PatrickM

What a pity there will not be another build, you are so talented at it! Can't wait to see what your E11 will look like when finished.

Thanks Marko! I see that you are doing a very similar build with DoopyDoo’s kit, 3D printed parts, electronics and Tino’s kit. Interesting read since you are further ahead. Might just copy that idea to add a red LED inside the scope, that looks cool! Best regards, Patrick

Thanks for all the feedback guys! Some more updates: Nose job I replaced the resin cast nose by a 3D printed one. In retrospect the resin cast nose wasn’t as bad as I had seen on some pictures, except for the 2 screws which were just shapeless blobs. But since I will replace those by the beautiful real ones from Tino’s completion kit that was no problem. The 3D printed nose will make installing the LEDs and the acrylic tube somewhat easier though, so I replaced it anyway. When enlarging the holes for the real screws to fit I noticed that the 3D printed material was less “Dremel-friendly” than the resin. 20181229_003208 Metal details on folding stock Installed the metal details from Tino’s completion kit on the folding stock. To be honest I found this to be harder than it looks. Anyway, here’s the result: 20181227_193658 Scope rail 2.0 Initially I got the position of the scope wrong, because I followed the measures from the template without knowing that the rear scope foot is supposed to be above the folding stock pivot. So I had to drill new holes and fill the old ones with green stuff. Never really liked that, and I still had some aluminum left, so I decided to make a new one. And this time I wanted to include the Hengstler Counter bracket in one piece. Many Bothans...ehm...Dremel cutting discs have died , but here are some pictures of the result: 20181228_225034 20181228_231150 20181228_231803 I have one question regarding the placement of the Hengstler Counter: according to the E11 blaster reference, the logo of the counter should be aligned with the front scope foot. Is it the left side or the center of the logo that must be aligned (I assume the center, is that correct)? That’s it again, thanks for reading!

Thanks Dan, that helped a lot! Unfortunately the Rolson set was sold out, but I found one from AmTech that looks identical. Keywords to search for: “wax carver tools”.

Hi Jesse, thanks for your encouraging feedback and suggestions for even more details! The end cap clip T-bar cast from the DoopyDoo’s kit already has a knurling pattern at the bottom, which wasn’t visible in the previous picture (I guess the focus was elsewhere ): 20181226_014059 I had already seen the knurling pattern on the front sight guard in the E11 blaster reference. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find a suitable tool yet to make this pattern. Do you have any suggestions where to obtain the tools shown in the reference (or what they are called so that I can Google them)?

Merry Christmas everyone! Time for another update. Still working on the details, which take more time than I thought (at least for a beginner like me). Lots of dremeling, sanding and repairing with green stuff... Here’s an overview of the recent progress: 20181225_215425 - placed M4 hex bolts in the folding stock pivot - relocated the clearing strip of the inner bolt (I know, the lower right side is still a bit high but unfortunately I noticed after gluing it) - lots more hollowing of the folding stock - finished the end cap, filled air bubles in the resin cast with green stuff - replaced the U-channel of the end cap clip by the aluminum one from Tino’s kit - hollowed the front sight guard, recreated the front sight block and inserted the grub screw from Tino’s kit, made the front sight from an M4 screw - replaced the resin hat nut in the grip by a real one Here’s a closer look at the tiny details on the end cap clip and the front sight: 20181225_215740 That’s it for now... Hope to make some more progress in between the family visits.

Testing the battery charger: 20181219_202759 Fully charged! 20181219_210436 Checking the battery voltage: 20181219_210333 Ready for BlastFX to arrive!!!

Thanks Brian! This site contains a huge amount of very useful information. That helps a lot for a newbie like me.

Yes, I should have mentioned that the end clip still needed to be sanded down to remove the excess green stuff. Good to see that I took the right approach with the magazine, thanks!

Hi Phil, the electronics will go into the Hengstler counter. I will put charging electronics behind the end cap, which would interfere with the spring of a real sterling. If you want to use the LED strip for the barrel light effect you would need to replace the inner barrel with a clear acrylic tube. For more info regarding the electronics search for “BlastFX” on Facebook. There’s also a BlastFX builders group (also on Facebook). Hope that helps, Patrick

Thanks! The end cap "slope" and the recess came from Tino's Lucky#Eleven build (see update #09). I also saw it on original sterling end cap pictures. Note that I initially overdid it and it still needs to be sanded down. Here it is with the excess removed: 20181216_214332

Got some more work done today. First I drilled new holes in the scope rail to correct the scope position: 20181216_142111 Then I hollowed the magazine and holder such that they can contain the battery for the electronics: 20181216_122901 20181216_122522 20181216_122312 Then I inserted small neodymium batteries to keep the magazine in the holder: 20181216_164008 Finally, some detail work on the end cap: 20181216_172720 20181216_172945 That’s it for today...

Not sure if I’m satisfied with “roughly where it should be”...

Then again, maybe not. Just put the scope feet above the drill holes and even though the rear hole is 16cm from the beginning of the rail, it’s not exactly above the folding stock pivot: 20181214_182252 So much for the template....

Hi Tino, thanks! Indeed, I went for the extra angle at the rear. In this picture I didn’t check the alignment of the scope (just put it on), but in the meantime I drilled the holes according to the template (the rear hole is 16cm from the front of the rail). So it should be OK

Good point! I used a breathing mask and safety glasses while dremeling, hope that’s sufficient protection... 20181214_185111

Not much time left tonight, so only a minor update. Removed the edge on the back side of the rotary selection switch such that it requires less gutting of the grip. Thanks for the tip T-jay! Before: 20181213_235748 After: 20181213_235245 This saves a few mm....

Hi all, after a few hints here and there I doubled my efforts to please the emperor and here it finally is: my first build thread. It will be based on the following components: - DoopyDoo's resin kit - the famous E11 completion kit from Tino (a.k.a. T-jay) - M38 1942 resin replica scope from Bulldog Props Japan (a.k.a. Brian) - BlastFX + mini scope electronics from TRamp (you can find him on Facebook) - 3D printed parts from Shadow Defence Systems on Shapeways Let's start with a picture of test fitting the scope rail, made from an aluminum strip: 20181202_191234 (Note that it still shows the original DoopyDoo's scope) This was to make sure that I didn't require the scope rail option for the completion kit. Speaking of which: 20181208_154125 And on the same day the scope kit arrived: Untitled 20181208_102248 First work on the resin kit included washing in hot soap water, and then on to some drilling and dremeling to install the mods from Tino's completion kit: 20181210_220647 (Note the green stuff in the first hole of the folded stock, which was a repair due to a drilling mishap ) Started easy with these mods: 20181209_191721 Then I went on to drill the additional row of holes in the main blaster pipe: 20181209_202712 And when the repair on the folded stock had dried I continued the drilling and gutting: 20181212_215904 Let it snow let it snow... 20181213_200426 Well, that's about it for now... Cheers!