Erice3339

Understood, is there any paint that you see that I need to remove? Unlike correcting the teeth, doing so is pretty simple.

While I’m online, here are some more pictures of limb assemblies I have made and am waiting to dry to do the opposite side. If you see any incorrect alignments, confiurations, cuts, etc., please let me know!

So, unless I am misunderstanding something (and I probably am), I’m still not sure whether I need to correct the rounded edges for Centurion or not. I know about the common overspray issue that Gree has mentioned and have already corrected that. I’m working with toothpicks to gently scratch away any paint that invades the top, white part of the “mouth.” Here it is repainted after the filing (for now): Thanks for all of your feedback everyone! I really appreciate it. As was mentioned by another user, I couldn’t find anything in the CRL’s about the curved teeth edges.

I’ve been doing my best throughout the past day to file the curved edges down. It’s slow but steady progress. Still a relief to hear it might not be a disqualifer after all, though.

Sweet, thank you for the input! Funny how that was the first file set I looked at.

Thinking about using one of these precision files to angle the corners between the teeth. If you would, what do you two think? https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Steel-Precision-File-Set-6-Piece-707476H/100572556?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-100188490-_-100572556-_-N

Precisely what I was concerned with, although perhaps better articulated. Is it a disqualifier for Centurion?

Repainted the frown; the recent update to the ANOVOS kit left the teeth unpainted to avoid overspray and allow builders to paint themselves. Therefore, I painted in and over the teeth with Humbrol #5 and added the frown extensions on either side as seen in Uswrath’s build thread (helmet mods). I am unsure about the spaces in between the teeth. Tony’s (Uswrath) helmet does not seem to have any plastic in between the teeth (that I can see). Nonetheless, I painted these plastic “arches” with the same color. **If incorrect, please advise.** I could repaint with white gloss once this coat dries.

After 473 days, 23 hours, and 3 minutes, the BBB has arrived. Somehow, with all the time I’ve had to research, collect what I need, and even go to an armor party, I am not as nervous about starting as I thought I’d be (still have shaky hands though). Thanks to Joseph and Tony for advice and his build thread, respectively! And, of course, all the other numerous Legion and FISD members who have tolerated my many questions and offered great insight!

Perfect, thank you for that. Job well done on your part!

I used this flat side of the anvil for the female snaps that were said, by Tandy, to be compatible with this tool. When clamped down, except for the corners, the area between and around the female bases appear to make contact with the plastic piece pictured. I’m not sure how else to illustrate the issue— if there is one— without the armor aside from taking the pictures displayed thus far.

It has a concave side which I used for all the males and was sure to flip it over to use the reverse side for all the females. The reverse side of the anvil is flat. I purchased it, along with the setting tool and snaps, from Tandy Leather. It does look a bit different than yours. Here is a link to the anvil page: here. In the description, it’s said to be compatible with the Line 24 snaps I got. What, if anything, do you think I should do about the female snaps? Unfortunately, I have already set thirty. Since I do not have my armor yet, I cannot do a precise test, but I did try pressing one of the straps against an ABS yard sale I have. The fabric seemed to make contact with the surface of the sign (i.e. if I were to apply glue, I think it would fasten) and it seemed, for the most part, flat. There was a slight dip in the fabric between the snaps where the nylon made contact with the plastic surface. Let me know what you recommend. Thank you.

Perfect, thanks for your help and this thread. It’s a savior for beginners. Hopefully I’ll end up with a kit more accurate than the ones used in ANH themselves, ha! You’re to thank for that!

No worries! Thanks for the info. My local Joann’s has 2/16” and 4/16” white elastic, but no 3/16”. Do you think either of these will suffice or does it have to specifically be 3/16”? Both options at Joann’s supply more than enough for a dollar or two.

I was able to discern as much; however, I was asking whether I need to order a role of 3/16” white elastic or if ANOVOS supplies them with the kit. Thanks for the reply and awesome build thread.

Is the 3/16” white elastic used in section 8f for the retaining straps included with the ANOVOS kit? I did not see them mentioned on the supply page at the beginning of the thread. Please excuse me if I mistakenly overlooked it. Just need to know if I need to purchase those separately. Thank you!

That is a relief! I thought I might have to drop another $60 on metal buttons... Some of my female snaps are worse than others, I think. I’m hoping they’ll still do their job though. They still lock (actually kind of difficult to get apart too) and are flat on the underside for gluing. I’ll see if I can pick up the tools to follow your procedure in your original reply to minimize misaligned snaps. I appreciate you sharing that here. Thank you for your time and attention, Gil.

That’s the idea! Even then, I have to say, some days of browsing FISD had me thinking, “18 months isn’t enough to absorb this information. Anovos has got to give me more time before BBB day.” Like Joseph said here, I do want to treat it like a marathon instead of a race, but I will admit I’m eager to get started.

Thank you for the advice. Is there a way to insert an album with a single link or are we only able to add direct links one-by-one for each individual photo? Edit: For now, I just added each picture individually. Let me know if I am missing an easier/quicker way to do it.

So it sounds like, as long as the female snap straps still adhere to the armor, having them aligned on either side of said strap is a matter of aesthetic preference as long as the snaps are not bent (i.e. still flat), no? When you say “fail”, do you mean come loose/off of the armor? If so, how would misaligned snaps cause that if they are still flat with the strap thereby allowing the E6000 to adhere the strap to the equally flat surface of the armor? If the snaps still lock as well, would the female base not be hidden from view, so that one could no longer tell whether the two female pieces are aligned or not (i.e. since only one piece of the female snap is able to be seen by looking at the surface of the strap because the other, or the base, is glued to the armor on the underside of the strap)? I think I might be misunderstanding something. If it would help, the following image is an example of one of my straps that feature a misaligned female snap assembly:

Unlike many here, my first post is not of a big brown box unfortunately. While I got my kit for a decent price (I think), I have been tolerating a 18+ month wait time; however, despite my use of the word "tolerating", I have taken that time to research and prepare. In a way, I am grateful for the wait and don't mind it so much. I actually feel somewhat confident, but I am sure that will dissipate as soon as the box arrives. In the meantime, I started this thread early because I got a headstart on the strapping system I intend to use in my armor as publicized by justjoseph (shout-out to him; great asset on FISD and that's a gross understatement). Even so, I am now waiting on more snaps from Tandy which has caused my wallet to suffer (along with many... many other purchases). Without further adieu, here's what I have so far:

Hey Gil, Correct me if I am misunderstanding something here, but why does it matter if the female snaps are misaligned if the base of said snaps and nylon are getting glued to the armor? Wouldn't the misalignment then be hidden from view? Or is there an underlying structural issue with this? I read that you mentioned it was still "functional", but I am concerned that, on a very limited budget, I might end up needing to buy more snaps if the misalignment (which I did not think was that serious) turns out to be a bigger problem than I initially thought. Thank you in advance for your help. ~Eric

Thanks Colin. If it's not too much trouble, can you post or direct me to a picture of the inside of your helmet for reference when I install the foam? It'd be helpful to see your setup. If not, no worries. I appreciate the help you've already given me.

I see. I have this diagram saved. If I order two more 10 pcks from Tandy, I’ll have fifty pieces/snaps. While it’s not enough to fulfill this diagram completely, I think it’ll provide me enough to reinforce most areas. I’ll have to determine what areas I get skimp by with single connections. Thank you again, Joseph.

Hey Menschie, Good post; I am already experimenting with your settings. To confirm, I found this tape at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-3-4-in-x-10-ft-Black-Sponge-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-06593/100355591 Is this what you got or atleast viable for your dampening setup? Thanks! ~Eric Edit: Also, did you change the resonance values from default for highpass and lowpass settings?