troopermaster

I got the belt made up and I am pretty happy with the result. The multi layering makes it hard for me to sew but I have managed it. It's been slow going since my last update as I have been suffering from man flu, but I have managed to do some more work and will get some photos tonight.

Thank you everyone. It's good to know that you guys appreciate my efforts. As most of you already know, I am always happy to help whenever I can. Cheers

I believe all the originals have this same pattern on them but as you say, some less bumpy. No doubt that if all the helmets were pulled from the same mould then they must have all the same bumps. This ESB helmet is without a doubt the bumpiest I have seen so far. I don't think these bumps were anything to do with dirt on the moulds. If AA was pulling fishponds and garden ornaments he would have had is own forming tools made from resin or fibreglass and not used dirty garden pots. Professional vacuum formers use high performance machinery and AA was no different. I believe the bumps are cause by the metal filings or whatever was used in the forming tools to keep them warm. The hotter the tool, the more pronounced the bumps or the more it was used, the more pronounced the bumps - that's my theory.

The bumps are part of the mould and therefore part of the helmet - not paint. --------------- Thanks to DarthKaro for these awesome photos

Looking super cool there Rich!

Get your brow trim fitted and fit the face plate before you trim anymore from the forehead. Don't worry if the trim looks wonky - wonky is good! A quick wipe with white spirit or tupentine will bring that trim back to life. Trim out the eyes a lot more. Just leave 1/4" flashing and see how that looks, then trim more if you want. The bigger you make the eyes look, the better.

Take a look at this ESB helmet and see there is a slight bump there. Here are a few more of the same helmet to show just how bumpy some of the originals were.

RTA has copied my armour to make their own. They either filled the parts with plaster or cast it from the outside then filled these moulds which could explain why the parts are bigger. Just because some of the areas are different doesn't mean they didn't use my armour as a base. They have changed some of the areas to look different and to cast doubt in peoples mind, just like it seems they have done to you. Using anyone elses armour (or whatever you are casting) as a base and changing a few areas is still recasting. The changes they have made are very minor and the RTA still screams out TM to me and everyone else who is familiar with my work. If you want to learn more about reasting then click one of the links above.

Cheers mate Some more from last night.

Wise words Rich! Just quickly looking at your suit I would advise you make your bicep touch the top of your forearm when your arms are by your side. It looks as though you have over trimmed the inner curve, probably because your biceps are too high and cause them to pinch. Having the biceps and forearms touching reduces the gap at the inner elbow which reduces pinching. I see this over trimming a lot and it is not needed. Once you have the arms strapped correctly you will see what I mean.

Looks good. I hope it comes to the UK.

Got a bit more done tonight.

My photos of sculpting were on my Yahoo site for all to see before it was closed down. I never got the opportunity to save them and what I did have was on my old computer which has long since died. I have shown how I sculpt my moulds in my mini TM suit thread and nowadays I just keep on tweaking them. To come into the game with anything new in this day and age you really should show proof of how you do things, especially when whatever it is looks identicle to something already available.

Yes. You don't need to heat any of this 1.5mm ABS to bend it. That is why it is suitable for the original strapping because of the flexable nature of this plastic. You can fold it double over itself and it won't crack, it's that good!

You're right. This glue is serious stuff and will melt your plastic if you are not careful. Any over-spill or drops onto your armour will leave a nasty scar. The good thing about this glue is it dries very quickly, it's white, and will warp the plastic just as it can be seen on the original suits

Are you trying to say RS cast me or I cast RS?

Stelmax 1985

It sure is mate, and flexible too

A few more photos of todays progress.

Thanks guys I will be using standard hand plates Karin. I haven't even thought about making the alternative style yet, and after the amount of time it took me finally casting the standard ones it could be a few years away before I try

You are correct. This is not a Luke replica suit but it will have a hero helmet.

This is not the Luke suit. That is coming next I will check on the exact size of the Newey sew on snaps and let you know. I am not 100% sure if these are the same snaps used on the shoulder straps but they look the same. Either way, they are vintage and that what counts on an authentic build

I am building up a screen accurate ANH hero suit at the moment and thought I would share some photos with you guys. I am hoping this build will inspire more people to have a go at making a screen accurate suit. The original strapping really feels awesome when you wear the suit and you get a feel for how it was for the actors on set. The kit is made from glossy 1.5mm ABS and I am using all vintage Newey fasteners, wire strapping brackets, split rivets and elastics just as they did for the movie suits. I am trimming the parts using a sharp craft knife and cleaning the edges using a knife blade. No sandpaper will be used on this kit as I am trying to get it just as was back in 1977. I will be making a multi layered canvas belt, a leather holster from my new template, and latex hand plates from my new mould. Here are some photos of what I have done so far and I will continue to post more as I progress

They have had a sale or interest thread since last year. There really is nothing more to discuss. The evidence has been put out there for all to see. I have already shown how RTA moulds match my moulds and I am willing to show more. Not much else I can do now is there?

As you can see, both sets of moulds are 99% identicle. Every curve and contour on both sets are the same. Only my return edge depth is different and RTA has altered the tops of the biceps slightly. If anyone needs to see any more proof then just ask SID to post up his moulds and I will post mine.