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Navajo Bro

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by Navajo Bro

  1. Here was the placement of my shoulder straps. You can see it's about 5 or 6 "bumps" up: We're doing a new recruit's Shadow Trooper AM 2.0 kit and although it wasn't planned and built several months later, his ended up being about the same spacing: And here is how I tapered my back/chest at the shoulders. I basically found center of the armor and measured so it would be about 2 inches total (so one inch in each direction from center): Hope that helps!!
  2. Sorry man, got tied up with work and some troops I have another event this morning so I'll pop back in later with some photos but quick answer: 1) Shoulder strap placement - I don't think there is an exact "measurement" but I tried to place them in a spot that simply looked good. Not to far up, but also leaving enough room so that they extend over the back evenly. I imagine because each person's physical build is different where they sit might vary slightly, but I think it was about 5 bumps up on the hard plastic strap - meaning if you count the bumps from the bottom, the end of the chest armor (top) was between the 5th and 6th bump. I'll throw in a photo later 2) I trimmed pretty much all the way to the bumps on all sides. 3) Back plate was definitely wider, I ended up tapering them to 2" - I found the center then marked out the measurement then slowly cut away and dremeled until it was even. 4) I think about an inch or so between the chest and back plate. Enough to see the difference but not a ton.
  3. I actually did almost the same thing.... another guy had a bunch of chicago screws left over so I rigged up some spacers with extra plastic, put in the screw, lined it up and glued as an extra support. I'm happy with how it came out Inside: Outside: I used plastic weld and it seems to hold very nicely, I doubt I needed the extra support but it makes me feel safer lol. I also write a love note to my wife hidden somewhere in each costume I build hahaha!! My TK has it in one of the drop boxes, here I put it under the big ab box I also got the kidneys put on: I know it's a "debate" over the type or thickness of plastic in these kits, lol, but I don't know enough about ABS vs HIPS to know the difference. I will say that although some parts are pretty darn thick, some are also paper thin. When I went to put this on the slightest flex made some serious creaking and cracking noise, so I reinforced the seam with a ton of ABS paste. Didn't clean it up yet but it's on the inside so I'm not to worried...
  4. Yeah, I thought of that, it would be an easy enough fix... I have some extra split rivets if need be I can take it apart and re-do it, but I also left extra space on the snap end of the elastic while building so I might be able to fit in another snap. I can also sew so another fix would be add another piece of elastic lol. thanks
  5. Yeah I understand that thanks, should be an easy fix I can cut that off and add new straps and re-do the elastic if needed I get that "trimmed" part too, I let guys know it's cleaner then some raw kits but still needs to be cut to fit you so it's not really trimmed out of the box lol. I also tend to only suggest AM kits for our bigger guys and most of our new recruits have been monsters, like well over 6' and well over 200lbs, so it was good for them. I'm not tall but I am solid hahahaha, and I do like how thick the kit is so when I saw one up for sale I jumped on it. I'll probably never hit Centurion level because of some of the fit issues being a larger kit on my size, but wanted to add as much accuracy as possible with my build. Plus it was fun.
  6. Wow how did I miss that? So basically where my snaps are would be cut off... the red line should be where it is trimmed? I can actually fix that no problem, I feel silly but also thought that was a little tight and close in there hahaha! Thanks man
  7. I know I have more in there that is necessary for EIB but would like feedback on the accuracy and look of all the extras. Also, I took the green sheet shots with my hard handplates, I hadn't assembled the rubber ones at that time but have since completed them and added the photos. Hope I submitted this correct, thanks!
  8. Name = Terry Browning TK ID = 8869 FISD Forum Name = Navajo Bro Garrison = Northeast Remnant Armor= AM 2.0 Helmet= AM 2.0 Blaster= Hyperfirm Height = 5'9" Weight = 190 lbs Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas Belt = TrooperBay Hand Plates/Gloves = TrooperBay plates / "Firm Grip" neoprene long cuff black Inner Drop Boxes = AM 2.0 Holster = AM 2.0 Neck Seal = from old TK, believe it was made by "costume junkie" '06 FULL BODY FRONT: FULL BODY BACK: FULL BODY RIGHT: FULL BODY LEFT: DETAIL RIGHT: DETAIL LEFT: NOTCHES (BOTH SIDES ARE DONE) COD DETAILS: AB DETAILS: THIGH PACK: Recent paint touch up: **** KNEE DETAIL: FREE FLOATING SHOULDER STRAPS W/ ELASTIC: HELMET FRONT: HELMET BACK: HELMET RIGHT: HELMET LEFT: HOVI MIC DETAILS: LENS COLOR GREEN: S TRIM: AMMO BELT: NECK SEAL: BLASTER RIGHT: **** BLASTER LEFT: *** BLASTER TOP: *** THERMAL DETONATOR: INTERNAL STRAPPING: RUBBER GLOVES AND HANDPLATES: BOOTS: *** EXTRA DETAIL - BICEPS HOOKS: ACTION SHOT: Photobucket album: http://s199.photobucket.com/user/bro117/library/TK%20Armor%20Build/Bro%20AM%202%200?sort=3&page=1 Build thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32531-navajo-bros-am-20-stunt-build/
  9. lmao wow thanks for all the great comments! I don't know how I missed all the recent replies, I was popping in each day but my "view new content" thing doesn't work right on this sight, so I pop on "my content" and just check to see if there was a different name as the last reply. Somehow I was off I need to submit for EIB, I wasn't putting it off, I've actually been busy helping new members again. I'm not really an expert IMO, but I can follow directions and have been here long enough to feel confident in my builds, even if they aren't as clean as some of the great ones. I also have a pretty good schedule with work and family which gives me the ability to help others - over the last year I've had four new recruits come to my house every week or so and use my shop space, tools and advice to assemble their own AM TKs. All four did a fantastic job and are approved. I just started two weeks ago helping another new member with his AM Shadow TK, and have three more recruits that are expecting their AM kit to arrive this week. So pretty much all my free time is spent helping them (God bless my understanding wife). Oh, and on a rare occasion I have a little time to hit the FO Trooper for myself lol.... Tony, like I said I'm going to submit ASAP. The other reason I wasn't rushing was because I have the accurate rubber gloves and plates but in the photos I was using the hard ones. I wanted to suit up and take some updated shots but haven't had the time. Christopher, sorry I missed those posts before but we talked via PM and glad some of my photos helped you out ! My build took about 30 hours total, but over like 3 months because I wasn't in any sort of rush and just doing a few hours every other night or so. We did one trooper in the Garrison in about the same amount of time, but he came by a lot and a few days we put in like 16 hours straight. He was done in only a few weeks. But like Tony said, it really varies and it's better not to rush and instead post a thread and get some help along the way. Once you get a few things going you'll find a lot of it is repeated and as it goes on gets quicker and easier. The thing that takes the longest is allowing the glue to dry at time before moving on lol. Kirk, Jamie and Michael thanks for the kind words! I'm just happy to finally have a good, accurate TK. My old one was the FX from 2006 hahaha! Also Kirk, I used heavy duty snaps found almost anywhere from JoAnne's, AC Moore, Michaels and even Walmart. I've never had any problems and have used them on all my costumes. Obviously some spots take more abuse then others, but when they occasionally break it's an easy fix. I love the webbing method of gluing them on plastic, back in the old days I tried to put them through the plastic or used plastic squares and the posts weren't really long enough so then never held up. http://www.joann.com/dritz-heavy-duty-mighty-snap-5-8in-7-pkg-/prd11248.html#q=heavy%2Bduty%2Bsnaps&start=1 Pat man what's up! You gotta come back out one day, we miss you man! Marilyn, glad I could help let me know if you have any other questions I have lots more photos in the album and can always take more Lastly, here is old faithful, the original FX Stormtrooper I joined with in '06... retired to the duct tape manikin...
  10. I'm also moving to the ab plate and boxes while stuff dries. I trimmed and laid them all out, they are flush and fine. I know I've seen some builds but have to search them out - people put like support strings or something on them right? In case they fall off? Or is there some backing I'm supposed to use?
  11. .... I've been using my son's room for photos the last few years because it's right outside the workshop, and every picture has that ghost image in the refection near my waist hahahaha! I'm going to go windex that right now before I forget
  12. In the meantime, I did the shoulder gaskets but might have screwed it up a little. Looking back I think I was supposed to possibly trim somewhere? It is hard to see because of my black shirt, lol, but they only sit flush it my arm is out: If I put my arm down they bunch up a little:
  13. Here's what I did on the suggestion of another member who had the same problem with tight biceps : Used the glue tab as a length mark, added a shim: I'll fill in the space with either an ABS scrap cut to fit or paste/bondo.
  14. Now that the arm gaskets are done I can work on the biceps. The arm gaskets are tight but okay: I could just about slide the biceps part on the way it's supposed to connect stock, but couldn't really get it all the way up and if I bent my arm it would probably snap lol: If I use the glue tab as a mark to extend, then add a shim on bottom to connect and on top to fill in the space I am fine: I'm gluing the shims in the biceps and thighs, I'll address the shims after those are dry....
  15. I trimmed the yoke, test fitted and am adding the support shims I made from scraps: All my builds are like Where's Waldo, my son's room is downstairs right outside my workshop and he has the biggest closet mirror so all my photos are in his room hahaha! My middle daughter is also always roaming around and sneaking in his room to climb on the bunk beds or play with his stuff
  16. Hey man, I just responded to your message Join the forums of our local NJ chapter of the 501st Legion (Northeast Remnant), you can get a TON of information here but over there we can also give you some hands on help and you can see the local troops so you can come out and meet us in person and see stuff first hand. I literally just helped our last four recruits build their AM 2.0 kits at my house over the last year. I had the time and space, they came over and I gave them tips and helped explain stuff but they did most of the work and it was a great time all around. I'm working on some of my own stuff but also helping yet another new recruit, and I'm sure we can fit in some time to help you as well.
  17. I just finished the arm gaskets, had a build set back because I took a week to help a new recruit finish her TK I plan on getting back to this over the weekend, I'm still excited to go forward on this so first thing I'll do is dremel down all the rough parts and try another test fit..
  18. Thanks Tyler, I've been posting questions both here and on the facebook build group (sometimes the answers come quicker there because pretty much this entire planet spends all day browsing social media on their mobile devices hahaha) and they said the same thing. Pretty much not to trim it and instead just do my best to reinforce it at the weak point and get dressed carefully with a good spotter lmao I trimmed the gaskets and am going to glue them next so I can get that done and have the available for test fits like this.
  19. Here's a shot of the glued back/yoke (haven't filled in seams or sanded down inside yet) I have a questions about getting it on. I have to pull it out to get it over my arms, and obviously this will lead to stress fractures and breaks. Can I trim down the bottom of the fronts about an inch or so? That would probably enable me to get it on better... like this:
  20. Thanks, so far it's all rough trim and acclimation for part fitting. I just cut out and washed the gaskets, I'll make my attempt at gluing them tomorrow. After that I'll start really smoothing things out and making a go at assembling some parts with bondo or ABS paste
  21. My biceps armor are a little too small as is, they literally leave no room, so I'll be adding a shim to give me about an inch or so to account for the gasket. I'm actually going to start doing the gaskets at this point so I can be sure everything fits prior to further assembly on the arms / legs Which brings me to my first question: I see the gasket tutorial provided, but does anyone have a photo step by step in their personal build threads? I'm trying to browse them all but there are so many hahaha, I want to make sure I'm solid when all is said and done. I see my first step is to trim off the fabric all the way to the rubber edge, right? And cut out the rubber shims.
  22. I wanted to start gluing some stuff so I did the shoulder bells too as they seemed pretty simple and straight forward. I was one of the lucky ones with this wave of helmets... I didn't have any cracks as opposed to a lot of others that I saw posted in the facebook group. The back of the lining was coming apart a little though, sort of let down from a licensed company and price point, but for what it's worth I'll just glue it myself since it seems to be the only flaw and I can fix it easy enough.
  23. Hey guys, I'm the only member in NJ that has a kit so I'm the Dirty Jerzey test subject, lol. I have done a ton of research here and on the facebook group gathering photo reference, files and instructions. I'm okay with building armor but since this is a new type with no first hand reference for me I'm taking my time and doing the best I can. I'm familiar with ABS paste and making it, but honestly haven't used it more then a few times for minor fixes as opposed to complete seamless assembly. So far it seems pretty straight forward, everything is labeled and with the glue tabs it's basically like the old school TK overlap construction, meaning things are pretty obvious where they fit together. I'm sure I'll still have a lot of questions along the way so I'm going to start a thread to help myself out I see some FANTASTIC tutorials here already, so I won't necessarily try and show how I build this, but rather post up progress shots for feedback and questions which will hopefully not only help me but help others that might be unsure of the same stuff. I used tin snips to rough cut every single piece, had no problems and took maybe 4-5 hours total. I liked it because this part I could do upstairs next to the computer using the photo references here to find and ensure the cut lines. Tin snips left almost no mess at all whereas a dremel would have covered the entire living room in white dust hahaha! Starting with yoke/back/front and shoulders - complete rough cut test fit to get acclimated with the parts and layout: From here I started sanding and finishing the edges, and removed the return edge from the back armor and connections to make the seam more flush. Afterwards I'll also trim the inside support to match the curve of the shoulder straps.
  24. I haven't actually submitted for EIB yet, before I do can the experts point out anything I'm lacking or needs fixed? Thanks! And total time was about 30 hours over three months
  25. HERE ARE SOME OF THE HIGHER LEVEL DETAILS I DID FOR POTENTIAL EIB / CENTURION LEVEL SUBMISSIONS: (note that these are pix before I trimmed the chest sides and some other minor parts) 1) 6 split rivets on left side ab/kidney (3 on each side). Painted white. 2) Snap on the right side ab armor 3) Green lenses: HIGHER LEVEL DETAILS CONTINUED... 4) Rounded edge on right thigh ammo pack, along with cap rivets painted white. 5) Belt attached at proper measurement with two rivets. 6) Back shoulder straps floating and held with white elastic. 7) Ab plate details 8) Cod connections. Snap rivet in the front, two snaps in rear. 9) Interior strapping: 10) Thermal Detonator. Correct clips and screws painted black: 11) Notches on kidney armor: 12) Belt boxes with little gap and flush with ends. Inner drop boxes and angled belt corners: 13) Rubber gloves and handplates:
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