astrocling Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Hi guys, Thought I would go ahead and join the party. Got my AM 2.0 kit today, unboxed, unwrapped, smiled, set everything out, smiled a little more, I am super excited. Started off with the helmet a bit. Got the cap and back glued together, and clamped. I am using E6000 for the build, so I will have to wait until tomorrow to go any further with that. My next challenge is sizing and working the arms. Starting with the forearms, and I have run into some questions. It is pretty clear which two pieces go together, they really only fit with their correct mate. What I am wondering is which one is left and which one is right. I have seen some other posts that have left me confused. Here is what I have: 12 Dimples matches with the big U in the bottom piece (Is this the right side?) 11 Dimples matches with the straight backed bottom piece Which one is left and which one is right? I didn't want to go any farther without checking first. Looking forward to putting this together, and super grateful to have people like those here to help make sure I am on the right path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted September 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 I knew I forgot to mention something. I need stronger magnets I think. Any suggestions, will a bigger neoden magnet be stronger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 (edited) clamps. harbor Edited September 30, 2015 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted September 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Ohhh... Aren't those spiffy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Check out some of the other AM2.0 build threads for help determining the pieces. You can get some rare earth magnets off amazon for cheap or home depot/lowes if you're impatient like I am. I use clamps, painters tape, and rare earth magnets. Good luck with your build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Ok, so I have a lot of progress so far. I have the arms formed up and fitted. The glue is drying on the snap plates for them now. I have the helmet completed as well. I have a couple of question that have come up in the build so far. First, my biceps seem bigger than the opening in the bicep. It isn't that I trimmed too much off, I think that it is more of a shape issue. Anyone have any good ideas on how to reshape the bottom of the bicep opening to get it a bit wider? Second I am starting to look at the chest/ab armor. This is where my biggest concern was because of my size. I am not small. Since Troopergear assured me that we could make this work without problem I went ahead. I test fitted some of the pieces today and I have a pretty good gap in the ab plate between front and back. I want to start prepping now, is this something I should be concerned with and if so what should I be thinking about doing here? It is maybe an 1"1/2 to 2" on each side. I'll post some pics of my finished helmet here too for any feedback. I had a heck of a time with the left ear. I ended up having to heat up the inside of the helmet and push it out to get it to fit. I still have some gap in the back, but I am reaching the end of my heating and reforming comfort level, so I am probably going to press that problem to someone local and see if I can get some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Gap is normal and is accurate. You may want to clean up around the vocodor and teeth some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingnut65[Staff] Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 From what I've been told, the biceps are not formed correctly and will need a boiling water bath to get them to be comfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Well it is good to know that it isn't just me. I have heard of people boiling things to reshape them. Is there any tutorial on the boards or more information on that here somewhere. Anyone have any suggestions? One of the things is that I already have the pieces glued. Do I need to unglue them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ein Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 I haven't seen any of the threads I follow with our kit having to boil anything but I myself have had to trim and sand most pieces a lot . Not sure if you've seen Navajo Bro's building thread but he has the 2.0 AM armor and breaks down things into details and has lots of pictures. I look to double check my work with his. I also look at other builds with the 2.0 AM kit to see all the different options. I find if when I am assembling some pieces to only look at the 2.0 AM threads, This is that thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32531-navajo-bros-am-20-stunt-build/ Also, as per your concern with the ab/kidney not joining. This guy's thread shows how he added shims. In case you want to check it out, http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31648-arent-you-a-little-fatshort-for-a-storm-trooper-rt-mod/ Happy Building! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artshot Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 As I am at the Biceps point of my own AM 2.0 build (just need the outer cover strips), I am thinking there going to need some reshaping to turn the slight squarish oval into a more comfortable shape. I had to boil my forearms slightly to reshape the wrist openings, I did it after all the cover strips had been glued on, the boiling water did not effect the glue, just had to go slowly to let the ABS bend and not force it, you could pop the cover strips if you apply to much force. I noticed a slight memory to the ABS, so if you have to redunk in the boiling water it may try to go back to its original shape. Dunking in the cold water helps to set the piece in it's new shape, of course trying to not boil my hands was also a challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Thanks Artshot. Glad I am not going to have to pull those apart. How long did you leave them in the water? How soft do you let it get? I know when I reshaped the helmet/ear area, I had some stuff get soft and collapse on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artshot Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) Hey Bruce I was following the builds of "Kredal" & "Ukswrath" when I started looking for how to boil my forearms, I cannot remember how long I left it before reshaping, but both of the mentioned builds will help. I do remember by the time I got around to reshaping, both forearms had been glued for about 3 days, which gave a nice solid bond to start with. My main advice is that you reshape slowly, let the ABS take the shape, don't force it, don't let the ABS get soft, just pliable. Edited October 7, 2015 by Artshot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Brilliant! Thanks for the help. I did have one glue joint be not so happy. My biceps have been curing since Sunday so they were pretty well set. Just a little rework on that joint and I think I am good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 So as I am working on finishing up the helmet last night I noticed that the screws are extremely long compared to what they need to be. Do most people leave them that length, or get shorter, or cut them off? Seems like I scratch my head with them when I put the bucket on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Get a sharpie or something and mark them, then remove them from the bucket and cut them. You can cover it with a rounded nut or glue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Cool, I didn't know if that would cause problems down the road. I will have to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 I think I have scars on the side of my neck and face from trying on my bucket in joy when I first built it. Just leave enough for you to mount the sheet of green plastic if that is the way you plan on doing it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted October 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 Ok I have made a lot of progress over the last week. The bucket is done. The arms are done and strapped (I have to finish the bells connection to the shoulders yet, but we will call it pretty much done. I have most of my connections/snap plates done on the torso. I got a first fit of the torso today, and I am marginally happy. I know I am big and that this will be a challenge to fit correctly, but it is still frustrating when that comes into play. I also have 1 calve done, that was a pain in the butt to fit correctly. It is drying hopefully tomorrow I will get the first finished look at that. That leaves me with a couple of questions, and the need for some advice. 1 - Snaps, why are they so hard to snap? What in the world am I doing wrong. They look clean, but my gosh I don't think I will ever be able to snap any snap on my kit myself. Am I doing something wrong? 2 - Return edges on the torso. In the pic below you can see the return edge. I am thinking that this needs to go. Would that be accurate? I have gotten such mixed messages on return edges and keeping them or cutting them searching the boards that I am not sure where to go next. Last I am hoping someone can help me see if I am on the right track with the torso fit. I have some concerns, I am wondering if they are valid or I even need to worry about them. My goal here is to get basic approval. Then work on fine tuning the pieces over time. Below are some pictures. Thanks in advance for the help. I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 Leave the torso return edge. If you're doing the original strapping method, you need the extra meat. I also think it gives the armor that extra depth and looks best left intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrocling Posted October 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 What about on the cod piece in the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 I removed the return edge on my cod piece because it was rubbing. Some of the return edges, such as your thighs and calves, will need to be reduced/removed as you wear the armor and find pinch points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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