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LTM

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by LTM

  1. Forearms were a challenge to trim. Got some great advice (thanks Sean) and tried to keep the cover strips at a 90 angle. I took off an inch on the inside pieces and 1/2 inch on the left outside and 1/8th inch on the right. Then I tapered by taking off 1/8th at the wrist on both sides, all while constantly checking fit at each cut. Will do any final tweaks, but good enough for now.

     

    QxZmzWk.jpg

    • Like 3
  2. I like the separate lenses and the different look to the inside of the helmet.

    Using water-weld putty and blind nuts to hold in the lens. Just grabbed some that I have from other projects.

     

    L1wJpXP.jpg

     

    First step is to rough up the plastic so the putty has positive contact. Create a roll with the putty and place around the opening. Then place the nuts in the putty and fill in around each post. Make sure you have the screw all the way in so that no putty fills up the opening (this would make the screw not go in all the way). Then back out each one and using a finger that has been wet with water, smooth out as much as you can. In this application, you do not want the putty at a 90 degree angle, you want it to go slightly away from the opening. This way the lens will push against the eye opening and not be pushed away by putty that is sitting too high. If that happens, you will have gaps.

    Don't worry about being totally smooth, the plasti-dip and the lens itself will be covering up the putty.

    CP0e64Z.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. 3 minutes ago, Hydraken said:


    That’s what I was thinking. Is it better to plasti-dip before doing the teeth as well? That’s the one thing I was unsure of with that. Right now with the teeth “in” it provides its own masking; afterwards I’d be sanding through the dip and the teeth. I think I need to look more into the pros and cons of the different lens mounting styles too....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Check out Sean's build, he used putty to plug the teeth holes. For my first WTF build, I used the paintable plasti-dip and had no issues with the holes cut out (just take your time). Remember to rough up the interior a little for helping with adhesion. 

    If you do individual lenses, use an epoxy putty around the eye holes and place some threaded posts (I did 4 per eye). Once dry you can plasti-dip it as well and everything looks molded in. 

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, Artshot said:

    From what i remember, you use the belt without the square indents and the covers are flat squares with the raised centre, button or whatever it's called.

     

    There are rubber handguards that are great and found in the sales threads, i have a pair glued to gloves for my TK.

     

    The shoulder straps are the ridged ones, which should be glued a specific way round, from what i recall the first bump on the front of the strap should be the slightly wider one, but you might want to double check that as there has been a bit of discussion concerning the shoulder bridges of late.

    Yes, the larger bump goes in front (I am building AM as well) but waiting on a question if you cut the plastic in front of the bump if going for centurion. Do you cut at the blue line or dont worry about it?

     

    8JJbESy.jpg

  5. Need some help/advice on cutting the forearm taper. I am building one of the new AM kits and just want to make sure I am looking at this the correct way before I make any cuts,

    I do have thin wrists, but the opening is large enough to slip my hand through.

    Do I keep the cuts (and the cover strips) at a 90 degree angle to the outside ridge?

    Below I am using a ruler to show where I think I should cut (equal distance of the opening at a 90 degree). Or should I cut off equal amounts on both sides?

     

    Wrist end

    N9jqOb5.jpg

     

    Elbow end

    hEDueqx.jpg

  6. Could use some help on the taper cuts. I do have thin wrists, but the opening is large enough to slip my hand through.

    Do I keep the cuts (and the cover strips) at a 90 degree angle to the outside ridge?

    Below I am using a ruler to show where I think I should cut (equal distance of the opening at a 90 degree). Or should I cut off equal amounts on both sides?

     

    Wrist end

    N9jqOb5.jpg

     

    Elbow end

    hEDueqx.jpg

     

  7. Sizing the torso, I have marked at the 2 inch point of removing from the kidney (nothing cut yet). Should I remove any more of the return to the front (I assume most of the top part is hidden by the chest piece)?

    How much room should be left in front and back? I currently at this mark can put fingers in the front and back at the same time, or if I push the piece to my chest I can fit my hand down the back.

    yOpCgpo.jpg

     

    CFL2NKF.jpg

    • Like 1
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