jhpeyto Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 So this is my first TK build, or any costume really, so I figured I'd go with the ANH Stunt as that seems the most basic. I ordered the NE kit from TrooperGear and feel pretty impressed with it so far. I want to start with the arms then work my way down, saving the bucket for last. I know this will take me weeks, if not months so I am ready for the long haul. I don't really want to start making cuts till I am positive I am doing this right. So any advice & answers would be appreciated!Question 1: Are these parts labeled correctly? (I used N8dog's father/son thread as a reference, thanks N8dog!) Question 2: I see a lot of references to ridges and my arm pieces have none to speak of. The sides are smooth all the way down. So as far as cutting them, am I just shortening them down (equal parts cut off each side) to comfortable room around my arm with a 15mm covering strip? Question 3: The total length of the pieces don't seem to be equal, if I line up one end perfectly the other end has some extra sticking out. Is this just something I would trim and sand? Question 4: The return ridges, the "lip" around the ends of the pieces, they should all be removed? Thanks for any help! I will post updates as I progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabyre Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Hi Jayson, I am working on the same kit, and am currently working on the forearms and biceps as well. This is my first build, so some more seasoned veterans might be able to better direct you. As I can tell you are correct in both question 1 and 2. Question 3, line up the elbow end evenly, then trim any extra off of the wrist end. Question 4, the return edge on the wrist end of the forearm should be completely removed, if you intend to shoot for centurion, the rest is up to you for comfort and sizing. Myself, I removed all of the edges on the biceps and wrist end of the forearms. I plan on leaving as much as possible on the elbow end of the forearms as possible. I intended to leave the edges on the tops of the bicep as well, but had to remove them to get them to fit correctly. A more experienced builder might have better suggestions. I hope this helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Your forearms do have ridges but only on top. The underside should not. Align them at the elbow side. The wrists will be flush with no return edge. Just flat across the front. The biceps will align themselves regarding what halves go together. Just make sure the one with the "thumbprint " is on your left arm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter[TK] Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Jayson, On my NE, there were no ridges on the forearms either, all smooth plastic. It made it a little more challenging but still doable. Here's how I handled mine if you're interested: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29634-mutters-ne-anh-stunt-build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Starting with the cover strips, 15mm wide. For the return edge I got most of it with the scissors, then used a dremel to sand down the rest. I'm fairly happy with the result. Test fitting, I have a lot wiggle room to move my wrist around once my hand is through. However it's getting tight on the bicep end. I figure if I remove the return edge that'll give me more room on the bicep end.Question 5: Do I need to angle my cut to make the wrist smaller? And lenghtwise it seems tight if I were to bring my forearm up. I think with the bicep there will be clipping. Question 6: If I need to trim the length down to make the forearms shorter, do I edge off the wrist end or bicep end? Maybe a bit of both to avoid edging or any of the "ribs"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter[TK] Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Question 5 - if there is too much room, angle cut. I had to. Question 6 - trim at the wrist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted April 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 I'm thinking I won't have to shorten the forearms, if I cut a semi-circle in the end like the right one has. (I Noticed you did that mutter). Hopefully later today I'll work on the left bicep and finish fitting the left forearm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter[TK] Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 (edited) I had to, otherwise I couldn't bend my arm! Cut a little at a time until it fits. Don't make one big cut. My motto, " measure once and cut it until it fits". I recommend you don't follow my motto ;-) Edited April 25, 2015 by Mutter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted May 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 (edited) Some more progress. Think I'm about done cutting my left arm pieces and ready to glue them together. Had to angle towards the wrist to close the excess space. Cut an arc on the inner forearm so I had some room to move it. The right one has an arc, not sure why the left didn't. Couldn't really bend my arm past a 20-30 degree angle without one. Apologies for the dirty mirror, my kids bathroom =( Probably should've cleaned it. Anyway, fit feels good, I can move my around around comfortably. Only real collision is because the pieces aren't in a strapping system and move around my arm. Question 7: Anyone have any comments about the fit looks?Question 8: What's the best way to go about gluing these with E6000? I was thinking start with placing a cover strip on the inside halfway on one piece and place the 2nd piece in the "L" then the cover strip. Edited May 6, 2015 by jhpeyto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted May 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 First glue, don't have enough clamps to do more than 1 piece at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rikrikrik Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Nice very nice keep it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Update, left arm is done. Just working on the strapping system for it. I plan to have one band of black elastic run down my left arm, starting at the shoulder, snapping on the bicep and snapping on the forearm. 3 snapping points, Middle Shoulder, Mid Bicep and Upper Forearm, male ends on the armor and female ends on the elastic. And add a separate line to connect the shoulders to the shoulder straps of the armor. Here is the lifeless arm. Roughly how I plan to attach the snap points on. Male end is snapped through a square of elastic and the whole thing is glued to a ABS square, then the square will be glued to the inside of the armor. Snap points drying. Question 9: What is the best way to clean the excess E6000? There was some fingerprint smudges around my forearms when I was getting them into position, just rubbing my fingers along the ABS was enough to get that off. For the area right along the cover strips there is a bit of excess and it's harder for me to get my finger there to create the friction to get it off. What's the best way to go about that y'all have found? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter[TK] Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Rub it off with your finger or use a pencil eraser, that works too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDon[501st] Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 No need to glue the piece of elastic to a piece of abs to then glue onto the armor. Make your snap plates at least 2" long of whatever material you choose put the snap in the middle. I put some duct tape over the snap because some have said the snap heats up and can melt the plastic a little. Not sure how true that is but I did it to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 @ Mutter a pencil eraser is a great idea, can get where my finger can't, thanks.@ Joe.Gravelle Ya I read about the snap heating up and affecting the plastic, so I figured I'd put an extra layer to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted May 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 An update, I've finished the arms for the most part. Minus a few touch ups around the gaps, either will trim the return edges & sand a bit so it's not so pointy, or just some caulk to fill in the gaps. I've read caulk works decently, it just needs to be replaced when it starts to discolor. Which that isn't hard to do. I ran out of snaps so it'll have to wait to adjust the elastic bands, but I'm also going to wait until I have the chest armor done before I make the final adjustments. Also plan to add some foam inside the forearms so they don't "float". That is not the bucket I will use, that's just an FX helm I bought 2 years ago. Just threw it on to help complete the look and help me feel closer to being finished. The shoulders are just connected with an elastic strap, it's too long so they droop in this picture. They'll be connected to the shoulderstraps of the chest armor when I get there.*Bonus pics*This is why I bought the FX helm, my girls first Halloween we went as stormtroopers. That suit is a leather motorcycle suit from UD Replicas I got 2-3 years ago. Have a matching motorcycle helm, it sure turns heads when I have the full get up on for a ride. Next part is the chest.Any questions/suggestions/comments on everything so far? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnjelRedemption[TK] Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Looking good man! I'm using caulk to fill in the gaps on my forearms. stuff comes off pretty easy so it won't be hard to replace. I'm almost done w/ the arms on mine, but i got the whole torso done and strapped up. (check out my thread for ideas) Keep up the good work!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted May 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 So update, got some of the chest done. Trimmed off most of the excess plastic on the straps Sanded them down with the dremel. Gluing on the shoulder snap points. Measuring for the snap placement Test fitting before I punch in the rest of the snaps. Was running out of room in my office, so I boxed up the motorcycle suit and placing the finished armor pieces of the mannequin. Though with just the shirt, and how skinny he is, looks like a mini-skirt. Armor looks a bit big on the mannequin, but I'm about 3-4 inches taller and he's got like a 30 inch chest. So as I move onto the ab/cod/butt/kidney areas I've read alot about cutting the cod or not. I think I am going to leave it as one piece, see how I like it, then cut if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusader_6[TK] Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Looks great so far!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Just an update, stalled out for a bit due to a new motorcycle popping up. That and I'm waiting on Hobby Lobby to get in some snaps, figure I started with them and would rather use the same kind throughout the build. Cheaper to just wait for them to get some more in stock than order from their website.Still feel confident I'll make my self imposed Halloween deadline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted July 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 So I've stalled on the torso waiting for rivets. Didn't have split rivets and didn't notice till I was ready to assemble the ab & kidney sections together. (I had normal rivets) And no one in town carries split rivets so I'm stuck waiting for some to come in.So in the mean time I figured I'd start working on the thighs.So if I'm not mistaken the leg pieces are built like the arms, except they're velcro'd in the back. (calves for sure, thighs if needed) And if velcro'n make sure the "visible vecro" is on the inner sides. Cover strips are about 20mm wide. And it's tapered toward the knee.As far as the strapping system, I could use some opinions on that. I've seen "suspenders" and "belt" systems used.Anything else I may be missing or tips, comments, concerns? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter[TK] Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 If you haven't ordered your rivets, get them here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23970-fs-centurion-level-rivet-sets/ I'd also recommend getting the snaps from Tandy Leather. They're good quality and you'll get them relatively quick. The back of your calves are either velcro'd or clips. 20mm cover strips. The outside piece overlaps the inside piece so people don't see the opening as easily. Thighs are glued and cover stripped (20mm) like your forearms and biceps. No velcro is used. I use a belt/garter system for my thighs. No suspenders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhpeyto Posted July 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 Thanks Mutter,I already ordered the snap rivets, if they don't work out I'll try your link. Feel like an idiot once I realized how much easier the cover strips are to cut if you clamp a side or both down. Same goes for cutting armor pieces. Test fitted my right thigh, seems a tad long. As I can't really bend my knee to a 90 degree angle. Kinda stops at a 75-80 degree angle. Doesn't really effect walking around much, but makes sitting near impossible (And I imagine with the rest of the armor it would be) Question 10: That knee restriction normal? Question 11: If not, best solution to cut the top of the thighs along the pattern to "scoot up" the thighs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter[TK] Posted July 13, 2015 Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 (edited) the restriction is normal. They were made for standing, not walking. You can remove some of the trim from the botton of the back of the thighs to help with mobility. Check out the back of this guys thigh. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/48-screenshot68802/ You could also trim the top of your thighs too, but I would save that as a last resort. Edited July 13, 2015 by Mutter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted July 13, 2015 Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 Add that notch out the rear bottom of the thigh. They looks like the right height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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