troopermaster

The real boots are quite tall if you compare them to the ones you posted. The seam under the elastic gusset is behind the heel and the back ankle section is notably taller than the front. They only have pull tabs on the back part too. You might notice the back ankle section does not really taper like most other boots. They are almost the same width all the way up which gives them a distinguishing shape.

Getting Vader to wedge the arms open while using his light saber to heat the plastic is GENIUS!

They are not made by Regency. I had my reasons for not spilling the beans but Dave is free to do whatever he wants. I personally don't care for all the secrecy either. I could have kept quiet about these boots and no-one would ever had known about them (even though there are supposed to be people checking for these )

Here is what the elbow end of an ANH forearm looks like which should help you get the shape right.

To get the parts to curve the way you want them is to wedge a piece of wood at each end to the desired width and heat gently. I have done this on some of the suits I have built for people with great success. The wrist should measure 90mm wide and the elbow 115mm for reference.

I would swap them too. I think they look better with flat lenses anyway

I am thinking something along those lines. You obviously cut them off because they were too long, so rather than trying to put them back on as they came off, maybe just cut off the raised border and try gluing the border back onto the bottom of your thighs? At least this will give you a better finish than what you have now and will keep you trooping until you get replacements. There may be a fair bit of tweaking needed to get everything looking sweet again, but this is the price you pay for been too keen with the trimming!

Congratulations Alan! Well done mate

Not my sale. They are in a shop and available to anyone who wants them

Guys, I've found a pair of brand new original boots in brown size UK7.5 if anyone wants them? I have nothing to do with them - just found them in my never ending searches - and letting you guys know. PM me if you are serious.

Post 'em up if you find any.

All ROTJ helmets have round end frowns. The helmets with square end frowns are ESB MKII - not ROTJ.

My suit is assembled exactly the same as the original ANH armour and I have no problems putting it all on myself with no assistance neccesary.

Lining up your belt for snaps is really simple. Offer your belt up to your abdomen plate where you want it and mark the top and bottom of your belt on the abdomen and add another mark where middle of both end boxes on the ammo belt are. Now you can mark between the top and bottom mark where the end box is and drill out for the snap. Okay, now you have your male snaps added to your abdomen plate and you want to add the female snaps to your canvas belt. This part is easy. Just rub a pencil or pastel over the male snaps on your ab plate and press your canvas belt over them and you know exactly where to add them. It's better to do one side of the belt first and snap it to the abdomen before doing the other side to guarantee a perfect fit.

There is a thread on here that shows a side by side comparison between each part of AP vs TM. TE2 is virtuatlly the same as AP so you should get an idea of how they compare, although that doesn't help you with the RT-mod unfortunately.

I have bought several dive suit neck seals and none have been suitable to wear with armour. They have all been too tight fitting and do not have pronounced ribs, so I have cancelled them out of the equation. It's my belief that the seals are probably from a deep sea divers suit or something similar. I do believe they are a found item - I just haven't found anything that is close unfortunately.

WOW!!! Karin, I wasn't expecting it to look this good on you. You have outdone yourself. Totally awesome build

This is fantastic! Although I have already seen this suit in the archives CD's it's awesome to see a 360` veiw of it. Just look at that wonky right shoulder bell!

I would take it off all the way around. It will stop the cracks and also make it more comfortable to walk without the edges digging into your skin.

You have got far too much return edge on the tops which has caused the crack to occur. Trim it right back until there is almost nothing there and your problem with disappear (just like your return edge ) Also, are you sure the plastic is ABS? I know acylic capped ABS would crack like that but not regular ABS. Hips or Styrene would for sure!

Looking good

Looks like evrything is coming along nicely

I can see that there is still a minimal amount of return edge on the wrist, so best to cut it all off completely. Try and squeeze the wrist area as you put your hand through and don't expect your hand to just slip through. I think I would prefer to have the wrist tight than having to use extra wide strips or shims just to make it easier to get them on or off. If you have to use wide strips or shims then go for it. I think if you have to have overlap edges wider than standard it is better to use wider joining strips like 20mm or so.

This is what I use with great results http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DYLON-FABRIC-PAINT-WHITE-25ml-POT-FREE-POST-/190562800636?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item2c5e6d93fc

I do have quiTE a few nice ones, but the one above was found quicky on a google search.