cl6rkee Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 (edited) Excuse the cross-posting for anyone who has seen this already, but I'm eager to get as much help as possible. Ive roughly marked out in pencil where the first cuts will be on the torso pieces of my TK, and i wanted some feedback before i actually cut it. This is the link to the folder on photo bucket, there are 50 images, so didn't want to link each image individually. ------------ Thanks in advance. Edited January 16, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 You are starting off good. I would leave a tad more return edge, though. Especially on the ab/cod near the cod area, your pencil marks show that you are going to remove close to all the return edge is this area. Don't do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cl6rkee Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Gazmosis, thanks for your reply. So you think i need more return edge on all pieces? I see what you mean about the cod, i need to bring the line nearly all the way to the other edge. You are starting off good. I would leave a tad more return edge, though. Especially on the ab/cod near the cod area, your pencil marks show that you are going to remove close to all the return edge is this area. Don't do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 A lot of the return edge issues will be largely based on if you are going to use the metal bracket system to keep your armor together or if you are going to use snap plates. With the metal brackets, you want a little more return edge to ensure you have enough room for the screw heads. If not, I would say keep your return edges to around + - 3/8 inch but don't go more than 1/2 in. There will be parts that require less than this. You don't want much return edge on the inside of your biceps or the underside of your shoulder bells. Look over some build threads and reference pics to decide what you like best. But remember, the return edges were designed to give the armor the appearance of thickness without adding bulk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cl6rkee Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 So, if i position and place my metal brackets and figure out where the holes will be, then i can figure out how much return erg ei can leave win certain areas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 contact your local UKG they can help you firsthand. set up an armor party and have the experts give you hands on advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 That's a good way to approach it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cl6rkee Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 (edited) Some shots of my lid so far; Edited January 16, 2021 by gmrhodes13 photo updated gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 (edited) I think you can trim out a bit more of the eyes. But the real issue would be the Faceplate gap. It seems that there is a physical gap between your brow trim and the faceplate. there shouldn't be such a wide gap, the brow should be almost up against the faceplate. -------------- Is there rivets under the ears? Or can you disassemble the faceplate from the cap&back to bring it forward? Edited January 16, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cl6rkee Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 The eyes definitely need more out, just doing a bit at a time. I thought the brow was wrong, but I'd gone by the markings from the original cast. Defo messed that up then. Need to learn how to remove rivets without destroying the lid. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Good luck then ! I hope you'll be ok. Mind the heat while doing it to avoid melting the ABS, work little step at a time and leave it time to cool down sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cl6rkee Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Got the rivets out fine. used magnets to line it all up again and got the brow just where i wanted it, marked it and drilled the holes. Put it together again and the brow did the same thing, seems to be that when i line up the curves of the left side of the helmet it pulls the brow down, how can i avoid that? Really dont want to put ant more holes in it, as it has too may all ready! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) I'm quoting Steve who wrote a good post on how to attach the back with the facelate, i hope it will help you. And when you put your magnets, be sure to start from the middle of the faceplate to the ears. On 11/9/2013 at 10:28 PM, gazmosis said: Now you are at the stage where mistakes can happen. Not that any other stage they CAN'T........but anyway. Find a nut and screw that is the same diameter of the rivet you will use to hold the two halves together. Separate the halves and drill your mounting holes IN THE CAP ONLY. Then pick a side to begin. Realign your cap against the face piece but MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE ENTIRE BROW TRIM FITTING TIGHT AGAINST THE FACE FROM EAR TO EAR. This is the mistake that happens a lot. Once you pull it tight AND have that eye corner/trapezoid alignment confirmed on both sides, mark the face through the hole on one side only! Drill that out and insert your screw and nut and tighten it down. Once that screw is in place, you can be free to mark the other side at will without having to worry about anything moving or slipping out of place. Make sure to pull it tight to the face. Once you are happy, mark/drill the other side. With the screws, the two halves will still be allowed to pivot allowing you to further refine the placement of your brow line. It is STRONGLY recommended to place a rivet further down the line toward the bottom on each side.--------------- Edited January 16, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 I agree that the eyes need some additional material removed. It looks so sad in that one shot anyway, it seems like you are going to reposition the brow line to fit higher. Just be aware that when you change that position, you probably will need to re adjust the fit of your ears. Take your time and go slow. You can always remove a little more but you can't put it back if you remove too much. a Millimeter at a time can make a huge difference. Your helmet is worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cl6rkee Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Eyes are looking better, trimmed quite a bit away. Brow still looks low. That tutorial is pretty much what I did to begin with, but i can't stop it pulling down and making a gap when I fix the ears on. I'll put a comparison pic up when I'm at my mac later. Thanks for all your advice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Did you attach a rivet lower down near the cheek tube? If you did, the brow line shouldn't move at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cl6rkee Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 So i pretty much finished my build! Got carried away posting all over the place as i was far too impatient with the whole thing, so decided to stick to the UKG site til Id finished! Thanks to everyone that helped, and in advance for the further questions ill no doubt have! Got my TK cleared by the UKG, just a few minor tweaks before i submit for EIB & then Centurion, and waiting for my TK number! The WIP thread is here if anyone wants to take a look. http://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=126&t=48305&start=30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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