ForlornHope

there is door trim allright i guarentee you. You just cant see it as well because the pictures aernt as close. Remember that these are 3D models not props so you kind of have to take it with a grain of salt. The door trim was originally meant to keep the armor from cracking during stunts. Since lucasfilm has alot of ROTJ suits sitting around, the 3D modelers most likely used them as their referance. I can tell you and be sure that all the force unleashed stormtrooper models are the exactly same. From a time and work standpoint there would be no reason to make a different model for the incinerator trooper or stormtrooper commander if youve allready got one for the plain stormtroopers. All that needs to be done is a reskin or for those game illiterate among us, a repaint. So the armor is ROTJ, the helmet and hands are ANH for all force unleashed stormtroopers. Lucas worked closely with the force unleashed team and most likely had them incorporate all his favorite armor parts into one new standard of stormtrooper. Sorry purists, but this is the future of the trooper

Well all the force unleashed troopers have an inverted ab button but i think that goes along with the ROTJ armor option. Most of th armor CRL is copied from the Stormtrooper Commander since it is the same model in game just different accessories and markings.

Primer is primer, there really isnt a "right" primer. You should be good with what you got especially if its the same brand just follow the directions and the steps and you should be good to go.

Reference pictures

My proposed new CRL for the Incinerator Trooper 1) Comply with all TK ANH Hero CRL requiments --------------- MUST HAVE 2) Paint * Helmet, armor, and shoes must include all rank stripe details in Red that exactly match the videogame references (see visual references below). 3) Accessories *Rank pauldron in red color matching all rank striping details *MP40 style mag pouch in black leather with three long pounches and one small pouch attached to the left shoulder. SHOULD HAVE 4) Weapons *Flamethrower matching those in the videogame references. MAY HAVE 5) Armor can be battle-weathered (minor scuffs and dirt/grime) 6) In lieu of using ANH base armor, troopers may opt to use ROTJ armor. If this option is chosen, the armor must comply to ROTJ CRL Requirements with the following exceptions * ANH Stunt Helmet must be maintained. * Hand plates must be ANH trapezoid instead of snowtrooper. * Holster must be worn in the ANH style. 7) Pauldron can be folded over right shoulder in place of right shoulder bell.

Well the FX can only be modded for someone short to an extent. Im 5'10" and the suit is still a little big on me. I have seen shorter people in the FX and its generally not a very pretty sight If you can afford that deformed rubies suit that your not far away from a more accurate costume. Ill PM you some info.

At 5'4" your going to look like the FX is eating you alive. If I might give some sound advice.. While the FX may be cheaper, a star wars costume is an investment and i would recommend since you do know of or have access to better options, you should save your money and wait to get a more accurate and better fitting kit. You will be much happier in the long run since like me you will probably tire of the FX quickly and want a more accurate suit anyways. So if your the patient type, waiting and saving can be cheaper and lead to more joy down the road. Just my 2 cents but the final decision is yours of course.

Currently there isnt a CRL or EIB for TFU regular TK. If there were it would essentially be the same as the commander minus the blue markings. Perhaps its something to look into for those troopers who want to weather their armor but the weathering would have to be specific. Grime in the crevices, scratches and scuffs, maybe some paint chipping. After all it appears Lucas really intends to change the image of the stormtrooper to more battle hardened and i wouldnt doubt that the troopers in the upcoming live action series will not be the clean glossy TKs we remember from the old films.

From what it looks likes the force unleashed stormtroopers hav all of the qualities george lucas liked in his stormtroopers throughout the saga. There really isnt suppose to be a difference between the ANH, ESB and ROTJ stormtroopers, thats just what happened due to the nature of props and doing movies in the 70s and 80s over 3 year intervals. IF you do want to be perfectly anal they are essentially a mix of ANH and ROTJ. The average onlooker and even the most die hard fan will never notice the differences so i wouldnt worry about it too much. I was a die hard star wars fan most of my life and i never noticed alot of the armor differences and little things till i got into this hobby.

Yes it would be a bad referance but notice how i said they are still cool Well the 501st legion as a group is mostly FX helmets and hasbro blasters so it might be canon

ya what mike said too, its kind of something that takes practice and patience....alot of patience. I use a pvc pipe myself driven into the ground for helmet works really great . also watch out for stupid bugs that liek to fly into your new paint job which is why as soon as im done i run the thing into my garage to protect it from natures morons.

Ive painted several costumes in the past including TI, TB, and of course TK so ive run into pretty much every paint problem there is and know how to fix it. This effect can be attributed to several problems so ill try to go over them and give you some painting pointers Your getting the fuzzy effect because your coat is either too thin or its drying too quickly on the surface. When paint come out of a spray nozzle it comes out in little particles and when they hit the surface they stick and combine to make a solid coat kind of like spraying water ona a table if you spray too lightly youll just have a ton of little droplets but if you spray just enough youll havea nice solid puddle. That fuzzy or rough effect is all little paint particles dried to the surface. How can you fix this? Also i might add if drops are coming out of the nozzle then its defective or not clean. IF its a totally new can i would return it for a new one it shouldnt be doing that. When your done spraying turn the can upside down and spray till paint stops coming out which cleans out the nozzle and prevents that from happening the next time you paint. - first make sure you have a nice smooth sanded primer surface for a smooth finish but the scratched surface from sanding gives the paint something to stick to to prevent runnign or sticking - Make sure the surface your going to paint is totally clean i recommend wiping it with soap and warm water and drying it with a lint free towel. - make sure you spray in the right climate. Dont spray when its really hot or humid it can cause the paint to dry as soon as it hits the surface making a fuzzy effect. - When you spray make sure you areat least 8" away from the surface and level with it. You dont want to be too close because it wil lcoat too heavy and run and you dont want to be too far away because it will coat too light and again give you that fuzzy effect. - When you start spraying spray a thin quick "tacky" coat first over the piece. This coat will look rough which is fine it is meant to help the main coat stick and not run or drip. Immediatly after finishing the tacky coat and while the tacky coat is still wet, spray the main coat. With the main coat you want to spray until you get a solid wet looking surface but try not to spray in one area too long just enough to get that solid wet look or else it will drip.A good method is to spray in slow stroking motions back and forth working your way across the piece till it has one solid wet coat. - Once you have that solid wet coat take the piece somewhere safe to dry and make sure not to shake it or hit anything and ruin your paint job. Once its dry its should look solid and smooth if you followed the steps correctly. Let it sit for a day to cure and if you can a whole week is better. Hope that helps

Here are some screen caps posted by another member in the original CRL thread im reposting them to show more angles of the actual ingame character. The blue bubble is a personal shield generator the commanders use. Note the E-11 with unfolded stock and lack of holster. Whether or not the holster should be mandatory is up for debate.

I posted this under the CRL topics but i figured id put it here in its own topic. If you are painting your armor as a Force Unleashed trooper.. DO NOT USE THE ACTION FIGURES AS REFERANCE! The hasbro action figures as well as figures and busts released by sideshow collectibles while cool do not have proper pattern designs. Stripes and designs are placed or shaped wrong or are the wrong size. Remember these toys and collectibles were based off the game characters not the other way around so the in game characters are the guide for accuracy. details are allways lost in translation with these companies as we've learned from the long history of star wars toys and collectibles. Refer to the CRL posts for in game pictures of the characters or if you own a copy of the game you can input codes to play as the characters and get up close looks yourself. Press pause and goto input code Enter "TK421BLUE" for Stormtrooper Commander Enter "PHOENIX" for Incinerator Trooper

Ok let me make this clear. In Force Unleashed you play as Vaders Apprentice who is a dark jedi and thus uses a lightsaber. I entered a code to change my costume to a stormtrooper commander so that i could get close up pictures of the costume which is why he hasa lightsaber. Think of it as a jedi in stormtrooper commander disguise kind of like what luke and Han did. So in other words, lightsaber is a no no. As for weathering, It should be a requirement if you want to look legit. I dont think you want to look like a green officer or the troopers wont give you any respect

The commanders in the game use e-11s with the shoulder stock unfolded though i dont know if that would really matter requirement wise. Reason im being so anal about everything is im painting and weathing an AP suit not a cheap FX so i want to get it right and accurate but it will look awsome when its done

yes, if you use the code "TK421BLUE" you can play as one this allowed me to get better pictures of the suit without getting myself killed trying to take pics while getting shot at. Plus the commanders like to run away and use their personal shield generators making it tough to take pics.

yes i noticed the embossed edges on the chest and back plates as well whcih were probably taken from the actual armor itself since im sure lucasfilm still has alot of old RotJ armor sitting around which they use for promotional stuff. How they ended up with the ANH handplates and helmet i have no idea. as for the backward abplate, its like that on all the troopers in the game because they are all just one standard model. The modeler in charge may have been dyslexic. who knows.

Thats just a pic of the standard stormtrooper model from the game to show how they are weathered. Dont forget there are plain TKs in the game as well

Some pics i took from my PS3. please excuse the quality its hard to get good pictures off of a TV screen but i wanted to get some in game pics to show the actual armor from the game. Couple of points 1) The ab buttons covered by the paint remain black not blue 2) Excuse the backwards abb plate that was probably to moron modeler not paying attention 3) The Stripes size and placement on the in game character are different then the action figures, models, busts etc so please be cautious when using them as guides for your armor. 4) The paint lines appear sloppy like the trooper painted it quickly so dont be worried about straight cut lines 5) keep in mind the ingame trooper wears his bracers different then most 501st members do. He wears them with the slotted side facing his back and the smooth side facing forward unlike most troops which wear the slotted facing out to the side. This is important to note when painting them markings and their placement and on the arms none of the embossed armor seams have blue on them as one might first think.

This is a great pic displaying the weathering on the stormtroopers from the game ------

The name should be changed to simply "Stormtrooper Commander" In the game they are just called Stormtrooper Commanders and they appear everywhere, not just Felucia. In fact, i think there was only one on the Felucia mission.

No its definetly not skinned, the graphics and modeling in force unleashed for PS3 are too nice for them to do that. I think the pauldron is actually folded down over the shoulder. Im going to try to get some pics of the flame thrower which from looking at it today doesnt appear to attach to the trooper at all. It has a buttstock and handle like an m-16 or similar rifle and a long ribbed tube with some hoses running along the sides and a green/blue fuel cannister on the right side. The tip is larger then the body and the nozzle ends in a cone like an old ww2 flamer thrower unit and the lighter is positioned underneath the nozzle.

I took some pictures myself on my PS3 they allways come out blurry but i guess thtas what you get for taking pictures of a TV screen. Couple of notes - The markings on the action figure do not match the markings in the game so im assuming the game is what the CRL should follow because hasbro obviously can't see and they just make up crap. - There doesnt appear to be a right shoulder bell, the pauldron appears to be folded over the right shoulder in place of the armor - The ammo pouch on the shoulder has the three magazine pouches AS WELL AS the fourth small cleaning kit pouch ------------