Mworm1974

No glue but I accidentally drilled a small hole that I quickly filled without my wife noticing it or I would have been out the door with the armour.

Well here it is, all done. There are some final adjustments that I am currently making but I’m happy with the end result plus my wife gets the dinner table back. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- its been an interesting experience and I’m already looking a a new one (FOTK) but one thing at a time I have to sumit my photos to the garrison for initial approval. Matt

Hi everyone, well I finally finished the helmet, I have tried to match one of the screen helmets but any feedback would be appreciated. Im pretty chuffed at the results, it’s far from perfect but I like the fact that it looks a bit rough. i did freehand the paint job however I used the trooperbay stencils on the tube stripes. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton-

I started painting the helmet and it’s almost done, using screen reference photos, other EIB and Centurion applications I think I am on track. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- i have painted all all of the sections except the tube stripes that I will leave to the very last minute.

Moving on from my first helmet that still isn’t complete I learnt that the lens is best installed before you make the final cap and back connection. i had 2 packs of line 24 snaps sitting here so I thought I would try something to fit the lense. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- the main reason for the snaps is because I have one yellow and one grey lense from my fire fighting gear that I am going to adapt to be able to fit to the helmet if it’s too dark for the green lense. also my suit is done all I need is some white paint for the rivets

Moving on from my first helmet that still isn’t complete I learnt that the lens is best installed before you make the final cap and back connection. i had 2 packs of line 24 snaps sitting here so I thought I would try something to fit the lense. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- the main reason for the snaps is because I have one yellow and one grey lense from my fire fighting gear that I am going to adapt to be able to fit to the helmet if it’s too dark for the green lense. also my suit is done all I need is some white paint for the rivets

Just found the post well done, all the way to centurion matt

Hi Stephen, thanks for that, hey did you get EIB? matt

hi all, whilst waiting for for the shoulder covers to dry I thought that I would make a start on the helmet. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- ive read more than one thread about the ears but in this case I think I lucked out when trimming them and them came up ok.

Thanks Tony, I have been using your anovos build thread as a building guide plus a few centurion applications for reference. matt

Hi Stephen, quick question, did you reinforce the shoulder strap covers? Before glueing them into place. matt

Thanks Daniel and Tony. today I shortened the shoulder elastic straps as the back plate just sat too low, using e6000 was a life saver as the elastic pulled off of the amour whiteout causing any damage. I also have to take the snaps off and reposition them closer to the chest plate. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- I also attached the shoulder cover straps after some test fitting http://20171129-153221-1 by -matthewwormleaton- i think i used enough clamps

In between waiting for e6000 to dry I have made up a few additional costume extras. The DLT19 Is made of wood and plumbing parts as per happy troopers guide and the E11 is 3d printed for accuracy. The e11 is not 100% accurate but it’s the best that I can do as I am still learning about everything related to becoming a stormtrooper. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- it fits into the completed belt nicely

That’s great news Stephen/TK14655 I am glad to hear that all the hard work eventually pays off. im hoping that I’m not that far off myself. matt

I added the supports to the biceps yesterday http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton-

Here is the cod with the rivets and belt fitted. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- I used the RS supplied strapping for the left side hinge but I did double it over to give more strength to the join. http:// by -matthewwormleaton-

There’s been a lot of progress in the past few weeks but I have completed the shims and I think they look ok and like most I haven’t done this before. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- I have installed the left side rivets on both the cod and kidney the following photo shows the left side, the photo is deceiving as it makes the rivets look like they are not placed correctly, when lined up with the cod they all match? http:// by -matthewwormleaton-

The kit that I ordered from RS had the code, side and TD screws already installed, if anyone is attempting for accuracy I would suggest asking RS not to install any parts like these.

So I have endeavoured into the art of ABS paste and after reading crickets post more than once I have given it ago. i made up some ABS paste that has the consistency of tooth paste. The shim is pretty strong and I was happy with the joint, as you can see I do have some extra material on the shim to cut off when it’s complete. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- The below image is a bit blurry but you can see the first layer of ABS paste, I did complete several test pieces before working on the actual kidney. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- First round of 80 grit and 120 grit sanding ready for a second layer. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- second layer before any sanding http:// by -matthewwormleaton-

Taking the feedback on board about the TD screw position I made some changes that I hope look more consistent to the original TD http:// by -matthewwormleaton- I have painted the screw heads and filled in the old screw holes with the idea of weathering the TD slightly. The screw at the top of the TD in this photo looks slightly off but in person it resembles the TD in the reference photo.

Thanks for the heads up Paul, RS actually sent this one to me with the screws already installed, I might look at new brackets or even try to fill them with some liquid metal at work. I did think it looked odd as the ends of the bracket sit up a bit. I am going for ANH accuracy so I appreciate the feedback. matt

Looking very sharp there Stephen. matt

Well I started on the kidney shims, yes I do need to have extra ABS as I don’t quite fit the standard RS suit by 40-50mm. i was lucky to order some extra abs off RS when I was starting out looking at the various threads. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- the smaller piece will be the support piece behind the shim and the larger piece which needs to be cut down more will be the actual shim. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- i have cut the return edges off each end of the kidney piece ready for the support pieces, you can also see that I have gone for the original bracket system. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- both support pieces have have been glued in place using e6000 as I was not confident using ca glue.

Looks good Stephen, a bit more tweaking and it will look awesome matt

The thermal detonator caught my attention the other day so I thought I would put it together appeared easy to do. http://20171014-190242-1 by -matthewwormleaton- http://20171014-190246-2 by -matthewwormleaton- http://20171014-190252-3 by -matthewwormleaton-