charlesnarles Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Starting a thread for my blaster build. I've cracked it open (so to speak!) and ended up snapping the - wire to the led while hollowing out the scope rail and cutting the nose off. I got a soldering kit but I still need to swing by Radio Shack for a brighter led. I saw that Aussie E-11s had stock light-up barrels like the "Boba Fett gun" so I bought a Fett to integrate that function into my E-11. Turns out the effect is created by a hollow rectangle of reflective plastic with the same type of single led placed before it. Darn!!!! While I could have gotten a bike reflector anywhere, I do appreciate Boba's single blast sound effect, as opposed to the alternating DL-44 and E-11. The cards look about the same size, and the triggers were designed so that I can hopefully just slide the new card into where the old used to be glued. More to come (like pics) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesnarles Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 By dumb luck, the Fett card fits into the E-11's slot if you leave some of their hot glue also razor blade crosshatch (dremel, sand, etc) the small cube directly under the card slot to accommodate Boba. The Boba card's activation button is too short for the E-11 trigger, but you can just pull them out and swap them and it's almost a perfect fit; good enough for gov't work. The hardware fits without removing the E-11 battery connectors/holders or anything. I snapped off the wires to remove the old hardware. I can still solder something to it later. The reflector almost fits in the barrel. Just takes some easy cuts to the inside of the nose and it will fit nicely with some glue just to keep it from rattling. I also carved out the front sight, leaving stem for accuracy (heh..) Looks nicer down the scope. I'm posting from my phone, I'll edit the links into pics later tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 front sight looks great. However, once you put on the doopydoo scope you wont really be able to use the scope, unless you drill through it. Up to you. as for the pics, instead of putting the link up, click the image button and paste the url there so that the picture appears on the forum instead of the website. Good luck with the build. enjoy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesnarles Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) I plan on hollowing out the sight and making it as functional as I can. I like the translucent look of some screenshot close-ups I've seen of the lens so I'll try to emulate that somehow. I realized I'd eventually need to replace my gun's batteries, so I have to find a new place for the pack (was gonna put it under the sight rail in the tube). I've read that both AA and AAA batteries are 1.5v when new. Boba takes 3 AAA but the E-11 takes two AA. Think it would work if I soldered the Boba wires to the E-11 battery connectors? Can't find much on this online I'm tempted to just try it but I figured I'd ask first. [edit] I got one response saying it'd be fine, so I'm teaching myself to solder Edited August 20, 2014 by charlesnarles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesnarles Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 I soldered the Boba electronics wires onto the AA battery connections, being careful to wire red on left and black on right (not sure about +/- so went by reference pics). It was easier than I expected and everything still worked! I had to cut a slot into the gun's body to fit the smaller-than-E11 circuit board in snugly (not snuggley) enough to let the trigger push the little button on the board. Btw, had to swap the little rubber buttons cause Boba's is shorter than the E-11's but they have just about the same size holes on their boards so it's easy. I hot glued everything in place and just have to shave some glue/plastic off the barrel to let it fit together like it should. Then I can glue that sucker and start bondo-ing the gaps and making the scope. Sounds way better to have a single trigger-pull noise than two that alternate. I always hated that as a kid. This is beyond therapeutic lol (Still having trouble posting pics from a PC, I'm on a phone right now anyways. Forgive me!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesnarles Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Thinking about getting this as my single light. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/high-powered/cree-xrc-series-1-watt-red-led-r2m3c/941/1263/ 50 lumens is enough, but it says I need a heat sink, so is that a no-no? If not, just a normal 5mm bulb? Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonko Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Not sure the Cree LED will work with the board in your blaster, but I may be wrong. More info and specs on the board would be required to know for sure unless someone else has done it. You will definitely have to use a heat sink with that LED, and make sure there's 'breathing' room around it. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesnarles Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Decided on regular 10mm red LED. Should be brighter than Hasbro stock anyways. I'll post pics in the sun and at night tomorrow. Also, why the hell did I think it was dRoopydoo? I have problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesnarles Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Pathetic in the noon-time CA sun!... Barely visible in the shade in the day outside... Not so bad inside without much other lighting. Time to doop it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesnarles Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Next step is to put on the doopydoo, but the t-tracks will cover the only holes thru which the light can be seen... Short of turning it into a pipe barrel, what can I do to fix this? I guess I can just shave off the bottom left track (the one that doesn't belong) and hand-drill the row of holes and ream them out to the right size. Anyone had success doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khazid[TK] Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Next step is to put on the doopydoo, but the t-tracks will cover the only holes thru which the light can be seen... Short of turning it into a pipe barrel, what can I do to fix this? I guess I can just shave off the bottom left track (the one that doesn't belong) and hand-drill the row of holes and ream them out to the right size. Anyone had success doing this? To make the conversion eligible for EIB you will have to remove that one track and drill out the holes. I haven't looked for them myself, but I am sure you can find some conversion threads here that have done that very thing. If it was me, I would mark the holes with a sharpie/pencil and then use a step down bit to slowly drill the holes to the correct size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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