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I cant load pics because of file size. If anyone is curious my IG Moparfett and I have some pics of my Captain Enoch. Was contacted by Marcus Napuri (guy who built the screen used Enoch) and he said mine was the best he had ever seen. Made me feel pretty good.

Adding the red.....using sprayglue but incase I want to redo it`s just a matter of tearing it off so no worries there.

It was actually Lot#374. The hammer price was $220,000 plus buyers premium.

Looking good

It did fail....Alot. I have no pics at the moment but just watch the prison halway scene and Luke`s shoulder is missing in one cut and back the next.....and in ESB carbon freeze sceen when the Troopers enter, shoulders are at their knees....well..not really but you`ll get the jist oh...and not to mention the Tantive boarding party....shins popping open like they are paid to do that still we build like that cause it`s what they did way back when, I tread carefully in order to look my best when suited up and no armor fails to date...should I go fighting rebels I would need to reinforce the strapping like crazy Anyway, god luck with your build and looking forward seeing you kitted up

Yeah after the show I'm definitely going to fix the thighs, and I definitely will be posting some photos and finishing the touchups to bring it to Centurion. Thanks! (P.S. Thanks for the like Tony! Your build thread for your AM 1.0 and tips and tricks have been super helpful to me over the last two months, I probably wouldn't have been able to get it done so fast without it.)

So last night I finally tried on the entire suit (minus knee armor, spats, and some other details) and this is the first time I'm actually feeling like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. First I couldn't get the shins on, so I tried with everything else. (These are all screenshots from a video because I didn't have anyone taking photos.) I didn't mean for my hair to be sticking out :) Then I finally managed to in slip into the shins and boots, but the shins were not held closed by anything: A few observations: - It's been a recurring problem that the back plate wants to rotate forward. Honestly I think it's partly that the back is very slightly undersized, but I like the way it looks and I also don't want to reprint it, so I'm going to try to make it work. I have some foam to keep the top away from my back, so I'll add some more, but I'm also thinking of adding magnets to keep it attached to the TD plate. It might also resolve itself once I have an attachment between the sides of the chest and back. - Shoulder bells seem way too large - Shins seem a little long/big. Probably could use some more heat shaping, but I'm going to try trimming them down from the top as well. - Some overlap still between thighs and butt (although it's hard to see because my butt plate is black). - How do you all attach the biceps? Is it just the velcro on the gaskets or do you strap it to the shoulder bells? And for your enjoyment, a blooper reel: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tii1HRxApUk737Jw9 Clearly my (temporary) Velcro is insufficient to hold the chest plate on :) There's still a lot of work to do, but I'm feeling excited.

Thanks for the post. Looking forward to seeing the auction albeit a little sad to see it go. Hopefully the hammer price will ease the pain. it’s been a fun ride so far.

At the encouragement of @ukswrath, here is a post I originally made a year and a half ago on the Anovos FB build group, which is handy for all makes of armor, not just Anovos. ABS Paste?!?! WTF is THAT? I've seen variations of this question over and over. So perhaps this will be helpful. ABS paste is homemade glue for your ABS plastic. It literally melts and reforms the plastic into a solid piece, so it's more like welding than gluing. But as the warning phrase "it literally melts..." foreshadows, you should be careful. Making couldn't be easier. Get a GLASS jar. Don't be that person who makes it in a plastic cup. You know... the one that puts plastic melting stuff into a plastic cup. You've met that guy. Don't be that guy. All you need is a jar, some ABS scrap, and some construction grade acetone. Nail polish remover is NOT strong enough, even though it has "some" acetone in it. Pick up a bottle at Home Depot or the like. (For people in other countries, like the UK, where Acetone is not readily available... you have my sympathies) For containers, I feel a glass baby food jar is ideal. It's just the perfect size (unless you doing something epic!), stupid cheap (if you don't already have one somewhere), and easy to work with. I'm going to assume baby food jar, so if you choose a 2 quart mason jar, scale as needed. In general, ABS paste is practically free, other than the price of a tiny bit of Acetone and maybe a buck for a jar of baby food, if you don't have a suitable container already, since your source material is scrap from your own build. (never toss that armor scrap!) A NOTE ABOUT FUMES: Pure Acetone is nasty stuff. You really don't want to be breathing Acetone fumes. A whiff here and there likely won't cause lasting harm, unless you have existing pulmonary issues, but still, do your best to avoid breathing a lot of the stuff. At a minimum, you can end up with a NASTY headache. At worse, you can actually cause damage to your lungs. Use your own level of protection that feels best for you... some want to wear a full respirator (with a volatile organic cartridge), others, like myself, are content to work outdoors and minimize breathing it. (Once the jar is capped, it should be fine to bring indoors.) FILL the jar with the tiniest scraps if ABS you can get. I literally used the curly-que and powdered scrap from under my belt sander, after all my rough cuts, in addition to cutting up a few pieces of scrap into 1/4" square pieces, with scissors. And now the magic. Add approx 1 teaspoon of Acetone (and remember, I'm assuming a baby-food size jar... scale accordingly if you're trying to go big and make enough for your entire squad to build with!). Cap the jar, wait 15-20 min (or more, no worries) and then check on it. Poke it with a stir stick. (You can literally use a stick. Although IMO, a wooden coffee stir stick (free at Starbucks!) is ideal, and Popsicle sticks have their proponents, too, as does the toothpick crew, for detail work.) If you literally do not have a stick, a strong piece of scrap you don't care about will do, just be careful where you set it afterwards. But poke at it. Get an idea where it's going. Then add about 1 tsp more Acetone. Re-cap it again, wait 15-20 min, then check again, and this time, stir it a little more seriously. Note the consistency. You'll probably want to add some more, perhaps 1 more tsp, perhaps less? You may be starting to get a feel for it by now. Let sit for a good 1/2 hr, then check and stir AGAIN. We're going slow. Slow is good. Watch some TV or read a book. You have better things to do than watch ABS melt in super slow motion. At this point, you SHOULD be close to ready to go. If not, I recommend letting it sit overnight before checking it again. (in fact, that's not a bad idea in general, but it's not strictly necessary) Only add more Acetone if you still really think it's too thick and clumpy in the morning, after stirring it some more. Repeat until you reach that magic mayonnaise moment. Correct consistency is *roughly* mayo-like. I'd say somewhere between Elmer's glue (a little too runny?) and Toothpaste (perhaps a little too thick). Too runny = bad. Remember the "melting plastic" part? You don't want that running down your armor. Too thick and you may get air pockets. Shoot for the Goldilocks zone. ) When you're ready, apply with a stick. Let it dry (duration depends on thickness... maybe 20 min, maybe overnight?) and sand it down. Repeat until pretty. Relatively small amounts (read: the small patches that ABS paste is generally best for) should be relatively safe to use indoors, just be aware of the fumes. Larger projects (or sensitive spouses... not that it smells too different from the nail salon, in my mind) are probably best to work on outdoors. The beauty of using the same plastic your armor is made from, to make paste, is you get a dead-on 100% perfect color match. No painting needed! (note: The level of polish/sheen will not be the same, but the color itself will be a match. ABS paste isn't really good for large area applications... and trying to do that will likely end up causing warping from too much acetone anyway) (2nd note: ABS paste is not as strong as the original plastic. It's not actually a glue, even if it looks like one. For connections needing a very strong join, use CA glue, as usual.) (pre-sanding... but note that color match to the Anovos armor!) The paste doesn't really go bad, but eventually it'll harden and you'll need to add more Acetone. Keep it capped, and it'll last longer, of course... you can dry it out quite fast if you leave the cap off for more than a few hours. Future batches you can probably go faster (read: add more acetone, sooner), but I recommend the slow approach when you're starting out, until you have a good feel for it. Good luck!