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MoSc0ut

W.T.F. ANH Stunt build WIP

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Since the ends were sticking up I grabbed my rubber mallet and tapped the ends down almost flush.

 

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As you'll see later, I did this a few more times throughout the build and got it looking even better.

 

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All of the bolts installed.

Edited by MoSc0ut

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Next I used the same scrap wood and lined up the straps where I wanted to bend them, made a light pencil mark, in case they moved, and bent away! Pretty rudimentary but it works! Then to get a tighter bend I used a C clamp and a shop towel and made the bend tighter.

 

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I had to trim a bit off the ends of the straps as it was looking a bit long, then added the small flare on the end. I referenced pictures of actual TD's online and freeze framed my SW blu-ray for how these should be bent back and there are a lot of variances of how these look. I think mine is pretty dang close to how it should look. I'm sure it's not perfect to some but there are also A LOT of much crappier examples out there too!

 

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So I tapped on the ends, after trimming off 1/4" off each end as I had it 8" long and the CRL says "around 7 1/2".

 

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I'm calling that done!

 

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and I couldn't resist doing this as I have yet to do the belt!

 

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How's it look? (My TD, not my butt.)

Edited by MoSc0ut

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More trimming and even some fitting and gluing done! 6508d0f9713e3a3d316522d31cd27d3b.jpg5147249453c164b3543ac78d51a54ceb.jpg1339dbeb80203dd8246be1b2f743b656.jpg688b14b2cbb14b75b40fbeb78710e35c.jpg Yep! It's going to fit! fe2b5067b2e6801f4377d44a814fc666.jpg

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d672688ca3fb6d361fe41cd8bdd824b1.jpg

 

Making the edge of the table useful by hooking the open side around the edge.

 

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*keep in mind the test fitting pictures are in the mirror. Now time for some glue.

 

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Using 15mm cover strips for the arms. One slid on me as the e6000 was setting so I'll have to redo that. But all and all it's moving along.

 

Edited by MoSc0ut
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While the glue was drying I heated up some water and bent the shoulder straps and trimmed, cleaned up and painted the ab button and covers for the belt snaps.

 

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These were easier to score and snap from the inside as are many other parts on this armor.

 

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Here is how I went about forming my shoulder straps. Detailed description below.

 

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*edit* Based on the photos I've been studying the front part seems to be straight then it curves in the middle over the top of the shoulder then it straightens out a bit on the back, I also wanted it to lay down on the back of the armor a bit better. I'll also be adding a "fuzzy" piece of white Velcro on the back part so it doesn't scuff the back armor as I am moving around. I got the water up to boiling then pulled it off the heat. Then while holding it in basically the shape I wanted it I dunked it in until I started to feel the plastic "give" then I moved to the sink and ran it under cold water so it held its shape. Being that the plastic seems to be a bit thinner here due to the vac pull I was scared to fully immerse it for too long. I think total time in the hot water was maybe 10 - 15 seconds. By holding it, I really had a feel for when it was becoming pliable. 

 

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Slow and steady for the painting of ab buttons. All those years of painting miniatures is paying huge dividends during this build.

 

I've got to say, remembering to take pictures while working on this is the hardest thing for me to remember!

 

I just get going and don't want to stop! 


Jim

Edited by MoSc0ut
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Perfect arm placement, right above the elbow and right below

Thanks for the feedback. I see so many variations out there. I went with what I thought looked right. Now I can get onto gluing the rest of the strips in place!

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When in doubt, refer to the great references here and browse the Centurion approved threads.

Absolutely! White Armor has endless resources! I can't even tell you How many times I thought I had it figured out I stumble across better guidance. I think I'd purchased 3 different sizes/types of ear screws before finally landing on UKswrath's ANOVOS helmet rebuild and there was like a 20 post discussion that got me to the right ones!

 

Great work so far Jim!

Thanks! Between family, work and granting wishes for Make-a-Wish Oregon, time to work on this is a bit randomly sprinkled in there somewhere. I'm usually posting progress during breaks at work the day after!

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Been a few days since last post. Here is what I've been up to:

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Oh boy more trimming!

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I also have been going through my older posts and fixing them on the computer. Posting from Tapatalk does some bad stuff to your thread when viewed on the computer if you're not careful!

 

 

Jim

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Forearms and biceps done. So my plan is to NOT strap up the forearms. I met with a few troopers this last weekend who just use a fair amount of foam inside to make them snug. They then are able to take them on and off in order to adjust snaps and such. One even has a little place to keep her cell phone there! I thought this was brilliant and am totally going to copy that.

 

Speaking of storage can anyone share any creative things they do with car keys and such when trooping? (Other than having a handler.)

 

 

Jim

Edited by MoSc0ut

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Trimming thighs and calves. Making 20mm cover strips too. I will be doing the test fitting Monday with help from my son. Mother's Day and my wife asked for "no Star Wars" today. I may need a few beers to get through not being able to work on my TK as it's getting so close now!

 

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Jim

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Well I was going to fit the legs last night but this arrived:

 

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I have been wanting to work on my belt. I am pretty handy with the sewing machine and I had an idea to improve on one of the How to's here on making these.

 

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First the materials. Canvas, thin plastic sheet, cutting mat, measuring tape, cutting wheel, metal rulers and a pencil.

 

After measuring me + armor + a little for margin of error = 51"

 

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Strip of plastic measures to 2 1/2" wide. It was only 47" long.....I can make that work! This is to give the belt rigidity so it doesn't have to go all the way around. You'll see later.

 

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Canvas measured 3 1/2 inches ( 3" with a 1/4" seam allowance either side )

 

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Lines and cutting and .....my break is over. I'll finish this when I get home in a couple hours.

 

 

Jim

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I'm back.

 

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Sewing the 1/4" seam allowance. Those little lines by the sewing foot are measurements if you align the foot all the way one way or the other and check with your ruler you can use the line as a guide to make a nice straight seam.

 

Don't see the ends shut this is bery important for the next step.

 

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Next you have to invert the whole thing. I used a long dowel to work it through.

 

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It turns out all wrinkled up so next is ironing it flat. Make sure to press it all the way to the seams.

 

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Perfect, 3" wide.

 

 

Jim

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Here's where my phone died so I couldn't get pictures last night. But I'll do the best by pointing at the finished product.

 

So your going to open up 10 inches of the seam on each side. Then fold back the half you're not going to attach the Velcro to. Sew on your Velcro.

 

When you wrap the belt around you the loop (fuzzy) side should be pointing in, towards the armor, and the hook side out. From pictures the belt should overlap clockwise. It should look something like my crap illustration here:

 

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Once you have the Velcro on you're going to sew a seam down the edge.

 

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Close up one end by folding the cut end in and press with iron then sew it shut.

 

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Insert the plastic into the other end then sew it shut too.

 

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Here's a before and after, with / without the plastic.

 

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Jim

Edited by MoSc0ut
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Here's the trimming sanding and adding the angles to the plastic part of the belt.

 

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And the drop boxes....

 

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I attached the plastic belt with rivets after attaching line 24 snaps for attaching to the armor.

 

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These will be switched out for popper snaps soon but I have my first troop coming up in a few weeks and this needs to be done soon so I can submit.

 

Fast forward a bit >>

 

Competed belt. Holster held on with Chicago screws. By the way a huge shout out to Pixelito from the Cloud City Garrison for the holster. This is the ANOVOS hosted that he didn't use in his build. He sent it to me at the low low cost of $FREE.99!! I keep trying to ask him what I can send his way as a thank you and he keeps kindly ignoring my offers. Troopers helping Troopers. Man I really enjoy this community!!

 

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Tomorrow, legs.

 

Jim

Edited by MoSc0ut
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Well it has been a few days but I've been busy.

 

I'm skipping all the rough trimming and trimming of the front of the thighs to 10mm each side. This of course accommodates the 20mm cover strips.

 

My main concern was sizing and the backs of the thighs. So once I finished adding the front inner and outer cover strips (here is a picture of the inner)

 

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I stepped into each one and blue taped my self into them. I played with this for a bit until they were feeling as comfy as possible and I was still able to get my feet though the lower opening without too much trouble. I also looked in the mirror and held them next to each other to ensure that visually the were proportional.

 

I then used my pencil and held it across the mid point from the and the bottom and made a little tic mark. This is to make sure the rear cover strip is straight up and down and centered on the back of the thigh. The picture here is of the calf but the same concept as I forgot to take a picture when I was doing the thigh.

 

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I then clamped my ruler to the thighs (calves the same way) and drew a line.

 

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Inner cover strip going in.

 

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Completed thigh. This is the right as it is the most impressive. :)

 

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Double cap rivets for Centurion. Before and after paint.

 

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Jim

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In doing the calves remember the front cover strip is 20mm where as the backs are 25mm. I almost messed this up. I switched to CA glue halfway through doing my arms after a bicep fell apart during a hot water bath to fix the shape. E6000 + hot water = pieces floating in your pot. This was after a week of curing too. As long as you're careful with CA glue and measuring everything at least 4 times before committing it is way faster.

 

Anyway, the calves:

 

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As there is a bit of a curve to the front of the calf, side to side, I did a 2 part inner strip. The longer poked out to the side a bit as seen above. It was sanded to be even so it wouldn't cause the outer side to not line up.

 

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On one of the sides the part that comes over the ankle is much more dramatic that the other. I trimmed it some to line up prior to the outer strip.

 

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Test fitting of the legs.

 

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Wait a second....... Put your dang boots on fool!

 

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That's better.

 

* By the way all cutting was done after this test fit.

 

I hope to get to doing the calf closures tonight. I'm going the traditional route with the hooks and elastic. So it's more hot water baths tonight to get them to close right before installing elastic with E6000.

 

Edit: Yes the left outer bottom calf is getting trimmed up and here is a preview of what's coming for those unsightly mistakes.

 

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I don't plan on filling every crack as some do. If they didn't do it for the movies, it won't be happening here.

 

This is because I trimmed my ab plate a bit too much. This will be used to add to the kidney. The cutouts on Walt's kit are closer to 12mm deep by 20mm tall instead of the 20x20 that they should be. Adding 15mm each side will give me enough to fit my 33" waist into and still close up the sides for Centurion. (Yes I know, it doesn't add up to 20mm but I figure 5mm extra each side in case of any "oops", plus I have to trim a bit to make it straight up and down before I start adding back.)

 

Jim

Edited by MoSc0ut

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Sorry the next several posts are duplicate posts thanks to a glitch with Tapatalk on my phone this morning. I apologize and will try to make use of these bogus posts by filling them in with good build info. 

Edited by MoSc0ut

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I had a few folks ask what I used for my lens template. So in order to make use of one of the duplicate post spaces here is the template if you would like to have it!

 

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I'll add it as a .pdf too, when I get home.

Edited by MoSc0ut
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Here are some other resources that I used during the build:

 

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Edited by MoSc0ut

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This is a good reference pic too but ignore the darker blue. French blue is the current "correct" color.

 

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Edited by MoSc0ut
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If you were as curious as I was about the lineage of the different armor and helmets this is a great reference.

 

2df1c28505a9962f06b7f9d9ea7b1e63.jpg

Edited by MoSc0ut

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Here is a great visual on how you should shim the kidney if you need more circumference.

 

Basically the cut out or notch needs to stay aligned with the he posterior. Due to Walt's armor being a little "bumpy" as the kidney reaches around I trimmed some of this bumpiness, actually a bit too much if you've been reading my thread and had to add some back on here. It worked out for the better as the ABS on my pull was a bit inconsistent with thickness and I was worried about durability in regards to holding the rivets over time.

 

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Edited by MoSc0ut
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