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Navajo Bro

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by Navajo Bro

  1. I was curious about how well the sanded bondo was going to be and if it was good enough for the paint shop.... so I decided to test it with the paint I purchased to originally do this myself.... Although my paint skills have really always been limited to weathering and small parts like greeblies and accessories, I was actually happy with how it came out. I used a pole to get the distance, lol, sprayed lightly and planned to do multiple coats as I wanted to expand my skill some. I've decided to just paint this myself, because although my autobody guys will give it top notch treatment, trooping does wear paint off pretty quick in spots so I'll have probably end up doing a ton of touch ups as time goes by. I used steel wool on every piece to prep for painting: Handy pole I'm using to hold out as I paint, then carefully turn the part to hit all the sides: Dry over by the heater. I'm doing each coat (min two) about half an hour apart as per instructions and suggestions by other makers: The very first part I did had a little run because I was doing it too heavy, so I sanded it out and put a third coat on that one. The rest only need one realistically, but I'm doing two as it's easy enough. Stay tuned I am done and very happy with how everything came out ... except one part : For some reason I can't seem to get the resin replacement part on the chest to paint the same as the armor. I've sanded, primed and painted (and done over) several times and each ends up with the same result - the resin doesn't hold the paint the same as the armor so you can see it. I know I need to smooth the edges a little more to make it flush but the main problem is the actual part. Any suggestions? I'm literally done with the armor this is the last thing I'm trying to get perfect One of the guys on the facebook group said he had the same problem, it was the resin piece - it hadn't cured right and he ultimately had to replace it lmao.... I sanded the $#%& out of it one more time, like for two hours using grits from 60/100/120/320/600/1000/1500 hahaha! It can't possibly be any more flush and feathered at this point. I then washed it good, let it dry overnight and hit it with primer. I then lightly sanded each coat with 320/600 and painted it three times. I just left for work and it actually looks pretty good. I can still see it a little if I look close, so tomorrow I'm going to do one or two more coats and then see what's up. I think it'll be good enough for me after then, which means I'm ready to take some photos on Monday!!
  2. The gaskets proved way to impractical to attempt trooping as is, so I did some research on how to trim the garbage ANOVOS ones, lol, and found some tips from guys who modded them. 1) Basically I had to cut some off the shoulder as they were too long, and cut a notch then re-glue it to taper the bottom a little: 2) I also notched out the elbows at the forearm side. They don't need to be re-connected, this lets them squish in better as the forearms are smaller then the biceps but the gasket is all one size. This worked perfectly The glue I used for some of the boxes turned out to be not so great on a few parts. Ones like the holster base and shin boxes where there wasn't much to hold onto. I decided to use aesthetic screws in the holster to actually hold it into the thigh armor, so I'm going to get a few longer ones, but I began the process. 1) I started by making the screw hole, but I also used a bigger bit to make the top where the screw hole sits larger, as a counter sink measure: 2) Got longer screws and measured it all out. Put E-6000 on the base and then put it on the armor, used the nuts to hold it in place to dry as well as attach. I'll have to hit it again with bondo which I was doing anyway. I also opted to do a second round of bondo and some more sanding to prep it for painting *** ROUGH TEST FIT STAGE *** Thanks to Randy for helping me bang out the bondo sanding I'm almost ready to go again! I have a few minor spots I want to fill on two or three pieces and need to hit them all with steel wool to prep for painting but plan on getting it done and over to the shop by next week. Jason helped me do another test fit, as I modded the gaskets and made a few other minor tweaks. He can attest how hard it is to get dressed, lol, but with his help I was able to adjust the belt, test the Thermal Detonator and line up the shoulders. The gaskets still suck but at least I can bend my arms (and lay them to the sides). A few quick shots:
  3. IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME SINCE I UPDATED THIS THREAD, BUT I WAS STILL DOING WORK HAHAHA!! Biceps 1) If you remember, I had to use the glue tab as a spacer to make them larger (my big guns hahaha). It's supposed to have only one seam so I took some of the thinner scrap and made a fill in plastic spacer: 2) Glued it on so that one side will have a decently straight seam. 3) Bondo for the other side, I'll sand it tomorrow. Sanded!! Sanded down the resin holster a tad to make it more flush, and glued it on Fixed the belt boxes, I was rushing and put the vertical boxes flush to the top, they actually sit a little lower. Easy enough, just used the existing holes at marks and made new ones slightly below them Lined up and hand sewed velcro for hand plates: Last little detail - took some foam out of the donut in the helmet. It's WAY to tight, but the donut is a simple removable velcro thing with a seam in the back. I ripped the seam very carefully with a stitch puller: Exposed a little foam at time from each side and cut it out Took just this much from the rear then placed it back in and now it's fine
  4. Welcome Katie! You'll get lots of help and information here for sure, but also come on over to our local NJ Garrison forums here: http://www.501stner.com/members/index.php?act=idx We've had a ton of new members join up the last few months and a couple of them are also interested in the TFA Trooper and Clones, so we're doing our best to help direct them on their search
  5. Try this link for the info: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/23-helmet-ab-button-paint-reference-guide/ That's what I used and I believe I got the paint from like Trooperbay or something since I couldn't find it locally lol....
  6. Glad to see you back at the build man! I see the white boots you posted in the link... they should be fine for basic approval but with the seam in the front they would prevent you from higher status like EIB or Centurion. I know because I used my old boots in my new build (they were from like 2006) and forgot about that little detail hahaha! I have to wait for new ones before I get my EIB badge
  7. Thanks man, like I said I've been using your build as my template lol. I also put the vertical boxes a little too high, my bad for rushing, but it was simple enough to throw in new holes and drop them half an inch
  8. Thigh straps I'm using the belt and strap system for this, made a belt with 1" webbing and 1" clip. Doubled the elastic for strength as this will have some stress on it (keeping it pulled up). Just like a normal TK added an inside snap for the thigh. Working on the gasket connections, basically put them on and marked where everything sits. I was able to pull them on and off in one piece and I'm using velcro so super precise and exact measurements aren't needed - just enough to line up the velcro. I can adjust as needed when all is finished. Marked where the knee will sit. I'll be working on that tomorrow. *** My knee is upside down in the photo, lol, I was just trying to go back and grab some progress shots and was in a rush hahaha! It isn't attached
  9. I've been super busy trying to finish this and am basically done. I have some other shots in my Garrison build thread but they mostly mirror other guys here since I used their info for mine hahaha. The only thing I wanted to throw out that might help is actually assembling the belt - how I did it Belt boxes 1) Finished the two horizontal ones, again used foam and glue and secured them. 2) Added top box part to the vertical three part one. 3) Using foam and glue finished off the last two vertical ones. Belt: A little tricky but not to difficult. Used a leather punch to put holes in the rubber outer one, and soldering iron to put holes in the web inner one. 1) First thing you have to do is put on the armor, put on the belt and mark there the ends will be. After that I used chicago screws through the holes. 2) Using the measuring guide on the FIDS and facebook group I laid out the boxes in order. I made marks then taped them up and tried it on before committing to holes and screws. 3) To mark where the holes will go I put silver marker on the end of each screw and pushed it on the belt at the proper placement. This left a faint transfer I then dotted with the marker. Always double and triple check the placement for each one. 4) Quick test fit to make sure they are okay. 5) Used the chicago screws to attach each box. I haven't seen any actual step by step on securing them so I'll try to document it here for future help. 1) Using the marks made in the first stage, I took the leather punch to the rubber and made the holes. 2) Used the marker to mark the spot on the web belt. 3) Used the soldering iron to make the holes in the web belt. 4) Put the box on the outside, through the rubber. The boxes have the female screw part. 5) Put the web belt over the screws... 6) Screwed in the male part of the set. Repeat down the line until you are done I have some excess rubber on the ends, so I sewed on some velcro to hold it in place. All this will be covered by the soft pouch, and by leaving it I'll have the ability to adjust things if ever needed.
  10. Quick question about attaching the holster and making it functional.... 1) Obviously you have to cut out the notches for a blaster to lock in, what type of tool did you guys use? I'm thinking a half inch cutting wheel on a dremel? Very carefully lol? 2) I also assume the top and bottom bolts/screws go in past the resin and into the plastic spacer, and then the lock nut goes on the end? Inside the plastic? 3) If you get the ball bearing thing I assume you cut off the resin detail where it would sit? Any help, especially photos of progress or angles other then the stock "put together shot from the top" ones would GREATLY help me hahaha! I'm so close to being done now
  11. While I'm waiting on a few snap supports to dry I finished up with the greeblies. First up was cutting out the chest detail and replacing it with the resin one (ugh... cutting the center point of the chest, about as focal as it gets...def made me nervous) 1) Lined it up on the inside, marked with pencil and cut: 2) Sanded until it fits and glued it in using a method I saw on FISD (heated up scrap to make "L" shaped supports then glued them with CA glue): Make sure to mark it all correct hahaha, don't want to do all this and end up with the detail upsidedown Used boiling water for the thigh and shin greeblies... they needed a slight shape adjustment. Tips: use tongs to get them out of the boiling water (obviously) and drop them on a paper towel for one second to dab off the excess water. Get them immediately on a steel bowl and hold each side tight. Move the greeblie around the bowl because it'll heat the metal up, lol, and cool areas help harden it quicker. 1) Boil water, drop it in for 50 seconds, take out and shape. I held it for 30 seconds on the bowl and they all came out perfect. (bottom two aren't done yet in this photo for reference) 2) Glue them on
  12. I also got a few boxes glued on: Nearing the end!! Here's where I'm at: Glued on the forearm details: I'm starting the strapping now
  13. Thanks guys! Got some more down over the last week or two, here's a copy/paste from my Garrison build thread:: Okay, I'm pretty much done with basic part assembly, now I have to start with the bondo and then putting it all together. I'm definitely not an expert in bondo but I'm going to do my best. Talking extreme BASICS here, in case anyone else is brand new, open the can with a flat head screw driver by prying it up a little at a time: When you are done gently tap the lid closed with a hammer: You laugh, but I'm sure there are or will be some members who have literally never opened a paint type can before Oh, and as much as the smell brought back wonderful memories of hanging out in my dad's autobody shop when I was little, the fumes are very harmful. You really need to wear a mask for this part, but honestly you should also wear one for when you dremel and glue for long periods of time: Bondo comes in a giant tub of grey paste, and a small tube of red hardener. The instructions tell you how much to use depending on how big a blob you are doing, but you should also do it in small amounts because it dries quick. So you don't waste it, use like a golf ball size blob of grey bondo and about an inch of red hardener. Mix it up then apply, and make sure you go with a purpose because you'll only have about 3-4 minutes before it's too hard to spread evenly. Repeat as necessary until all your seams are covered. Another tip is using painters tape around the edges of the seam, so that when it applies you can pull the tape off and be left with just the area you are trying to make seamless as opposed to massive glops of bondo you'll have to spend hours sanding hahaha: Pull the tape off and let it dry. I'll be doing this for the next day or so and will update photos as I go. Anyone with bondo experience like Paul and Andy feel free to chime in with some tips and comments thanks!!! Nearing the end of the construction phase... still have to assemble the strapping system, add the greeblies and paint but other then the ankle spats most all parts are complete. I sanded the bondo I've already done and added bondo to what still needs it. If I can sand that stuff down over the weekend I should actually be in pretty good shape Here is a shot of mixing bondo by the way - grey is the bondo, red is the hardener and the second shot shows it pinkish after mixed:
  14. Next comes the belt boxes. After matching them up I put in holes (they were already marked) for the chicago screws I'll use to attach it to the soft belt. I added a small amount of E-6000 on the screw mounts and pushed them through. This will help hold them in place a little better. The large soft pouch has a plastic part that sits on the outside. Simple enough as the soft pouch already has velcro sewed in on the flap, all I had to do was put sticky velcro on the plastic. Luckily I had my own because ANOVOS gives you the matching hook part but it's sew on so you'd have to glue it lmao The second, smaller soft pouch stays as is but is the perfect size for one of those "deck boxes" I had lying around. This will give it some shape support. Using a glue gun and some old scrap from my Ashtooper build I constructed an inner plastic support box for the larger pouch... but because the scraps were all weird left over shapes it came out crappy so I threw it away and constructed a new one out of flat ABS I had from my AM2.0 build *** updated box: In the meantime I've been researching the threads and photos - am I to understand those two smaller belt boxes that attach in the front horizontally are supposed to be rubber on the bottom part that attaches to the belt?
  15. Finished basic forearms: 1) Glued the greeblies: 2) For the boxes, the bottom glues into the top, but for extra support I hot glued in some foam as spacer (I saw that on one of the builds here). I then put ABS glue inside the top box edge and smushed it all together lol: I'll glue the on the forearms after I do the bondo thing on the seams
  16. I've used some "plastic weld" stuff I got at Walmart for the ab boxes, but the rest is pretty much all ABS glue that came with the AM2.0 kit lol. I have so many various glues, adhesives, velcro, snaps, etc.. I've just been using what I had on hand. I would have loved to get some of the plastic weld you were using but have to save some pennies after the cost of the kit hahaha!
  17. The wording is a rough "tutorial" or "step by step documentation" because I also have it in my Garrison member only area to give our guys an idea what it's like and have it in place in case any of them eventually have a kit and need some reference. Please let me know if anyone sees something wrong or confusing so I can correct it, lol, like I've said before I'm the first in my area so I'm flying blind !!!
  18. Forearms weren't too bad to figure out. A LOT of parts but it is what it is lol. 1) I used reference and ultimately taped it up for a test: 2) Using the correct shims (patterns provided with the instructions or online) glued them first: 3) After the sides are secure you glue on the top. Test fit to see if you can get your hand through. If you can, just glue it on. If you can't then they say to leave the bottom third by the wrist unglued so it will flex and allow you to get in and out of it. Personally I don't think that is smart or will last so even though it's REALLY tight I can in fact get my hand in and out so I glued the whole thing
  19. 3) Glued that part onto the base, which again was simply sanding and lining up. Eventually the entire thing will be covered with bondo 4) Last thing was the hook on the top It came out a little rough, but I'm pretty sure I can clean it up with some sanding and bondo
  20. I finally got back on this, I had been helping new recruits with their TK builds but I'm happy to say the last two are DONE hahaha. I still have one more guy but we have a conflicting schedule to the next few weeks so I jumped back to this Shins initial construction was simple. Sand the edges as flush as possible and line up the glue tabs. The outside is glued, the inside will be velcro so you can put them on and take them off: As with all the leg and arm parts, once they are glued and the seams are addressed I'll add the greeblies. The thermal detonator was a little challenging to figure out but I did it lol. Basically a lot of sanding and test fitting to get it lined up then gluing it together in stages. It's really weird but once I figured it out was easy enough. 1) Glued the bottom parts first, bottom seam first 2) Glued the round end caps in before connecting the top edges. I was careful to set up the correct right and left, but of course when I actually glued it I had flipped things over and ended up attaching the left on the right side hahaha! I caught it and corrected it but some of the photos show the initial wrong way.
  21. The elastic is riveted to the back of the inner drop boxes, but they are just loose and looped around the fabric belt. With the end rivets on each side holding the canvas belt to the plastic front belt, and the snaps on the canvas belt that connect to the ab plate the loop sits between the two and thus stays in place If that makes sense. If not let me know I can grab some photos
  22. No worries all around, I can definitely do the mods for the blaster if I don't have a more accurate one. Again, I feel silly - the only two things I used from my original '06 suit are the two things I didn't even think about checking ahead of time hahaha! I'm more happy that my build is close enough for EIB, that was what I was going for. As much as I love my FX simply because it was my first suit and I have so many trooping milestones and memories, I fully understood how out dated it was now and after helping build a few new ones with our recruits felt it was time to get back in line with the group lmao
  23. Awesome thanks for the feedback, I wasn't in any rush I have to check my boots, honestly I might need new ones - those are the only ones I had and they are from '06 so they might be outdated. I think they were CA Boots but again, from a long time ago. I am planning on getting new ones anyway, so that might speed things up. The rivets do look washed out - that shot was from the first application and I've added more since then just need to give you a new photo. The blaster is another original conversion I did from way back when, I wasn't paying attention to the details on that sorry! I have some other blasters, I'll see if they are accurate for EIB if not I'll forgo it until I get a new one. I am saving up for a Hyperfirm since I've seen two of our new recruits with them Again, I apologize for not noticing the boot and blaster details ... I was so focused on the new armor and making it as accurate and up to EIB as possible I didn't think twice about the "old" stuff I was using hahaha! I'm glad that the new stuff I did seems to be okay then though
  24. Yes, they are definitely shaped differently... I can grab a shot of which one I made left and right, basically I fit them and chose what looked best hahaha, not sure if there is actually a standard. The center line of each kinda curves towards the back on mine
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