dblcross

Looks like I got close to this look. I agree. All I did was dry brush some black acrylic paint on top of the milk chocolate brown.

That brown sure does look like milk chocolate! I'm hopefully some dry brush weathering will help dull that out.

I felt confident enough in my sanding to do some painting today. Even went as far as to paint the stock and getting my speaker from the toy blaster wired in and glued into place. I plan on cutting out a metal drywall repair patch the help protect the speaker. It just got painted and needs to dry, so I'll work on installing that tomorrow.

I used @ukswrath build on the Detonator where he lays out how to bend the clips for it. It worked wonders.

As they say, Proof is in the pudding. Before I can finish with the barrel prep work I need to get my Leds installed and more importantly, see if what I bought will work. I got these red fairy lights from Amazon that were 16 feet long. I'm a little apprehensive about how bright they will be because these leds require 3 AA batteries and my setup with this particular blaster the board needs 3 AAA's. I plan to fold the lights back and forth, the length of the barrel which will help with increasing the brightness of the lights. Hence the main reason I need to test this in the barrel. I must say, It worked great! https://i.imgur.com/Gw35aFl.mp4 So with this 3d kit There is an inner support pvc tube for the barrel that was going to hamper me from getting the folded LEDS down the length of the barrel so I pulled out the Dremel with a grinding disk to notch out the area where the LEDS would not pass though. It was heartbreaking! But never fear! Bondo paste is here! This can easily be fixed with a generous amount of Bondo paste sandpaper and needle files. I'll let this cure overnight and work on sanding and shaping tomorrow. On a side note, this kit is missing a barrel part but I'm not too concerned because this is going to be a FUN gun for trooping and I've already got a great E-11 I can use for upper lvl approval when I get around to it. Can you point out the part? ( Elton John's sanding picture is the best place to see it!) I couldn't until it was too late which is par for the course for me. I'm good at fixing mistakes is all I'm saying! Thanks for the idea of using a toy guy for the electronics @gmrhodes13

Thank you. There's only one problem... I glued the barrel together wrong in a haste. It's fixable.

I feel like Elton John, I'm still sanding!

I tip that helped me, you can use a toothpick to clean up the lines or the edges of the teeth. Works even better if you dip the toothpick in Mineral spirits before you "scratch" any mistakes off.

It definitely looks better. Bondo filler puddy is a lifesaver for repairing 3d print lines. I'm still not ready to paint. More sanding is needed but it's getting dark. I just wanted to highlight that you can fix almost any mistake with a little filler puddy.

I had to come up for air from sanding and do something else, so I decided to tackle the battery box. There's really only one good spot to put it, so I traced it out and got my Dremel Over all it fits pretty well. Next comes the Bondo! I don't want to put too much of it on at a time. I'll build it up slowly because the last thing I want to do is Bondo the cover to the box. Once I get it where I like, I'll sand everything around the box. My hand ! I had no idea I looked so old!

Something I haven't seen in any of the wire pictures is how it's connected. Are both ends twisted together, and then trimmed? Or are the ends soldered together ?

I'll be busy for the next several days sanding. I'll send out an S.O.S if I get in trouble.

Sucess! So I've seen what an aggressive drill bit or hole saw can do to a 3D-printed part. Because of that, I'll be using a diamond-coated Hole saw that I use to cut glass and ceramic tile. with a little water, It worked great. to These hole saws do not have a pilot bit to keep it steady so I built up layers of electrical tape to hold it steady. then off to the sink to slowly drill the stock, starting in reverse to help the bit make a groove it'll ride in. Next, I use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry out the center circle and the inner Lattace of the print. Once that was done I drilled a hole out to run the wire from the stock to the handle. Using my dremel and sanding bit to smooth the edges out and Voila! I'll cover it later after all of the prep work is done with a piece of black mesh that we all use for our TK buckets.

This should be helpful. It's a great guide about return edges https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48166-return-edges-101-ottk/?tab=comments#comment-670906

Ok! After talking it out with my son, the butt stock is the only option for the speaker that I had from the Grevious blaster. This is going to be a fun gun for trooping and not 100% accurate so why not! After seeing @gmrhodes13 scratch build, I feel confident enough that if a ruin the stock I can replicate it with wood so I'm going for it.

Working trigger My only issue now is speaker placement. Not sure how I'm going to handle this. https://i.imgur.com/tJuueLJ.mp4 With this 3D print, There are not a lot of options without a lot of hacking it up. At this point, I almost want to give up on the electronics. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Maybe a smaller speaker

First up, Cutting the trigger out. I was pleased to find out that the grip was hollow so I was able to bore it out with my Dremel. I plan on making a new trigger tomorrow out of a plastic piece I have lying around in my shed. It's Friday and and I'm already in "Dude" mode so I don't see any more progress until tomorrow

Both on my right arm.

Did you add on to the existing LED? I saw a video where a guy added a string of fairy lights instead of the one LED with no resistors to compensate for the added LEDs

Was pretty easy getting to the electronics. As a bonus, I have a new blaster frame to play with later.

My Gervious Blaster can in today. Over all, sounds loud enough. Can't wait to tear this sucker apart. http://i.imgur.com/N6eHKHT.mp4

Less Is more, I find when using it. It was a lifesaver for my E-11.

BTW, I'll take any advice you guys and gals want to throw my way on how to make this trigger movable. I'm thinking about using a dremel to cut the trigger out on the red line and hollow out an area in the blue for a spring and electrical contact. Possibly cover it with a piece of ABS and CA glue then use filler primer and XTC-3D to hide it. Thoughts?

Thanks to @justjoseph63 tip about XTC-3D with filler primer, hopefully, I won't have to do too much.