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Ryth_'s WTF build


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Here's a critical question.

 

My ab and kidney got some flesh left. You can see the mold line up close.

But if I remove this, it will leave a inch or so as a gap. I leave it, and it's closed.

 

What do people do? 

 

Someday I'd like to try for EIB and Cent.

 

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Cut the return edge off between the two sections. They're designed to come together flush.

 

As with many other troopers, if doing this leaves you with a significant gap between the two you'll have to add a shim (generally made of cover strip material) to bring your gap to a minimum or 0.

 

Edit: You could leave a minimal return edge on the kidney side however, if there's a gap created by removing the ab return edge and a shim is still needed to be added, you're better off removing the kidney return edge so the shim can be installed accurately.

 

Hope I'm making sense.  :blink:

Edited by ukswrath
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It's done, all gone. Boooh. Yes, I understand. But it shouldn't be necessary for me to shim, in theory.

 

Will be doing the final test fit when I measure where to put side plates, but also mark where split rivets will be placed,

so they won't crash.

Edited by Ryth_
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They see me strappin, they haitin...

 

Split rivets are on the left side, right?

 

 

 

Correct, split on the left. Here's a template for you.

 

splitrivetplacement.jpg

Edited by ukswrath
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Thanks mate!

 

Does this seem correct? 15mm from top, and 15mm from cod. Split the difference for the middle one.

 

d65f1a93-5739-493a-bca4-11cb364251f9_zps

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It's supposed to be 10mm from the top and bottom, and 10mm in from the edge , and then split the difference for the middle one.  If it's reinforced on the back, there should be no problem with stress.

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It's supposed to be 10mm from the top and bottom, and 10mm in from the edge , and then split the difference for the middle one.  If it's reinforced on the back, there should be no problem with stress.

 

Actually Josh there is no definitive measurement from the top or bottom, just a guesstimate. If you look at actual screen shots they're all over the place, though 10mm is most commonly seen as you've mentioned. The only required measurement is the 10mm from the side, and that the rivets be evenly spaced. 

 

To be honest I'm more concerned about this line being straight before making any measurements.

 

d65f1a93-5739-493a-bca4-11cb364251f9_zps

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I'll look into that ukswrath!

 

Also, I took the 15mm measurement from Troopermaster. I'll find the source for that in a jiffy.

 

edit: here we go. Took it from the split rivet placement-thread.

But I'll use som ref.pictures for the final touches.

 

 

As a rule of thumb, I go 15mm from the top of the ab plate to 15mm up from the bottom and split the difference. The overall distance is usually 114mm from the top rivet to the bottom, with the middle being 57mm. On TM and original ANH armour, there is a line scribed into the ab plate where the rivets should be placed. This line is approximately 10mm in from the edge of the armour. Offer up your kidney plate and mark out the adjacent rivets. Job done  :)

 
Edited by Ryth_
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I'll look into that ukswrath!

 

Also, I took the 15mm measurement from Troopermaster. I'll find the source for that in a jiffy.

 

edit: here we go. Took it from the split rivet placement-thread.

But I'll use som ref.pictures for the final touches.

 

No problem sir. Note keywords "As a rule of thumb"  :duim: 

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No problem sir. Note keywords "As a rule of thumb"  :duim: 

 

This will be my guide for placement. The downer in this part is that my drills battery is shot. So I guess I'm borrowing a drill in the next armor workshop.

 

Weird that the side of the armor would be so crooked, since I followed the lines in the mold. D:

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This will be my guide for placement. The downer in this part is that my drills battery is shot. So I guess I'm borrowing a drill in the next armor workshop.

 

Weird that the side of the armor would be so crooked, since I followed the lines in the mold. D:

 

I know RS and TM are unique in some areas compared to other armors. I would encourage you to look at RS Centurion request threads and follow their lead. 

 

EDIT: Here's a request thread you can take a look at. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31401-tk-44228-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-rs164/

Edited by ukswrath
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Now, make two extra snap straps between what is soon to be split rivet straps.

Need to keep that fat in place.

Edited by Ryth_
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Now, make two extra snap straps between what is soon to be split rivet straps.

Need to keep that fat in place.

 

I've built armor for others that needed a bit of assistance holding things in place without using a girdle. Solution, double up on 3/4" elastic and make it about 1" shorter than needed. Can you say Ohhhhh Yeaaaa!   :peace:

Edited by ukswrath
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1. Adjusting straps

2. Connect shoulders to bicep and arms

3. Connect this to armor

4. Work on thighs

5. Work more on calfs

 

 

======= Today =======

 

Evening out straps. A bit crooked here and there, but mostly caused by the shoulder straps not being done.

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Anyone that could help me out with the measurement for the return edge on shoulder bridge cover? :)

 

 

8897b4a8-eb8e-40eb-90d8-7fa722083bb4_zps

Edited by Ryth_
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^

Whilst waiting for measurements on shoulder bridge return. Here's some pictures of fitting.

 

So far I think I should close in the shoulder strap. It's about 80mm now.

Note that I'm missing one strap on the right side between back and kidney. It's being refitted as we speak.

 

Is the back too far down? How much neck should be "visible".

 

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Thanks guys!

 

I've noticed these ridges are a bit different on mine (different to AP, ATA etc.)

So a straight line will be a challenge. But what I can see from that picture, it's about 1-2 mm.

 

 

One nervous guy with scissors inc.

Edited by Ryth_
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