PatrickM

Yes, the BlastFX kit is really awesome! My son couldn’t stop testing it. And the scope display looks fantastic, especially in your beautiful hollow scope kit Brian. As soon as I saw movies of that combination I was sold! And on top of that Paul is a great guy to deal with, very helpful. He even sent me the latest BlastFX version with functional rotary switch, which wasn’t available yet when I placed my order. Really cool! Thanks for the heads up! Fortunately I already noticed and screwed the rear sight in the correct position, leaving just enough room for the end cap to move. Thanks guys! Looking forward to completing this project. If only I had more spare time...

In the meantime 2 more packages arrived, containing: - additional 3D printed parts, this time from Christopher Pearson - the BlastFX with miniscope electronics kit from TRamp So I guess you know what’s coming next... Pew pew! Here’s a picture of the incoming goods inspection (trying to be professional about this ): 20190114_190640 More details And here’s a picture of some recent progress using the 3D printed parts: 20190114_225019 It’s beginning to look like a blaster... 20190114_230059 Cheers!

Sometimes being an electrical engineer helps. The standard approach of using a resistor would also have worked, but then the current would drop if the battery runs empty. I wanted to ensure that the LED current remains at 20mA. Just let me know if you would like a detailed explanation. I really admire the mechanical skills of other forum members such as yourself! Expecting more parts to arrive within a few days...

LED there be light Today I received a package from Lighthouse LEDs with some Ultra Bright red LEDs and some 20mA LED drivers. To ensure sufficient voltage even when the battery voltage runs low, I added a step-up boost converter that I adjusted to 5V output. Here are some pictures of the first test: 20190111_230528 20190111_231145 Looks bright enough to me Cheers!

Thanks Brian! I will have another look in the local construction / hardware stores for some suitable aluminum or PVC. So far I found only thin strips and profiles up to 3mm. Unfortunately importing this kind of materials is very uneconomical due to the administration charge for the customs check. The 3D printed part is only 2.5 € and I expect that the knurling pattern can also be applied to it (similar to the PVC).

Yes I saw all the options you tried, impressive! Wasn’t it an option to put a layer of green stuff on the aluminum T-piece and press the knurling pattern into that? Or would it come off too easy then? Where did you get the thick PVC that you eventually used?

No problem at all Tino, I completely understand that you follow tons of build threads and can’t remember everybody’s individual progress! Thanks for the suggestions! I will first try if I can correct the warping of the T-piece after heating it. Then it might be worth salvaging with some reinforcements. Otherwise there are also plenty of other solutions, of which ordering a 3D printed one is the easiest (and cheap because I will most likely order some more 3D printed parts for the power cylinders, the rounded squarish block for the folding stock and the front sight block). Plenty of great examples in Brian’s build thread for scratch built T-pieces. I thought I had found some nice power cylinder end caps on 10.3mm diameter fuses, but unfortunately they appear to be impossible to remove without damaging them. Unless someone has a good idea for that? The ceramics are much harder than I expected; even the Dremel cutting disc hardly gets through. And then the bit in the cap still remains... 20190108_222820

Hi Tino, I already did some time ago: 20190108_202513 I think the 3mm axle (cut from a worn out Dremel bit) is still a bit too thick. There’s very little resin left around the drill holes, which I fear is not strong enough for a functional clip. Considering alternatives like 3D printed or scratch build.

That’s exactly why I first built some experience before starting with the scope. The main challenge for the drilling is to drill exactly perpendicular (without a column drill), with very little margin for deviations. But I managed and other than that it was a piece of cake. Everything fit perfectly! That sounds like Brian: improving even upon perfection! I’ve been reading your build thread yesterday Brian, amazing how many innovative mods were introduced by you! Really considering the dove tail front sight block now... And still doubting which way to go with the end cap clip, I’m worried that the DoopyDoo’s T-piece is too fragile to use... Thanks again for your awesome scope kit!!!

Tapered the width of the trigger guard from 12mm at the front to 10mm at the back, as seen in the reference picture of a real Sterling. 20190107_233152 Thanks again for pointing me to this detail that I overlooked master builders!

Yes, very much worth it. My build already benefited a lot from it! Thanks for the tip! I’m planning to use an airbrush for (most of) the painting. Would that also have problems reaching these places? I’ve already bought some Tamiya paint, but I just saw that Brian ran into issues with their flat black color. Any recommendations on paint type and method (spray can vs. airbrush)? Glad that I can also give something back to the community! Still reading up on other build threads, really amazed at the great ideas and skills out there...

Thanks guys! I realize now that I completely misunderstood the tapering remark... I thought that was about the middle of the guard being thicker than the sides. But I see now that at the front it’s a bit wider than at the back. Will definitely replicate that as well! I knew I could rely on the collective knowledge here! You have impeccable eyes for details.

Hi Brian, yes after building some experience with the “coarser” stuff I felt that I was finally ready to tackle the more delicate scope build. The most tricky part was drilling the holes. Apart from that it was pretty straightforward thanks to your excellent manual. I cut a few rubber rings to size to keep the small lense in position without gluing it. 20190102_113321 Still waiting for the electronics though, so the miniscope is not fitted yet. I will probably also add a red LED behind the small lense, like Marko did in his build. My DoopyDoo’s trigger guard also has a bit of tapering, but on the reference pictures from a real Sterling it appears to be flat. So I’m not sure which is more accurate. Maybe some of the other experts can comment on that? Thanks for your kind feedback! Best regards, Patrick

Hi Marko, did you already check this power cylinders thread? E11 power cylinders research thread Or Tino's Lucky#Eleven thread? Lucky#11 update 22 - the power cylinders Best regards, Patrick

For today’s task I needed a vice, so I first had to correct a little mishap from earlier this week. 20190105_131317 Here’s the new one, supposedly “heavy duty”. Let’s see... 20190105_150415 OK, now we’re ready for business again! Trigger guard As you may have guessed already from the above posts, today I made a more accurate trigger guard from a 2mm thick aluminum strip. Thanks Dan for supplying me with the template and reference picture! To ensure that I would bend the aluminum to the correct shape, I decided to print the reference picture to the correct size for the DoopyDoo’s grip. I cut out the trigger guard shape and drew it onto a piece of wood: 20190105_210333 I then used my jigsaw to cut out the shape, staying clear of the pencil line. 20190105_191808 I removed the last bits with a big file. Here’s the result: 20190105_190331 Bent the aluminum strip around the wooden shape. Since it would bend back a little, I had to take it off and manually bend a little bit further. After that it fits like a glove: 20190105_191213 Time to fit the new trigger guard to the grip: 20190105_210054 What do you think of the result, better than the DoopyDoo’s trigger guard? Cheers!

Hi surgeon Dan, I already figured that the 38mm disc was way too big and thick. But even with the smaller disc I'm impressed that you managed to do that freehand. So I totally agree with Jesse regarding your surgeon status! Really glad that my less nerve wrecking way to do it also worked... Yes I would like to have a copy of the reference photo to give that mod a try as well! I expect the hard part to be achieving the right shape while bending. I'm considering first creating the shape in wood and bending the aluminum strip around that, but maybe I should first give it a go without...

You're welcome, glad that I can also give something back to the community that has provided me with such a wealth of useful information!

Small update today (less time available now that the holidays are over...) Separating the T-tracks Spent this evening carving the sides of the T-tracks to create the illusion that these are separate parts, which I believe was first done by Dan. I hesitated to use a Dremel cutting disc on this delicate part of the tube, so I decided to use my engraving tool, a small file and 2 wax carving tools (in that order) instead: 20190105_000836 Fortunately I managed to avoid collateral damage and I’m quite pleased with the result: 20190105_001510 20190105_001609 20190105_003745 The more build threads I read, the more ideas I get for my own build. Thanks Tino for convincing me to start my own build thread; I really appreciate the feedback from experienced blaster builders! I also realized that I’m lucky that my electronics kit hasn’t arrived yet. Otherwise I may have rushed to the “pew pew” part, while now I’m taking my time with all the details that really make a difference. Unfortunately that was all that I had time for tonight... Cheers!

Standing on the shoulders of giants...

Thanks Dan, glad you like my build thread and I really appreciate your contributions to it! I just started studying yours, and I like the look of the “separated” T-tracks. Did you use any additional tools to stabilize the Dremel while doing that? I’m a bit worried of the cutting disc slipping and wreaking havoc with my tube. How did you finally manage to bend the aluminum trigger guard into shape? Best regards, Patrick

Happy New Year everyone! Time for the first update of 2019. So what’s new? New tools Received packages containing a set of wax carving tools (with nice knurling pattern; thanks Dan ) and 2mm stamps. 20181229_135813 Fixed loose end cap The end cap of my kit was very loose when mounted on the tube. Fixed this by gluing 3 ABS squares inside. Much better now! 20181230_183335 20190102_171449 Inner bolt details Recreated the inner bolt serial number using the 2mm stamps, and the extractor and plunger from some scrap metal/aluminum parts. In retrospect I probably made the layer of green stuff for the serial number too thick, resulting in a bit of “waviness”. Unfortunately this was the best I could achieve after numerous attempts... 20181230_215754 More folding stock details Recreated the figures on the sides of the folding stock that had nearly disappeared in the resin cast, using engraving/carving. 20190102_171343 More carving to create the illusion of separate parts. 20181230_220320 Scope Assembled the beautiful scope supplied by Bulldog Props Japan. Thanks Brian! 20181231_162453 Mounted the scope and Hengstler counter Mounted the scope and Hengstler counter to the rail. Thanks Tino and Brian for clarifying the correct position of the Hengstler counter! 20190102_133143 Different angle. Notice the knurling pattern on the front sight guard. Thanks Jesse! 20190102_133259 Cheers mates!

Hi Ken, depending on the price I’m also interested, if you’ll also be shipping to the Netherlands. Subscribed to this thread to follow when further details become available...

I will also be integrating a mini scope display, so the power will already be available. Therefore I expect the additional work to add the LED will be limited. But then again it wouldn't be the first time that I underestimate the amount of work required for a mod...

Thanks Brian! The 3D printed front muzzle will indeed be used to hold the clear acrylic tube with the LED strip. And having acces to both sides of the tube will definitely help to get everything in place. Best regards, Patrick

Hi Tino, thanks for explaining! I try to stick to the blaster reference as much as possible, so now I read the corresponding sections carefully before each step. Just wanted to make sure I would get the counter position right the first time. Getting the details right is quite addictive... Best regards, Patrick