Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Hi All, Once again, I may have jumped in before fully doing research, and tbh - before I joined this here forum, I bought what I thought would be an fairly good quality lid kit from fleabay - from VT/General Veers whatever you want to call him. The plastic (ABS) is extremely thin in places and the lines are all over the place... I have been looking on here for tutorials on how to build, but I dont seem to be able to find any. I am particularly interested in the line which should cut which is covered by the ears/antenna on both the front plate and rear section... does anyone have a shot of this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT whoops..... I think now, with 2 duds..... i have now learned my lesson.... I will however, make them both, and see what they look like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Mine cam out fine. You can pretty much use most reference from TE and AP builds as a guide. I think the helmet comes somewhat pre-trimmed, so you don't really need to cut much at all as the overlap from the back onto the front will be hidden under the ears. You do need to trim the horizontal brow line all the way to the end of the grey temples, in order for the brow trim to fit properly. After you make sure the brow is straight, line the 2 halves together and tape them together, and make sure it matches the pics from Star wars helmets.com There's even pics of helmets riveted without ears (see below) for reference. http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-st...sub-submenu.htm This is my armor build http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8811 For the helmet, I would suggest riveting the halves before installing the screws, it makes assembly a lot easier and is even screen accurate (even though you never see it from the outside). Just make sure to leave a gap for the helmet trim! Thread discussing these rivets http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=9486&hl= And this is a tip for strengthening the aerator sockets. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8686 Hope that helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Oh, and the cheek tubes near the ears probably have horizontal pinches in them (from vac forming), no? Don't worry, for the most part, they are covered by the ears. I did sand mine down with a Dremel before assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Hey Stephen, There is an easy way to strengthen your helmet, by taking cloth or very thin canvas and soaking it in E-6000. Then wall paper it to the inside of the areas of your helmet that are extremely thin. You said you are having trouble discerning where to trim the cap n back and faceplate on your helmet. Here is a tutorial by Mike TK4510 of him building a TE2 helmet that I up loaded to YouTube. The Helmet he has in the video has some problems on were to cut the cap n back and faceplate and I think it will help you to see the way he does it in the video..... 21 PARTS: 01 movealong Cutting the faceplate : 02 movealong Cutting the faceplate : 03 movealong Cutting the faceplate : 04 movealong Cutting the faceplate : 05 movealong Cutting the faceplate : 06 movealong Cutting the Bumpy Cap n' Back : 07 movealong Cutting the Bumpy Cap n' Back : 08 movealong Cutting the Bumpy Cap n' Back : 09 movealong tools you will need : 10 movealong Cutting the Ears : 11 movealong Cutting the Ears : 12 movealong Cutting the Ears : 13 movealong Cutting the Ears: 14 movealong Mounting the Faceplate to the Bumpy Cap n' Back: 15 movealong Mounting the Ears: 16 movealong Mounting the Ears: 17 movealong Mounting the Ears: 18 movealong Assembly Wrap Up: 19 movealong Spray Painting: 20 movealong Spray Painting: 21 movealong Spray Painting: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-7980 Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 I got a helmet from him for free when I ordered my stormtrooper armor. Not thin at all and is actually very good quality/detail. In regards to your build, you should only have to trim the inside of the cap and back a bit then just fit the face plate to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-7980 Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Cut till the defined line. This side was mostly cut for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 You peeps on here really are stars! Alex - there is no defined line to cut to, i'll upload some pictures to show you Cut till the defined line. This side was mostly cut for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 i dont really have any of these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-7980 Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Hmmm, the pictures don't seem to be showing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Sorry - uploaded to photo bucket now Its the right hand side I am concerned about - does this look right? Also - could anyone give me a guide as to where to cut this back section? Hmmm, the pictures don't seem to be showing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-7980 Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Personally I'd go with the bottom line, that's where I cut mine and I don't have too much of a high brow. Just left the brow as it was pre trimmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Do I need to trim the face plate at all, i.e. sides or top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-7980 Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 I don't think so, maybe a little bit of the top, but only do so after you've test fit everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 as you can see from the face on shot, the face plate has a little kink in it that makes the plate not so rounded on one side, I take when it is all lined up and fitted (Obviously I will have to take the eyes out to enable me to clamp & test) will this then resolve itself? I don't think so, maybe a little bit of the top, but only do so after you've test fit everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Trim it where Alex mentioned. You don't really need to trim the face plate much, just get the brow done first and line things up. Cute the eyes and teeth out and clamp it down. You'll want to grind down the pinches on the face cheek tubes to make sure it matches up with the tubes in the back. Again, before you assemble it, make sure you leave a gap for the brow trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stukatrooper Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 First off not a bad looking lid mate.I have tryed to put in picture style how your face and back go together.hope this helps. I would leave no gap for the brow trim,it will squeeze in.trust me ive made a few lids in my time The other thing you could do (up to you) is send it to one of the reg UK guys on here all are sound blokes and im sure they will build it for you,and i bet my bottom dollar no one would take a penny for there time! You need to match the pictures i have used to see what i have trimmed off the back and cap.The face has been left as is thats fine.I would trim the eyes and teeth before putting the back and face together,good luck with your lid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-7980 Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 GREAT stuff Stuka. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 Fantasic Stukka! I'm sure I will get it together and as I do so it will start to look amazing.... I would send it to one of the other UK guys, but its my baby and I want to do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 as a side note, does TK-4510 know that VT ships his decals with his lids? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperTrooper Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 as a side note, does TK-4510 know that VT ships his decals with his lids? Yes, he posted in another thread that he supplies them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 ahh OK no worries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 ahh OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Think these trim lines are similar to those Stukatrooper suggested Now to move onto the face plate (which i have trimmed so the sides which fit behind the cap n back are the same length on either side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 I used Pandatrooper's recommendations and reinforced the areator sockets with epoxy putty - (£1 - good buy from the GF) Next I am going to coat the inside of the cap 'n' back and the front section with plastidip rubberised paint in black, which should look great (saw it on a post on the FISD but cant remember where please post a link if anyone finds this, or knows where it is) Slowly slowly atm as my 3 month old takes up a lot of time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discharged_Mindriot Posted January 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 I should add, I tried using cloth and glue, but royally messed it up - superglue and ABS dont mix, throw in some rubber gloves and all hell broke loose I advise against using Superglue, blue rubber gloves and cloth with ABS All covered up by the putty now so its not noticable apart from a piece of cloth just above the inside left areator socket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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