illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Please feel free to give any input, i want to make sure I am fully happy with my build. Not only that, feel free to ask any questions to those that are working on their blasters. First off I purchased my E-11 at Disney's Hollywood Studios for $24.95. I have a heard a lot of issues about buying their hasbro, but for the best price it is in person. If you want to save money on an Park Entrance Ticket, go to the Disney's Boardwalk (free parking) and one of the stores has it there as well (same price). The only other place that I have seen that you can buy the Hasbro is Ebay and Amazon but those can easily go for between $40-$50 (make sure you find free shipping). The Doopydoo conversion kit is being delivered, so in the meantime I started working on the gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enrod Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Blaster looks great, and looking forward to your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 I'll get some progress pics up soon, the pic loader is being difficult right now...saying every pic is "too big" lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 (edited) I first took the standard pics of both sides before i started working...lol The i removed the three standard spots in order to pry the gun open (Back of scope, front of scope, barrel tip: be careful with the light) The back of the barrel was pretty tough but the small glasses screwdriver helps, but i will sand that later and most of it will be covered with the tape scope. With the other two they will be cut off so it doesnt have to be perfect. Then to try to open it, there is glue on the scope rail so i had to use a utility knife to cut it open then give it a little muscle to open. (dont be afraid to be a little rough lol, the glue sucks! but once you cut it, it helps a lot) Edited July 2, 2014 by illusionz_09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Next i cut the front scope where the Doopydoo will join. The X-acto knife helps to make the initial cut, but i used a hand saw to really cut most of it off. Then cleaned it up with the x-acto knife again. (i did this to both sides of the gun) remember i have it split in two right now lol. I also removed the Star Tours sticker (dont have a picture of me doing this, im sure you understand lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 I'm thinking of changing the front barrel to a PVC pipe to look more realistic. I purchased a PVC tube from Home Depot of 1.5" OD and then printed a template of the barrel fore. When i printed the template exactly at 100% it didnt fit right around my tube, so i reprinted at 144% (crazy right, maybe its the printer lol. just make sure when you print you print and print until it fits perfect) but it fit perfectly after. tape it on so you can use the template without it moving. next i made a pilot hole one all the "holes" so that i dont need the actual template anymore. One i had the pilot hole (i think i used 1/8) then i used a 7/16 drill bit to make the standard barrel holes. they look a little shaky (in person they look better), but once i finish all of the holes i will clean them up a bit with an x-acto knife and sand them down. Either way most of the imperfections get hidden under the T-Tracks. There are also to main holes (there are 2 in the front of the barrel) that are 1/2" instead of the 7/16", make sure you follow the template. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Coming along nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Instead of using the xacto i would just use a blade by itself. Its much easier to control in my opinion. Also, needle files helped me loads during my conversion. Looking good so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Also, are you planning on modding the led or electronics at all? Glen did an amazing job on his build! But if you are looking for a simpler led change and can use a soldering iron, check out mine. I took pictures of almost everything, including the type of bulb i switched too. Lithium batteries are also your friend! They make the blaster much louder and make even the stock LED brighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 yea Andrew lol. First I want to finish the body work before i tackle the electronics. I just dont want to mess with the electronics after i spend time fixing them lol. im def going to use the soldering iron in the motherboard though, to put a stronger LED and also change the batteries too. Im just debating on using one LED or two. One for the base of the gun to light up the chamber and one for the tip. I just want to make sure the gun can handle that lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Touched up the barrel last night. I finished drilling all the 7/16" holes and sanded a bit. After i drill the two 1/2" holes on the front of the barrel i will make final touches and should be ready to cut barrel to correct length and attach to gun. Im happy with it. Especially once i put on the T-tracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Coming along nicely thanks Glen! Im definitely using you and Andrew as my foundation for this lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Barrels looking good! For two lights, Glen is your man lol! I wish I would have done two lights, but I settled for the one in the barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Barrels looking good! For two lights, Glen is your man lol! I wish I would have done two lights, but I settled for the one in the barrel. its never too late. you can always open the gun and add an LED in front in parallel to the barrel light. up to you. but i agree. Glen is the man for that. Im really tempted to get that stun/attack mode, but i dont know how complicated i want to make my electronics lol, well see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 I could, but I just got the blaster to where I want it lol. Plus i bondo-ed the separation lines up. Perhaps when I do a pipe build kit ill get a little crazier with the electronics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 You COULD always just do two LEDs at the base and really bring that barrel to life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 i was able to do a couple things this weekend (not much lol) I sanded the copyright garbage on the side of the gun... then I cut out the screw hole on the back of the scope and then, using an epoxy putty, sealed it off to then sand it flush (next). this is the putty i used. I know some people use bondo, but this comes with both the materials inside to create the repair putty. after 20-25 minutes its solid and ready for sanding. i definitely suggest this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 so i got a little more done. I dremeled out big chunks of the rail scope and the used an X-acto knife to clean it up. I was going to remove them and put a new metal rail, but i figured once cleaned it looks pretty accurate. I also sanded the back of the scope to remove the excess epoxy. I was happy with the rail, i decided to leave as is. Then, since i made a new barrel for the gun, i removed the current barrel from the gun. Just as the rail, first i dremeled a rough part of the barrel, then used an X-acto knife to clean up the area. next on my list is to glue the barrel on and epoxy around it to make it perfectly flush with the gun. I'll be able to do that within the next couple of days. My doopydoo kit is also due to arrive any day now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Now that the old barrel is out, i attached the new barrel. I used both E6000 and Krazy Glue. I had to use both because the Krazy glue is a little more fast acting until the E6000 really catches. With the small angles of the blaster it makes attaching pieces much easier lol. I also found the right black chord to create the back of the scope. I also put a little dab of E6000 where it meets to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. Next i wanted to focus on changing the trigger guard to look more "movie accurate." if you look at the movies, there is a forward curve look to the trigger guard. so i found a handle on a toy lantern and used that as the basis for the guard itself. after grinded the inside of the "guard" to be even, i dremeled out the current stock blaster guards. Once the guard was out and i cleaned it up with an x-acto knife, I used reference pictures to see where i want the new trigger guard placed. So i dremeled some spots on the blaster in the positions i want to insert the guard and then using the same E6000/Krazy Glue technique i glued the new guard onto the blaster. Once the guard was securely glued, i dremeled off the excess loop of the blue guard so that it doesn't restrict the inside of the handle area where the electronics overlap. After i get it painted i think it should look fairly accurate. Also, my doopydoo kit arrived! Progress lol. more coming soon lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Looks good David! I see i've started a trend with the rear of the scope if your able to pressure fit your lens into it, it should be fairly easy to take back out if ya decide to change whatever decal you use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Almost wishing I had integrated the pipe build into my hasbro, but its just my first E-11 anyways, will be doing an actual pipe build kit within the next year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 yea, i like the barrel look. the T-tracks should be in any day. as far as the tape method, yea definitely like that route lol. But i think im going to leave it see-through or maybe just put like crosshairs. I want to make it realistically "functional" lmao. well see what i do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 I have been traveling a lot so I have been out of it for a couple of weeks. I got back into it last night and made a little progress. First I wanted to create my updated trigger to look more realistic. I printed and cut out the template trigger. Then i traced it on top of a piece of delrin "5mm thick chip" and cut out the shape accordingly. Then cut out the area in the Hasbro trigger so i can then glue my new trigger. Then on the nozzle i glued it to a piece of 1.5" diameter x 4mm delrin. I also drilled out where the socket head cap screws will go (i have them i just need to dremel the head and glue em on). Also i drilled a small whole in the center where the LED will sit. BTW...my T-Tracks came in. They are on my side pile for after my base coat is on the gun i will bend them and add to the barrel. Then to "end" the night i glued the magazine and the counter on the hasbro to leave overnight to fully glue together. Tomorrow i will glue the power-cell fuse on top of the magazine. Next on my list are the electronics. I will solder the new LEDs to the base of the barrel and the nozzle tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Looks good David! I see i've started a trend with the rear of the scope if your able to pressure fit your lens into it, it should be fairly easy to take back out if ya decide to change whatever decal you use btw, andrew i have an issue i keep going back and forth in my mind. Is it practical to drill the front of the doopydoo front end scope to create an actual viewing area to make the scope "useful." that way there is no decal but you can actually see through the sites and be able to use the scope... Is that practical, have you heard anyone do that, or it just makes no sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehcaveman Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 If you need any help lmk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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