My new E11 Blaster project.

[PGHtrooper21]

I begin to make the "End Caps" of the Cylinders next. For this I used "1/4" "Brass

End Caps". I placed the "Caps" on my cutting mat and measured off ‘5mm" and

Marked it off with a pencil. Make sure that you measure from the closed end and NOT

From the open end. I then took the ‘End Cap" and placed it in the vice. I then as I did

With the tubes, I taped the marking with "Blue Tape. This was done as to get a straight

Cut. Also, the extra tape gave me something to hold on to while cutting.

I reset the "End Cap" in the vice like I did with the tubes. The reason is to cut above the tape.

Like before, I do not want to cut on the mark. Because, I want to leave a little above so when

I file I can be close on the "5mm" mark. I repeated the cut on the other 3 "End Caps".

　

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

When I was at "Hobbytown U.S.A" I bought some "Hex Bolts and Nuts" for the ends

of the "Cylinders". They are a size "2-56". I placed the ‘Bolt" in my ‘Drill Bit Index" card

to find the size of a "Drill Bit" to drill into the center of the "End Caps" Once I found the "Bit"

I placed the ‘End Cap" on the vice and took out a "Bit Awe" and I lined up the center of the

"End Cap" with the "Tip" and using a "hammer" I tapped a starting point in the center of the

"End Cap". I then placed the ‘"End Cap" in the vice and drilled a hole into the "End Cap".

I repeated the process on the other three "End Caps".

　

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

I got the "Bolts" and placed them through the holes and twisted the nuts down on

the "Bolts" till flushed against the "End Caps’. I then used the "Round Jewel File"

again on the inside of the ‘End Caps" for some touch ups.

　

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

After this was done, I started to assemble the "Power Cylinders" to see how it

Looks all put together. I put the "Brass Tubes" in the holes and set them on the

"Wings". Next I placed the "End Caps" on the ends of the "Brass Tubes". Then,

I placed the "Capacitors" in the center holes. I aligned up the "Brass tubes" and

The "Caps" and took pics.

I then got my "Dummy Sterling", my Scope with the Rail, my Hengestler, and

And placed everything in place for a test fit. I used a plastic container and a cookie

Box to hold the "Dummy Sterling in place while I placed everything on the sterling

And took some pics. How does it look so far?

　

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Marv]

Really liking what I've read here, this will look lovely when your finished. A couple of things I'd recommend though for anyone who follows your build, issue that you should drill all your holes on the cylinder chasis before you make any bends. That way you can be sure your alignment is correct. Simply placing the plate on a wooden block is good to help with this, and means you can clamp it down too.

If you place your rail etc in a vice to form a bend as long as this is done as close as possible, and you use a heavy implement applying even pressure also means that you don't need to score the metal before bending. In doing this though make sure you protect the surface of the metal you put into the vice.

[Marv]

Will be watching with great interest, good luck with the rest of the build you cannot beat the feeling of achievement when your done.

Edited April 8, 2012 by Marv

[PGHtrooper21]

Marv,

 

Thanks for the tips. This is my first time attempting something like this. I do not have a workshop. Just working with a vice and a bench.

After the build is done. I have leftover metal and tubes. I might make some more to improve the Cylinders with the tips you gave. Making the

Cylinders is not that hard, it's just keeping everything lined up.

 

Thanks again.

 

Andy

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

How to convert a Plastic "Hengester Socket\Connector".

Since I do not have a "Metal Socket\Connector" for my counter. I am going to convert my plastic one. I took out my "E11 Hyperfirm" and took some measurements of the "Cutout" section of the counter. I measured the distance from the top, bottom, left and right. Made the markings on the "Socket". Took out a metal ruler and connected the lines. I got my "Xacto knife and kept scoring till I cut out the center. I got some "Jewler's Needle Files" to smooth it out. Got my "Counters" and slipped it in too see how it looks and compaired it to the "Hyperfirm".

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

Next up is sodering the tubes to the base. To do this I had some help. I am not good with sodering. First the front of the tubes were sodered. Then I did my best to allign the tubes as best as I can and then soder the back caps and run a bead on the backplate allong the tubes. Then soder the tubes to the "V" wings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

Next up I beveled off the "Backplate". I was studying "Play Wolf Cub" modified Template on the variations of the "Powercylinders" I decided to trim off the back of mine. I used a pencil to mark the lines on the back of the "Backplate" and secured it in the vice. I used a "Dremmel" to cut off the corners and to sand off any remaining pieces of metal. When using a "Dremmel"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

Next up is to set the "Center Caps" and tack them in. I frst used a "Utility Knife" to remove the plastic sleave around the "Caps". Then I used a pen awe to tap and mark the area where I wanted to drill the holes for the front wires to sit. I used a dremmel to drill the holes a little deeper I did not want to go all the way through. I did this so that the wires would have a place to sit, so that they can be tacked with one bead of soder. Once the pilot holes were drilled. I began to place the "Caps" in and try to get them as level and even as I could. Once as I got them where I wanted them. I trimmed off and shaped the front wire. Then I got help again to soder the back of the "Caps". I started with the bottom and sodered each one. One at a time. This was to make sure they were placed were I wanted them. After the back was finished, the front wires were tacked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Griffin-X[TK]]

Great job so far!

[ZeroRoom[TK]]

This is a great tutorial - especially for making power cylinders. Awesome work on such detailed descriptions and photography.

I wait with baited breath for the next instalment...

[MartinSivertsen[501st]]

Very nice.

[Faie[TK]]

Awesome work!!!!

[Hino-Can[TK]]

Outstanding!

Congratulations

[PGHtrooper21]

Painting the parts.

To secure the front screws I untightened the screws to shorten the bolts. When I got the bolts to where I wanted them to be, I used a "Jewel File" to roughen up the front of the end caps and use a papertowel to wipe off any excess shavings. Then I dapen my hands with a moist paper towel. Then I used "Kwick Steel" to hold them into place.

"Kwick Steel" is a type of Epoxy that comes in a tube. First You cut off what you need to work with and then put the rest back intoo the tube and put the cap back on to seal the tube to prevent it from hardening. Then you need to dapen your hands with a moist paper towel. Grab the piece of 'Kwick Steel and roll and kneed it till it turns into a solid color. Then very quickly place the piece of "Kwick Steel" on the end cap. and place the screw back into place and press and hold. I repeated the process on the other cap. Note! "Kwick Steel" cures/dries VERY FAST! you have to be quick to work with it.

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

Next I used my "Utility Blade" to cut off any excess "Kwick Steel" from the areas arround the "Bolts and End Caps". After wards I used "Blue Painters Tape" to tape the edge of the blade for throwing it out.

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

After, letting the "Kwick Steel" set for a day, I began to paint the parts, ie the "Power Cylinders", Counter holder and Counter/Socket.

For the paint I used Krylon, Primer & Paint Flat Black. I sent email to Unique caines whom I ordered my "Dummy\Deactivated Stering from and ask what type of paint that he used on assembeling the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" . He replied back saying that he used "Flat Black" and polish it wth a cloth after drying.

I took the pieces out on the wall and layed out the paper. I set the "Power Cylinders" on some pieces of scrap wood . I read the instructions on the can and shook the can for a few minutes and checked the direction of the wind and sprayed away.

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

In painting the counter, I removed the two screws, from the counter. I removed the plastic cover. I placed some "Blue Painters Tape" over the clear plastic. I used a "Xacto Hobby Knife" to trim along the clear window. and removed the excess. I places the counter and the screws in a "Ziplock" plastic bag for safekeeping.

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]

I used a wire hanger to place the Counter Socket and counter on while spraying. I held out the "hanger" and sprayed away. I did not get a chance to take a picture of spraying the counter and socket. So I took a picture of of it afterwards. I just placed the wire in the two holes of the plastic part of the counter and set it off to one side and place the wire into the hole of the counter holder and placed the wire through the front and back of the socket and set it on the other side. I did two coats. Left dry for two days and sprayed another two coats and let dry. The instructions on the can said to let dry for 2 hours then you can add on another coat. I let it sit for two days.

[PGHtrooper21]

Here are some pictures of the pieces after the painting. I will be doing some touchups on the front of the counter. I will retape the front and trim it out with a "Xacto Hobby Knife" and spray again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PGHtrooper21]