have used Satin Granite). Forehead Trim: On the screen-used suits, this is technically a matte rubber. However, I think a dusted coat of satin paint mimics the look of real rubber much better than a true flat matte paint. Flat matte is also highly prone to scuffing and scratches. Because of this, some troopers advocate for Plasti Dip here to get that rubberized texture. (I’m currently working with someone to source an accurate rubber trim, as the one TKModder used to import from the UK is no longer available in the States). Hovi Mic Tips: You could probably get away with a matte finish on these, but I opted for a satin coat on my last helmet to tie them into the vocoder. I might switch it up on my next one and try matte just to see how it compares. From this angle, you can clearly see the orange peel on the helmet from the rush respray, which is entirely absent on the chest plate. Because the helmet refresh was done in a hurry, the blue on the vents is a much lighter shade than what we've seen on other reference suits. The Brilliant Blue you're using should get you pretty close. That said, if it's meant to match the blue seen lower on the abdomen armor, it might need to be a shade darker. Technically, the blue section on the screen-used helmets is actually a breathable mesh fabric (as seen in some Kenobi BTS shots), so it’s always going to be tough to perfectly mimic that "texture" on a solid piece of painted plastic. You're doing a fantastic job so far—keep it up!

You could say that again... I probably re-read my own thread once every other week (narcissistic?), and it's been a spiral from then to now. Thanks for checking it out!

This looks incredible Chris! Excited to see once you've gotten some pulls done on this. I think the only thing I noticed (even though you've stated it's missing some details) is the ammo boxes on the right thigh. Otherwise, you seem to have the rest knocked out!

Thank you! For the modeling side of things, I’m absolutely using Centurion/Level 3 as the benchmark. If I’m going to spend the time modeling parts, I figure I might as well aim for the highest level of accuracy I can reasonably achieve. In the meantime, I’m still utilizing a good amount of Mr. Paul’s files for areas I haven’t tackled myself yet, and given the quality of those pieces, I don’t think Centurion is an unrealistic goal at all. Originally, my personal sights were set on basic approval, followed by Expert Infantry down the road. But the deeper I’ve gotten into the references, and with the help of several phenomenal members of the community providing reference photos and feedback, I honestly don’t see a reason not to aim for Centurion from the start. I’ve already ordered all of my soft parts from KeepTrooping (flight suit, boots, gloves, and neck seal), and my E-11 is fully printed and just waiting for assembly and paint, so a lot of the major boxes are already "checked". Similar to what Paul accomplished with the Shoretrooper, my goal is to hopefully create the most accurate 3D-printed Non-Saga/Rogue One TK that I can. Those are some incredibly big shoes to fill, but I think it’s a worthwhile goal—and even if I fall short, the armor will be significantly better than where I started five months ago. At a bare minimum, I feel very confident about reaching Expert Infantry. Centurion is the real target, though, and if all goes according to plan, I’d love to be one of the relatively small number of members who have achieved it with this particular armor variant. Schedule permitting, I’m hoping to submit for Legion approval as late as mid September. We’ll see how many side quests I create for myself between now and then...

Good question! From my last update, I actually ended up completely scrapping the original chest bridges/side wings and remodeling them from the ground up. I’m much happier with where these landed in the long run: As for what’s next, my primary focus right now is the thighs. That’s the biggest piece standing between me and getting my own armor to a point where I can pursue basic approval, so it’s been getting the majority of my attention over the last week and a half. I haven’t modeled the rear cover strip yet, but I wrapped up the front strip last night. Once the rear is finished, I’ll move on to determining exactly how the parts should be split and assembled. The goal is for the front cover strip to function as the overlap piece for the lap joint. While not entirely screen accurate, I also plan to incorporate slots for magnets to aid with alignment during assembly and wear. The rear will follow a similar approach to what we see on screen, with the excess material wrapping behind the rear cover strip and securing with Velcro or a similar fastening method. There’s also strong evidence to suggest the lower trim strip was originally manufactured as a separate component, but very little evidence that it was intended to be removable. For my own sanity—and because I eventually have to wear this thing—I plan to attach that section with magnets as well to simplify alignment and dressing. Current roadmap looks something like this: Finish thigh assembly and rear cover strip Design lower right thigh ammo boxes (and mounting system) Cod armor Posterior armor Shoulder straps 90% complete, but need to tweak them for mounting options Potentially revisit the belt/ammo boxes BigJasoni has some awesome free files available, but I want to address some of the assembly of them Long-term, I also want to revisit the arms, abdomen, and shins. I already have files that work extremely well for those areas, but I have some ideas for improving printability and wearability that will likely become their own separate project down the road. Overall, I feel like things are progressing pretty well. The next couple of weeks are going to be a bit hectic between work and life, so my modeling time is about to take a hit, but I think I’m finally at the point where I can see the finish line—at least for this first round of armor!

ABS is definitely harder to print and causes faster wear and tear on your machine, but the trade-offs are totally worth it in my opinion. M&M Prop Shop is awesome! That's actually where I learned that ABS and ASA are superior to most other materials for these builds. A lot of us use Paul Prentice’s Shoretrooper files ("Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build") for the abdomen, shins, and all the arm pieces. I haven't finished my armor or applied to the Legion yet, so saying "us" is a bit of a stretch, but his files are easily the most accurate ones out there right now. They're the most expensive files I own, but compared to others I’ve bought firsthand (including Akira's), they are absolutely worth the price. Plus, you can always build a Shoretrooper next anyway. Shoulder straps are definitely an interesting obstacle. I’m not sure how strict the GMLs are on TPU-printed straps, but Jason Glisson shared some awesome ones that can be printed in TPU. Akira's straps are also good, but don't offer a range of flexibility if you need to scale them up. The absolute "best" approach would be to print them in a rigid material like ABS, finish them like any other part, and then cast/mold them in rubber so you don't have to worry about layer lines being an issue. Granted, that's a pretty tedious process, so there are always Etsy vendors who sell them already molded in white if you want to save yourself the headache. Unfortunately, the forum has strict file size limits to keep web hosting costs manageable, so your best bet is using an external image hosting site to share photos. A lot of folks used to use Imgur, but since it is now restricted or banned in the UK, Flickr is a great free alternative. I personally use Google Photos because I pay for ample storage, but there are plenty of other free hosting sites out there. If you prefer using mobile apps, WhiteArmor is compatible with Tapatalk, but the exact same image size restrictions will apply there too.

The lacquer paint should hold up longer without clear compared to the enamel paint. You’d probably get an additional year out of it depending on how often you go out and wear the armor.

If you like the Rust-Oleum brand and live close enough to a Home Depot distribution center to get it, I can't recommend their Acrylic Lacquer Gloss White enough (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-12-oz-Acrylic-Lacquer-Gloss-White-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-253364/205762489). It goes down incredibly smooth, and if you do happen to get a run, it is super easy to sand out. Granted, getting a run with this stuff is pretty hard to do, though I've somehow managed to achieve that milestone twice. It costs the exact same as the stock in-store paint, but the unfortunate catch is that it has to be special ordered. Alternatively, as others like Justin/TheRascalKing have suggested, Behr #52 Spray Paint is a great option you can just grab off the shelf for the same price (https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PREMIUM-12-oz-52-White-Gloss-Interior-Exterior-Spray-Paint-and-Primer-B001944/310275621). However, since it is an enamel, it is prone to yellowing over time and will require a clear coat. If you go that route, keep in mind that 1K clears tend to yellow after about a year, whereas a 2K clear will last much longer, generally three to five years in my experience. The only caveat with the 2K clear is that it finishes just a touch shinier than standard R1TK armor. Also, because it's an enamel, you really have to be wary of your recoat windows and sanding down runs, which I've fallen victim to significantly. The saving grace is that Behr's nozzles are really good about preventing runs in the first place, so it is actually pretty hard to screw up. Welcome to the FISD!

Chiming in on ABS filament specifically: it is highly recommended to use an enclosed printer with a heated chamber, as ABS is notorious for warping if there are any temperature fluctuations (and it's off gassing is toxic). I learned this the hard way when printing my E-11 barrel; on my first attempt, I accidentally left the enclosure door cracked after cleaning it, and the rest is history. If you are running an open printer setup, PETG is the gold standard. Regarding costs, prices will vary depending on where you are in the world, but I’ve found that buying in bulk levels the playing field. If you buy a multipack (usually 4 rolls) from SUNLU, their ABS is nearly the same price as their PETG. Right now, I'm seeing ABS at around $12.50/roll (ref: https://a.co/d/06Pljxqf) and PETG at $11.50/roll (ref: https://a.co/d/01gSvQog). That extra $1/roll for ABS is marginal when you consider the added heat resistance, durability, and ease of post-processing (like acetone vapor smoothing). Don't quote me on this, but if the DLT-19 uses the same flashlight style as the Rogue One E-11, you can pick up a functional "replica" light on Amazon here: https://a.co/d/0h83ztIm

Welcome to the FISD! Excited to watch your progress on this build. I saw your comment on Greg's thread about the helmet mods and loved your take on incorporating magnets into the chin piece to make it removable for your glasses—super smart! Enjoy the rabbit hole! Starting with ABS is a wise decision; its durability and post-processing capabilities make it great to work with (just be sure to wear a respirator as it's also super toxic). Just a heads-up that Akira's armor files have a few inconsistencies compared to the CRL, but it's completely workable with some time and patience. As others have said, 3D printing a full suit is a daunting task, but it's that much more rewarding when it all comes together. Take lots of photos!

You're totally right! A lot of the reference I've been staring at are from various angles, so it's "guessing" where the curve is supposed to start and end. How's something like this? I didn't have to modify it too much, as part of the issue was also the angle I got the screenshot from, but this seems to line up a lot better. (Side note: the angle presented has the back being at a 90 degree angle, as it was easiest the model this way vs with the back being angled inward like when worn) I've become a bit snow blind staring at this armor for weeks now. Aside from completing my own R1TK, I'm in no rush to complete this project, meaning I have all of the time in the world to tweak things. :) Appreciate all of the help Glen! I'm sure I'll be reaching out to you for some feedback once I get further along with the thighs...