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THG Props E-11


Rat

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https://www.starwarscostumeprops.com/listing/281425412/hengstler-400-counter-replica-lens-for

 

also check out this guys stuff. Top notch casting and parts. the counter window part can be bought as it plus other nice options. I want to buy a complete blaster from him someday, but all those parts add up. 

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Thanks that's Gary right? I may shoot him a message about them.

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Just now, Rat said:

Thanks that's Gary right? I may shoot him a message about them.

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I think that’s his name, I only ever use his forum name or Q. 

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I may have a bit of plexi laying around but not sure if it's clear or not.

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Just now, Rat said:

I may have a bit of plexi laying around but not sure if it's clear or not.

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I just used a scrap piece of clear plastic that had the right thickness. Anything will do, just got to have different grades of sanding paper to get that polished finish in the end.

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Just saw this about the counter windows:
 
https://www.facebook.com/?ref=tn_tnmn
Yeah that isn't showing me anything. Could you tell me what group or page it is and I'll look it up?

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Sorry. Probably need access on Facebook. Fieldmarshal Just posted up some news he will start selling the counter windows on his site or eBay page today or tomorrow. Just thought to share the news. Get in touch with him if you still need one of those windows, 

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Sorry. Probably need access on Facebook. Fieldmarshal Just posted up some news he will start selling the counter windows on his site or eBay page today or tomorrow. Just thought to share the news. Get in touch with him if you still need one of those windows, 
Ah, yeah thanks for the heads up and I'll be looking through my possible prospects this coming weekend and see what I have available. If I come up with nothing I may have to do that. Also found your fb page, cool work man.

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Just now, Rat said:

Ah, yeah thanks for the heads up and I'll be looking through my possible prospects this coming weekend and see what I have available. If I come up with nothing I may have to do that. Also found your fb page, cool work man.

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No problem and thanks. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So made use of some two part putty we'll see how it goes. Never used it before so hopefully I did it right.70b556952aa8e03e2c946d1a246e9e6e.jpg

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So I believe I've found a decent enough cocking handle replacement. Thanks the 420 gods, I joke but a friend had a piece of a glass pipe break and this was that piece, not a smoker myself. However it looks decent enough. The salvaging continues.561d327204c5667769756607df3b388a.jpg

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So yeah some updates. Finally decided to replace the tip because the barrel tip was just really jacked up. It was have that jacked up or filled in hex nuts. I went with the filled nuts. Also got a bunch of putty on to rebuild or fill in bad spots. I may have missed some spots, actually I'm sure I did. I also decided to swap out the grip bolt for the real thing I had laying around. Actually found a pair, but they lacked the knurled pattern on the heads.3e69fb84eabeafda547c91836f942d2b.jpgd334d9e2a69e9b815ad6aa3518b4be94.jpg6a9a14285b3d55d081d4b0ecc1f9be71.jpg247c84abd7b0f2a8ff61e0cd6fe5e2af.jpga31ce51f9eadb3cc545504e7808d3f3e.jpg0a2c5ef41fde96fbdf5c0b95ffff3f99.jpg5a51e3688ae8fe40b63fbfe11611bd2e.jpg

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So went ahead and added the power cylinders and D-ring mount. Had to really wrap the cocking lever and it was still a bit loose so added some E-6000 to it we'll see how it goes in the morning.752796a7fad4e11040bb6f9017bdd483.jpg19ae789bc1bfbd468e3f4446e520adff.jpg9f9399c5dd70dee080a01a8f339ad31c.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So quick update. Still need to do some clean up sanding on the charging handle, it's still a bit rough looking. Got the scope and counter primed. Did my best to clean them up, but could not clean up the top rear of the scope and hoping it will be minimized when I paint it. Speaking of paint. The end is the scope are brass and the center is just black right? Was the whole scope brass or just the ends? Now with the counter the side with the counter window was grey plastic and the plug end is brass right?12fedc81c89206b124eb1c060aa69132.jpg1498ba7a03305cf9f58d0317c8ff88e4.jpga512a3ebdc012424c7e74e0c68e6a5b9.jpg30941afe0203510196d7ea2f54d104c6.jpg99cbe49d79df2217eab178cdadb02917.jpg

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Sorry, not meant to sound bad. It appears from the photos the seam line from the two part mold look a bit off perhaps but only a tiny bit. Could just be my eyes. You will know better after you remove those seam lines. 
So in cleaning and repairing I noticed that the very top t-track piece sits ever so slightly to the left.

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7 hours ago, Rat said:

(...)   Was the whole scope brass or just the ends? Now with the counter the side with the counter window was grey plastic and the plug end is brass right?   (...)

 

Scope: The whole body was made from brass and then covered with black paint. The brass is only visible on both sides of the rear foot and because of wear and tear.

 

Counter: Yes, the housing with the window was grey, while the metal socket was cadmium plated (closest color would be brass or gold). The small connector block was black or sometimes grey. Here you can find some references.

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Just as Tino says, scopes were all brass painted black. 

 

As for the top t track, that may have been slightly shifted to the left due to the casting mold or the actual prop track being slightly to the left as it was casted. 

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Scope: The whole body was made from brass and then covered with black paint. The brass is only visible on both sides of the rear foot and because of wear and tear.
 
Counter: Yes, the housing with the window was grey, while the metal socket was cadmium plated (closest color would be brass or gold). The small connector block was black or sometimes grey. Here you can find some references.
Thanks Tino, I have gone through that a couple of times now. I just couldn't recall if the whole scope was brass. The counter part was more for confirmation.

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So what types of screws do I want for mounting the scope and counter?

 

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Small update. Remade the scope rail and did the counter bracket. Redid my D-ring as it seemed a bit too wide. Then finally got to doing something about replacing the rear sights. Finally decided to add some backing/shim material to the Y section of the folding stock to stiffen it up and hopefully keep it in a proper shape when it gets warm as they tend to bend.a045a39b4cc795e1c22879805faf4c61.jpg35abbaadfb9e313c397a8004325790b4.jpg3caadeee5b33953502ffeefc52e0bb9c.jpg203535534379292558d6a1c8b04e11a7.jpg

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10 hours ago, Rat said:

So what types of screws do I want for mounting the scope and counter?

 

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For my blaster I mounted the scope and counter to the rail/bracket with some low profile hex bolts/screws . The original M38 mounting screws were cheesehead screws . I didn’t have anything like that at the time so I went with the hex bolts as the bolt heads allowed enough clearance between the rail and main tube. 

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What length were they?

For my blaster I mounted the scope and counter to the rail/bracket with some low profile hex bolts/screws . The original M38 mounting screws were cheesehead screws . I didn’t have anything like that at the time so I went with the hex bolts as the bolt heads allowed enough clearance between the rail and main tube. 


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I think they were about 8mm, that’s just the threaded shaft length. The cheesehead screws I supply in my scope kits are about 6mm(shaft length). As long as it anchors & secures the scope and counter bracket, anything between 6-9mm should be fine. 

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