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Rogue One Shoretrooper - Droid Built!


FarEast
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On 2/16/2018 at 6:55 PM, themaninthesuitcase said:

This is coming out really well, you've done a great job!

 

I am also doing this build, I still have to print the dome sections but I am out of black filament at the moment.  The face was a tricky part but I got there in the end.  I used the unsupported file and then used the support generated in Slic3r PE.  My biggest issue was the rear bottom edge didn't print cleanly so I am hiving to re-build it with filler, I need to get some bondo for it.

 

If you've not done it already I recommend using the 3.1.0 firmware with Linear Advance, even on slower prints the better corners are worth it.

I'm having a lot of issues right now with the printer miss printing the thin wall sections of the Front armor. It's a real PITA!

 

The top and bottom printed fine but the central middle section just doesn't want to play! I ended up laying it flat on the print bed rather than vertical, I will see how this pans out tonight when I get home.

 

All of the parts for the replacement heater core came plus a few extras so I don't need to worry about down time!

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and with the whole of Saturday gone rebuilding the extruder assembly and calibration I was good to go!

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I also upgraded the nozzles to hardened steel!

Our first catch of the day!

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Sadly the last attempt was on the central middle was going perfectly until I had a piece of filament snap off in the PTFE Hot-end tube and the print failed! I was so gutted! This also meant I had to completely take apart the extruder again and clean out the offending part.

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So back to the grind again!

 

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So while the printer was chugging away I decided to get some paint down - Masking off the mask was a simple task and very therapeutic after the printer fiasco! 

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Hmmmmm. Shoretrooper for Volcanic beaches?

I had contacted Montana Gold directly and was sadly informed that they can't ship the paint to Japan due to the chemicals used in it and that its a low pressure canister. However they did put me in contact with a Japanese supplier of FLAME and gave me a paint code that they said should match.

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NOPE!

To dark, way to dark - however I'm going to leave it as it is a very good base coat and will enable me to use it as preshading in the recessed areas and will add some nice contrast in the worn areas when I come to do weathering.

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So I have discovered 3 simple rules when using PETG with the printer

 

Rule #1: Don't touch the printer!

Rule #2: Don't touch the printer!

Rule #3: Clean the printer head after each print!

 

Also I've started using Slic3r PE rather than Prusa Control.

So yesterday I got home and FINALLY I have a print of the central chest plate!

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Also a huge thank you to member TK8271 Rogue Trooper for sending me the paint matches for the Shoretrooper build! I can now get these mixed to match perfectly!

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As you can see although they probably use the same pigments in the FLAME Paints equivalent the weight is very different! 

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So with the central sections now printed I can bond and see what the sizing is like.

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Excuse the bed hair - it was 4am here and I was more interested in getting the build moving along and the next print file running!

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So the long march continues!

 

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One of the parts wasn't such a good print but probably faster and easier to clean it up with automotive filler than to print another.

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I spoke to Sean Fields about the fit and it turns out that we are about the same build, so hopefully there we be no sizing issues!

 

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So with my samples in hand I headed down to the custom paint shop - they asked me a whole heap of questions regarding the paint and asked if I was ok with them scratching off parts to run through the machine.

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He took one look at the red and grabbed a can of T-16 - 3E5 straight off the shelf, yup they know paint!

 

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Interesting that its HOLTS - although I believe its actually owned by a Japanese company as its huge here.

So after filling in the forms and parting with my Imperial credits they told me that it would be ready in a day unless the weather was bad - they need natural sunlight to make sure that the paint is an exact match!

 

So now I'm waiting for that phone call as its a beautiful day!

 

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Breakfast done and the kids off to clubs went and checked on the printer, last part of the left side was finished.

 

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so immediately cleaned the print bed and set it off again on the last left piece for the armor and also the first right plate.

 

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Fabrication also began, god I love it!

 

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A few more bits came off the printer this morning - and I also got the call from the paint shop!

 

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After a kick drive in to Yokohama I was home in no time and with daylight being in plenty supply I busted out the rattle cans!

 

I had to test each one as they had come loose in the back of the car - so decided to mark them so I wouldn't make any schoolboy errors!

 

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So straight after spraying the tone is a little off however they told me that as it dries it will match perfectly.

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About 30 minutes later the paint is starting to change colour and the match is there!


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The next step was to make the Scarif Logo on the blast shield, I have a Silhouette cutter so I just fired up the software and cut a printing mask out.

 

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I used shield tape to wrap the helmet - the last thing I wanted was Red Toyota paint everywhere!

 

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So with the paint finally cured it was time to get weathering and this stuff comes out at a bit of a rate!

 

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while it was tacky I ran some heavy grit sand paper over it, then once cured fine grit to give it a slightly faded finish.

 

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Due to my other job - I have a whole arrangement of pigments and weathering products at hand so naturally grabbed the following:
 

  • Oil Paints -Blacks, Browns and Beiges
  • Tamiya Panel Line Inks - Black
  • Tamiya Panel Line Inks - Dark Brown
  • Tamiya Panel Line Inks - Brown
  • Mig Weathering - Engine oil
  • Mig Weathering  - Wet Mud
  • Mig Weathering  - North Africa Dust


The trick is to work slowly letting each level dry fully and seal before starting the next. starting with the Darkest first.

 

I'm still waiting on the lens as well as the chin strap, as well as the internal padding.

 

So here is the finished product!

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So the endless march continues -

 

The last parts of the Chest plate finished while I was painting the helmet and I started to put the parts together. Now having looked at other build threads and the reference photos I can see where I'm going to need some re-sculpting and actual cutting and reshaping.

 

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Spiders!

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I after bonding one of the side strips that go on the bottom ends, I had to cut them off as from the photo references there is a considerable step between the two plates.

 

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Also the central line between the two rectangles on the central plate will need to increased to about 1cm and also the gap on the left and right sides of them - finally I'll also need to add a square in the central line.

 

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Not really a problem for any of those sections - although I think it would have been an easy fix in the 3D files.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So some parts finally came for the helmet and printer so I was able to get some work done on both.

 

I started off with a motorcycle bubble lens but due tot he safety requirements trying to heat these to shape pretty much results in them melting.

 

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So after an unsuccessful attempt at getting it in to the helmet I went and picked up some Clear Smoke PVC.

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This can be heat to just 50c and bent into shape so a hairdrier with the air intake partially blocked will do the trick!

 

After cutting to shape I then used Bluetac to hold it in place at either end of the eye slits and took the hairdrier to it - when pliable I then bent the tops over the brow and glued the bottom in with clear hot-glue.

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I also installed the chin strap with three holes - now this is nylon and the initial painting just flaked off - Sharpie for the WIN!

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The final task for the evening was to position the internal padding and check the fit to see if there was any areas on the inside that might require sanding back or smoothing,

 

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Just a  simple case of masking tape folded in half to stick them in.

 

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Eyes obscured - Check!

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So with the bucket complete its time to work on the upper torso and back!

The first task was to correct the minor details in the build to make it more screen accurate.

 

First of the easy one - the armour needs to flick up a little higher at the ends.

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As well as making the lines to the front of the armour more straight rather than curved

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A bit of automotive filler and a bit of sanding and its all good!

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Next step was a little harder and that was to widen the slots on the front blast plates.

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Some serious cutting and dremel work needed!

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More sanding then followed by a heavy coat of black automotive primer.

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I let this cure for several days as I wanted it to be fully hardened ready for the base cot of Beige Brown.

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Again I let this cure before applying the Sahara Beige.

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After more waiting for curing and a little light sanding to remove drips and thickness differences it was to apply the Nordic blue markings.

 

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annnnnnnd more waiting!

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Very happy with the finish however this is way to clean!

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So now it was time to move on to the arms, Shoulder bells, Biceps, forearms and hand guards.

 

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The forearms went together very nicely - left no post processing, right ready for paint.

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The fit was perfect on the right arm but due to my accident the left forearm was a very tight squeeze but with a bit of sanding on the inside all was good!

 

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The hand plates I increased the size by about 2% as I have large hands - again it worked out pretty good - just need the gloves!

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Both biceps received a base of Sahara Beige

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Then the right side got the Toyota red treatment

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The shoulder bells were a real PITA to print but I got there in the end!

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From here it was just a matter of painting, weathering and distressing.

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Also making sure everything fitted correctly!

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So the last piece to bring the build log upto date was the backpack - Now first of all I want to say a BIG thank you to Paul Prentice and Stoo Collins whom really helped me out with a lot of the additional detailing and without them this part wouldn't be what it is - the upgrades are relatively easy to make with the right tools and materials so I'm hoping this helps others who are building Sean's incredible armour to tweak theirs - I'm potentially going for a Level II grade armour so hopefully these upgrades won't be in vain.

The two backpack parts took an insane amount of time to print mainly due to all the support structure but I'm glad I took my time!


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Finished one!

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And on to the next!

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The parts beautifully mesh together.

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A few defects but those will be sorted out with automotive body filler.

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The edges seemed to finish within minutes compared to the backpack!

 

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More filling!

 

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But finally I had a complete backpack - I  was a little confused where to go from here but it kind of started to make sense after looking at the cutting template and such.

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First things first were the small details on the backpack - holes, raised parts and indentations

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The should harness mounts have two indentations at the back on either side so I decided to remove the mounts and start again.

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Stoo Collin's recommended that I add two more additional details to the build - the most significant being that the side stripe continues up and over the top of the backpack. So to do this I made a mask of the top of the backpack.

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I then transferred the tape to 0.3mm Tamya PlaCard and cut out so that I would be about 5mm short from the edge and the remainder was trimmed to fit so as to create the lip.
 

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All of it was bonded with superglue.

The bottom of the backpack has a much larger plate that is clearly visible in many of the photos of the movie costumes. I went about this in the same manner

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Once the glue has cured it was given a light sanding and then primed ready for the base coat.

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Last part to make were the backpack greeblies - again many thanks to Lance who pointed out that the boxes were actually angled.

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Also several of the parts required some attention to get the shape correct.

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Lot of little parts all available from Sean Field's files

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Chop - Chop!

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Primed and ready to go!

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry for going dark on this build - lots and lots have been happening on it and just didn't have enough time to update it!

So the next step was to get the shoulders and strapping to movie accuracy! Que - Paul Prentice who offers the most accurate models on the market!

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So the first job of the day was to sand back the paint and build a ramp to launch the strapping so it leans over at an angle and also a new mount with raiser for the buckles.

This was achieved by making a frame using off cuts of PETG plastic sheet and then filling it with automotive filler.

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Once cured it was sanded to shape, repainted and the strapping attached at the front with bond.

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As you can see the angle is perfect and swoops up and over the shoulders and tucks into the slots on the back plate

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The buckles and foam were then attached to the sides of the armour and weathered.

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Next up was the hard belt -

The thermal detonator and pringle can were up scaled to 108% from Sean's original as they were too small in comparison to the movie props. Again I have to thank Paul Prentice who diligently researched this and with those finished assembly and modifications could begin.

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The hard belt needed to be shaped to meet the contours of the armour and it turned out that my recycling bins in the kitchen were a perfect match!

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The thermal detonator was modified using 0.2mm Tamiya PlaSheet and then CA glued into place.

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The same was done for the strap line on the Pringle can as it would sit too low on the hard belt if done the original way. Also additional detailing was added to the top of the can - apparently there are two types of detailing from reference photos and I opted for this one.

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Let the painting begin!

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Next on the list was attaching the ammo boxes from Paul Prentice to Rob Kittel's amazing belt and buckle system.

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The hip armour was built using the templates provided by one of the awesome members seantrooper - many thanks for sharing this with the community!

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Because I was unable to get a long roll of plasizone I had to get creative and hide the breaks behind the armoured plates.

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1mm Plaplate was added on areas that would take the snaps and also accessories as these would prevent damage to the plastizone if they got caught on anything or through general wear and tear.

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(I will be reprinting the cyclinders as it turns out the body is too long in comparison to the movie armour.

Once everything had cured it was time to hit it with more Sahara Beige and then connect it all together!

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(Please note that the front of the hip armour has been deliberately left open - I'm reprinting the adbominal armour and can't cut and bond to size until I have a finished piece!)

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Also today I got two LBB (Little Brown Boxes) of softparts!

The undershirt is made by Sheev's Emporium and regarded as the most accurate undershirt and neckseal currently available.

The shoes are through Katherine Partis in the UK who supplied the originals to the set, so these are the real deal!

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  • 4 weeks later...

So on with the build,

 

I decided the next step would be the greaves - I had to slightly increase the size of these due to having large calves from my days as a cyclist.

 

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Next I went to work on Paul Prentice's awesome buckles; cutting out the back and sanding them smooth.

 

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Then I lopped through a section of his straps and bonded in to place.

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Also due to the support required I went back to using automotive filler rather than wood filler.

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My local hardware shop had a 30% sale on so not only did I pick up a new batch of Montana Gold Sahara Beige, but also a new paint gun and air compressor!

Painting armour is now going to be so much easier!

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Also my Rebel Art Base shoretrooper trousers arrived - WOOT!

Now time for distressing and then weathering!

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And so did I!

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