tennantlim

Thanks Jordan. If I ever decide to do this full time, I will let you know! Hahaha

And it's finally done! Many thanks to Germain (aka The5thHorseman) for the fantastic files and valuable feedback through the build. Cheers!

As Germain rightly pointed out, the v20 inserts do not fit the v18 grip perfectly. Instead of printing the v20 grip, I sanded down the excess areas, filled in the gaps with epoxy putty, and even tried to replicate the lines with a blade. The result is not perfect, but I guess it's not noticeable unless you know where to scrutinize.

Thank you for the heads up. I should be receiving them anytime soon. In the event the fit discrepancy is significant, I may consider getting the v20 forward grip printed but will it fit the v18 hinge?

The back cap of the balloon light was smooth so it was quite tedious to turn it. Fixed it with some matt black tape that is often used by photographers on their cameras.

Finally received the balloon lights! I got them here http://ebay.to/2my0Ep3 These are very lightweight, cheap, and fit the flash tip almost perfectly. I attached one using putty to the flashlight tip and stuck the assembly to the folding stock tip with super glue. To turn the light on, you simply pull the folding stock tip out, twist the back cap of the balloon light clockwise until light comes one and slide the tip back in. Easy! When the batteries run out, just unscrew the back cap completely off, replace with three L736C/LR41 alkaline button cells, and screw the back cap on loosely. The prints for the top scope knob and forward grip covers should be arriving soon...

Unexciting update: The folding stock cover was in a pretty bad shape and required a drastic overhaul. I traced the outline onto a styrene sheet, cut it out and stuck it onto the existing 3D print with epoxy. The edges were then cleaned up by filling in gaps with epoxy putty and sanded flat so it looks like one seamless piece. The cover was then primered, wet sanded and spray painted with 2 light coats of gloss white.

Thanks Germain. I am waiting for the ballon light for the front flashlight, and for my friend to print the missing parts; scope knob x 1 and the forward grip covers. His printer is down and he's trying to fix it or he will get someone to print it. In the meantime I have decided to work on the folding stock cover. Updates soon!

A red acrylic sheet was cut to size and affixed on the Hengstler counter cover and magazine.

Thanks Vince. I read your armor build thread and you definitely have the skills to do a better job than me. Just have to put in the time. I used Ace spray paint and primer for most of it and Dupli-Color for the chrome parts with minimum 12 hours between light coats.

Nothing to see here...

Yeah I know it's over engineered, but I thought it would be a pragmatic feature to have. In fact I have kept the construction for the most part very simple, not counting the sanding of course. Much appreciated Paul!

Ok don't laugh. Well if you do, I can't stop you. I may have overdone this and I am sure there are easier ways to attach a Hengstler counter cover. Anyway... A magnet is stuck to the cover with epoxy resin and I constructed a frame around a socket screw with Lego parts. The frame allows the screw to slide vertically when the magnet is near. This is attached to the top left corner of the Hengstler interior with epoxy putty. When the magnet on the cover attracts the screw upwards to make contact, the cover is free to swivel outwards, allowing access to the battery when it is time to change it. This mechanism also holds the cover in place in case the screw fails, and also ensures the cover stays on so it will not get lost if a change of battery is conducted in the field. Now I just need that damn red acrylic panel!

Thanks Germain. Unfortunately, I cannot go further now without the missing components. In the meantime I just have to work on the attachment systems for the Hengstler counter cover and magazine.

My buddy and I are going to have custody battles over her.

For the magazine light switch, a hole was made to accommodate the base of the switch. After a quick paint work, the switch was wedged through the hole from inside the magazine with a bit of glue to hold it in place. Fixed the bulb in place with double sided foam tape so it sits directly behind the slits of the cover.

Thanks! Great tip on the hengstler cover. I will try something that will not alter the exterior any more than the switch.

Awesome work so far! I'm following your progress and I look forward to seeing the finished build.

Next, I worked on the lights in the Hengstler counter. First I make a hole on the underside big enough for the push button to fit through. Since it's a push button, the switch needs to be attached firmly against the inner side of the counter. There is very little surface area to apply any form of adhesive, so I glued on a Lego piece to add surface area. To further increase the counter force from pushing the button, I wedged some glue pad between the battery holder and the rear of the switch. When the light is turned on, the button almost flushes with the counter, and this is perfect since the light will certainly be left on during trooping. Now I just need the red acrylic sheet to arrive to complete. Now on to the magazine...

Thank you so much Paul. Most ambitious project I've undertaken and I only hope the final outcome will be acceptable to my buddy.

Small updates for today. Finished and installed flash tip. Slides easily and the friction holds the tip in so it will not slide out when the blaster is pointed downwards. Waiting for ballon light to arrive. I rectified the mangled front flash protector by attaching it to the barrel with the 2-part epoxy putty. Before it cured, I smoothed out the joint with a wet cotton bud and now it looks like it was welded on.

Took my time to work on the tactical stock components; - grind off the faux torx screw caps - general sanding - filed the vents to get them as smooth as possible - 2 coats of primer with 24 hours curing time in between - paint - assemble and added real torx screws

I really appreciate you taking the time to advise me. Indeed I have noticed the external switches in many reference photos but I was hoping to keep the surfaces intact. I shall consult with the owner of this blaster and see what he prefers. The top part of the muzzle was simply wedged lightly in the groove for the photo. I will insert it completely when I assemble it with the barrel. Sharp eyes! The scope is being fixed now. Had to correct the strut placements. Thank you for pointing it out. I see what you're saying about the tactical stock locking system. Will look into it and consider other options as well.

Another piece of the puzzle to solve is the front flash protector. The one that came with my friend's kit is pretty badly mangled, as you can see. So instead of waiting for a replacement, that I have no idea how long will take, I am going to attempt to repair it with epoxy putty and attach it seamlessly to the barrel as best as I know how. My concern is it may get banged up during transport and when it's holstered against the thigh.

Believe me, this is a daunting project especially since the goal is to make it look shiny new and like it just came off the production line. My only advice is plan properly and don't rush it. Good luck with your build!